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Paris with Perks: Insider’s Guide
A sunset view over the River Seine, Paris. Photo: Bruno Abatti/Unsplash
The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for France, Italy, England, and Switzerland: Jennifer Virgilio of Queen of Clubs.
Jennifer is currently based in London and has also called Rome and the south of France home—all the while building her outstanding connections to charming boutique hotels, hard-to-get-into restaurants, and expert private guides. She can make the line at the Eiffel Tower disappear, snag front-row seats for Fashion Week, or get you an after-hours tour of the Tower of London. Jennifer is equally deft at planning itineraries for families—she’s taken her own daughter all over Europe—as she is for high rollers (she’s a private-jet broker too). For those flying commercially, her VIP meet-and-greet starts at the aircraft door and includes fast-track entry through immigration to a waiting car.
Things to Do and See
Paris is a city of cultural riches and endless inspiration, with experiences that go far beyond headliners like the new and stunning renovations of Notre-Dame Cathedral and the Grand Palais.
Repairs returned Notre-Dame to its pre-fire splendor. Photo: Stephane de Sakutin, Getty
Some of Jennifer’s favorite sights and activities fly a bit below the radar—all the better to avoid the crowds while enjoying less widely known treasures. She can also suggest ways to tap into your creative side with an art or cheese-making workshop, or a private walking tour through Belleville, blending Jewish heritage with vibrant street art. There’s also a secret vineyard in Montmartre—yes, a vineyard right in Paris—and she can arrange for you to taste local wines in this hidden spot.
Montmartre’s charming streets are a maze of cobblestone lanes, steep staircases, and ivied buildings. Photo: Shutterstock
Most overrated experiences
Skip-the-line tickets for the Eiffel Tower don’t exist! In reality, you’ll still line up at security. If you really want to visit, try a behind-the-scenes Eiffel Tower tour. Go underground to see the hidden machinery, then toast with Champagne at the top.
Versailles’ crowds can feel overwhelming. For a quieter experience, Jennifer can get you access to the private royal apartments or stables, or send you to alternatives like Vaux-le-Vicomte and Chantilly—both breathtaking and far less busy.
Food tours in Le Marais are popular but crowded. Instead, discover culinary walks in Saint-Germain, Montmartre, or Pigalle. Jennifer can also arrange for you to stroll through a local market with a chef, then cook together Parisian-style in a private apartment.
Most underrated places
The Hôtel de la Marine is a little Versailles in the heart of the city. The iconic monument, located on Place de la Concorde, is a fine architectural ensemble that Ange-Jacques Gabriel, the king’s chief architect, designed in the 18th century. This magnificent mansion symbolizes the French art de vivre, and following a multi-year renovation, now offers tours—including private after-hours access.
Villa Windsor was the longtime residence of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Photo: Mansart Fondation
There’s much more in Paris that’s underrated: Villa Windsor, the storied residence once home to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, just completed its restoration and opened to the public. Opposite the Grand Palais, the Petit Palais is a Belle Époque architectural jewel-box near the Champs-Élysées with a free permanent collection showcasing art from antiquity to the early 20th century. The Musée Rodin is housed in the Hôtel Biron, an 18th-century mansion around the corner from Les Invalides, and its gardens are a peaceful place to wander among the famous sculptures. Palais Galliera is a museum of fashion history (with private fashion archive tours) housed in a Renaissance-inspired palace, located near the city’s most prestigious haute couture boutiques. Hôtel de la Païva is one of Paris’ most opulent private homes, renowned for its grand yellow onyx staircase, and is available for visits by request. Musée Jacquemart-André, a grand mansion filled with remarkable art and refined interiors, reopened in 2024 after major renovations.
Hidden gems
Just outside Paris, Rungis Market is the largest fresh food market in Europe, with 570 acres of meat, produce, cheese, and flowers. Those willing to get up before dawn are rewarded with the scent of baking bread and a bustling montage of restaurateurs and shopkeepers stocking up for the day.
A backstage tour of Opéra Garnier offers a peek inside costume workshops and the stories behind the space. Le Corbusier’s atelier is the creative studio of one of modern architecture’s most influential figures, located on the top two floors of the all-glass Molitor building designed by Corbusier, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A walk through the Richelieu Library is a walk through the history of France, with collections of the royal family and the national library established after the Revolution—plus a garden, cafe, and dramatic Oval Reading Room. Studio Frank Horvat is home to the photographer’s complete archives, which include his personal collection displayed in its original form, curated by his daughter, who hosts private visits by request.
How to spend a lazy Sunday
Sundays are made for slowing down in Paris. Start with a croissant and coffee, then a long lunch at Chez Janou (don’t miss the famous chocolate mousse) or Le Petit Célestin along the Seine. Wander the huge open-air Bastille Market and stroll the Coulée Verte, Paris’s elevated garden walkway. Families can head to the Louis Vuitton Foundation, a French art museum and cultural center, and to Jardin d’Acclimatation for art, rides, and greenery. Treasure hunters can lose themselves in the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, full of antiques, vintage finds, and North African bites. Close the day with a relaxed stop at the Champ de Mars, taking in the Eiffel Tower as the city winds down.
Cap off a day in the city by gazing up at the Eiffel Tower from the Champ de Mars. Photo: Pixabay/bogitw
Prime picnic spots
Parc Monceau is beloved by locals for its elegant lawns and people-watching, and the riverbanks of Île Saint-Louis are a quiet, scenic spot perfect for ice cream from Berthillon.
Best museums you haven’t heard of
The iconic Musée Carnavalet traces the history of Paris from antiquity to the 20th century, and access to the permanent collection is free. Located in the Marais, this is the ideal museum for families and history buffs.
Don’t miss the Pinault Collection at the Bourse de Commerce, where contemporary works are shown in a strikingly restored 18th-century building. Located five minutes from the Louvre in the heart of the city, the museum showcases François Pinault’s private collection as well as rotating exhibitions.
Where to Stay and What to Eat
Best-value splurge hotels
France has a unique designation, “five-star palace,” for hotels with the highest standard of service. These include the Hôtel de Crillon, Le Bristol, Peninsula, Shangri-La, Mandarin Oriental, and La Réserve, an intimate hotel and spa close to the U.S. embassy with impeccable service.
La Réserve is a five-star palace hotel with opulent rooms near the Champs-Élysées. Photo: La Réserve
For truly unique stays, Le Grand Contrôle is a royal experience—the only hotel within the gates of Versailles. Its 14 rooms and suites in the restored mansion are furnished in the original spirit of the estate, with exclusive access to its grounds.
Best bang-for-your-buck hotels
The best value is typically found at the four-star level, like the centrally located Grands Boulevard Experimental. There are also five-star boutique hotels that offer great value as well as charm and location, like the Nolinski, J.K. Place, Madame Rêve, Le Grand Mazarin, and Chateau des Fleurs.
Restaurants the locals love
Cloche is a charming bistro known for its excellent cocktails. Each table comes with crayons so you can sketch your own little masterpiece while you dine. Jaïs is known for Dover sole, caviar pasta with cecina, and warm madeleines. Gallopin is a classic brasserie with an old-school vibe that’s at its best on weekends—try to book the later seating. La Renommée has a modern French flavor with a hidden bar downstairs.
If everyone in your group is in the mood for something different, head to the Marché des Enfants Rouge, a food market with many different stalls serving cuisine from all over the world.
Dishes to try
Roast poultry is such a staple of French cooking that it should be its own food group, and is done especially well at Le Bon Saint Pourçain. Pan-seared steak—served with bordelaise sauce or au poivre—is best enjoyed with frites at a bistro like Au Moulin à Vent. The Parisian way to serve mussels is typically moules marinières in a white-wine broth with shallots, garlic, and parsley, served steaming hot with crusty baguette for dipping the sauce (and fries for moules frites), while the etiquette involves using your first mussel shell as tongs to extract subsequent mussels, discarding shells in a separate bowl.
You can’t leave Paris without having chocolate mousse; a local favorite spot is Chez Janou. And Japanese cheesecake is the French dish you didn’t know you needed, a melt-in-your-mouth experience distinct from western cheesecakes. Takumi is a popular Japanese bakery famous for its light, fluffy, soufflé-style cheesecakes with flavors like yuzu, matcha, chocolate, and classic vanilla.
Meals worth the splurge
Le Duc is a legendary seafood institution in Montparnasse, a true Paris classic adored for its minimalist, ultra-fresh preparations. At the Hôtel de Crillon, L’Écrin is a Michelin-starred restaurant, with just eight tables, that excels at pairing-focused dining: Choose a bottle from the extensive wine list, and the chef will build a meal around it. Kei is a Japanese/French fusion restaurant with three Michelin stars for its artful blend of flavors, exquisite plating, and simple but stunning way of showcasing high-quality ingredients. Guy Savoy at the Monnaie de Paris is literally the moneyed address for sophisticated haute cuisine, offering high-concept prix fixe and à la carte and menus. Its slate gray tones are brightened by high, wide windows overlooking the Louvre, Pont Neuf, and the Seine.
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Best Times to Go
Spring or early autumn: The weather is lovely, and school is still in session so the city is not overrun by visiting kids. In June, the days are longest, the temperature is pleasant, and the cherry blossoms are in bloom. And it’s when Parisians spend many an evening on the docks of the Île Saint-Louis with a musical instrument, a bottle of wine, and some playing cards. Plus, there are events galore, from Shakespeare en plein air in the Bois de Boulogne to the Paris Air Show.
Worst Times to Go
August. Many French companies and their employees go on holiday, and some restaurants, shops, and businesses close. Parisians are mostly gone, with only tourists left in the city.
Avoid late May to mid-July unless you book well in advance. If you plan a month or two out, you’ll find that three-star hotels are charging five-star prices for the few rooms still available, and the most experienced private guides are all fully booked.
Biggest Rookie Mistakes
Don’t wait until the last minute to book the Eiffel Tower, or you will waste time queuing for hours. Buy your tickets online ahead of time (they can sell out three months in advance in high season); arrive 20 minutes before your scheduled entrance for the security screening.
Avoid going to popular sites during prime time; look for before- or after-hours tours instead. Start your morning with a pre-opening visit to La Galerie Dior, exploring the design house’s archived elegance without the crowds. At the Arc de Triomphe, Jennifer can arrange a private, before-hours experience taking in panoramic views of the Champs-Élysées, Montmartre, and the Eiffel Tower as the city wakes up. Or enjoy an exclusive after-hours visit to Sainte-Chapelle, where you can admire its breathtaking stained-glass windows in complete serenity.
Can't-Miss Photo Ops
The Louvre at about 9pm, when it’s illuminated and there aren’t any crowds.
The Pont des Arts before sunset, to capture the Seine at twilight.
For Eiffel Tower shots, go to Pont de Bir-Hakeim at sunset, or take a stroll on Île aux Cygnes for a beautiful view of the tower from afar.
The Souvenirs
For something truly unique, Jennifer can arrange for you to create your own perfume with a perfumier or design your own clothing with a couturier. She also sometimes hires photographers to trail you while you tour the city, artfully blending family portraits with vacation snapshots.
Scams to Avoid
Some taxi drivers will take the longest route possible once they hear your accent. Negotiate the price before getting in, or ask your hotel for assistance.
Some vendors at the Saint-Ouen antiques market will also take advantage of foreigners. It’s a fun place to stroll, but if you are serious about buying and you don’t speak French, bring a guide who knows the sellers and what to pay.
Beware trickster thieves. They are known to ask you to sign a petition or play a game, then try to pick your pocket or snatch something from you.
Must-Have Apps
Citymapper is the best way to figure out how to get around efficiently by foot, bus, or Metro.
Météo Paris provides accurate weather conditions, which are always changing in Paris.
Bragging Rights
Jennifer can arrange for you to go behind the scenes at the Louvre with one of the museum’s art curators, visiting rooms not open to the public and learning in depth about the collection’s most famous and lesser-known works. She can also get you access to the mistresses’ apartments at Versailles—which are never open to the public—and book your own private lift to the second floor of the Eiffel Tower.
Airport Intel
Do not trust the unlicensed taxi drivers who stand inside the airport offering rides; go to the queue outside for a licensed taxi, or arrange a private transfer ahead of time. (Uber is another option, but not always a prompt one, and more expensive than a taxi.)
Jennifer’s VIP meet-and-greet service at CDG whisks you from the aircraft door, through immigration and customs, to your waiting car in a matter of minutes; there’s nothing better after a long flight.
Tipping Tip
Tips are normally included at meals; check your bill to be sure. Typical guidelines are 10% at restaurants and one or two euros in taxis. If you do tip, leave cash—even if you pay with a card—to be sure that it ends up in the right pocket.
Don't Forget to Pack
Rain is a possibility at any time of year, so always bring closed-toe shoes, layers, and an umbrella.
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