Tag Archives: TTE

The Great Wall of China

Rookie Travel Mistakes to Avoid in Asia

Rookie travel mistakes happen more often than you think. In the excitement of preparing for a long-dreamed about escape or a last-minute getaway, even the savviest of globetrotters can forget the basics. A common one is not thinking about the best time of year (or time of week) to experience a destination; another is failing to allot enough time to visit each point on your itinerary. To be sure you don’t fall into any traps (tourist or otherwise) during your own adventures, we asked our Trusted Travel Experts to weigh in on the most important things to know—and the most common rookie mistakes to avoid—when traveling to China, Japan, Vietnam, and other parts of Asia.

What would you add? Leave your suggestions in the comments below.

Bali

Expecting idyllic white-sand beaches. Bali’s beaches are mostly too rough for swimming (but good for surfing), and the quieter ones have little or no sand. I listen carefully to what every client is looking for in a beach—and tell them if they’re better off in the Caribbean. —Diane Embree, Trusted Travel Expert for Bali

Read Diane’s Insider’s Guide to Bali

Bhutan

Paro, Bhutan

Paro, Bhutan. Photo courtesy Antonia Neubauer.

Not knowing that there is only one east-west road in the entire country, meaning that every tourist (and there are many, despite what anyone else says) who is not trekking is driving back and forth along that same road. —Antonia Neubauer, Trusted Travel Expert for Bhutan and Nepal

Read Antonia’s Insider’s Guide to Bhutan

Cambodia

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Photo courtesy Molly Fergu

One big rookie mistake that travelers make is assuming you’ll ride through the jungle on an elephant and “discover” Angkor Wat! It’s best to be realistic that this is a major international destination and plan accordingly. You can avoid the crowds and have a more special experience if you get an early start and begin at the back entrance to Angkor Wat, or visit lesser-known temples. If you head in unprepared, you’ll be in the middle of packs of tourists and you won’t really get to see anything. —Andrea Ross, Trusted Travel Expert for Southeast Asia

Read Andrea’s Insider’s Guides to Angkor Wat and Cambodia

China

Dragonback Rice Terraces, Guangxi, China

Dragonback rice terraces, Guangxi Province. Photo courtesy Lian Lodge.

Seeing only the famous sites, such as the Great Wall and the Terra-cotta Warriors. China has so much to offer, and major cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, and Xi’an are only a slice of the entire country—and an overdeveloped, crowded, and sprawling one at that. I urge you to spend from five days to a week focusing on a lesser-known province, such as Yunnan, Sichuan, Guizhou, or Guangxi. Visit some smaller villages, enjoy the beauty of terraced rice fields, and get away from the most popular places and the wonderful diversity of the culture will come to life. —Mei Zhang, Trusted Travel Expert for China

Read Mei’s Insider’s Guides to China’s Big Cities and Small Villages, Yunnan Province, and Beijing

Cruising in Asia

Sunset over Bagan, Myanmar.

Sunset over Bagan, Myanmar. Photo courtesy the Cruise Professionals.

A rookie mistake is planning to board the ship the same day you fly into port. You’ve probably booked an Asia cruise because you want to pack a lot of destinations into a single trip—so why waste your time and money spending the first few days of your itinerary jet-lagged? Even if the ship spends the first night in its departure port, arrive a few days early so that you can properly acclimate (and not risk missing the ship due to airline or weather delays; Hong Kong in particular can get fogged in). —Mary Jean Tully, Trusted Travel Expert for Cruises

Read Mary Jean’s Insider’s Guide to Asia Cruises

India: Agra

Taj Mahal Reflection, Agra, India

Taj Mahal Reflection, Agra, India. Courtesy Sanjay Saxena

A rookie mistake is forgetting to buy tickets to the Taj Mahal in advance. Tickets are not sold at the entrance: The ticket office is actually located in the East Gate parking lot about a mile from the monument entrance. Tickets to the Taj may also be purchased at any of the other monuments in Agra—but be sure that the date stamp is for the day that you will be visiting or is an open-ended ticket. —Sanjay Saxena, Trusted Travel Expert for India

Read Sanjay’s Insider’s Guides to Delhi and Agra and the Taj Mahal

India: Rajasthan

Amanbagh, India

Amanbagh, India. Photo courtesy Amanbagh

Travelers to India—and especially to Rajasthan—love to shop for fine jewelry because the prices are so good, but you need to go somewhere reputable, otherwise you may be sold glass instead of diamonds. (One of our favorite shops is the Gem Palace in Jaipur.) —Bertie and Victoria Dyer, Trusted Travel Experts for India

Read Bertie and Victoria’s Insider’s Guide to Rajasthan

Nepal

Monk and flowers, Nepal.

Monk and Flowers, Nepal. Photo Courtesy Toni Neubauer

Not paying attention to altitude gain when trekking! People like to believe they are immortal and want to rush up mountains, but they need to study the rules for altitude acclimatization and follow them carefully. Altitude sickness is no joke. —Antonia Neubauer, Trusted Travel Expert for Nepal and Bhutan

Read Antonia’s Insider’s Guide to Nepal

Sri Lanka

Sunset in Tangalle

Sunset on a beach in Tangalle.

Sri Lanka looks small on a map, but it can take hours to get from place to place, and there are definite no-nos. For instance, don’t try to travel from Kandy to Yala National Park in one day, or from the Cultural Triangle to the beaches of Tangalle, or from Jaffna to Colombo. On the map (and on Google Maps), distances and approximate travel times are misleading. Sri Lanka offers great diversity and looks like you can tick all the boxes in one week—you can’t. If you want to speed things up a little, try flying on certain segments. Two local operators offer scheduled flights around the country: Cinnamon Air and Helitours. —Miguel Cunat, Trusted Travel Expert for Sri Lanka

Read Miguel’s Insider’s Guide to Sri Lanka

Thailand

Grand Palace, Bangkok. Photo by C Kennerly.

Grand Palace, Bangkok. Photo by C Kennerly.

Visiting Bangkok first. This sprawling metropolis of some 18 million people can be overwhelming, so I don’t recommend it for your first encounter with Thailand. It’s much more enjoyable to recover from jet lag someplace relaxing and traditionally Thai, such as Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, or Sukhothai. By traveling upcountry (or to the beach) first, you’ll experience traditional Thai culture, have time to acclimate to the time zone, and appreciate Bangkok much more when you visit it at the end of your trip. —Sandy Ferguson, Trusted Travel Expert for Southeast Asia

Read Sandy’s Insider’s Guides to Bangkok, Southeast Asia, and Thailand

Uzbekistan and The Silk Road

Tilla Kori Medreseh, Samarkand

Tilla Kori Medreseh in Samarkand. Photo courtesy Zulya Rajabova.

Some travelers opt to fly from one Silk Road city to another, and there is a high-speed train from Tashkent to Samarkand, but travel by car is most rewarding. There are many cultural, architectural, and archaeological treasures to find outside the main cities, as well as rural villages to visit, the ancient towns of Jizzakh Province, local bazaars, and amazing photo opportunities. —Zulya Rajabova, Trusted Travel Expert for Uzbekistan and the Silk Road

Read Zulya’s Insider’s Guide to Uzbekistan

 

Do you have tips on avoiding rookie mistakes? Share your advice in the comments.

Capri, Amalfi Coast, Italy

How to Tip in Europe. And How Not to.

Forget the stress of planning flights, deciding what to pack, and figuring out how to get around…one of the aspects of travel that causes people the most anxiety is tipping. When should you do it? When shouldn’t you? Who expects it? Who doesn’t? And always, how much?

We went straight to our Trusted Travel Experts—handpicked by Wendy as some of the top travel specialists around—to find out the customary tipping rules all over Europe. From Amsterdam to Russia (with stops in France, Italy, Greece and more), we’ve listed the do’s and don’ts of tipping throughout Europe.

Amsterdam

bicycle at Amsterdam Canal

If you have enough time to leave the airport, explore Amsterdam’s canals. Photo: Context Travel

The Dutch are not big tippers, and a service charge is normally included, but good service should be rewarded: A small sum for a drink or 10 to 15 percent of the price of a meal. Rather than leaving the tip at your table as you depart, hand the money to your server. Just tell him or her how much you would like to pay in total when they collect the bill.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guide to Amsterdam and use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Austria

Many restaurants now have a tip line on the invoice. The waitstaff at several restaurants have told me that they actually do get the tips when paid via credit card. Generally, 10 percent is fine.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guide to Austria including Vienna and the Danubeand use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Czech Republic

Make sure to tip in cash; any currency works. I generally give about 10 percent at restaurants.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guide to the Czech Republicand use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Croatia

red roofs by the sea in Split, Croatia

Split, Croatia. Photo: Wendy Perrin

Croatians are traditionally not a “tipping nation,“ but this attitude is gradually changing and people like waiters, bartenders, and taxi drivers are happy to get tips. 10 percent of the total bill should be perfectly fine. Tipping does not need to be in the local currency; US dollars and euro are widely accepted and appreciated. If you wish to tip, make sure you do so in cash, even when paying by credit card. Otherwise the tip will end up in the pocket of the business owner, and not the person who provided the service.

 Ask Wendy to find the right Trusted Travel Expert to plan your best possible trip.

England

London, England skyline

London, England. Photo: Pawel Libera/London and Partners – Visit London

In London the usual tip is 10 percent, but check the bill in restaurants, as some are inclined to include a service charge and you are not obliged to essentially tip twice. 

Learn more in our Insider’s Guide to London, and use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

France

Sénanque Abbey in Provence

Sénanque Abbey in Provence

In French restaurants the tip is always included (usually 15 percent). However, as waiters will (rather craftily) say, “The service is included but not the tip,” and many establishments do use the official tip as extra profit. So waiters do still need tips, and in France the amount is generally determined by intuition, rather than as a fixed percentage of the bill. Leaving 10 euros will be a gesture of satisfaction, 20 euros (and up) a gesture of generosity and complete satisfaction. In particularly fine, expensive restaurants, double those figures. Note: If you put the tip on your credit card, the waiter probably won’t receive it.

 Ask Wendy to find the right Trusted Travel Expert to plan your best possible trip.

Greece

Tipping in Greece is sometimes expected, but it’s never required. It’s seen as a gesture of thanks for prompt and attentive service, and you are the judge of whether it’s warranted, but there are a few guidelines to keep in mind. When you take a taxi, it is usually enough to round up to the next euro. At upscale restaurants, a tip of 10 to 15 percent is standard. At tavernas, it’s customary to leave 2 euros on the table; at a café, from 50 cents to 2 euros. In hotels, luggage handlers usually get 5 euros, and on island hotels, guests typically leave 10 euros per day for maids, servers, and other hotel staff at the end of their stay. Alternatively, for a stay of three or four days, guests might leave 50 euros for all hotel staff to share, while tipping porters separately.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guides to Athens, Mykonos, and Santorini, and Ask Wendy to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Hungary

Make sure to tip in cash here (any currency works). About 10 percent for restaurants is just fine.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guide to the Czech Republicand use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Ireland

Rock of Cashel castle on a hill in Ireland

Rock of Cashel, Ireland. Photo: Shutterstock

Tips are appreciated in Ireland, but the rules are slightly different. It’s not necessary to tip when bags are brought to your room, for instance, and in restaurants we suggest 10 percent. For bartenders, we suggest leaving a bit by rounding up the tab. For transfers and guide services, ten to fifteen percent is acceptable. You can also leave a euro or two for housekeeping.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guide to Killarney and County Kerry, Ireland and use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Italy (Amalfi Coast and Lakes Region)

Positano on the Amalfi Coast, Italy

Positano on the Amalfi Coast, Italy. Photo: Shutterstock

Tipping is appreciated but not at all expected. In restaurants and for taxi rides 10 percent is sufficient. If the person serving you is also the owner of the business, they would never expect a tip.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guides to the Amalfi Coast and the Lakes Region, and use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Italy

Italians don’t tip in restaurants. Yes, we know you’ve read that there is a standard 10 percent. Or that the bill is rounded up. Or that you are expected to leave a little something. This is bunk. Italians don’t tip in restaurants. (Italian staff are paid a living wage and/or are members of the owner’s family.) You can tip, if you really want to. Or if you feel the service was extraordinary. Or if you simply don’t trust us. Go ahead. But Italians don’t.

Learn more in our Insider Guides to Florence, Venice, Tuscany, and Umbria, and use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Norway

The Reinefjord in Lofoten. Photo: Andrea Giubelli - Visitnorway.com

The Reinefjord in Lofoten. Photo: Andrea Giubelli – Visitnorway.com

Tipping is not mandatory or common in Norway, but if you give your private guide or driver the equivalent of $100 after a full day, he will be very happy! But nobody gets grumpy if you do not tip.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guide to Norway, and use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Russia

Red Square at night, Moscow, Russia

Red Square at night, Moscow. Photo: Dan Weisberg Photography

Moscow and St. Petersburg are not tipping cities, so tip no more than 10 percent at restaurants and always in cash. If you leave the tip on your credit card slip, your server is unlikely to get it.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guides to Moscow and St. Petersburg, and use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Scotland

green lanscape of Isle of Skye Scotland

Isle of Skye, Scotland. Photo: Shutterstock

You don’t need to tip doormen or bellmen, but you should tip drivers, guides, and caddies 10 to 15 percent. It’s not a rule, but I always leave change for barmen and housekeeping. At restaurants, tip 10 percent.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guide to Scotland, and use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

Turkey

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

A 10 percent tip is customary in restaurants, and it should be offered in cash only, as servers prefer not to add it to the check. Also: locals do not tip taxi drivers.

Learn more in our Insider’s Guides to Istanbul and Cappadocia, and use Wendy’s trip request form to be marked as a VIP and get the best possible trip.

 

Do you have your own tipping experiences to add? Share your advice in the comments.

Villa di Torno, Lake Como

Yes, It’s Possible: A Villa Vacation That Keeps Every Member of the Family Happy

You already know the benefits of choosing a rental villa over a hotel for your family vacation: More space, more privacy, more local flavor, and—if your group is large enough to fill every room in the house—significant savings. What you might not know though, is just how much the property itself—its layout, location, amenities—will affect the group dynamic. So will decisions ranging from which activities you pre-plan to which type of car you rent to whether the fridge is already stocked when you arrive on a Sunday and the grocery stores are closed. As someone who has rented homes for multiple generations of my own family in locales from Tuscany to Jamaica, I am here to tell you that renting through an expert who will level with you about the pros and cons of the neighborhoods and homes at your destination is a priceless advantage.

Mara Solomon, my Trusted Travel Expert for large Italian villas (read her Insider’s Guide to Italian Villa Vacations) does even more than that. Part magician, part psychologist, she can predict potential conflicts within your group…and make them disappear via smart planning. Mara, who specializes in properties that have four or more bedrooms, has compiled 11 tips for a successful villa vacation, and they’re a must-read as you start to plan your summer villa trip:

1. Manage everyone’s expectations. Travel might be the ultimate test of relationships (besides politics according to my mother). We all do it differently and spend time and money according to our own priorities. Manage everyone’s expectations for time together and time apart, for planned activities versus kicking back, very early on. Use Skype or a similar tool to bring the relevant decision-makers together, hash out the basic structure of the holiday and get everyone on the same playing field. A well-structured villa vacation ensures an elder is not over-taxed, a sporting parent gets the exercise they seek, and the kids are well engaged.

2. Divvy up the work and establish authority. Group travel—whether an extended family or group of long-standing friends (with or without children)—does take planning and it is essential for each group to decide who is making the decisions. Then make sure everyone gets behind them and sticks to the agreed upon plan. It’s also important to decide how the planning work is being shared. One person, maybe two if they work well together, is best for spearheading the choice of villa, but there are other tasks. The wine enthusiast can be put in charge of provisioning wine for the house and selecting wineries to visit, for instance.

3. Determine what really matters to your group. If your first conversations are less focused and people are less than candid, that is ok. Listen closely and you will have the keys to success. One person may need nothing so much as a fabulous bathroom. Be sure you have a plan for mornings out walking or taking coffee up to your own balcony or terrace if you need alone time. Maybe your nuclear family runs at a different speed and needs an excursion without the entourage of in-laws and cousins. Americans are used to enjoying their freedom. Be sure to rent enough cars so someone can make a quick get-away if tension mounts.

4. Make the most of the intelligence and insight of the people who have seen the house and know the area. Villa travel is, by definition, different from any other form of travel. The point is to have space as well as time and experiences together. The house matters greatly, even if you are a get-up-and-go group. Sooner or later your paths will return you home. Get this figured out in the early stages. How? Talk to the person or people who have been there and know the house. The accumulated wisdom of their experience can mean you avoid any nasty surprises. We greatly appreciate a chance to share our knowledge and our talents with our clients. This is what we are paid to do and besides the villas themselves, it is what our clients most appreciate.

5. Build into the structure of your holiday as much service as you can afford. You may think you don’t want a full-time cook but we can say from 20 years travel experience cooking services in the house are the amenity our guests appreciate the most and derive the most value. Inevitably people cancel restaurant meals and stay home because the food is so good. And enjoying it all in the privacy of your own Villa in black tie or pajamas (as you prefer) is a priceless gift to share with people you love. Meal organizing, shopping, preparation and clean up is an every-day responsibility for most of us. It becomes a true vacation when you can be at home without the everyday responsibilities.

6. Plan organized group-wide events or activities. Creating joy-filled moments elevates a get-together to the status of life-long shared memory. An excursion of interest to everyone, a special meal with a well-chosen menu or some fun and easy activity local to your destination generates enthusiasm and excitement. But don’t overdo the planning. In Italy, as with so many destinations, the most transcendent moments are often unplanned, so you want to leave room for those as well.

7. Consider seriously the layout and amenities of the property you are selecting. Quality time for relaxing and playing together in various combinations is essential for successful villa travel. The point is to come together in different times and different ways. Where will you gather for apperitivi before dinner? Are there enough chairs? A friendly bocce competition makes great fun all week long and you can end with a tournament complete with prizes.

8. Staying in one place longer makes for a richer, more rewarding experience. One week is most always not quite enough. Ten days is much better but two weeks is really recommended. I know, you may be thinking people will be bored, but I encourage you to give it consideration. A two-week stay means you sink in and get to know the place, find yourself unwinding in ways you may have forgotten. Your group of teenage boys will be transforming a mound of potatoes into that night’s gnocchi. Maybe you find yourself deep in a long conversation that is years overdue. You will have more flexibility in group configuration and size, as not everyone has to be together the whole time. And a well-located villa will have more to do than you think. We hear this quite often when our guests return: “I wish I pushed for that second week in the villa…”

9. It is Your Vacation too. We do not believe in ‘musts’ and ‘shoulds’. A visit to the Leaning Tower of Pisa could be a highlight or the worst day of the holiday. It depends. It depends both on things you control and those you don’t. Make sure you work with people who are listening closely to what matters to you and are facilitating that experience for you. If you are working with someone who really understands your group, the necessary insights, contacts and arrangements can be deployed in a way that meets your needs. And, that travel consultant will have you prepared for the variables beyond your control that are an essential part of the villa experience. Yes, the Blue Grotto is special, but we think having your own boat and exploring the other relatively deserted grottos around Capri is much more rewarding. And if you want to skip Capri altogether, that is fine too.

10. Success is in the details. Location, location, location counts when planning villa travel. With villa travel you might not know what questions to ask, so we suggest you work with people who know the house, setting and local area well enough to tell you what you need to consider. The Amalfi Coast is not well suited to those who cannot manage steps. Do you need running room for rambunctious children with soccer balls? Do you have shoppers or fitness buffs or serious scholars? What about food allergies? Can the staff find gluten-free pasta and almond milk easily if needed?

11. Plan on enjoying yourselves and having fun together. We invite our guests to plan on enjoying themselves and doing things differently. Use your phone or tablet for photos, not for email with the office. Eat gelato at least once every day. Have fun getting lost –you will be rewarded with at least a great story to share over apperitivi back at the house. You are sure to encounter an awe-inspiring moment, great memento or new friend for life. Remember what it is to have a day to fill as you like, without an agenda. This is what we strive for at Homebase Abroad–a well-structured trip whose cadence best matches the needs and preferences of your family and friends. We promise you will be rewarded with an exceptional experience. Maybe even the best vacation of your life.

Thanks, Mara, for letting me share your tips with WendyPerrin.com travelers!

 

Be a smarter traveler: Follow Wendy Perrin on Facebook and Twitter @wendyperrin, and sign up for her weekly newsletter to stay in the know.

forbidden city, china

Is 2015 the Year to Travel to China?

Is this the year to finally take that trip to China? One of the big findings from TripAdvisor’s 2015 TripBarometer study, the world’s largest traveler and accommodation survey, is that China will see the greatest reductions in hotel prices this year—a year when most countries will be hiking their prices. Half of all properties worldwide—and 59% of U.S. hotels—plan to up their room rates this year (with the biggest increases expected in South Africa, Austria, and Brazil).

There’s value for your dollar in China, for sure, but only if you’re careful. As someone who has spent six weeks of her life road-testing China every which way, I am here to tell you that China is one of those countries where, if you want to avoid unexpected hassles that eat up significant time and money, you’re better off having a China travel specialist orchestrate and book your itinerary. Factors that can foil the best-laid plans include:

* Places that were charming a year or two ago have been overbuilt and overrun with domestic Chinese tourists.

* Things in China change overnight, which means it’s tough to get reliable logistical information or accurate opinions as to which places are still worth seeing and which have been spoiled.

* The ingrained tourism infrastructure inflicts a mass-market agenda that will turn off sophisticated travelers. Without help from the right sources, you can easily get trapped at mediocre sights, with detours for forced shopping, tasteless meals at tourist restaurants, and layers of middlemen extracting cash from you at every turn.

The solution is a stellar China travel specialist with up-to-date intel, reliable taste, special access, and well-trained, flexible English-speaking guides who can get you past the lines and crowds and who understand the difference between authentic, photogenic experiences and tourist traps. My Trusted Travel Experts for China fit the bill. They know this year’s must-dos and must-skips, and they’ve shared that intelligence in their Insider’s Guides (for example, Mei Zhang’s Insider’s Guide to Beijing or Yunnan Province). So, if you’re thinking about China, reach out to me, via Ask Wendy, to find the one who best suits your needs. 

Hong Kong Via Helicopter

Hong Kong viewed from a helicopter. Photo courtesy David Allardice.

I’d love to know: Do you want to travel to China this year? Why or why not?

 

 

 

Auberge du Jeu de Paume, Chantilly, France

Great Paris Hotels for an Airport Layover at Charles de Gaulle

Question:

Hi Wendy,

You have great suggestions for the best hotels for a London (Heathrow) stopover. Can you help with Paris (Charles de Gaulle)? We’ll be en route from Africa to California, landing at CDG in the mid-afternoon and departing at 10:30 a.m. the next day. We’ll be tired and would prefer to stay near the airport rather than going into Paris. (We’ve been lucky enough to have seen Paris many times.) But none of the obvious CDG hotel choices look that appealing.

Thanks,
Jane

Answer:

Jane, I presume by “obvious CDG hotel choices” you mean the Sheraton Charles de Gaulle (Terminal 2), the Hilton Charles de Gaulle (Terminal 3), and the citizenM across the road from the Hilton?  I’ve stayed at the Sheraton—because it’s conveniently located at the entrance to the train station where you can zip into the city center—and you’re right:  There’s no real reason to stay there unless you want to pop into Paris for an afternoon and evening.

Here are four alternatives, suggested by one of my Trusted Travel Experts for France, Jack Dancy of Trufflepig, who until recently lived in Paris and is now based in Burgundy. 

1.  The Auberge du Jeu de Paume is an estate in Chantilly that is a 24-minute ride from the airport. It’s a Relais & Chateaux property with a two-Michelin-star restaurant and a brand new spa. “The rooms look onto the gardens of the Château de Chantilly, which is truly splendid and which, in fact, houses one of the largest French Masters collections outside the Louvre,” says Jack. “The town of Chantilly itself is very lovely. Chantilly housed the Royal Stables, and there is still a superbly picturesque race course in the town. You can visit the Royal Stables and the ‘Living Horse Museum’ quite apart from visiting the château and gardens. And nearby is the equally pretty town of Senlis, well worth heading to for lunch and a stroll.”

2. The Château d’Ermenonville, close to the town of Senlis, is also a 24-minute ride from the airport.  (Take a taxi or have the hotel send a car to the airport to pick you up.)  Located in a forest, it works “for a grandiose quiet night in a château complete with moat,”  says Jack.

Should you feel like a little exercise between long flights, Jack can send a guide, with bikes for you, for an afternoon of biking in the Senlis area, through rolling countryside and the royal hunting forests. That way you’re sightseeing and exercising simultaneously–a nice way to spend a stopover.

3. Should you want to pop into Paris after all, stay just inside the Périphérique (the city ring road), in the 18th arrondissement (Montmartre) or the 20th, since these locations are only a 20-minute taxi ride from CDG.  “I like the Hotel Particulier Montmartre,” says Jack. “You reduce your travel time to CDG compared to a downtown hotel by anything up to 40 minutes at high-traffic times (i.e., when you’re leaving for your morning flight back to North America).  For a one-night stay, it can be fun to be up in Montmartre in particular because people often don’t want to dedicate a whole Paris stay to that neighborhood, but for a final night are happy to be a little out of town, especially with the added benefit of an easy departure.”

4. If you opt for the 20th arrondissement, “to experience a less touristy part of town,” Jack recommends staying at Mama Shelter.  “From both the Hotel Particulier Montmartre and Mama Shelter, you can get directly onto the Périphérique, avoiding all city traffic.”

For imaginative travel solutions in Paris or anywhere in France, connect with Jack Dancy via this trip-request form (so he knows you’re a WendyPerrin.com traveler).

Enjoy your stopover!

Rooftops in Venice, Italy

Is Venice Really Banning All Wheeled Luggage?

Question:

“I’ve heard a rumor that Venice is going to ban all roll-on suitcases starting in May 2015. Is this true? My husband and I will be visiting Venice then and hope we won’t have to carry our suitcases to our hotel or be held hostage by someone who insists on carrying them at a high cost. We travel light, but not that light.”
—Sharon

Answer:

Anyone who has flown to Venice, taken a water taxi from the airport to the stop closest to their hotel, and then wheeled their luggage—over cobbled streets and up and down stone stairs and over ancient footbridges—to their hotel knows what an obstacle course that can be, especially since some hotels are hidden down tiny alleys and hard to find. Getting lost in Venice is one of the most fun travel experiences I know, but getting lost with luggage is not.

The good news, Sharon, is that the ban on wheeled luggage is a rumor. There were reports last fall that the Venice City Council was going to ban it (for visitors, not residents) and slap travelers who break the ban with a 500 euro fine. But then Venetian authorities clarified what had been a misunderstanding: They are not planning any ban or fine after all. But the controversy points to an ongoing problem: Twenty million tourists or so visit Venice annually, and all those wheels damage ancient stones (not to mention suitcases) and create a cacophony.

“Venice presents unique logistical challenges if you have more than a backpack,” says Brian Dore, one of my Trusted Travel Experts for Italy. You should absolutely check out Brian’s Insider’s Guide to Venice. I asked him to share advice for handling luggage in Venice, and he was kind enough to lay out your options:

“1. Water taxis and porters
Water taxis wait at the airport, but keep in mind that it is a fairly long walk to the water-taxi dock. You will need a cart to put your luggage on, and then you’ll need to wheel it to the pier. The water-taxi driver will tell you the fare based upon the address of your hotel (it’s more expensive if your hotel dock is on a small side canal, as opposed to the Grand Canal) and the amount of luggage you have. If you don’t want to walk to the water-taxi pier, car taxis wait just outside the airport exit and you can go immediately to the Piazzale Roma, Venice’s frontier for cars. From here, you can hire a porter to take your bags to a water taxi and then on to your hotel. The cost of the porter service is 2.50 euro per bag.

If you’re arriving at the train station, you can take a water taxi directly from the station to your hotel.

2. Public Transportation
If you want to save on the water taxi, you can take the public water buses to the stop nearest your hotel. This is advisable only if you can carry your luggage, such as a backpack. If you have actual luggage, with our without wheels, the vaporetto operator may make you wait for the next one if the water bus is crowded, and when you do arrive at your station, you then have to navigate the confusing maze of Venetian streets to find your hotel. Doing this with luggage—even one small suitcase with wheels—is difficult, as well as hard on your luggage. It’s not recommended; it’s worth paying for a water taxi. If you are traveling in Italy with luggage but can consolidate to a backpack for your days in Venice, you might consider checking the rest of your luggage in a locker at the airport or station.

3. Private Service
When our travelers arrive at any entry point, an assistant meets them with a waiting water taxi and porters, and it is prepaid—so there’s no wandering around to find service and no worries about being overcharged along the way.”

In summary, advises Brian, “if you can’t physically carry your bags, save yourself some aggravation and pay for help. There is value in convenience.”

Brian and his wife Maria Gabriella Landers can, in fact, make everything easier and more rewarding when you travel in Italy. Here’s the best way to contact them for a trip. Check out their fabulous blog Postcards from Italy too. 

Buon viaggio!

Barcelona - Park Guell, Spain

European Cities that are Surprisingly Kid-Friendly

You’d be amazed how many of our frequent-traveling families prefer European capitals of culture to the beach.  So we’ve rounded up a few of our favorite European cities for vacations that are exceptionally kid-friendly yet also sophisticated enough for culture-vulture parents:

Berlin

The fantastic public transportation network is what puts Berlin over the top as a family-friendly destination. “Every place of note in the city is well served by public transportation,” says Gwen Kozlowski, who is one of the Eastern Europe travel specialists on Wendy’s WOW List of Trusted Travel Experts and who frequently takes her young son on European scouting trips.  “Getting around as a family is easy and a good value. The Berlin Welcome card provides from 48 hours to 6 days of unlimited transportation on the metro, S-Bahn (elevated train), and city buses, and each card covers one adult and three kids 6 to 14 years old; children under 6 are free.”  For families Gwen recommends the Adina Hackescher Markt hotel, where a two-bedroom suite costs less than a standard room in many of the city’s five-stars. Expose your kids to history at the Checkpoint Charlie House—but only later in the day, she advises, after all the tour buses have left.

For the best possible family-friendly trip to Berlin and to be marked as a VIP, contact Gwen through Wendy’s questionnaire. Read reviews of Gwen’s trips here.  

Paris

child playing with toy boats in the Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris France

Paris is filled with parks and playgrounds. That’s Wendy’s son Doug in the Jardin du Luxembourg when he was eight.

When you’re traveling with kids, you want engaging activities, easy transportation, and great spaces for downtime, and the City of Light ticks all of these boxes. Paris also has an increasing number of pedestrian zones and neighborhoods closed to traffic on certain days, and strollers, scooters, and various bike set-ups can easily be rented to get around. Many Paris museums have kid-friendly spaces and self-guided tours; make sure to download the children’s activity book before tackling the Eiffel Tower. If you’re seeking special private experiences, nobody is more plugged in than Jennifer Virgilio, one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for France, who can arrange hands-on activities such as an éclair-making class or an out-of-the-box tour that focuses on the city’s street art.  Renting an apartment in the right arrondissement can be a smart move for families too. Finally, when all you need is to burn off some energy, head to one of the many neighborhood parks and playgrounds, all well maintained and fenced in for safety.

Read Jennifer’s Insider’s Guide to Paris with Perks and, for the best possible family-friendly trip to Paris and to be marked as a VIP, contact Jennifer through Wendy’s questionnaire. Read reviews of Jennifer’s trips here.

Dijon

Burgundy might be best known for its wine, but there’s plenty else to keep the underage set happy in the region’s capital. Dijon, you see, was the capital of the Valois Dukes—who were once more powerful than the king—so the old center is full of well-preserved medieval architecture. At the farmer’s market, France Trusted Travel Expert Michael Eloy arranges for kids to help an organic farmer run his stall. He also sends families to the Parc de la Colombière, where young and old can tackle a treetop ropes course, and to the Place de la Libération, where parents sit and enjoy a respite at a café while the kids play in the fountains.

Read Michael’s Insider’s Guide to Burgundy, and for the best possible family-friendly trip to Burgundy and to be marked as a VIP, contact Michael through Wendy’s questionnaire. Read reviews of Michael’s trips here

Florence

Florence, Italy. Photo: Shutterstock

Florence, Italy. Photo: Shutterstock

“At first glance, Florence is intimidating for families because many of the famous attractions are museums and monuments that seem grandiose and overwhelming, even to adults,” says Maria Landers, Trusted Travel Expert for Italy. “But with a little research and planning, Florence—and by extension, Italy’s Renaissance history—can be made vibrant and interesting for younger visitors. Several of the city’s museums, including the Palazzo Vecchio and the Museo Galileo, offer guided itineraries for children, and the Bardini and Boboli gardens are perfect outdoor spots for romping and picnicking. Don’t forget to reward yourselves with healthy doses of gelato as you go!”

Read Maria’s Insider’s Guide to Florence, and for the best possible family-friendly trip to Florence and to be marked as a VIP, contact Maria through Wendy’s questionnaire. Read reviews of Maria’s trips here

Istanbul

Galata Tower and the street in the Old Town of Istanbul, Turkey

Galata Tower and the street in the Old Town of Istanbul, Turkey. Photo: Shutterstock

Many of the city’s sites naturally appeal to youngsters: “The Rahmi M Koç Industrial Museum’s interactive displays are great for kids, who also love going underground to the Byzantine Cistern and spying fish in the water,” says Earl Starkey, Trusted Travel Expert for Turkey. Earl uses art as a kid-friendly window into Turkish culture, arranging private classes on pottery and ebru (the Ottoman technique of paper marbling), as well as cooking. Even the pickiest palates will be satisfied with pide—best described as Turkish pizza—and Istanbul’s ubiquitous fresh-squeezed juices. To escape the city’s hustle and bustle, take a ferry to the car-free island of Buyukada, where you can rent bikes or hire a horse-drawn carriage.

Read Earl’s Insider’s Guide to Istanbul, and contact him through Wendy’s “Start a Trip” questionnaire to be marked as a VIP and get the best trip possible.

London

National Gallery in Trafalgar Square London England

Many museums in London are free, including the National Gallery in Trafalgar Square. Photo: Michael Heffernan/London and Partners

Free museums make London a great choice for families.  The Science Museum, the Natural History Museum, the Victoria and Albert Museum, the British Museum, the Tate Modern, the National Portrait Gallery,  the National Maritime Museum, the National Gallery, and the Museum of London are only the start.  “Anywhere else, visiting even half of these would ring up costs of at least $100 per person,” notes Jonathan Epstein, Trusted Travel Expert for the British Isles. He adds that traveling to London removes the language barrier that can trip up some kids—especially on their first adventure abroad. Epstein’s young son is a devotee of the pirate-ship climbing structure at the Diana, Princess of Wales’ Memorial Playground. And then, of course, there’s Harry Potter: Families can visit sites featured in the books, or even tour the studios where the movies were filmed. Don’t miss this London advice from Wendy’s 14-year-old son: Dos and Don’ts For Your Trip to London.

Contact Jonathan through Wendy’s “Start a Trip” questionnaire to be marked as a VIP and get the best trip possible.

Barcelona

Sagrada Familia Barcelona Spain

Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia looks to some like a child’s masterpiece in sand. Photo: Pixabay

The Mediterranean climate makes it almost always pleasant to be outdoors (who wants to be cooped up inside with kids?), and there’s a fantastic beach area where can spend your afternoons after mornings spent exploring the city. Gaudi’s famous Sagrada Familia looks to some like a child’s masterpiece in sand—maybe that’s why kids are so drawn to his buildings and to the other Catalan Modernist structures sprinkled throughout the city. You could spend an entire day exploring how nature and architecture are woven together at Parc Guell.  And did you know that chocolate was introduced to Europe by the Spanish?  There’s a chocolate factory in Barcelona that will have your kids begging for a second trip.

Contact Spain expert Pablo Calvo through Wendy’s “Start a Trip” questionnaire to be marked as a VIP and get the best trip possible.

What European cities would you add to this list?

Be a smarter traveler: Read real travelers’ reviews of Wendy’s WOW List and use it to plan your next trip. You can also follow her on Facebook, Twitter @wendyperrin, and Instagram @wendyperrin, and sign up for her weekly newsletter to stay in the know.

elephants locking trunks safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Safari Packing List: Don’t Leave Home Without These Essentials

If you’re looking for a thrilling adventure, an African safari is a no-brainer. But wide-ranging temperatures and internal flights with stringent luggage restrictions can make safari packing a real challenge.

Basic requirements include sunscreen, a camera, a good hat, and sporty shoes, of course, but when space and weight are at a premium, what else do you choose and what can you lose? We interviewed our Trusted Travel Experts for Africa to glean the secrets to packing smart for a safari.

lion yawning safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

For every safari:

Use a soft, malleable bag with no wheels.
To maximize your options, your best bet is a soft bag that’s flexible enough to squeeze into a tiny storage compartment (wheels are a no-no).
Linda Friedman of Custom Safaris
likes The North Face medium-sized Base Camp Duffel. The Base Camp has internal pockets and can be carried traditionally or as a backpack. Nina Wennersten of Hippo Creek Safaris recommends the L.L. Bean medium-sized Adventure Duffel, what with its super-lightweight fabric weighing a mere 14 ounces.

Count on free laundry.
Flying into the bush means you’ll be on small planes with very little cargo space. Assume you’ll have a limit of 15kg/33lbs per person—camera equipment and carry-on included. The good news: Camps provide free laundry service (though not all of them will launder your undies) so think about packing for a long, adventure weekend—not the full length of your trip—knowing you’ll be able to enjoy clean clothes as needed.

Cheetah in Kenya Photo by Susan Portnoy

Cheetah in Kenya. Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Stick to neutral tones.
Avoid bright colors that scream “I’m here!” to the animals, and avoid wearing black or dark blue while on game drives, as annoying bugs may think you’re a skinny buffalo.

Think layers
African weather is variable: Evenings and early morning are chilly, but it’s toasty by midday, if not sooner. Layers will keep you prepared for anything. Pants, a T-shirt, a fleece and a light jacket usually suffice outside of the winter months and enable you to peel down as the sun kicks in. Lightweight cargo pants that unzip into shorts are a great way to get two pieces for the price of one. For women, Cherri Briggs of Explore recommends adding a cashmere shawl. It’ll keep you warm when needed, dress up an outfit at dinner, or double as a cover-up at the pool.

Save space for a power strip and other non-clothing essentials.
Even the most luxurious camps have a limited number of outlets in each guest tent, so our experts suggest adding a travel power strip to your packing list so that you can charge everything you need each night. And don’t forget a universal adapter. It will come in handy no matter where you travel. Bring an ultra-light day pack that you can take with you on game drives to carry an extra camera battery, an extra memory card, a pocket journal, your sunglasses, sunscreen, and the like.

For photography enthusiasts who plan on taking a boatload of photos, a small portable hard drive, like Silicon Power’s Rugged Armor 1TB external drive, is highly recommended.

A herd of hippos in Botswana Photo by Susan Portnoy

A herd of hippos in Botswana. Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

For specific locations:

Botswana
During the rainy season (November–February) “a lightweight rain poncho may come in handy,” says Julian Harrison of Premier Tours. If you’re planning on riding in a mokoro, he also recommends including a waterproof bag to store your electronics. In the Okavango Delta, because travel between camps consists of short, small plane rides, you may wish to include Dramamine if you’re prone to motion sickness.

Read Julian’s Insider’s Guide to Botswana.

The Congo, Rwanda, and Uganda
Julian recommends bringing silica gel dry packs to put in your camera bags; they will protect your electronic devices from the high humidity. Quick-dry shirts and pants will protect you against the humidity, and a pair of gardening gloves will shield your hands from stinging nettles if you’re trekking gorilla or chimpanzee.

Since plastic bags have been banned in Rwanda to help the country cut down on litter and will be confiscated on arrival, Linda suggests reusable pouches for all the odd and ends you would normally toss into zip-top bags.

Read Linda’s Insider’s Guide to Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda and Uganda.

Photographing Lions in Botswana Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photographing lions in Botswana. Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Kenya, South Africa, and Tanzania
Some of the best game viewing is during Africa’s winter months (May–August), but the weather can be very cold at night and in the early morning. Nina packs a warm hat, gloves, and a Uniqlo Ultra Light down jacket. She says, “It’s virtually weightless, takes up little room in a suitcase,” and works great on its own or as another layer for when it’s really chilly.

Read Linda’s Insider’s Guide to Kenya’s Great Migration; and Nina’s Insider’s Guides to South Africa and Kenya and Tanzania.

Namibia and Zambia
If you’re visiting during the hot season (October–February), Cherri warns, “Be prepared for serious heat!” She suggests travelers bring plenty of Rehydrate, an electrolyte replacement drink mix, to keep you happy and healthy while out and about. She also recommends putting Listerine in a spray bottle to repel tsetse flies. If you’re going on a walking safari in South Luangwa, Zambia, Julian suggests adding a pair of gaiters to your packing list to keep ticks from attaching to your socks.

Read Cherri’s Insider’s Guide to Namibia and her Insider’s Guide to Zambia.

 

Be a smarter traveler: Use Wendy’s WOW List to plan your next trip. You can also follow her on Facebook and Twitter @wendyperrin, and sign up for her weekly newsletter to stay in the know.


 

Read more from Susan Portnoy at her own site, The Insatiable Traveler, and follow her at facebook.com/Insatiabletraveler and @susanportnoy.

How to Transform a Disney Trip from Average to Extraordinary

Just thinking about a vacation at Disney World conjures all kinds of images: Mickey Mouse, princesses, rides, parades, smiles, magic…big crowds, long lines, overtired parents, overstimulated children. Of course, you can have all of the good with none of the bad, but it requires some planning—and a lot of know-how. After a recent trip to Orlando, we’ve got you covered with our own tricks, as well as advice from our Trusted Travel Expert for Disney vacations, Michelle Allen, who can help ensure an all-smiles, no-stress trip with all the best activities and experiences (and oh yeah, she costs nothing to you; Disney pays her fees). Here are five foolproof ways to transform a Disney World trip from average to extraordinary.

 

Four Seasons Orlando

After a day at the park, the sleek and sophisticated design of the Four Seasons is a welcome respite from its over-the-top surroundings.

1. Stay at the new Four Seasons

Disney World has a lot of really great hotels at a wide variety of price points, but the newest addition to the lineup really stands apart. The Four Seasons Orlando just had its grand opening this fall, and provides all the luxury and service you’d expect from a Four Seasons property—attentive staff, beautiful rooms, a full-service spa, customized beds—plus all of the official Disney services, thanks to its location inside park boundaries (e.g., free buses to parks and attractions, an on-site desk for tickets and reservations, discounts for Disney-property guests). “It’s still on campus, so you’re not giving up the location that you would have had to in the past to stay somewhere different—it’s really right there within,” Michelle says. “And while Disney does deluxe, this is really luxury.”

The hotel’s best perk might just be the visual and mental break it provides from its over-the-top surroundings. After a day of crowds and craziness (or instead of one), the hotel’s nearly-mouse-free design, sleek adults-only pool, cocktail-carrying pool staff, and full-service spa are a welcome respite. Not that families are forgotten here—this is Disney World after all, and the hotel is a very kid-friendly home base with a complimentary kids club, two water slides, a lazy river, a zero-entry family pool, a rock-climbing wall, sand volleyball courts, and a splash zone water playground. There’s even a character breakfast.*

 

Disney World Orlando

The mosaics in Epcot’s Morocco showcase were crafted by master artisans. And since only Allah can achieve perfection, they left a crack or a flaw in every work. Photo by Billie Cohen.

2. Splurge on a VIP Tour

We’re not saying this isn’t expensive, we’re just saying it’s a pretty failsafe way to make your time in Disney World more extraordinary. Hire a VIP guide and you’ll be picked up at your hotel and ushered into the parks of your choice through special back-lot entrances. Once inside, your guide will map out the most efficient way to hit every ride, parade, and snack spot on your wish list, FastPassing you to the front of lines and character meet-and-greets, scoring VIP seating at parades and fireworks, and dropping all kinds of Disney secrets and trivia along the way. Wondering who’s on those portraits in the Haunted House? Why there’s an intentional flaw in EPCOT’s Moroccan fountain? I was repeatedly impressed by how much my guide knew, and her narrative made my day more than just a series of rides. Apart from the fun of all that Disney geekdom, it’s the personalized attention that really makes a VIP Tour attractive: The stress of crowds, lines, far-far-away bathrooms, parking—they are all removed from the equation. At a price, of course: rates range from $1,890 to $3,000 for a six-hour-minimum tour, depending on the season and whether you’re staying at a Disney resort, and that fee does not include park admission. On the bright side, that fee is the same whether you’re one person or ten, so if you’re traveling as a family or two, the cost can be shared…or mitigated another way, as Michelle has seen from her own experience: “There are some people who may stay at a moderate resort and put that money toward a guide instead,” she says.

 

Disney World Orlando

Pick up a MagicBand and you can leave pretty much everything in your hotel room—even your room key. Photo courtesy Walt Disney World.

3. Embrace technology

Thanks to the magic of the Internet, you can reserve three FastPass rides before you step foot outside the hotel (or even before you leave home). “It used to be that you had to get to the park before opening,” Michelle recalls. “The rope would drop, you’d get a FastPass, hop on a ride, then run to the other end of the park to get another FastPass. But now you can reserve guaranteed board at Space Mountain between 10:30 and 11, so guess who gets to have a leisurely breakfast? You do.” Guests staying at a Disney resort can also use MagicBand bracelets, which are registered online and then used for various functions, including park admissions, FastPass reservations, Disney PhotoPass accounts, paying for food and merchandise, and even unlocking your hotel room door.

Tying it all together is the My Disney Experience app. From your phone, you’ll be able to check ride wait times, change up your FastPasses, make dining reservations, and find character greeting locations. Plus it has GPS, so you’ll be able to see where you are in relation to that Dole Whip you’ve been craving.

 

Disney World Orlando

Silhouettes and abstract images of the renowned mouse are hidden throughout the parks and resorts of Disney World. This one is embedded in a giraffe carving at Animal Kingdom Lodge. Can you see it? Photo courtesy Walt Disney World.

4. Go surfing… or backstage

Some of the parks feature special activities that really do make you feel special. Typhoon Lagoon offers surf lessons before the park opens to the masses. At Hollywood Studios, you can dine with a Disney Imagineer. And at Magic Kingdom, the Keys to the Kingdom tour lifts the curtain on the whole Disney show, bringing you to backstage areas, leading you through the secret underground tunnels used by staff to get around without being seen, and pointing out a ton of hidden Mickeys disguised all over the park.

5. Use our Trusted Travel Expert
Yes, yes, we’re tooting our own horn here, but we have no qualms about it. Booking a trip with Michelle Allen won’t cost you a thing, but booking without her most certainly will. You’ll end up paying in time, stress, and yeah, probably dollars because she can not only make sure you get access to great activities, she can also find you deals (and let you know when something simply isn’t worth the price). There’s just so much to navigate, reserve, and organize when it comes to planning a Disney vacation. Why do it alone? Read more about Michelle’s background and her tips for Disney World.<

 

*Disclosure: Four Seasons Orlando provided me with a three-night stay free of charge, and Disney provided me with a VIP Tour so that I could test it for our readers. In keeping with WendyPerrin.com standard practice, there was no request for or expectation of coverage on Four Seasons’ or Disney’s part, nor was anything promised on ours. You can read the signed agreement between WendyPerrin.com and the organizers of my trip here.

Viking river cruise on the Danube

Which European River Is Most Interesting for a River Cruise?

Question:

Hi Wendy,

My wife and I are looking to go on a 10-day river cruise this year (our first). Which of Europe’s rivers would be most interesting? We have been told that some rivers can be on the boring side. We are not looking for a cheap option and are prepared to pay up to £2000 each. Hope that you may be able to assist.

Regards,
David

Answer:

Great question, David. I’ve sailed on the Seine, the Rhine, and the Danube, and, in my opinion, the prettiest of those is the Seine: There is more scenery that is pastoral rather than industrial, the river winds and swirls a lot more, and it’s also narrower and so the passing boats are smaller and more rustic and charming.

The Rhine has the most activity and the most transportation you can see from the ship (often you see trains go by along the riverbank); it’s like being on a highway of ships. But it’s also got the most castles. The Danube is very pretty in parts (especially the stretch from Durnstein to Melk that is famous for its vineyards and castles), but it too is industrial for stretches. All three rivers have a lot of locks. I’ve heard that the Mosel (sometimes spelled Moselle) is quite picturesque and, like the Seine, is relatively narrow and winds a lot. A couple of ship captains and river-cruise execs have told me it’s their favorite.

Of course, just as important as the river’s landscape are the cities and villages you stop in. I chose the Danube for my river cruise in November specifically because Danube cruises tend to hit at least four countries (Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary) and several important and gorgeous cultural capitals (including Vienna and Budapest). I specifically wanted to be in these big cities during their Christmas-markets season. Ships on the Seine tend to stop in more small villages than big cities.

David, you’re the perfect example of someone who would benefit by using the right travel agent who specializes in river cruises. You need an honest adviser who knows the differences among all the rivers and ships and can make sure you get exactly what you want and spend your money wisely. If I were you, I’d reach out to European river cruise specialist Tom Baker.

I hope that helps.

Happy New Year,
Wendy

great migration, wildebeest, mara river, masai mara Kenya

Flash Airfare Sale: KLM Offering Great Deals to Kenya

Don’t put off that dream safari any longer. Right now, KLM is having an amazing 24-hour flash sale to Nairobi, Kenya—less than $800 round-trip from New York, Chicago, and Houston. You must buy the tickets today (December 10), and don’t be scared off by the recent ebola outbreak—Nairobi is more than 3,000 miles from the closest affected country.

Kenya is home to the Great Migration, and wonderful safari camps. For help planning your safari, contact one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for East Africa, Nina Wennersten or Linda Friedman.

Where to Travel in 2015: 10 Up-and-Coming Destinations

Figuring out your next great trip is one of the best problems anyone could have: The world is big, and the possibilities seem limitless. To help you decide, we went straight to the sources: the travel experts who live and work in the most interesting places around the world. Whether your goal is to immerse yourself in history, indulge in food and drink, or lie on a beach, these are the up-and-coming hot spots to do it in next year.

1. Porto Heli, Greece

Porto Heli is a small seaside village where many Athenians have their summer houses. Thanks to a combo of serene views (beautiful beaches line stunning blue waters) and a cosmopolitan sensibility (luxe private yachts fill the marina and upscale hot spot Spetses is ten minutes away), the town is gaining a lot of attention. Situated on the eastern part of the Peloponnese peninsula, it can be easily reached either by sea (two hours by hydrofoil from Piraeus harbor) or by land (two and a half hour drive from Athens). Once there, two new luxury properties—the Aman Amanzo’e and the Nikki Beach Resort & Spa—are catering to those without summer homes.

To plan a trip, Ask Wendy.

2. Fez, Morocco

 

Photo by Deborah Dunn

Photo by Deborah Dunn

Fez is the long overlooked sister to Marrakech. It has long been the heart of Moroccan culture, and always a traditional and conservative city, but it’s now becoming hip and chic due to a startling new infusion of energy. On the way for Fez: a new airport (set to open in spring 2015) with flights coming in from major European cities. Already there: The new five-star Sahrai Hotel and Karawan Riad. Food is in the spotlight there as well, thanks to a chef-in-residence program at Restaurant Numero 7, which will feature kitchen stars from around the world throughout 2015.

To plan a trip, Ask Wendy.

 

Surfing -Tel Aviv-Israel-cr-Dana Friedlander-1000x667

Tel Aviv

3. Tel Aviv, Israel

Twenty years ago you could not find one decent boutique or five-star hotel in Tel Aviv, nor could you get a decent meal other than hummus and falafel. That has all changed. The Tel Aviv area now boasts five-star and boutique hotels along the Mediterranean shoreline, celeb-chef restaurants for every taste, world-class museums, and vibrant nightlife (including a lively LBGT scene, especially during Pride). The newest and hippest neighborhood in Tel Aviv is actually one of the oldest: Sarona. Founded in 1870 by German Evangelical Christians and abandoned in 1939, this restored 19th-century neighborhood is now lined with boutique shops, bars and restaurants of the moment. On the hotel front, two new buzzy additions are The Norman, a hotel in a pre-Bauhaus 1920s building, and The Market House in Jaffa’s ancient surroundings.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Joe Yudin.

 

Madrid

Madrid

4. Madrid, Spain

Foodies should look beyond Catalonia’s El Celler de Can Roca this year and put Madrid on their must-eat list. Five of the city’s restaurants were awarded their first Michelin stars this year, bringing the number of starred eateries to eight. Mohawk-wearing, multi-pierced chef David Muñoz is often thought of as the inspiration behind Madrid’s new edgy flavor, with his eccentric Spanish-meets-Asian eatery DiverXo (and its three Michelin stars), but now he has plenty of company. Two new food markets are catering to hungry crowds: Platea, a collection of tapas restaurants in an old cinema space, and the three-floor Mercado de San Ildefonso, filled with food stands. Even the new five-star Hotel Urso is getting in on the act: Its pop-up restaurant, The Table, invites up-and-coming chefs from around the world to show off their kitchen skills for a few weeks at a time.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Virginia Irurita.

 

Sanctuary Ananda river boat

Sanctuary Ananda river boat

5. River cruises in Southeast Asia

A few years ago Myanmar emerged from five decades of political oppression to welcome tourism—and this has boosted interest in exploring the rivers of Southeast Asia. On the banks of Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River, the Bagan Archeological Zone features an impressive concentration of more than 2,000 pagodas and temples. Along the Mekong River in Vietnam and Cambodia, travelers can experience traditional villages and bustling cities, as well as Angkor Wat. With the boom in luxury cruise itineraries and the introduction of intimate modern riverboats—such as the Orcaella (sailing Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River), the Sanctuary Ananda (custom-built for the Ayeyarwady using traditional materials), the Aqua Mekong (five-star luxury and one-Michelin-starred food along the Mekong River), and the Jahan (exploring Vietnam and Cambodia in the company of National Geographic experts)—travelers no longer have to be on the backpacker circuit to explore these lesser-known corners of Southeast Asia.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Ashton Palmer.

 

6. Alacati, Turkey

Alacati is a quaint, small town on Turkey’s Aegean Coast, and it’s still more popular with locals than with tourists. Wander among the narrow streets and stone houses, shop the markets and boutiques, hit the cafés and restaurants…and if you want beaches, Alacati has that covered too: The shoreline here is some of the most beautiful in Turkey. The new Alavya hotel—a collection of six unique houses situated around a small modern pool and a swatch of lawn—completes the destination.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Karen Fedorko Sefer.

 

Registan Square

Registan Square

7. Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Located along the Silk Road in northeastern Uzbekistan, Samarkand has a history that goes back more than 2,000 years. UNESCO has recognized it as a crossroads of culture, the site of the 7th-century BC city of Afrosiab, an 8th-century mosque, a medieval city from the 14th century, and more. Registan mosque and its surrounding square are the city’s most iconic monuments, but certainly not the only draw. Though there are many archaeological treasures here, a bustling modern city surrounds the historical center. There’s now a high-speed train and frequent flights from Tashkent, plus many new restaurants and hotels.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Zulya Rajabova.

 

Kayaking in Tortuguero National Park

Kayaking in Tortuguero National Park. Photo by Sergio Pucci/Courtesy Costa Rica Expeditions.

8. Tortuguero National Park region, Costa Rica

Multigenerational family travel is not a new trend, but the types of destinations that families are traveling to continue to shift and surprise us (even wine country can be kid-friendly). Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica is one of those places, and despite its remote location (you must travel to the region by boat or light aircraft), the number of travelers heading there has skyrocketed lately. One possible explanation: This particular spot provides an unusual combo of seclusion…and Internet access! Kids may be happy kayaking down the creek, but they’ll be even happier when they tell their friends about it.

To plan a trip, get in touch with Priscilla Jiminez, one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Costa Rica.

 

National Museum of Australia. Photo courtesy Tourism Australia

National Museum of Australia. Photo courtesy Tourism Australia

9. Canberra, Australia

Canberra is often overlooked as a city of politicians and school excursions, but it is fast emerging as a colorful tourism destination. In October it was named the best city in the world to live in—in a report by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development—and a variety of hip and quirky openings have made Australia’s capital city seem cool again. Ovolo Nishi is a design-centric collaboration between artists, creative firms, and makers. Both the QT Canberra and the Peppers Gallery were updated and renovated into boutique-style properties this year. On the food front, Peppers has a locally acclaimed restaurant (along with about nine other city spots recently identified as buzzworthy by The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide), and there are 33 wineries within a 35-minute drive of the city. Neighborhoods are being revitalized left and right, from the arty New Acton district to the hipster haven of Lonsdale Street, lined with bars and restaurants. And several new attractions have arrived recently: the National Arboretum, the National Gallery of Australia, and the Centenary Trail, which winds through Canberra’s urban and rural landscapes.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Stuart Rigg.

 

10. Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Until recently, Zimbabwe was perceived as unsafe: Political and economic troubles made tourists think twice. But Zim is back. It’s safe for travelers (not to mention less expensive than neighboring countries), and the place to visit is Hwange National Park, one of the most renowned wildlife areas in Africa. Home to the country’s largest population of elephants and more than 100 species of mammals, it’s also the site of a fabulous new camp scheduled to open in May 2015. Linkwasha Camp—comprised of just seven luxury tents overlooking an active waterhole— will be situated close to the Ngamo Plains, an area known for fantastic game viewing, which you can experience up close, day or night, with private guides.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Cherri Briggs.

 

Where are you headed in 2015? 

Europe’s Christmas Markets: How to Plan the Perfect Trip

When you’re looking for festive Old World holiday charm, you can’t beat Central Europe. Cities and villages decorate and light up their medieval town squares until they look like something out of a fairytale. Stalls sell unique handmade gifts and delicious regional specialties to eat. Locals gather after work to drink glühwein (hot mulled wine with sweet Christmas spices), socialize, and enjoy concerts al fresco. These Christmas Markets are great for holiday shopping too: Most of the merchandise is affordable handicrafts that you can’t find in the U.S. or in any catalog—and notably absent from the experience is the crass commercialism surrounding Christmas that you find in the States.

I’ve now gone Christkindlemarkt-hopping through Central Europe several times (by car, train, and river ship), as well as in several ways (on my own, with my husband, and, just last week, with children in tow), so I thought I’d share my hard-earned tips for how to plan an extraordinary Christmas Markets trip, illustrated with Instagram pics from last week.

1. Hit a mix of big cities and small towns—and more than one country.

It’s surprising how different the markets are in different cities—and how different the handicrafts and foods are. You might see something for sale and think, “I can get that at the next place,” but there are many unique items you won’t find again. The markets vary most by country, which is why country-hopping makes the experience even more interesting. Particularly lovely markets are in Vienna, Salzburg, Nuremberg, Passau, Heidelberg, Regensburg (specifically the Romantischer Weihnachtsmarkt there), Strasbourg, and Dusseldorf, as well as in many small German towns. If you can choose only one city, make it one with several different markets; my recommendation would be Vienna.

Here’s the Christmas Market at Maria-Theresien-Platz. #Vienna #ChristmasMarkets A photo posted by Wendy Perrin (@wendyperrin) on

 

2. Time your trip right.

Each market has different start and end dates. In Central Europe many start in late November and last till December 24, with a few even lasting into the first days of January. Your itinerary will likely be dictated by the dates of the Christmas markets in the cities that most interest you. You’ll find those dates on each country’s or city’s tourism information website.

#Bratislava #ChristmasMarkets in front of the Slovak National Theatre. A photo posted by Wendy Perrin (@wendyperrin) on

 

3. Focus your Christmas-market visits on weekdays.

Factor into your itinerary that the markets are best visited on weekdays rather than weekends, when they can be extremely crowded. Morning is the best time for actual shopping (that’s when crowds are lightest), whereas the best time for photos is at about 4:30 p.m. (the sky turns from overcast to blue at dusk), and the concerts tend to happen in the evenings. Beware Friday and Saturday nights at the markets in big cities.

#Lights, #lanterns, and things that glow at the #ChristmasMarkets at Michaelerplatz, #Vienna A photo posted by Wendy Perrin (@wendyperrin) on

 

4. Don’t rent a car.

Driving between cities with Christmas markets is a logistical pain. Snow conditions can make it difficult, you can’t drive close to the markets because they’re usually in pedestrian-only areas in the old city, and parking is really hard to find. Getting around by train or river-cruise ship is much easier. Train stations are usually within easy walking distance of the old city (where the market is). A river cruise is easy in that you don’t have to worry about the logistics of getting between cities (the ship drops you off in town), and you don’t have to pack things from hotel to hotel. A river cruise is, in fact, what I did last week—aboard Viking River Cruises.

All aboard! Next stop: Bratislava. #VikingCruises A photo posted by Wendy Perrin (@wendyperrin) on

 

5. Forget restaurant reservations.

You’ll be snacking your way through Europe—it’s impossible to resist trying the many intriguing local specialties—and there won’t be space left in your belly for a sit-down meal. Much of the food at Christmas markets you can’t find in restaurants anyway—giant donut pretzels, for instance, or chimney cake. You needn’t even try speaking the local language because at each stand you can point to the food you want.

Have you ever seen a bigger #pretzel? #Salzburg #Christkindlemarkt #gobigorgohome A photo posted by Wendy Perrin (@wendyperrin) on

It’s 5 o’clock somewhere. A photo posted by Wendy Perrin (@wendyperrin) on

 

6. Consider going over Thanksgiving weekend.

Thanksgiving is low season in Christmas-market cities (it’s not a holiday that’s celebrated in Europe), and some of the markets kick off the weekend before Thanksgiving. Last week, on our Danube cruise over Thanksgiving, we managed to hit 12 holiday markets in 6 different cities. If you’ve got kids, depending on their school schedule, Thanksgiving might be the only break that works for your itinerary, timing-wise.

 

7. See if there are low-season offers.

Some hotels run promotions throughout the period of the holiday markets (with the exception of New Year’s Eve, which is generally expensive).  Sometimes those offers are available only through a destination trip-planning specialist with clout. I booked my pre-cruise hotel stay in Budapest and my post-cruise hotel stay in Salzburg through my Trusted Travel Expert for Central Europe because she negotiates reduced rates that include tax, breakfast, and benefits (e.g., free upgrades based on availability). In Budapest, for instance, she had winter promo rates at the four-star Le Meridien (where I stayed, as one of the Christmas Markets is right downstairs). In Salzburg (a very expensive city), she put me in the five-star Hotel Sacher, where midweek rates in November and December start at $350 (again, that includes tax, breakfast, and certain amenities).

Aerial view of the @hotelsacher’s front desk. I’m not sure hotels get any more polished than this. #LHWtraveler A photo posted by Wendy Perrin (@wendyperrin) on

Look what you can expect in your room at @hotelsacher in #Salzburg. #seriouschocolate #INeedToTakeHomeASacherTorte

A photo posted by Wendy Perrin (@wendyperrin) on

 

Stay tuned for my advice for choosing the right Christmas Markets river cruise, based on last week’s Danube trip on Viking River Cruises (and the five other European river ships I’ve sailed on).

And if you’ve got any questions about travel to Europe during the holiday season, by all means ask below!

The view at Villa Miguel, Cabo, Mexico

How to Find the Perfect Vacation Rental: Tips for Your First Time, or any Time

I’m a villa rental convert.

I wanted to do something special for my most recent birthday. But with a three-year-old at home, a weekend jaunt to Paris was not in the cards: Long flights are exhausting, and hotel stays can be tough, forcing us all onto a toddler’s sleep schedule. Plus, I wanted some time with my girlfriends. How to make it work? I hatched a plan to rent a house so that we could all spend a few days together, somewhere a bit exotic but with all the comforts and conveniences of home. We ended up with wonderful memories from our trip to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico (which took place before Hurricane Odile hit the region in September; though the damage was significant, most hotels and villas have already reopened, including the place we stayed). Moreover, I came away with several valuable tips for first-time villa renters like myself:

Villa Miguel, Cabo, Mexico

My birthday dinner sunset at Villa Miguel

Know your destination’s neighborhoods—or find someone who does.
Cabo was a natural fit for our California-based group—a sunny respite for my friends mired in San Francisco’s summer fog—but I knew nothing about the area. So when I logged onto VRBO.com—a popular vacation-rental website—to start searching for a rental property, I was flummoxed by the options: VRBO’s 1,200 Cabo-area rentals are divided among Cabo San Lucas and the Los Cabos Corridor, then grouped by headings such as Costa Brava and Sirena Del Mar—all of which meant nothing to me. (I’d later discover that most of these are the names of neighborhoods or gated communities.) If I hadn’t finally thrown up my hands in defeat and called Julie Byrd, one of Wendy’s WOW List experts for villa vacations—Julie is the Cabo vacation-rental expert whom Wendy has been recommending to travelers for years—I might have booked a house in noisy, party-central Pedregal instead of in the family-friendly Cabo del Sol gated community.

Interestingly, many travelers who contact Julie Byrd with a particular villa in mind end up booking a different one based on her advice, most often because the location of the original house doesn’t fit their needs. If you plan to book a place without help from an expert like Julie—popular websites for this include VRBO, HomeAway, Craigslist, FlipKey, and TripAdvisor—make sure to familiarize yourself with the destination’s neighborhoods first. Sure, this is good advice for any trip, but it’s particularly important when renting a villa that may have been built originally as a private home without considering convenience for travelers.

Glean intel from online reviews.
These are full of essential information, especially if you read between the lines. You can figure out not just whether a villa is shabby or well-kept, but what kinds of travelers stay there and whether that beach you see in the photos is an easy stroll from the house or requires scrambling over a rocky path. (See these tips from an expert TripAdvisor reviewer on how to extract useful information from all those user reviews.)

Pool at Villa Cielito, Cabo, Mexico

The pool at Villa Cielito

Consider which hotel amenities are essential to your happiness.
Daily maid service? Wi-Fi? A full hot breakfast? Don’t skimp on what makes you happiest at a hotel. If making your bed and cooking your own breakfast each day doesn’t sound like vacation, know that there are staffed villas with every level of service—and corresponding price points. A different house we visited, Villa Cielito, had an indoor-outdoor living area with blockbuster ocean views that sparked destination-wedding fantasies among my girlfriends, but the bedrooms were generic and motel-like, without the knickknacks and local art that gave our own Villa Miguel a charming, homey atmosphere.

Dining and living room area at Villa Miguel, Cabo, Mexico

The dining and living room areas at Villa Miguel

Do some menu planning in advance.
I was initially attracted to the thought of cooking my own meals—until I realized the waste of time and ingredients involved for a trip as short as ours. Instead, I carried some granola and coffee from home, bought milk at a nearby grocery store, and spent the money we saved with our quick-and-easy breakfasts on a few splurge meals. Best of all was a catered dinner at our villa on the night of my birthday; my son never would have sat through a five-course meal at a restaurant, but here he was free to wander around with his toys while we dined at a relaxed pace.

Entry at Villa Miguel, Cabo, Mexico

Villa Miguel entryway

Stay a week.
I’d hesitate before renting a villa again for less than a week. Villas have a higher start-up cost than a hotel room but greater efficiency in the long run. It would have been more cost-effective to cook for ourselves if we could have bought and used a week’s worth of groceries. And the quirks that can make a private home so appealing—perusing the owner’s book collection, say—can take a while to discover. Similarly, don’t overextend yourself with activities. Julie Byrd advises clients to pre-book activities only in the extreme high season; travelers often discover that they want to spend most of their time relaxing at their villa, not snorkeling or mountain biking. And if you have a large group, it can take longer than you expect to get out the door, so don’t count on fitting in more than one event per day.

Choose your companions wisely…
Traveling with extended family or friends can make renting a villa cheaper than an equivalent hotel—especially if people are willing to share bedrooms, as we did—but make sure you’ll all travel well together, as there’s little privacy in a shared house. (If you’re doing the math, it’s only fair to compare a villa rental to a hotel suite because a standard room doesn’t offer space that you can share only with your fellow travelers, away from the hotel’s other guests.)

Beach entry pool at Villa Miguel, Cabo, Mexico

The beach-entry pool at Villa Miguel

…And cater to kids.
If our son’s not happy, we’re not happy; there’s nothing relaxing about a grumpy kid. An expert villa-rental agent (Wendy knows the best, so if you need a recommendation, ask her) will know which properties are best for little ones. If you’re going it alone, ask the villa owner not just whether the house is kid-friendly but what ages of kids have successfully stayed there; a two-year-old has much different needs than an eight-year-old. A property like ours, Villa Miguel, which was perfect for a toddler, would have been a death trap just a year ago (think wrought-iron railings and slippery stone staircases). Julie Byrd chose it for our group in part because of the beach-entry pool—which my son loved—and the easy access to restaurants at the two hotels in the same development.

Rent a car.
Except for city apartment rentals, in most cases you’ll need a car to explore the region around your villa. It’s a lot harder to call a taxi from your villa than it is to walk down to a hotel’s concierge and hire one. Make sure you’re comfortable driving in a foreign country.

Balcony at Villa Miguel, Cabo, Mexico

Balcony at Villa Miguel

Get a thorough walk-through of the property upon arrival.
I later regretted rushing our house manager through his 45-minute introductory tour. At the time, it felt like a waste on a 72-hour trip. Instead, we shivered through our late-night hangout sessions, not knowing how to adjust the living room air conditioner, and one of my friends was heartbroken to discover on our last morning that the glass doors to her balcony slid all the way back into the walls, opening up an entire corner of the room; had she known earlier, she would have slept with them open every night. Hotel rooms are built so that a new guest every night can intuitively find the light switch; private homes are not.

START PLANNING YOUR OWN VILLA VACATION

Disclosure: CaboVillas.com was kind enough to provide the writer’s three-night villa stay free of charge. In keeping with WendyPerrin.com standard practice, there was no request for or expectation of coverage on CaboVillas’ part, nor was anything promised on ours. You can read the signed agreement between WendyPerrin.com and CaboVillas here.

Jumby Bay Island Resort, Antigua

Where to Find Deals Between Thanksgiving and Christmas

‘Tis the season to snap up a great travel deal if you’re able to sneak away between now and December 18 or 19.  Every year, during the slow period that falls between the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays—a time when most people stay home—resorts in the Caribbean and Mexico offer significant deals in order to fill rooms. Sometimes you’ll see third, fourth, or fifth nights free, or even complimentary meals or airport transfers. The best way to find these deals is to ask an expert who has solid relationships with resorts in the area—that will translate to offers and perks that are not available to the general public.

For inspiration on resorts and hotels, check out our Insider’s Guide to Finding the Perfect Caribbean Resort. And then contact Ask Wendy for a WOW List–recommended Caribbean expert. You’ll be marked as a VIP and get a trip like this. For Mexico, reach out to WOW Lister Zachary Rabinor, who will know to treat you as a VIP when you use Wendy’s trip request form for him. You can learn more about him via the reviews of his trips written by other travelers.

If you can’t get away till Christmas/New Year’s, no worries: You’ll find availability, and a few nifty deals still, in Mexico, and here are some unexpected travel ideas for that time of year too. The next window for super deals is the second and third weeks of January.

Curtain Bluff Resort Antigua

Curtain Bluff, Antigua

elephants locking trunks safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

How to Take Better Safari Photos of Elephants, Lions, Zebra and More

On my first safari I was very disappointed with my wildlife photos. I missed shot after shot because I wasn’t prepared—it seemed like everything caught me by surprise. Several safaris later, one of the most important lessons I learned from shooting with professional wildlife photographers is that anticipating an animal’s behavior is key to creating attention-grabbing images. Knowing what’s likely to happen next gives you the time to think about your settings, compose your shot, and wait for the magic to happen. Even a few seconds of lead time can mean the difference between a photo that’s meh, and one that will make you proud.

To increase your chances of taking pictures you’ll love, look for these behavioral cues, have a little patience, and good luck!

Lions

Lions in the same pride are incredibly social creatures that like to play with, groom, and cuddle each other. Be on the lookout for lions joining other lions that are already sitting down.

lions rolling on ground safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Want an image that’s filled with drama? Photograph a lion when it yawns. When it tips its head back its teeth are exposed for a look that’s satisfyingly fierce.

lion yawning safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

When a lion starts to yawn over and over again it could mean that it’s about to stand up. Have your camera ready, you might catch a long, lanky stretch.

lion stretching safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

If you come across two lions that were mating but you just missed the deed, don’t fret. At the height of their courtship, lions make whoopee every 20 minutes over several days. They’ll give you plenty of opportunities to take a winning shot.

lions mating safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Cheetah

If there is a termite mound, fallen log or boulder in its path, nine times out of ten a cheetah will climb it. The smallest of the big cats, they like to use the height to search for prey or to see if there is any danger lurking nearby.

cheetah perching safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Zebra

For a zebra, rolling in the dirt is like a yawn: When one starts the others are sure to follow.

zebra group safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Zebras fighting, whether in play or in shows of dominance, make wonderful photographs. Look for two zebras chasing each other, forcefully nudging one another in the shoulder, or nipping each other on the muzzle for signs that one or both may rear up.

zebras playing safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Buffalo, Waterbuck, Wildebeest and Impala

Just like zebra, other safari animals including buffalo, waterbuck, wildebeest and impala, enjoy a little play fighting too. Add their impressive horns and you get quite a show.

impala locking horns safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Buffalo and giraffe

Buffalo and giraffe make it easy to capture a nice portrait. Both are highly curious and tend to stare, giving you a few extra seconds to compose your shot before they look away.

buffalo with bird safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Babies

You won’t be surprised to learn that babies love to play. Watch for inquisitive youngsters to chase after birds and each other—and, apparently, there’s nothing more amusing than a parent’s tail.

baby lion safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Elephants

Bull elephants, especially those in musth (a period when their testosterone levels are very high) like to show others who’s boss, even when they’re not. Pay attention when one male approaches another. Signs of aggression can be seen in raised tusks and an I’m-cooler-than-you shake of the head.

elephant shaking head safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

If you come across elephants milling about and kicking at the soil with their toenails, watch carefully, they may throw the loosened dirt on their bodies with their trunks in a behavior called “dusting,” which protects them from the sun and biting insects.

elephants dusting safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Like dusting, mud baths also protect elephants from the sun and insects. Catch an elephant near some mud and prepare for spraying, wallowing, and some great mud-caked faces.

elephants at water hole safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Elephants use their trunks to caress each other in greeting, to wrestle with while playing, and during displays of dominance. Be on the lookout for close-together elephants that are facing each other with their trunks raised, and you might be at the beginning of a great interaction.

elephants locking trunks safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Hippos

Hippos are grouchy creatures that prefer visitors to keep a distance. Whether it’s another hippo or a different animal entirely, hippos will give unwanted company an impressive open-mouthed warning that exposes their banana-sized teeth. If that doesn’t chase the culprit away, a lot of splashing or a fight may ensue.

hippo in water safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Little bee-eaters

Little bee-eaters are beautiful and quick as lightening. Trying to capture them in mid-air is not an easy feat. Thankfully they will return to an elevated perch again and again while hunting, affording you the opportunity to photograph them as they lift off and land, and not worry about trying to follow them in flight.

little bee eater bird safari Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Hyena

Hyenas are fascinating to watch at any time, but they’re especially photogenic when they eat. Be ready for “friendly” squabbles when they’re dining on a carcass.

hyena safari photo Photo by Susan Portnoy

Photo: Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler.

Be a smarter traveler: Use Wendy’s WOW List to plan your next trip. You can also follow her on Facebook and Twitter @wendyperrin, and sign up for her weekly newsletter to stay in the know.


 

Read more from Susan Portnoy at her own site, The Insatiable Traveler, and follow her at facebook.com/Insatiabletraveler and @susanportnoy.

Cliveden House Hotel London

London Heathrow Layover: Great Hotels for a Stopover at LHR

Question:

Hi Wendy,

We’ve got a 20-hour layover at Heathrow in spring 2015. We’ll be landing at 7 p.m. London time, and we fly out the next day at 3 p.m. We’ll be staying overnight and would love a good rest and possibly to see Windsor Castle. Do you think there would be time for this?  If not, what would you recommend near Heathrow for an enjoyable stay?

Thanks,

Taffy

Answer:

There are several historic manor-house hotels near Heathrow. I’d recommend you dine and sleep at one of them, then the next morning head to Windsor Castle—you might even stop to see Eton College and the Magna Carta Memorial as well—en route back to Heathrow.  That’s my kind of airport layover!

The expert on London Heathrow layovers is Jonathan Epstein of Celebrated Experiences, one of my Trusted Travel Experts for the United Kingdom. Jonathan lays out these options at various price points (with all rates inclusive of breakfast and taxes):

$$$$
Cliveden House: This estate dating from the 1600s is the former home of Lady Astor. You’ll feel like you’re sleeping in Downton Abbey. It’s got 376 acres of extraordinary formal gardens and woodlands, including a maze. If you book through Jonathan, you get a guaranteed upgrade at time of booking, as well as an historic tour of the house. Rates start at about $625/night.

$$$
Pennyhill Park. This has a world-class spa and a two-Michelin-star restaurant, Latymer, that’s considered one of the best dining experiences in the U.K. Rooms are large and full of character. Rates start at about $450/night.

$$
Great Fosters. This country house dating from 1550 was one of Elizabeth I’s hunting lodges and comes with exceptional Tudor gardens. Rates start at about $300/night, but if you book one of Jonathan’s preferred rooms in the Main House for about $400/night, you get a complimentary transfer to Heathrow.

$
The Runnymede-on-Thames. This is a contemporary riverfront four-star hotel with a spa and both an outdoor and indoor pool. You can even rent an electronic riverboat and drive yourself down the Thames. Rates start at about $200/night.

If you really want to get to Windsor Castle, I might suggest opting for Great Fosters. That’s because if you choose Cliveden you’ll want to spend your morning exploring the gardens, and at Pennyhill Park you’ll want to spend it in the spa. Wherever you stay, though, Jonathan can have a driver pick you up in the morning and take you to Windsor Castle and Eton College en route back to Heathrow. Beats staying at the airport Hilton or Sofitel, eh?

If you connect with Jonathan via the black CONTACT button below his photo on his Insider’s Guide here, you’ll be marked as a WendyPerrin.com V.I.P. traveler, and you’ll get the priority status and trip-monitoring service that go with that. Enjoy your layover!

Isla Mujeres Mexico

An Affordable Christmas Vacation Idea

Question:

Hi Wendy,

We are hoping to go away over the Christmas holiday. We’re willing to spend some money, but don’t want to spend $15K just for a week in Hawaii with lots of crowds, if you know what I mean. We were originally thinking of Mexico—or, someplace warm and sunny that’s a little less expensive then Hawaii but where we could still have some adventure. We are really open to any non-ski destination, as long as it’s affordable and fun. We live in San Francisco and have two young boys, 9 and 6. Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Nancy

Answer:

Nancy, if I were you I’d go back to thinking about Mexico. There’s still availability and good value to be found during the Christmas/New Year’s period in certain pockets of the country. I spoke to a few trusted Mexico travel specialists, and here are some of your options:

* Colonial Mexico. “Haciendas and resorts in the Colonial interior—like Merida, Oaxaca, Cuernavaca—offer a festive atmosphere, great food, cultural and archaeological sites, and great weather, and there is still availability,” says Ada King of Connoisseur’s Travel.

* San José del Cabo. “This year Cabo has more availability during Christmas week than over New Year’s, says Julie Byrd, one of my WOW List Trusted Travel Experts for the Caribbean. Nonetheless, there are many smaller villas available both weeks, as well as rooms available at the Hyatt Ziva Los Cabos over Christmas.”

* Oaxaca, Huatulco, Puerto Escondido, Ixtapa, Zihuatanejo, Puerto Vallarta. “Both the city of Oaxaca and the coast nearby—Huatulco, Puerto Escondido, and the coast in between—have space left and are a good value,” says Zach Rabinor, one of my Trusted Travel Experts for Mexico. “Ixtapa, Zihuatanejo and Puerto Vallarta also have availability and are exceptional value for coveted coastal destinations, including hotels and villas.” Zach adds that the following resorts in Mexico still have availability, “subject to dynamically changing conditions”: Fairmont Mayakoba, Las Alamandas, Viceroy Riviera Maya, Capella Ixtapa, Qinta Real Huatulco, Rosewood San Miguel Allende, and Viceroy Zihuatenejo.

Nancy, I could suggest a few other destinations that would be affordable, relatively warm over the winter holidays, and fun for both kids and adults simultaneously—San Diego and Charleston, South Carolina, both come to mind—but Mexico will be the sunniest. Zach Rabinor, who lives in Puerto Vallarta and has two kids of his own, is one of my Trusted Travel Experts on The WOW List, and I’d strongly suggest you contact him to learn current availability and the best pricing for your time frame, as well as to get his recommendations custom-tailored to your family’s needs. As a wendyperrin.com traveler, you’ll get VIP status with Zach, as well as my trip-monitoring service, as long as you contact him via this trip-request form.

Have a happy holiday, Nancy!

Deyrulzafaran Monastery Mardin Turkey

How to Stay Safe Traveling in Turkey

Dear Wendy,

My husband will be traveling to Istanbul and Cappadocia soon. With the news of air strikes surrounding Syria and Turkey, is it safe to travel there?

Thanks,

Alison

I’ve been getting this question a lot lately, what with the rise of ISIS and U.S. military action in Syria (Turkey’s neighbor to the southeast). When war is in the news, it can be scary for travelers. It might be easy to imagine that Turkey is a battlefield; we keep hearing about terrorists and an influx of refugees. But the reality for travelers to Turkey’s tourist areas is very different from what’s in the news.

As someone who has been to Turkey four times, including at times when many deemed it unsafe—I traveled the country on assignment for Condé Nast Traveler shortly after 9/11 and again in 2006 when the U.S. was at war with Iraq (in fact, I spent a week in southeastern Turkey within a few miles of the Syrian border)—I am here to tell you that Turkey is one of the safest places I know, filled with hospitable and friendly people.

There are so many countries that are viewed as precarious even though just one small pocket of the country is worrisome. It’s only when you’re on the ground there that you realize the extent to which life is uneventful and peaceful outside that pocket. That’s why the best way to get a sense of what Turkey is like for travelers right now is to talk to travelers who are there or have just come back. So, Alison, on your behalf, I’ve reached out to just such travelers. Here’s what they report:

What Turkey is Like for Travelers Right Now

Tom Martin of Minneapolis, Minnesota, had planned his trip to Turkey long before the current situation developed, and he started to have second thoughts over the summer. “As our departure date approached,” he said in an email, “the daily drumbeat of increasingly alarming stories in The New York Times became a matter of considerable concern and anxiety, to the point of causing me to question whether we should cancel the trip. In the end, we did not change our itinerary at all.”

When he landed in Turkey, Mr. Martin saw with his own eyes the difference between what he’d been imagining and what Istanbul is really like. “The impression from the news in the U.S. is of a somewhat exotic, traditional country that is as progressive as a secularized Muslim country can be, but that remains somewhat poor and undeveloped,” Mr. Martin said. “I was, quite frankly, in shock to find a modern, affluent, and incredibly clean cosmopolitan city in Istanbul, efficient, modern airports, and generally friendly, accommodating people who truly were secular and in many areas very wealthy.”

David Hornik of Palo Alto, California, who was traveling with his wife, Pamela, had a similar experience. “There was a massive gulf between our safety concerns heading to Turkey and our experience in the country itself,” Mr. Hornik said. “We felt safer in Turkey than we do in most cities in Europe.”

Davi Weisberg and her husband, Michael Harrington, also had some preconceived notions about their trip. “Before we left, my main fear was that there would be a great deal of hostility toward Americans,” Ms. Weisberg said. “I never felt that! The Turkish people are warm and welcoming—just lovely people.”

Added Mr. Harrington, “We were in Cappadocia when the U.S. bombing of Syria started. That day we toured a number of small towns in the area, and I looked carefully for any negative response from the locals. (I am over six feet and clearly American, so I do stand out in a small village). Everyone was very friendly and welcoming—I did not observe a single negative glance or frown.”

4 Steps to Help You Decide Whether to Go

When weighing the risks vs. the benefits of travel to any destination viewed as uncertain, these steps will help.

1. Put risks in perspective.

Sure, there have been bombings in Istanbul in the past, but there have also been bombings in London, Madrid, Boston, and New York. A terrorist incident can happen anywhere at any time. The risk that any one individual traveler will be harmed in a military action or terrorist incident is statistically tiny. Since 9/11 travelers have increasingly come to realize this—and it’s one reason why tourism to Turkey has not suffered despite last year’s incidents. Tourism is up six percent from last year, according to Başaran Ulusoy, the president of the Association of Turkish Travel Agencies, and by the end of this year Turkey expects to host a record 42 million tourists. In fact, Istanbul was named the world’s top destination by TripAdvisor this year, based on millions of travelers’ reviews.

2. Check governments’ travel alerts.

The U.S. State Department currently has no travel alert or travel warning in place for Turkey. Even when there is a State Department travel alert, I like to check other countries’ alerts to get a well-rounded picture—especially alerts from the U.K and Australian governments, which tend not to be as alarmist as the State Department can sometimes be. The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office’s travel advice for Turkey reminds us that 2.5 million British travelers visit Turkey every year and that “most visits are trouble-free.”

3. Look at a map.

The U.K. alert advises “against all travel to the towns of Akḉakale and Ceylanpinar and against all but essential travel to areas within 10km of Turkey’s border with Syria.” That border is more than 800 miles from Istanbul. You’re likely not going to be anywhere near Akḉakale or Ceylanpinar.

4. Have a Trusted Travel Expert on The WOW List strategize for you and arrange your trip.

The travelers quoted in this article were traveling under arrangements made by Turkey travel planner Earl Starkey, who lives in Istanbul and is one of my Trusted Travel Experts for Turkey. Here’s his Insider’s Guide to Istanbul, as well as his Insider’s Guide to Cappadocia. When Earl masterminds your trip—and his team of in-the-know fixers, expediters, English-speaking guides, and drivers go to work for you—you won’t have a care in the world when you’re on the ground in Turkey. I say that based on my own experience traveling with Earl and his team, as well as on feedback from dozens of travelers I’ve sent to him.  To connect with Earl, click on the black CONTACT button below his photo here.  (By connecting via that contact form, you get VIP status with the Trusted Travel Expert and you get entered into the WendyPerrin.com trip-monitoring service.)

6 Smart Precautions To Take When Traveling in Turkey

So you’ve decided to go? Here are smart steps you can take:

1. Enroll in the U.S. State Department’s Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP), so the Embassy can send you security updates and help you in an emergency. Here is further security advice from the U.S. Embassy in Ankara, which suggests that travelers “exercise extra caution in Turkey’s eastern and southeastern provinces.”

2. Choose a hotel that has CNN, BBC, and Al-Jazeera, so you can monitor the news in the mornings and evenings. Also make sure the hotel has reliable Internet access, so you can check local English-language news Web sites.

3. Avoid public gatherings or demonstrations. Don’t get caught in an angry mob. Avoid neighborhoods where emigrants from Syria live.

4. Don’t photograph government buildings, military installations, airports, train stations, policemen, guards, or anyone who doesn’t want his/her photo taken.

5. Carry your hotel’s business card—the one written in Turkish—so you can show it to non-English-speaking locals (such as a taxi driver) and get back to your hotel in an emergency.

6. Carry a cell phone programmed with emergency numbers (for the police, your hotel, and medical emergencies), as well as a mini-flashlight (in case you’re caught in the dark).

Halong Bay, Vietnam

How to Choose the Right Boat for Halong Bay, Vietnam

Question:

Your post about Billie Cohen joining WendyPerrin.com includes a picture of Ms. Cohen cruising Halong Bay. I’m wondering if she’d be willing to share her thoughts on that excursion and destination?  My wife and I (with my brother and sister-in-law) are planning our first visit to Vietnam—specifically, Hanoi and Halong Bay—this fall, and we’d be grateful for any recommendations on which ship to sail on and the best way to make reservations.  Thanks!

—Doug

Answer:

Hi Doug, Billie here. That’s a great question, and of course I’m happy to answer it. To get up-to-the-minute intel, I spoke with April Cole, two of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Southeast Asia.  We recommend working with an expert like April who can match you to the right boat for an extraordinary experience and put you way ahead of the crowd

Here’s their advice:

Think about the size of boat you want

There are all kinds of ships, from small and private to large and almost cruise-ship-style, and they range in price from backpacker to luxury. So you need to be aware of your budget. I prefer smaller boats; the service is better, and you get a more intimate experience.

Know which bay you’re going to

There are actually two bays; Halong is the bigger bay, and it’s where the majority of ships go. Bai Tu Long Bay is smaller, and for years no one had permission [from the government] to sail there. A few years ago, the government opened that bay to a specific company, Indochina Junk, and they run the Dragon’s Pearl boat and offer some private boats too. (They got permission by doing philanthropic work with the villages in that bay.)

The benefit of Bai Tu Long Bay is that you’re one of few boats in the bay, whereas Halong Bay can sometimes be like rush hour. The government regulates where the boats anchor, when they go out, etc.

However, the boats in Bai Tu Long Bay are not as luxurious as some of the ones in Halong Bay. I arrange private boats with your own guide and cook. Especially for families, it’s a great way for them to have their own space and activities and feel like they’re having a more intimate experience.

Consider whether you want to sail for one or two nights

With most companies, you go out on a big boat the first day, and on the next day, you get on a little boat that takes you around (while the big boat goes back and picks up new people), and then you come back to the big boat. So there’s no difference between your second night and the first group’s first night. It’s a little less personalized—you feel a bit shuttled around. The ships I recommend, through a company called Indochina Junk, do a dinner in a cave on the second night, which is pretty spectacular.

Ask questions

Once you board the boat, you’re stuck with it, so ask a lot of questions up front to make sure you’re purchasing the experience you want.

•What bay do you go to?

•How many cabins are on the ship (to determine size and intimacy of the experience)?

•Can you handle special meal requests?

•Do you provide a shared transfer or a private transfer? Usually, the company picks you up from your hotel for the three-hour drive from Hanoi and brings you back, and if you opt for a shared ride it’s a good way to bring the price down, but it can add time to your travels.

Talk to the crew

It’s easy to go sit on deck and watch the views go by—because it’s absolutely stunning—but if you want to have those intimate moments of experiencing the culture and the people, befriend the captain and crew.

Halong Bay, Vietnam

Rush hour in Halong Bay, Vietnam. Photo courtesy Andrea Ross.

 

Since you mentioned you’re also going to be in Hanoi, we picked April’s brain for insider tips for that city as well. Here’s what she had to say:

Choose a hotel in the Old Quarter

Picking a good hotel with a good location is one of the best things you can do. In Hanoi you want to be downtown in the Old Quarter, because that’s where the culture and the people come together.

Know what day is it

On Monday, everything is closed—all the museums. So make sure you don’t plan to tour the city tour on a Monday, because you’ll be disappointed.

Be respectful of the country’s history

For Americans, it’s good to keep in mind that Hanoi was the seat of Communism during the war, so a lot of what you’re seeing is propaganda. You might hear things that aren’t true—your guides have to say what they have to say. Don’t get offended; this is propaganda and you have to see it as that.

Embrace the city’s bustle

The cool thing about Hanoi is its balance between ancient and modern. You’ll turn one corner in the Old Quarter and see a woman carrying a traditional basket and she’ll make you soup right there out of her basket. And then you can walk a few blocks and you’re in the financial district and it’s a very capitalist society.

The other thing to remember in Vietnam, especially in Hanoi, is that people are tough. They’ve been through some wars; they can take care of themselves; they are feisty. A lot of our guests come from somewhere quieter, like Laos, and they are surprised. Hanoi is such a bustling city, and there is so much going on there. It’s loud, and busy, and you could get ripped off—and it’s important to come in knowing that’s what you’re going to see. But when you get to talk to people one on one, they’re just so nice. This is one of my favorite places.

Don’t miss

I really like the Temple of Literature, even thought it’s very touristy.

I also suggest getting out of Hanoi for a day. I can arrange tours that go to old villages where you can meet the village chief and have lunch. If you’re on your own, you can go to “handicraft” villages, where lacquer, woodworking, and sewing thrive. Just say to your guide: We want to get out of Hanoi and visit a village or go to a market. When you get there, go one step further and ask questions of the villagers. Everyone waits for those magical travel experiences to happen, but sometimes they need a push. [The villagers] are used to seeing a lot of tourists, but they’re not used to telling their stories—and people love to talk.

Don’t bother

People want to see Uncle Ho. But if the line is long, I tell my guests it’s not worth it. Instead, try the Ho Chi Minh Museum—it’s nearby and it’s fascinating. It’s a tribute to Ho Chi Minh, so for some Americans it’s off-putting, but it’s smaller and not as visited, so you don’t see a lot of tour groups there.

Be careful crossing the street

The city itself is fascinating, but you have to remember that crossing the street is dangerous. I suggest finding a little old lady—one who has the traditional baskets. Then literally stand next to her and cross when she crosses.

Eat street food

I encourage my guests to be adventurous—Hanoi has great street food. I like Banh Cuonziet in the Old Quarter, started by a woman name Le Thi Thanh Thuy. They cook traditional Vietnamese steamed rice balls out front on the street, and you choose what you want in it.

Banh Cuonziet restaurant in Hanoi's Old Quarter, Vietname

Banh Cuonziet restaurant in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Photo courtesy Andrea Ross.

 

Norwegian Jewel cruise ship in Juneau, Alaska

Exclusive Cruise Deal for WendyPerrin.com Readers

Many of you have been waiting for the launch of The Perrin Passport newsletter (thank you for your patience!), where we plan to feature exclusive travel deals from our Trusted Travel Experts. There’s one deal, though, that cannot wait for the newsletter’s debut (hopefully next month):

It’s a seven-day family cruise to Alaska on Norwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Jewel, and in addition to the reduced fare, it comes with onboard credits and extras. The deal was secured exclusively for WendyPerrin.com readers by Trusted Travel Expert Tom Baker, who is a pro when it comes to Alaska sailings; just check out all the cool tips in his Insider’s Guide.

Nobody is salivating over this deal more than my 12-year-old son, Charlie. He’s a big fan of Norwegian Cruise Line for our family vacations, and he explains his reasons in this article about the important things parents need to know before booking a family cruise.

Now, about that deal. Here are the details from Tom Baker:

 

7-Day Family Alaska Cruise Deal on Norwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Jewel

Sailing dates: Either June 27, 2015 or July 4, 2015

Itinerary:
Ports of Call    
Day 1   Seattle, Washington
Day 2   At Sea
Day 3   Ketchikan, Alaska
Day 4   Tracy Arm, Alaska
Day 4   Juneau, Alaska
Day 5   Skagway, Alaska
Day 6   At Sea
Day 7   Victoria, British Columbia
Day 8   Seattle, Washington

Rates*:

  • Balcony Cabin from: $1,609 per person
  • Mini Suite from: $1,889 per person
  • Penthouse Suite from: $3,683 per person
  • Haven Suite from: $5,243 per person

Extras include:

Suites in The Haven:

  • $500 onboard credit per suite
  • Soda package for all children (valued at $6.50 per guest per day)
  • Nickelodeon Pajama Jam for all children
  • Nickelodeon bedtime kit for kids 12 and under (valued at $39.95)
  • Behind-the-scenes tour for each adult (valued at $55 per guest)
  • Private Cocktail Reception (valued at $25 per guest)

Penthouse Suites (not in The Haven):

  • $350 onboard credit per suite
  • Unlimited dining package for adult guests 1 & 2 (valued at $119 per guest)
  • Soda package for all children (valued at $6.50 per guest per day)
  • Nickelodeon Pajama Jam for all children
  • Nickelodeon bedtime kit for all kids 12 and under (valued at $39.95)
  • Behind-the-scenes tour for each adult (valued at $55 per guest)
  • Private cocktail reception (valued at $25 per guest)

Balconies & Mini Suites:

  • $100 onboard credit per balcony cabin or mini suite
  • Dinner at Cagney’s with one bottle of house wine (valued at $30 per guest for Cagney’s, plus $40 for the wine)
  • Nickelodeon Pajama Jam for all children
  • Nickelodeon bedtime kit for all kids 12 and under (valued at $39.95)
  • Private cocktail reception (valued at $25 per guest)

How to book:
Contact Tom Baker of CruiseCenter. The best way to make sure Tom knows you’re a WendyPerrin.com traveler is to contact him via the black Contact button you’ll find on his Alaska Cruises Insider’s Guide (just below his photo). Or phone him at 1-800-592-3887.

 

The fine print:
*All rates are per person, based on double occupancy, and subject to availability at time of booking. Ask about low third- and fourth-person rates for family travel. Taxes and fees are: $197.69 per person additional for both departures. Additional charges may include non-discountable fees (port charges), taxes, airfare, air taxes, transfers, and surcharges. A $30 booking processing fee is additional. All cancellations are subject to a $50-per-booking cancellation fee from CruiseCenter, in addition to vendor cancellation penalties. All information, pricing, taxes, fees. and surcharges are subject to change without notice.

Spongebob and kids on Norwegian Jewel Cruise ship

Courtesy Norwegian Cruise Line

The Great Wall of China
Don't take off for China without checking your passport—it needs to be valid at least six months past your departure date.

The One Tool You Can’t Travel Without: A Valid Passport

Go check your passport right now. Go on, we’ll wait.

Do you have more than six months between the date of your next trip abroad and the expiry date? If not, then you are asking for trouble.

Everyone thinks that their passport is good for ten years, but that’s not really true. Your passport is good for about nine and a half. That’s because various countries require that you have anywhere from three to six months left on your passport in order to enter. If you don’t, they might not let you board the plane or get through immigration once you land.

Terry McCabe, a travel agent with Altour, reminded us of this essential travel tip just the other day. “A friend called me last night from the airport almost hysterical because she couldn’t get on the flight,” Terry said. “And just now I was on the phone with friends who traveled to France for a month; their daughter was not allowed on the flight back home because her passport was expiring in three months.” In both of the above cases, Terry had not been the one to book the airline tickets; if she had been, the travelers would have certainly been reminded to renew their passports.

Since the acceptable time window can vary widely from country to country, bookmark the passport section of the State Department’s website, where passport-validity rules are listed by destination. Your passport must be good for six months past your departure date if you want to visit China, Russia, and the U.A.E., for example, but if you’re spending time in the U.K. your passport only needs to be valid during the time you’re there. And then there are the 26 Schengen Borders Agreement countries: If you’re entering any one of these member states (which include Austria, Italy and Norway; see the whole list here) for short-term tourism or a business trip, then your passport must be valid for three months past your departure date. But once you enter one Schengen country, you won’t have to show your passport again when you cross the border into another.

If you’ve just checked your passport and realized that time is running out, the State Department site also has information on how to renew—it usually takes four to six weeks but can be rushed in three weeks, and in some cases eight days. My younger son’s passport expires next May, we’re flying to Europe this November, and you can bet I’m renewing it right now.

Theater of Dionysus in Athens Greece

A Day in Athens: How to Spend Your Cruise Shore Excursion

Today we kick off our series on cruise shore excursions, in which we curate your best options in port cities worldwide when you’ve got only eight to ten hours before your ship sets sail for the next port. We’ll be asking local experts in the world’s popular cruise ports to recommend efficient sightseeing itineraries and how to make the very best use of your time. Today we start with Athens, Greece, where we spoke to the experts at Context Travel, who have sussed out the best walks in the world’s cultural capitals.

The challenge with Athens: How to get the best feel for the cradle of Western civilization in just one day—and actually enjoy yourself. The solution: two suggestions—one, a day on your own; two, a guided walking seminar. Each takes about eight hours, including transit time from the port into the heart of Athens and back. Remember that from spring through autumn Athens can be very hot, so factor in rest time, as well as a recuperating lunch break.

 

Getting into Athens

The city of Athens is served by the port of Piraeus, itself a city, located about ten kilometers away—though due to urban sprawl the boundaries between the two are increasingly blurred. Piraeus is a huge port serving international traffic as well as many domestic services to the Greek islands. The Metro line number 1 (green line) runs regular, high-speed trains between Piraeus and the center of Athens, but depending on where in the port you are, it can take 20 to 30 minutes on foot to reach Piraeus Metro. A single ticket costs €1.40. Though you may need to allow about an hour to get into town on public transport, the journey itself is a historical adventure, especially for engineering enthusiasts. The Piraeus-Kifissia Electric Railway began life as Athens’ first steam-powered train service in 1869 (today the railway is fully modernized). Alternatively, a taxi can get you into central Athens in about 30-45 minutes, depending on traffic. Make sure you take a cab from an official taxi rank and that the driver uses his meter. Expect to pay €20 to 30 one-way.

 

Acropolis Museum exterior in Athens Greece

The beautifully renovated Acropolis Museum has a postmodern design that contrasts starkly with the ancient classicism above. Photo courtesy Context Travel

Excursion Option 1: A Day On Your Own

The obvious attraction is the mighty Acropolis, but bear in mind it is hugely crowded in cruise season (spring through fall), and there is a 20-minute hike to the top of Acropolis Hill before you can even join the back of the queue. One alternative is to skip that part entirely and head straight to the beautifully renovated (and air conditioned) Acropolis Museum, whose contemporary postmodernist lines contrast starkly with the ancient classicism above. You’ll need at least an hour to explore the layers of history within those walls, from the statues in the Archaic Gallery to the Parthenon frieze. Don’t miss the Gallery of the Slopes of the Acropolis, with its vertiginous transparent floor revealing the archaeological excavation below. The gallery is home to artifacts discovered in archaic sanctuaries on the side of Acropolis Hill, as well as from everyday life in Athens.

Afterward, rather than visit the main attraction, explore the many other impressive archaeological sites just a stone’s throw from the Acropolis Museum. Around the corner from the Museum, for example, lies the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which took 600 years to build. Though only fragments of the Temple remain, you can still feel the scale of the colossal structure if you stand beneath its towering columns. Sadly, the temple fell into disrepair after an invasion in the 3rd century A.D. Nevertheless, it’s still a breathtaking remnant—one that stands out all the more thanks to a relative lack of crowds.

Also nearby is the Theater of Dionysus, on the south slope of Acropolis Hill. Though it’s not in as good shape as the Acropolis’s other theater, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, this one is historically more important, having once played host to more than 17,000 spectators.

A combined ticket to all of the archaeological sites of Athens costs €12 and can be purchased at any of the entrances. Entry to a single site (excluding the Acropolis) is €2 (Agora €4).

When you’re finished with the historical sites, you should have time for a stroll through the winding streets of Plaka. Yes, it’s touristy, but Plaka still holds a special charm. Just behind the Theater of Dionysus you’ll find the diminutive district of Anafiotika, with its ancient abodes that seem to be carved into the hilly landscape. Like a cute little village from one of the Greek Islands, Anafiotika has been known to draw a crowd, but there’s an authenticity here that should excite even jaded travelers.

Getting there: Take the M1 metro to Monastiraki and walk (15–20 minutes) around the foot of Acropolis Hill to the Acropolis Museum.

Lunch and breaks: For a well-earned lunch, try Attikos Greek House, which offers that rare combination of spectacular Acropolis views and a credible smattering of locals. For a quick revitalizing break, head to Syntagma Square, where you can join locals in an iced coffee, also known as the Greek frappé. This typically consists of instant coffee with added cold water, whisked up to a foam with a couple of ice cubes dropped into the glass. No milk, but add as much sugar as you like. Pro tip: Syntagma Square has a metro station with its own archaeological collection of artifacts discovered during its construction.

 

Excursion Option 2: The Guided Day

When you’ve been to Athens before and are happy to avoid the heat and crowds and admire the archeological sites from afar, or you simply prefer to enjoy the city as the locals do, then make food the theme of your day.

Retsina wine barrels in Athens Greece

Retsina is a sweet Greek white wine made with the resin of a local pine species. Photo courtesy Context Travel

Food culture in Athens revolves around the busy Central Market, or Varvakios Agora. Here, nut vendors vie with butchers and fishmongers for the attention of passersby. On the surrounding streets, you’ll find honey, cheese, and pastry specialists who offer a fantastic array of snacks that demonstrate the intricacies and complexities of Greek cuisine. Again, take the M1 Metro from the cruise port to Monastiraki; you’ll emerge within a few steps of the action.

Foodies and culture vultures interested in an authentic taste of Athenian life can join an Athens chef and food journalist for an in-depth and immersive walking tour with Context Travel. Called Beyond Feta, the tour traces the development and character of Athenian cooking from farm to fork. One of the stops, for instance, is Dyporto Wine Shop, in a basement beneath the markets of Monastiraki Square. The shop has been owned by the same family for more than four generations. They produce and serve a special Greek wine called retsina—a sweet white made with the resin of a local pine species. Greek president Karolos Papoulias reportedly stopped by unannounced last year for a meal with some aides, and current owner Dmitri will proudly show you a photo of himself with Francis Ford Coppola. After sampling some of the wine, you’ll get to try a traditional Greek lunch in the cool wine cellar.

After the tour, you’ll likely still have time to explore the charming streets of Plaka (see above) before heading back to the port (allow one hour for your return). And don’t worry about getting lost: the Acropolis is always looming above as a way to orient yourself.

Getting there: For more info on this food tour and where to meet your guide, contact Context Travel.

 

Be a smarter traveler: Use Wendy’s WOW List to plan your next trip. You can also follow her on Facebook and Twitter @wendyperrin, and sign up for her weekly newsletter to stay in the know.

Positano, Italy

How to Plan the Ideal Italy Trip

Question:

Hi Wendy, I’m planning a trip to Italy in September 2015 for my 40th birthday with my husband. We have 12 days total and would love to see Florence, Pisa, Rome, and drive the Amalfi Coast. What would you recommend for the most time-efficient way to cover these areas? Thanks.

—Chris H.

Answer:

Chris, it depends on which cities you’re flying into and out of. If your airline ticket is roundtrip to Rome, for instance, then I’d give you different advice than if you can fly into Florence and out of Naples, or vice-versa. Some people would prefer a north-to-south itinerary, starting their trip in Florence—because that’s the portion that requires the most brainwork and footwork—and ending on the Amalfi Coast—because that’s the portion more conducive to relaxation and beachgoing. Others would prefer the opposite because Florence is a shopping extravaganza and you’ll have a lot less to pack around Italy if Florence comes at the end of your trip rather than the start.

And then there’s Andrea Grisdale, one of our Trusted Travel Experts for Italy, who is a master of efficiency who plans trips to Italy for thousands of travelers each year. She suggests starting in Naples and ending in Florence, based on airline schedules from the U.S., airport distances, and hotel check-in times. Here’s an itinerary that Andrea recommends for you:

 

Day 1: FLY TO NAPLES (OR ROME)

When booking your airline ticket, keep in mind that if you must connect in Rome to get to Naples, it may be faster to drive from the Rome airport to Naples than to fly that short distance.

Day 2: NAPLES TO POMPEII TO POSITANO

Have a driver pick you up at either the Rome or Naples airport and drive you to Pompeii so you can see the ancient city en route to the Amalfi Coast. Make Positano your base for the next three nights because of the selection of accommodations and because the town has beautiful bars, restaurants, shops, lanes/stairways, and hidden corners to explore. You’ll arrive in the mid-afternoon when your room is available for check-in. Spend your first late afternoon/evening exploring Positano.

 

Ravello, Italy

Ravello   Photo courtesy IC Bellagio

Day 3: THE AMALFI COAST (Read Andrea’s Insider’s Guide to the Amalfi Coast.)

If you want to drive yourself, rent a Smart Car locally, as they are easy to drive and park (parking is a challenge on the Amalfi Coast) and great when you must pass large vehicles on narrow curves. Having a driver would give you the time to explore more coastal villages and off-the-beaten-track corners and to enjoy fun local interaction. Your driver could drop you off in Ravello, and you could walk through the valleys and villages down into Amalfi and meet him there.

 

Capri City, Italy

Capri City   Photo courtesy IC Bellagio

Day 4: CAPRI

Head to Capri by public boat. Or you could hire a private boat, which would give you the option to swim in the area of the Li Galli Islands, enjoy a fun lunch in one of the cove restaurants in Nerano, and explore the many grottoes around the island of Capri before arriving in Marina Grande (where the public boats arrive). See Capri by taxi or take the funicular from port to Capri Town. Drink an aperitivo and people-watch in the piazza, and also see Ana Capri (more quiet and quaint) before returning to Positano.

 

Vatican City, Italy

Vatican City   Photo courtesy IC Bellagio

Days 5 – 7: ROME

Leaving Positano, you may wish to enjoy a typical pizza in Naples, or take in the city’s highlights via a walk through the backstreets with a local, before hopping onto the high-speed train to Rome (just 1 hour 10 minutes). Take a taxi to your hotel in the heart of Rome and spend three nights. In Rome Andrea can arrange Vespa and Segway tours, gelato-making lessons, cooking with a local chef in his beautiful apartment, seeing the wonders of the Vatican, exploring Underground Rome in Trastevere, etc.

Days 8 – 11: THROUGH TUSCANY TO FLORENCE

Take the high-speed train to Florence (just 1.5 hours) or hire a private driver/guide for the day so you can stop in towns between Rome and Florence and learn all about the Lazio and Tuscany regions en route. Stop for lunch in an off-the-beaten-track trattoria or with one of the Palio teams in Siena in their headquarters or, if wine is your thing, with a local family in their private vineyard. Arrive in Florence and spend four nights. In Florence you may follow in the footsteps of the Medicis, discover more about Michelangelo, take gastronomic walks and pop into specialty food stores, visit artisan studios, shop at the designer outlets (and hire a personal shopper to maximize your shopping time), and much more.

 

Lucca, Italy

Lucca   Photo courtesy IC Bellagio

Day 9 or 10: PISA AND LUCCA

Spend one of your Florence days with a driver/guide exploring nearby Pisa (for the Leaning Tower) and Lucca (a medieval walled town). If you wish to climb the Leaning Tower, be sure to research it in advance.

Day 12: FLY HOME

Florence’s airport is an easy 20-minute drive from the city.

 

So, Chris, that’s an efficient way to pack a whole lot of Italy into a trip with only ten nights on the ground. If you’d like Andrea to arrange your trip, customizing it to your needs and interests, using her team of drivers and guides, and booking it so that you get the special treatment and perks that her guests get at hotels and restaurants, of course she’d be happy to.

 

Buon viaggio … and happy birthday!

 

Costa Rica white faced capuchin monkey

Best Activities for Children in Costa Rica

Question:

Wendy,

My siblings and I are considering a family vacation to Costa Rica during spring break next April. There may be 8 to 12 children, ranging in age from 6 to 18, and we’d probably go for 7 to 8 nights.

There seems to be so much to do in Costa Rica. Do you have any suggestions that won’t break the bank for this animal- and nature-loving group?

—Priscilla O.

 

Answer:

Costa Rica is a popular destination for families, packed as it is with outdoor adventures that work for a variety of ages. Sadly, I haven’t made it there with my own kids yet. So, to get an answer for you, I turned to the Costa Rica experts from my WOW List, who have plenty of advice for large family groups. A first and foremost tip for this family in particular, but that will ring true for many travelers: Go to fewer places and spend more time in each place. Travel within Costa Rica is expensive—unless you take public transportation, which most Americans find too challenging. Furthermore, packing up and moving is a hassle. Twelve kids and, say, 6 to 8 adults: That’s 18 to 20 chances to leave something important in the last place you stayed. Also, the longer you stay in one place, the more you can get to know the locals.

Here are suggested activities for large family groups:

 

Costa Rica kids getting ready for white water rafting

Courtesy Costa Rica Expeditions

Whitewater rafting

Costa Rica is a narrow country just 10 degrees north of the equator, with a spine of mountains down the middle. This makes for world-class rivers for all ages and levels of difficulty, with dramatic tropical scenery and warm water. Rafting in general is a wonderful activity for kids. You learn teamwork, and how to overcome obstacles and challenges, yet there is very little danger. Costa Rica’s ideal conditions make it even better.

 

Looking for monkeys in the rainforest

Monkeys are hard enough to find in the forest that everyone will be excited when you see your first ones. There are four species of monkeys in Costa Rica: howler, spider, squirrel, and white-faced capuchin. Visitors who want to see monkeys and are willing to keep looking almost always see at least one species, though few visitors see all four. No matter how many species you see, learn about them all. What are the differences in their personalities, their families, their diets?

 

Surfing

Advances in surfboard design have made learning to surf much easier and safer than it used to be. Costa Rica has ideal waves for learning and good instructors all along the Pacific Coast. My favorite surf spots for kids are Nosara and Playa Grande. Another reason that Costa Rica is a great place to learn to surf is, as with rafting, warm water. There is something about friendly water that makes learning swift water sports a lot more pleasant.

 

Watching turtles nesting on the beaches of Tortuguero National Park

Visitors can actually stand a few feet from a 300-pound Green Sea Turtle while she lays 80 to 100 eggs, covers up her nest, perhaps digs a false nest to throw off predators, and, finally, after more than an hour, returns to the sea. No one ever forgets the experience. The season is June through October. During the peak months of July and August you have about an 85% chance of observing such nesting.

 

Helping local kids learn English

For children on vacation, nothing is as potentially valuable for them as consciously contributing to the places they visit. We have a program at Tortuga Lodge called the Word Adventure, in which guests help local kids learn English.

 

Zip-lining

Almost without fail, parents who are planning a family vacation want to include a zip line in their itinerary. There are a few things to keep in mind:

  • When determining which children can go, it’s more about weight than age. We use the guideline of minimum 70lbs but that is not always right, because the harness has to fit properly on the child. So if the harness doesn’t fit, they can’t do the zip line.
  • When kids are small and light, even when the harness fits properly, they usually will have to go in tandem with a guide. Parents often insist that they want to be the ones to zip with their child, but that’s not a good idea; their child is much safer with a guide.
  • As with any adventure sport, it’s a good idea to check a company’s safety record or their recommendations beforehand. (Neither is easy to do). Of the hundreds of zip lines available in Costa Rica, we only work with a handful. They were approved because they were built correctly and they are operated to safety standards by their guides.

 

Have a travel question for Wendy? Send it to her here.

 

 

Forbidden City Beijing China Red Door

Beijing Airport Layovers: The Best Way to Spend Them

An airport layover doesn’t have to mean that you’re stuck in the airport. In this series, local experts in the world’s most popular hub cities recommend sightseeing itineraries for every time frame.


 

The great thing about an airport layover in China is that the country now offers 72-hour, visa-free layovers so that you can get out of the airport and into a few major cities for short sightseeing stints. Since Beijing is where many travelers to Asia first touch down, we talked to Context Travel’s Beijing experts to find out how to make the most of a PEK airport layover, no matter how short it is. Turns out that even just a few hours can give you the chance to check out Beijing’s art scene, food offerings, or historic attractions.

 

The Basics

How to exit the airport: Beijing immigration has a lane set aside for 72-hour, visa-free stopovers. When you arrive at immigration, be sure to have the boarding pass from your first flight and an onward plane ticket to (or airline confirmation for) a third destination—not the place from which you just came.

Taxi: Beijing traffic is notoriously terrible, but gridlock isn’t too bad outside of rush hour (7:30–9am, 5–7pm), especially coming in from the airport. Expect to queue for a cab for 15 to 20 minutes; the ride to the city center can take 40 to 50 minutes. Expect to pay around ¥70–¥80 (approximately US$11–$13) outside of rush hour; during rush-hour, the ride can take up to 80 minutes and cost up to ¥150 or so (about US$25). For your return to the airport, if you’re staying overnight and in a quiet area, have your hotel call a cab ahead of time.

Train: The Airport Express runs from Beijing Capital Airport to downtown Dongzhimen station in about 20 to30 minutes. You can find a train schedule here. Tickets are ¥25 each, and you’ll need to hang on to them to swipe out of the station. If you have an overnight layover and your hotel is walking distance from Dongzhimen or from a line 2 or 13 metro station, this is a quick and inexpensive way to get downtown. If you have heavy baggage, suffer from claustrophobia, or are not staying near Dongzhimen or metro lines 2 and 13, you’d do better to take a cab—even in rush hour. If you take the train to Dongzhimen during rush hour, you are unlikely to be able to find a cab once you exit the station.

Private tour: Context Travel has introduced a Beijing layover package. The five-hour package includes a scholar-led walking tour of both the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square and lunch at a local restaurant with one of Context’s docents—all Beijing residents and experts in their academic fields. The price includes round-trip airport transfers, but you’ll still need five hours plus travel time to and from the airport. If your inbound flight is delayed, Context will do its best to adjust your tour schedule accordingly. Contact Context through Wendy’s WOW List to ensure VIP treatment and get the best possible experience.

What to do with your luggage: Stow your luggage either by checking it through with your airline company or leaving it at the Left Luggage service between T1 to T2 (¥20-¥50 per bag/day depending on the size).

 

If You Have a 6-Hour Layover

Save time and a headache by taking a cab to the 798 Art Zone. This pedestrian-only complex of former military factories-turned-galleries is only a 20-minute drive from the airport (about ¥25–¥30). For the return leg, be sure to leave yourself 20 extra minutes to flag down a cab on the main road outside the entrance to 798. Peruse the dozens of art studios and galleries, making sure to stop at Long March Space (4 Jiuxianqiao Lu; +86-10-5978-9768) and at Ullens Center (UCCA) (4 Jiuxianqiao Lu; +86-10-5780-0200) for its exhibitions and fantastic gift shop. Browse the books and grab a bite at Timezone 8 (4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, directly across from UCCA), tuck into vegetarian Chinese dishes at the delightful Buddha’s Bite (798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu 2 Jinxiangqiao Lu; 86-10-5762-6193), or kick back with a glass of wine in the courtyard of boutique hotel Grace Beijing (798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 706 Houjie; +86-10-6436-1818).

 

If You Have an 8-Hour Layover

Start off at the Temple of Heaven, which dates back to 1420. Surrounded by an enormous park, this is a good place to stretch your legs and get some fresh air. Particularly in the early morning, Temple of Heaven Park is a hive of activity, and you’ll see locals exercising and practicing tai chi. In the afternoons, you’ll find more locals dancing, singing, playing chess, and flying kites. From the Temple of Heaven, it’s an hour’s walk north to the Forbidden City (the subway takes almost as long; a cab will take 15 minutes). Spend an hour or so in the Forbidden City—more and you’re likely to fall asleep on one of the benches—and then get a bite to eat before heading back to the airport. The restaurants within walking distance of the Forbidden City are upscale; there’s continental cuisine at Capital M (3/F No. 2 Qianmen Street, Pedestrian Area; +86-10-6702-2727)—whose terrace view includes the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square—and at Brian McKenna @ The Courtyard (95 Donghuamen Daji; +86-10-6526-8883), where McKenna dabbles in molecular gastronomy. If you have enough time and energy, walk 30 minutes along high street Wangfujing to Peking Duck purveyor Da Dong (5/F, 88 Jinbaojie). It’d be a shame to pass through China without eating its national dish, and this could be your only chance.

 

If You Have a 9-Hour Layover or More

After the Forbidden City, head to Gulou (literally, the drum tower) and meander through Beijing’s hutongs. These ancient narrow alleyways, between courtyard houses, have been heavily gentrified over the last few years, saving them from certain destruction. Though they remain charmingly local, the hutongs are now dotted with boutiques, cafes, restaurants, bars, and even a boutique hotel—The Orchid (65 Baochao Hutong; +86-10-8404-4818). Go for dumplings at Mr. Shi’s(74 Baochao Hutong; +86-010-8405-0399), a craft beer at Great Leap Brewing (6 Doujiao Hutong; +86-10-5717-1399), and then retire to Zigzag (52 Wudaoying Hutong; +86-10-8404-0020) for a much-needed foot massage.

 

If You Don’t Have Time to Leave The Airport

Take advantage of the facilities at one of the nearby airport hotels. The Hilton (Terminal 3, 1 Sanjing Road; +86-10-6458-8888can be reached on foot. It has a spa, indoor pool, gym, and Chinese and Western restaurants—significantly better than the few options you’ll find inside the airport. The restaurants are open to the public, and if you make an appointment at the spa you’ll have access to the pool and gym too. Depending on availability, the Hilton also offers day packages that allow you to check into a room between flights. A less expensive alternative, though one that requires catching a shuttle, is the Ibis (No. 2 Tianzhu ; +86-10-6456-7799), which has rooms for around $30; it doesn’t offer day packages, but early check-in and late check-out are possible. The Ibis has few entertaining amenities, but there’s free Wi-Fi in the lobby and hourly airport shuttles (the roads right around the airport are traffic-heavy and not ideal for pedestrians).


 

More Layover Solutions:

Amsterdam Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

Barcelona Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

Great Paris Hotels for an Airport Layover at Charles de Gaulle

London Heathrow Layover: Great Hotels for a Stopover at LHR

Madrid Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

Tokyo Airport Layovers: The Best Way to Spend Them

 

Be a smarter traveler: Use Wendy’s WOW List to plan your next trip. You can also follow her on Facebook and Twitter @wendyperrin, and sign up for her weekly newsletter to stay in the know.

Little Dix Bay, Virgin Gorda

Now’s the Time to Look For Caribbean and Mexico Beach Resort Deals

It’s June—the month when resorts in the Caribbean and Mexico look ahead at their low-season bookings, from now until just before Christmas, and announce offers of up to 50% off to entice travelers during the summer and fall.  June is also when airlines lower their late-summer fares to these destinations, hoping to get travelers past their hurricane jitters and fill seats during a slow period.  Whether you’re seeking an August family trip before the kids go back to school (and if you are, you should read my post for TripAdvisor on  family beach vacations that won’t break the bank) or a romantic tropical getaway this fall, now’s the time when you can find substantial room availability at highly reduced prices.

While August through October is hurricane season, the chance of a hurricane hitting your destination while you’re there is pretty rare (and you can buy travel insurance that protects you). You’re far more likely just to see a few showers. As a native New Yorker who has been to Mexico and the Caribbean several times in August, September, and October, I am here to tell you that August heat and humidity are worse in midtown Manhattan than they are on breezy Caribbean beaches, and that a couple of rain storms shouldn’t spoil a vacation at a big resort where there’s plenty to do.

To help you pinpoint the best summer and fall values for your dollar right now, I reached out to Mexico travel specialist Zachary Rabinor, who lives in Puerto Vallarta and takes his wife and kids to resorts all over the country, and to our WOW List specialists for the Caribbean.  Here are a few of their picks at this moment:

1. Viceroy Zihuatanejo, 10 miles from the Ixtapa Zihuatanejo Airport, Mexico  

This is a resort for romance-seeking couples who want to luxuriate on a 600-foot stretch of beach.  It’s offering 50% off rates that start at $176 for a deluxe split-level room and include daily complimentary breakfast for two. Available through December 21, 2014.

Viceroy Zihuatanejo Mexico

The pool at the Viceroy Zihuatanejo in Mexico

2. Garza Blanca Preserve Resort & Spa, Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

A two-bedroom, 3,229-square-foot Panorama Suite here is a great option for families, says Rabinor: Each suite has a kitchen, dining room, living room, and private terrace with Jacuzzi. It’s virtually 50% off, as every second night costs only $1. The rate with the discount equates to $400 per night, and that includes all meals and snacks, non-motorized water sports, taxes, and gratuities. Book before July 1, 2014. Available until December 22.

3. Dream Sands Cancun Resort, Cancun, Mexico

This property doesn’t open till September 1st, but prices start at just $99 per person, per night, and kids stay and eat for free (that is, two kids staying in the same room as two paying adults). Given everything that’s included in your room rate (all gourmet meals, top-shelf spirits, and a supervised kids’ club open from 9 am till 10 pm), this deal seems like a gift to parents in need of a break and a few “date nights.”  Book by June 30 for stays from September 1, 2014 to April 10, 2015.

4. Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita, near Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

A 45-minute drive from Puerto Vallarta airport,  this property offers activities as varied as surfing, deep sea fishing, scuba diving, and horseback riding, and it’s got a supervised–and complimentary–children’s program, not to mention a lazy river for family floats in inner tubes.  The resort is offering a third night free (during certain blocks of time, and based on availability), with rooms starting at $507 per  night. Available until December 23.

Four Seasons Punta Mita golf course

The Four Seasons Punta Mita’s golf course

5. Rosewood Little Dix Bay, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

Located on a small  island of undeveloped white-sand beaches and secluded coves, this resort suits both couples in need of tropical tranquility and parents looking for a child-friendly vacation. There’s a complimentary Rose Buds supervised children’s program available from 9 am to 4 pm (closed Thursdays and Sundays). If you pay for five nights—starting at a rate of $415 per night—you get two additional nights free.  Available until December 18, 2014.

Little Dix Bay Beach Grill

The Beach Grill at Rosewood Little Dix Bay

6. The Ritz-Carlton Cancun, the Ritz-Carlton Aruba, and the Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas

If you stay seven nights at any of these properties, you receive 40% off your bill. Doubles start at $175 per night in Cancun (where the deal is valid through December 24), $269 per night in Aruba (valid through December 19), and $299 in St. Thomas (valid through December 22). Book before June 30, 2014.

Royal Mile in Edinburgh Scotland

Where to Eat and Drink in Edinburgh

Question:

I’m leaving for Scotland in a couple of weeks. Any recommendations for great restaurants and bars (for the over-30 crowd, please!) in Edinburgh? Thanks!

—Faby S.

Answer:

Faby, you’re in luck because Edinburgh has gone through a culinary boom lately.  It’s now got five Michelin-starred restaurants—which is pretty impressive for a city of only 500,000 people. On top of that, 2014 is Scotland’s Year of Homecoming, so you’ll find several food and drink festivals on tap.

To get an answer for you from someone who knows Edinburgh well, I reached out to Jonathan Epstein of Celebrated Experiences.  As a first-rate travel planner for Scotland, he’s there frequently, road-testing  not only the restaurants and pubs but also the hotels, car services, expert guides, etc. The secret to Edinburgh’s culinary success, he says, is the combination of innovative Scottish chefs and fresh local ingredients, from farm-to-table vegetables and fruit to excellent seafood, lamb, and Angus beef.  Many restaurants are so in-demand that it can be very  tough to get a table, but that’s where Jonathan wields his local connections on his travelers’ behalf, not only getting them reservations but getting them VIP’d.  “Food tastes better when people are being extra nice to you,” he points out.

Here are the spots he recommends: 

FINE DINING 

The Kitchin:  “Tom Kitchin is an amazing chef, and dinner there is not only delicious but educational. They hand out maps of Scotland to guests to show exactly where the food is sourced from. And, when we call ahead on behalf of travelers, Tom comes out and walks them through the menu, teaching about foraging and his local producers.”

Castle Terrace:  “A few years ago, Tom Kitchin opened a second fine-dining restaurant, and it quickly also earned a Michelin star.”

Restaurant Martin Wishart: “He was the first Michelin-starred chef in Edinburgh.  His restaurant opened in 1999 and received a star in 2001. He also has a contemporary brasserie called The Honours that our travelers love!”

Paul Kitching 21212: “A very fun and innovative restaurant by Chef Paul Kitching. Don’t come here if you need lots of options.  Do come here if you want a meal made to perfection with incredibly fresh ingredients.  The menu changes daily, and the name of the restaurant is based on the number of choices you have for each course.  You get a choice of two starters, two mains, and two desserts.  The midcourses…no choice!  Lunch is very accessible, at just $37 per person right now.”

The Pompadour:  “Two years ago, after a grand refurbishment, The Caledonian was rebranded as a Waldorf Astoria hotel.  The fantastic Galvin brothers, behind so much dining success in London, opened a brilliant restaurant there called Pompadour.”

MORE CASUAL OPTIONS

Wildfire: “Delicious, non-pretentious presentation of great steaks and seafood.”

Scotch Malt Whisky Society: “It’s a private club, but we can arrange entry into it. We also arrange special whisky tastings and even dinner with whisky pairings.”

Wedgewood: “It serves great Scottish cuisine, and you are never rushed because tables are not turned: You’ll be the only one enjoying that table the night you are there.”

The Indian Cavalry Club: “It’s the Best Indian food in Edinburgh, and remember, eating Indian is a must when in Britain.”

Fishers in the City: “Great buzz and atmosphere.  Popular with locals, and open late!”

Angels with Bagpipes: “For less formal nights out, this has been a favorite of ours for quite some time. It’s under new management, and we still hear great reviews from travelers.”

Cucina: “Should you get a craving for Italian food, this restaurant at G&V Royal Mile Hotel is the one to choose.”

FAVORITE PUBS

The Scran & Scallie: “Tom Kitchin’s gastro pub. Terrific local beers.”

The Devil’s Advocate: “Located in an old Victorian pump house in Old Town.”

Sandy Bell’s: “Our favorite for traditional local music.”

Deacon Brodies Tavern: “Best pub on The Royal Mile.”

Guildford Arms: “Beautiful, traditional pub.”

The Abbotsford: “Another beauty. We love the traditional Scottish ales, the curved bar, and the Victorian ceiling.”

The Black Cat: “A very atmospheric bar specializing in whisky.”

Café Royal Oyster Bar: “Gorgeous bar, with a nice selection of Scottish beers.  Tasty fresh mussels and oysters (and much more).”

 

Faby, if you can’t get to every one of these, you can always live vicariously by following Jonathan’s Instagram page.

 

 

Masada

Best Israel Shore Tours for an Eastern Mediterranean Cruise

Question:

Hi Wendy,

We are visiting Israel on a cruise for two days. The ship will stop in Haifa one day and in Ashdod the next. We’d like to leave the ship in Haifa, stay overnight in Jerusalem, then meet the ship again in Ashdod. But the overnight-tour options on offer from the cruise line and tour companies are very expensive. Do you have a solution—or a tour guide to recommend?

Thank you,

—Gene E.

Answer:

Gene, my mother-in-law had a similar predicament on her Israel cruise last year. And if the solution was good enough for her, I promise it’ll work for you too.  I connected her with Joe Yudin of Touring Israel. Joe, who lives in Israel and is a former paratrooper in the Israel Defense Forces and a Ph.D. candidate in Land of Israel Studies, started out as a tour guide and became so popular that he started his own business planning private customized tours. He now has a stable of some of Israel’s best tour guides.

Usually cruise ships visiting Israel spend one night in Haifa and one in Ashdod, allowing for three full days of exploring Israel. That allows you to spend one day in the Galilee, one in Jerusalem, and one in the Judean Desert at the Dead Sea. It sounds like you have only two days, though. Jerusalem will require one, so you have a choice: You can either leave the ship in Haifa, see the north of Israel with your guide, then head down to Jerusalem for the night and the next day, or you can zip from Haifa straight to Jerusalem, spend the day there and overnight, then do the Dead Sea the following day before catching up with the ship in Ashdod.

I reached out to Joe to get the best strategy and itinerary for you. First, here’s what he says about finding the right guide at the right price:

“I believe the best use of Gene’s time would be to hire a private guide with a six-passenger van and divide the costs among six passengers. For a day excursion, most private guides in Israel charge almost the same price for one passenger as for six.

The better guides with sterling reputations cost a bit more, but be wary of extras: Some guides will charge for “extra mileage” (for more than 200km per day) and/or for “overtime” (for more than 9 hours of touring per day). If you are on a cruise, chances are you will exceed both of these. There will also be an extra charge if the guide sleeps outside of his or her home.

Be prepared to spend between $750 and $1,000 per day for a private, expert, honest guide with his or her own vehicle. This rate does not include meals, entrance fees, or a tip for your guide. Split these costs between six people, and you have yourself an amazing deal. If you are traveling alone, you can always search for others willing to do your excursion using the cruise bulletin and message boards.

Check your guide’s credentials and make sure he/she is licensed by Israel’s Ministry of Tourism. Guides in Israel tend to be very knowledgeable; many have master’s degrees or even PhDs and were officers in the Israeli army. Check their credentials. Don’t get stuck with someone who barely speaks English or has a poor view of Israel itself (some guides are licensed by way of their clergy credentials or authorities outside of Israel).”

Second, here are itinerary options that Joe recommends for a day in the north of Israel. Of course, when you have a van and a private guide, your itinerary can be whatever you want:

* “Tour Israel’s north from a Jewish Perspective in Safed (Tzfat – where Kabbalah began, a city in the mountains 500 years old with exquisite synagogues from that time and home of a huge artist colony) and then either the Golan Heights (modern military battle sites, wine tasting, amazing views of Syria), or Tzippori (where the Mishna was written, amazing 2nd century mosaics and ruins) and Tel Megiddo (an ancient Israelite city maybe built by King Solomon). From here, back to the ship—or. better yet. straight to Jerusalem.

* Tour Israel from a Christian perspective, heading straight to Nazareth to tour the Cave of the Annunciation, the House of the Holy Family, and Mary’s Well, before heading to Cana, where Jesus turned water into wine, the Mt. of Beatitudes where Jesus gave his Sermon on the Mount, Capernaum and the House of St. Peter where Jesus based his Ministry, the 2,000 year old “Jesus Boat” and the Jordan River baptism site and if time permits, Armageddon (Tel Megiddo). From here, back to the ship—or, better yet, straight to Jerusalem.

* A fabulous tour for everyone is the The Carmel Coast: King Herod’s port city of Caesaria by the Sea, the Bahai Gardens in Haifa, and the Crusader capital of Acre. If you don’t want to visit Caesaria because your cruise has already stopped in Ephesus, the Roman ruin in Turkey that is similar, try the 19th- century mountaintop village of Zichron Yaakov or the grottos by the sea at Rosh Hanikra instead.”

Third, here’s what you need to know for your night, and the following day, in Jerusalem:

* “Reserve tickets ahead of time (your guide or tour operator can do it months in advance) for the Tower of David Night Spectacular.

* Book a table at one of Jerusalem’s fine restaurants, such as Macheneyehuda, Chakra, or Adom.

* Stroll along Ben Yehuda street or the “Old Train Station” (HaTachana in Hebrew) at night.

* The next morning, get an early start and hit the viewpoint of the Old City and the rest of Jerusalem from the top of the Mt. of Olives. Most tour buses from your ship in Ashdod will head here first, and half of them will get stuck in traffic due to the vendors’ harassment, small parking lot, and narrow streets. If you get a late start, skip the viewpoint and instead make it your last stop of the day.

* If you want to see Jerusalem from a Jewish perspective, tour the Old City Jewish Quarter in depth. This includes the Herodian Mansions, Hurva Synagogue, Cardo, Broad Wall, Four Sephardic Synagogues, Western Wall, City of David, Davidson Center and Western Wall and its Tunnels Tour. Add a museum at the end: Either the Israel Museum with the Dead Sea Scrolls or Yad Vashem Holocaust Museum & Memorial.

* If you want to see Jerusalem from a Christian perspective, don’t miss Garden of Gethsemene, the Bethesda Pools, Via Dolorosa (Way of the Cross), Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Garden Tomb, Arab Souk, Western Wall, Temple Mount, Mt Zion and its tombs, rooms & churches. Add one of the two museums mentioned above OR the City of David, which includes the Siloam Pools.

* If you just want an all-around tour, do a walking tour of all four quarters, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Western Wall, Temple Mount, City of David, and one of the museums.

As for the Dead Sea, should you opt for that on Day 2, Joe recommends “touring the Oasis of Ein Gedi, where King David hid from Saul. Make sure to go for a dip under the waterfall, to the Dead Sea for a float and lunch, and, of course, to King Herod’s desert mountaintop fortress of Masada.”

Gene, now that you’ve got the makings of a great couple of days in Israel, my guess is you’ll have no problem finding four more people from your cruise who would like to split the cost with you. In fact, I bet the rest of the ship will be jealous when you come back and tell them everything that you managed to accomplish in such a short time.

Read Joe’s Insider’s Guide to Israel and his Insider’s Guide to Jerusalem.

Bon Voyage!

 

 

 

Kings Court, a four-star hotel in Prague

Great Deals at Prague’s Top Hotels (Plus an Extra for WendyPerrin.com Travelers)

Question:

Hi Wendy,

I read your post on How to Get Five-Star Service Without Paying Five-Star Prices and Secrets to a Better Hotel Stay.  I’m traveling to Prague, in the Czech Republic, August 10 to 15.  Where’s the best place to stay location-wise?  We booked the Art Deco Imperial but can cancel.

Thanks,

—Paul

Answer:

Paul, since you’ve read Secrets to a Better Hotel Stay, you know that one key to getting five-star service without paying five-star prices is to book through a destination specialist who has negotiated a special deal with the hotel that involves both a lower rate and value-added benefits. One such destination specialist is Prague expert Gwen Kozlowski of Exeter International, a firm that specializes in travel to Eastern Europe. “For me, location is everything,” says Gwen, “especially in a city like Prague where taxis can be unscrupulous.” Here are Gwen’s suggestions and the specials she’s offering in August (Paul, you might compare these with what you’ve been offered at the Art Deco Imperial):

 

4-star picks:

Pachtuv Palace: “The four-star Mamaison Suite Hotel Pachtuv Palace wins for location. It’s in the Old Town, right at the Charles Bridge, and it oozes ambiance, as it’s located in a series of restored Baroque buildings. Some rooms come with Castle views.  Pachtuv Palace offers 15% off their standard rates when guests stay a minimum of two nights or 20% off when they stay a minimum of three nights.  This means a three-night stay in a Deluxe Room with Castle View in August could be as little as $670 including tax (not including breakfast).”

 

Kings Court:  “This also has a great location. It has more standardized rooms, which means it’s easier to get twins and connecting rooms.  They also have an Executive Lounge (snacks, drinks and private check-in) and a nice pool – a rarity in Prague. It’s a good option for families. Basically, anyone staying three nights or longer receives 15% off our already great rates.  This means that a three-night stay in August in an Executive Room (club access) can be as little as $800, including tax and breakfast as well as Executive Club benefits.”

 

5-star picks:

Kempinski Hybernska: “This is my top recommendation for those who want a five-star experience that is more boutique and less expensive than the Mandarin Oriental or the Four Seasons. It’s in a beautiful old Baroque building in the Old Town, and most rooms are oversized or suites. We have two promotions running in August: One is a fourth night free in a Grand Deluxe Room or higher.  The other is a guaranteed one-category upgrade at the time of booking. And the two promotions are combinable!  This means you can book a Grand Deluxe Room, get the fourth night free and get upgraded to a Junior Suite.  A four-night booking during August with this promotion would be $1,500 total, including tax and breakfast.”

 

Mandarin Oriental Prague: “This is the top pick for the Mala Strana area–a neighborhood of twisting and winding streets that makes you feel like you’re in some kind of fairytale, away from most of the backpackers that fill Old Town.  A Mandarin Oriental hotel may seem like a weird choice for a city like Prague, but it’s located in a renovated monastery, and the spa is to die for.  Rooms are spacious and, while they do have a serene Asian aesthetic, there are splashes of color and artwork to tie the hotel into the city atmosphere.  Starting June 1, the Mandarin is offering a fourth night free, even for their least expensive rooms.  This means that a four-night stay in August in a Superior Room would be $1,700, including tax and breakfast.”

 

Four Seasons Prague: “The crème-de-la-crème of hotels in Prague is offering a third night free in its Renaissance Rooms, which have an historic feel and have all just been renovated in the past couple of years. This means that a three-night stay here can be had for $1,825, including tax and breakfast.”

 

All rates quoted above are based on two adults sharing a room, and Exeter International travelers receive VIP treatment, which can mean anything from additional upgrades to welcome amenities in the rooms and more. Gwen is also throwing in, just for wendyperrin.com travelers, complimentary private car transportation from the airport to your hotel—”so you can arrive in Prague without having to navigate the unscrupulous taxi situation.”  Thanks, Gwen!

 

The Mamaison Hotel Pachtuv Palace Prague

The Mamaison Hotel Pachtuv Palace Prague

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

Get Exotic Luxury For Less in Southeast Asia

Question:

Hi Wendy,

My wife and I are interested in how to do exotic luxury travel on a reduced budget.  We’ve enjoyed a lot of far-flung adventures over the years, but we just bought a new house, so our pockets are a little emptier than usual. We are absolutely craving a trip to Southeast Asia and are trying to figure out how to pull something off.

Thanks,

—Adam

 

Answer:

You’re in luck, Adam, because Southeast Asia is one of those parts of the world where your dollar stretches far. It’s chock full of spoil-you-rotten hotels with relatively affordable rates, thanks to the combination of a low cost of labor and a culture that values the art of hospitality.  Your dollar buys a lot at the non-luxury level too: Skyscanner just named Vietnam, Bali, and Cambodia three of the world’s 10 best-value vacation spots of 2014.

One of my favorite Southeast Asia travel planners, Andrea Ross of Journeys Within Tour Company, is expert at orchestrating luxurious yet affordable itineraries (and she even writes her own Southeast Asia travel blog).  Here’s her advice–and how she does it:

1. Find seasonal promotions. “Right now Four Seasons is offering some amazing summer specials,” says Andrea. “If you stay three nights at their Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle in Chiang Rai, Thailand, you get two nights free at any of their other Thailand properties, including the Four Seasons Koh Samui beach property.  These deals won’t be available in high season, but if you don’t mind a little afternoon rain, or warmer temperatures, then going in shoulder season can be your best bet for getting luxury at a reasonable rate.”

2. Pepper your itinerary with boutique hotels that offer stellar service but also real value for the money. Andrea’s picks cost only $120 to $260 per night—hotels like Ariyasomvilla in Bangkok; 137 Pillars House in Chiang Mai, Thailand; Mekong Riverview in Luang Prabang, Laos; and Journeys Within Boutique Hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia. “These hotels are winning TripAdvisor awards and daily go above and beyond for their guests,” says Andrea.  “They also offer a window onto the history and culture of the locations they’re set in.”

3. Scrimp on your hotel in certain locations so you can splurge in locations where it matters more. “Splurge on your hotel at the beach, where you’re going to be spending more time in your room and using the hotel’s facilities. But when your schedule is packed and you’re going to be out and about—which is the case in Chiang Mai, which is a really fun town with lots of markets and restaurants and shopping—then luxury in your hotel isn’t necessary. In fact, often travelers in a luxury hotel will feel torn: They’ll want to get out and explore, but they’ll hesitate because they don’t want to leave the property.”

You can also read Andrea’s Insider’s Guide to Cambodia and her Insider’s Guide to Angkor Wat.

Who else has tips for getting exotic luxury on a budget in Southeast Asia?