Tag Archives: Destination

Brook and family in Southeast Asia.

The ingredient that can make or break a trip

This one element can make all the difference

Hi everyone, Brook here, with a love letter to my favorite people in travel: private local guides. There are a lot of people who play a role in making a trip exceptional, but it’s these on-the-ground fixers who are the linchpin. They bring to life the words on the pages of your itinerary; pivot when weather, crowds, or unexpected events require a change of plans; and open a window to the local culture of the place you’re visiting. (These are not the tour guides you see holding flags and wielding microphones to keep a large group of travelers in line with their scripted dialogue!)

People who think that experienced travelers don’t need a local guide are doing themselves a disservice; it’s only from guides, after all, that I’ve learned about a million things in my travels—from local music in Tanzania to the right way to drink mate in Chile to wedding customs in Egypt. As I was reminded on my recent trip to Southeast Asia (where my private guide in Laos, above, shared her devotion to Buddhism as she showed me around the ancient temple at Vat Phou), my favorite moments with a guide usually happen in the interstitials: a conversation about family dynamics or pop culture that transpires while driving between sights or over a meal.

That’s why I love today’s traveler reviews. They show the variety of ways in which guides can enhance trips. Not only that, but every photo was shot by the traveler or his/her guide!

It’s not by chance that our Trusted Travel Experts work with the best guides in the business; each expert has spent considerable time testing—and continually training—local guides in their destination. When they match you to the right guide based on your interest in Portuguese wine or your kid’s fascination with Greek mythology, the result can be magical.

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Belize: “We had a phenomenal guide with Brainerd—very knowledgeable, warm, and just a lot of fun.”

empty white sand beach with a few green trees and light turquoise water in Belize

Belize’s beaches. Photo: Shutterstock

“We had a wonderful trip to Belize and Guatemala planned for us by Patricia. We flew from Newark to Belize City (a direct flight of less than five hours) and were picked up by our driver/guide Brainerd. Over the years, we’ve learned that a guide can make or break a trip. We had a phenomenal guide with Brainerd—very knowledgeable, warm, and just a lot of fun. He took loads of photos of us with my phone and his own. He later sent me the ones he took, which I very much appreciated because I make a photo book of all our trips.

We stayed first at the Lodge at Chaa Creek, a 400-acre eco-resort. Lots to do there: visit the butterfly farm, the natural history exhibit, the organic farm; canoe; hike; birdwatch; or sit with a delicious drink and admire the beautiful grounds. We used Chaa Creek as a base from which to explore the Maya ceremonial centers at nearby Xunantunich and Tikal in Guatemala.

The Naia Resort, right on the beach near Placencia, was lovely. We were very happy with our little bungalow, which was about 30 feet from the water. While we were there, Patricia arranged for us to spend time with a group of six Maya sisters who taught us how to cook on an open hearth, weave baskets, and extract the juice from sugar cane. It was fun! We really enjoyed our trip and met people who go to Belize year after year. We can understand why.” —Catherine Mathis

Read more reviews of Belize trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Morocco: “With Jamal and Majid at our sides, it felt like we were traveling with friends we had known for a lifetime.”

Travelers Craig and Stephanie Smith with their driver and guide having dinner on the rooftop terrace of Essaouira's Salut Maroc, Morocco.

Craig and Stephanie Smith had a farewell dinner on the rooftop terrace of Essaouira’s Salut Maroc with new friends: private guide Jamal and driver Majid.

“We just returned from an amazing two weeks in Morocco. We told Radia that what was most important to us was to have a stellar guide. We also told her that we have a strong interest in music and would like to incorporate learning about Gnawa music in some way. And we told her that our hotel preference was to stay in riads instead of international chain hotels.

From the moment we were met at the Casablanca airport by our private guide Jamal and private driver Majid, we knew that we were in for an incredible trip. They were both so hospitable! Jamal was incredibly knowledgeable about the culture and history of his country. He was very attentive to all of our needs, and he made us laugh a lot. He made sure that we saw everything on the itinerary and then some.

Majid drove us many miles in a huge loop, from Casablanca to Volubilis, to Fes, to Ifrane, to Merzouga, to Todra Valley, to Dades Gorge, to Skoura, to Marrakech, to Imlil, to Essaouira, and back to Marrakech. We always felt very safe with him behind the wheel, and he had a great sense of humor.

We stayed in beautiful riads with a very personal touch and enjoyed all kinds of delicious food. In addition to seeing many historic sites (mosques, synagogues, palaces, medinas, souks, tanneries), we also had adventures. We went for a camel ride and rode ATVs in the desert. We went for a hot air balloon ride outside of Marrakech. We went for a hike in the High Atlas Mountains from Imlil to Armed. One of our favorite activities was the sunset motorcycle sidecar tour of Marrakech, suggested by Radia. We felt like we were in a movie, riding through the Palmerie and the medina in comfortable, roomy, sidecars. A definite must-do!

Another highlight was an impromptu visit to the Todra Valley for lunch at Jamal’s family’s home. We were so honored and humbled to be invited into their home for lively conversation and a delicious lunch. And, to satisfy our musical interest, Radia organized a thoroughly enjoyable private Gnawa music workshop with master musician Najib Soudani in Essaouira.

With Jamal and Majid at our sides, it felt like we were traveling with friends we had known for a lifetime. The itinerary was wonderful, but they made the trip into an experience that we will cherish forever.” —Stephanie and Craig Smith

Read more reviews of Morocco trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

START A TRIP TO MOROCCO

Ireland: “We could never have understood the country without…he help of our guide for three days while there, Mark Murphy. His authenticity was palpable, in addition to being a consummate professional.”

sheep in a green field in Ireland

Sheep in a green field in Ireland. Photo: Shutterstock

“It was Jonathan’s strong suggestion that we include Northern Ireland in our itinerary instead of just Ireland, and we are glad that we did. Our experience in Northern Ireland was the soul of our trip, and we could never have understood the country without that experience and the help of our guide for three days while there, Mark Murphy. His authenticity was palpable, in addition to being a consummate professional.

For example, he not only took us through a small Catholic village to watch children learning the Irish sport of hurling on a field surrounded by Irish national flags, but then took out his equipment so we could all give the game a try on an adjacent field. Every experience with Mark was like that, including his lessons on tasting Irish Whiskey at Bushmills and getting me the opportunity to hold the great Northern Irish golfer Rory McIlroy’s PGA championship trophy at his home golf club in Belfast!

We also spent a morning at Tracey’s Farmhouse Kitchen, making (and eating) delicious soda bread, along with other delectables. Like all the folks we encountered, Tracey was an absolute delight, and we loved getting to go out to the countryside and spend some quality time with people who were so happy to share their lives with us.

We then went on to spend three days in Dublin, staying at a classic property called The Shelbourne. This gorgeous masterpiece offered impeccable service and a perfect location. One of the benefits of working through Jonathan are some small perks offered to you at each of the hotels, and we enjoyed oysters and Guinness in the beautiful lobby bar at the Shelbourne one early evening before heading to dinner.

Galway was our next stop, and we used that as the base for our exploration of the Connemara National Park and the Cliffs of Moher. Another absolute highlight of the trip is the Killary Sheep Farm. It’s on an absolutely beautiful fjord, and it’s fascinating to watch the sheepdogs in action and to participate in shearing the wool off the sheep. Tom, a third-generation proprietor, is eager to share his place, and it helps keep the lights on for these family businesses.

Our last stop was Dromoland Castle. At this point we had been on the move constantly for 10 days, and I think it was brilliant planning to let us decompress at this gorgeous castle for a few days before returning home.” —Michael Kelberman

Read more reviews of Ireland trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

START A TRIP TO IRELAND

Egypt: “She naturally struck the right balance between providing us enough information/details and also being helpful with avoiding crowds and finding photo opportunities.”

pyramids in egypt

Pyramids of Egypt. Photo: Jim Berkeley/Destinations & Adventures

My husband and I had such a fabulous time in Egypt, thanks to Jim’s and Arlene’s hard work and guidance. We chose Egypt as a milestone birthday trip for my husband, and the whole trip was truly special. On our first day in Cairo, we saw the Sphinx, Pyramids at Giza, Saqqara, and the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization. Eman was our Egyptologist in Cairo, and she was simply wonderful. She naturally struck the right balance between providing us enough information/details and also being helpful with avoiding crowds and finding photo opportunities. Plus, she was just pleasant to be around—it felt like touring Cairo with a family friend. Our first day was so spectacular that I was a little worried no other days would live up to Day 1 (I was wrong).

The highlight of our second day in Cairo was the introduction to the GEM. We got to see the grand staircase, which had only been open for maybe two days. It was Eman’s first time to see it, and she was beaming with pride as we went through it. Her excitement was truly contagious.

I loved our two nights in Aswan and REALLY loved the Old Cataract Hotel. For our WOW Moment, we had a sunset dinner on the Nile on a yacht. Abu Simbel completely blew me away. The dahabiya was a great experience. The crew and all other passengers sang “Happy Birthday” to my husband, and it was a lovely celebration. By the time we got to Luxor, I was worried I might be a little underwhelmed by remaining temples and tombs—that was the furthest from the truth. Queen Nefertari’s Tomb was just incredible—my favorite of all the tombs and temples we visited in the Luxor area. I just wish we’d had one more night at the Winter Palace.” —Maeghan Whitehead

Read more reviews of Egypt trips.Learn how to get your own WOW Moment. Or use our trip questionnaire (reached via the black button below) to start a WOW trip.

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Sicily: “Without the guide’s encouragement, I might not have climbed to the top of the cathedral and taken the outside walkway along the roof—the views were beautiful and more than worth the climb.”

The view of Sicily's western coastline and Monte Cofano seen from Erice.

Sicily’s western coastline and Monte Cofano, as seen from Erice. Photo: Traveler Nancy Footer

“I took the advice found in many reviews by previous clients and gave Marcello and Matteo free rein to design the itinerary, and I am so glad I did. I spent my first day in Palermo—such a bustling and exquisite city—seeing all the key historic sites, the waterfront, and the Capo Mercato with Giorgio, a thoroughly charming and expert guide. The following day I ventured out of Palermo with a driver and fantastic guide to visit Monreale Cathedral, a World Heritage Site and truly one of the most spectacular cathedrals I have ever visited. The guide made the visit so memorable: Her knowledge of history, architecture and design was magnificent, and I really appreciated the chance to linger while other visitors were clearly being hustled in and out. Without the guide’s encouragement, I might not have climbed to the top of the cathedral and taken the outside walkway along the roof—the views were beautiful and more than worth the climb.

We traveled next into the hills near Camporeale for a private tour, lunch and tasting at Porta del Vento winery. Marco, the owner, was a generous and engaging host, and I appreciated learning about his wines and his journey to becoming a vintner. It was a treat to see the harvest, learn about the winemaking process and then taste his award-winning wines.

And then, when I thought the day couldn’t get any better, I was surprised with a WOW Moment—a private dinner at the home of chef Gabriella Garajo. The meal was remarkable—contemporary versions of Sicilian classics made with local ingredients served at Gabriella’s dining table set with her family china and silver. It was a perfect finish to a most memorable day.

I spent the remainder of my week in Trapani, a gorgeous seaside city in western Sicily. From my base in Trapani, I spent several hours touring the archeological park at Segesta, including the temple and theater. Valentina, my guide, was so knowledgeable and personable—she really made the history and importance of the site come alive. I thoroughly enjoyed visiting Erice—on everyone’s must-see list in western Sicily, as it is situated 2,000 feet above Trapani with panoramic views in all directions. The cathedral, many churches, and castle are not to be missed. Marcello and Matteo arranged a tasting at Maria Grammatico’s famous pastry shop—a dream come true for this lover of sweets! My guide and I spent the remainder of the afternoon touring Trapani, even encountering a wedding at the cathedral.” —Nancy Footer

Read more reviews of Sicily trips. Learn how to get your own WOW Moment. Or use our trip questionnaire (reached via the black button below) to start a WOW trip.

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Morocco: “We felt completely safe with our guide, Anouar. We thoroughly enjoyed traveling with him. We loved our driver, Magid, who was fabulous too, with excellent driving skills!”

Medina Walls, Marrakech, Morocco

Medina Walls, Marrakech, Morocco. Photo: iStockPhoto

“My three friends and I went on the most magical trip to Morocco in October 2023. War had just broken out in Gaza, and we had some concerns about traveling, even though I was reassured by Radia and her team that we’d be safe. They were right. We were welcomed everywhere we went by warm and friendly hotel staff; and we felt completely safe with our guide, Anouar. We thoroughly enjoyed traveling with him. We loved our driver, Magid, who was fabulous too, with excellent driving skills! He was so attentive and caring. I wonder how many miles we put on that Mercedes! With Magid’s ever-present smile, he made us feel like we were really important to him.

Fes Cooking School was a hoot, and we had a blast making a delicious tagine meal we heartily consumed. The Dunes and the camp accommodations were spectacular. I kept pinching myself that we were really there atop camels traveling to our camp, and the next night we sat on a dune watching other guests come to the desert on their camels in front of a setting sun backdrop. Unbelievable beauty in the starkness of the dunes.

Another highlight was the hike in the High Atlas Mountains, with tea and a fabulous lunch on a rooftop surrounded by the mountains. The sidecar ride in Marrakech was icing on the cake. We’re going to the medina in this??? The itinerary going from Casablanca/Fes/Desert/Marrakech/Casablanca was perfect. It was completely magical and the weather was perfect. A trip of a lifetime! Go!” —Monica Geocaris

Read more reviews of Morocco trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

START A TRIP TO MOROCCO

Turkey: “Cenk is a phenomenal guide. He is charming, knowledgeable, fun and warm.”

rainbow umbrellas hover over a street of shops and restaurants in Istanbul turkey

Rainbow umbrellas hover over a street of shops and restaurants in Istanbul. Photo: Tim Baker

“The plan was to spend three days in Istanbul following a Ponant cruise in Greece. Midway through the cruise, the anti-Israel and antisemitism demonstrations in Europe caused us to reach out to Karen over our concerns for safety in Istanbul. She outlined what was happening in Turkey and emphasized that we would be okay and that it was business as usual.

Our three days were memorable. Cenk is a phenomenal guide. He is charming, knowledgeable, fun and warm. We enjoyed learning about Turkish history and were surprised at how little we knew. The tourist sites were crowded, but we were able to get in and out without waiting. The shops in the Grand Bazaar were fabulous, and our cooking class was fun and yummy—one of the best organized cooking classes we have taken.

We were worried about visiting Jewish sites, but there was no issue. The Bank Hotel was an excellent choice. A lovely oasis in a bustling city of 20 million people. Once again, another terrific travel specialist referral. This might be our 8th or 9th trip with your recommendations. Next trip to South Africa in the spring.” —Debbie Littman

Read more reviews of Turkey trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

START A TRIP TO TURKEY

Peru: “His English was impeccable, and his extensive network of contacts made it seem like he knew EVERYONE in Peru, which became a running joke.”

Wiñaywayna ruins along Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

It is magical to approach the ruins of Machu Picchu on foot via the Inca Trail. Photo: Southwind Adventures

“We just returned from a fabulous 10-day trip to Peru. Allie helped us find probably the best guide in all of Peru! Our guide, Nick, met us in Cusco and was with our group of four the entire trip. His English was impeccable, and his extensive network of contacts made it seem like he knew EVERYONE in Peru, which became a running joke. However, it became central to the success and ease of our trip, as he networked us to the front of lines for access to everything (including the line for buses up and back from Machu Picchu). To Allie’s credit, she had just returned from a trip to Peru a month before we left, had Nick as a tour guide, and personally selected him to be the guide for our trip, for which we cannot thank her enough!

We also had the opportunity to do the full-day experience at MIL, which we would highly recommend! As much as the food there is fabulous, the learning experience by hiking into the hills behind the restaurant with a knowledgeable local guide provided a fabulous addition to better understand the Peruvian culture and food presentation at MIL. It was a highlight of the trip and books up months in advance, so be sure to get reservations online as soon as trip dates are established!” —Julie Olson

Read more reviews of Peru trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Tanzania: “The guides were extremely knowledgeable regarding animal behavior, the local geography and horticulture, and regional history.”

Traveler gets close to a tusker on safari in Tanzania.

Diane Boas gets close to a tusker on safari in Tanzania.

“Katie on Cherri’s staff planned a perfect two-week itinerary for us in Tanzania. We stayed in a range of unique accommodations, from luxury camps to tents to a historic farm property. Each was beautiful, comfortable, served incredible, often organic and locally grown food and was managed by the most welcoming and gracious people that we have encountered on any trip.

Each day on safari, we saw a multitude of beautiful and fascinating animals, including the Big Five—lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo, and rhinoceros; the Little Five; and even what the guides call the Ugly Five (you’ll have to see for yourself to decide if you agree). We witnessed the wildebeest migration, when thousands of animals surge across the Mara river, as well as a multitude of other animals hunting, mating, grooming, sleeping and playing. Every day we witnessed something extraordinary.

The guides were extremely knowledgeable regarding animal behavior, the local geography and horticulture, and regional history. They were genuinely warm and accommodating, always ensuring that we could have a special experience while remaining within our individual comfort zones.” —Diane Boas

Read more reviews of Tanzania trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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“AbdulRahman was OUTSTANDING. He was born in the Medina and his family still lived there, and he was able to share stories of how Tangier has changed over the centuries.”

Our traveler's guide outside his family home in Tangier's Medina, Morocco.

Milinda Martin’s guide AbdulRahman outside his family home in Tangier’s Medina. Photo: Traveler Milinda Martin

“It had been 20 years since I had visited Morocco, and I have to say, the country is going through such a positive time. People are happy there! The government is building tons of affordable housing, redoing the waterfront areas, and spiffing up all the cities. It’s a good time to visit.

Thanks to Radia and her team, I was able to indulge my desire to learn more about the history of this country, especially the Berber culture, the invasion of the Arabs, and the long history of the Moors and Jews. Radia did not disappoint; all of my guides were experts and very willing to discuss the benefits and challenges of being such a rich land where everyone wants to be. My guide in Tangier, AbdulRahman, was OUTSTANDING. He was born in the Medina and his family still lived there, and he was able to share stories of how Tangier has changed over the centuries with all the invaders. He shared the local delicacies — mint tea and amazing cookies — with me, and we truly felt like friends by the time I moved on to Chefchaouen.

With Radia’s guidance, I visited Casablanca, and the amazing Hassan II mosque, with a Muslim scholar who could really immerse me in the religion, far beyond the 5 pillars. The trip ended in Marrakesh, where I had the most unique experience of learning how to make mosaics. This wasn’t a “tourist activity”; this was a visit to a gentleman’s workshop where we cut the tiles, arranged the mosaics and eventually plastered the mosaics into place. Radia provided a translator because the artist — having mastered this trade 40 years ago — did not speak English.

And I have to give a strong shout-out to my driver, Rachid. Throughout my tour, he was always on time, always kind, always conversational, and a great driver to boot. This is what I like about planning with Wendy Perrin: meeting the people and seeing life like a local. We visited the communal bakery and the hammam, two vital components of life for every Moroccan. I was able to go hiking in the Atlas Mountains, obtain early entry to the Majorelle Gardens, and have someone guide me through the mazes of the Medinas. The riad in Marrakesh was truly divine! Unlike other tours that whisk you here and there, in international hotels, where you never meet a local, Radia and her team ensured that I felt like a Moroccan from the very start.” —Milinda Martin

Read more reviews of Morocco trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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“Ahmed was a perfect tour guide. His knowledge is deep and constant. No matter what the topic or the discussion, he had the context and the history to enrich the conversation.”

Camels in Morocco's desert.

Camels in the Sahara. Photo: Yehuda Schmidt

“Before the glow begins to fade, we want to write about our amazing trip to Morocco! We visited Casablanca, Marrakech, Fes and the Sahara desert (October 5 to 16). Along the way we saw countless villages and interesting sites. We had requested unique hotels that spoke to the culture of Morocco. We loved the hotels chosen! The riads were beautiful, with internal courtyards rich with gardens and fountains. They were unique and comfortable. Different enough that we fully felt in vacation mode, but familiar enough that we could relax.

We had to slightly change our itinerary due to some physical limitations and due to the earthquake. Radia’s team helped make our changes seamless. My heart, though, is with Ahmed, our guide, and Younis, our driver. They were the golden core of our trip. Younis, a.k.a. Mr. Magic, was always waiting right where we needed him to be. He drove professionally and capably. I am a nervous passenger, but he was calm and respectful. He cared for us in a way I didn’t know was possible. Zero stress!

Ahmed was a perfect tour guide. His knowledge is deep and constant. No matter what the topic or the discussion, he had the context and the history to enrich the conversation. He ‘knew’ us and our interests of history and culture. He adjusted our schedule to fill our every need. For example, due to our situation, we could not hike the Atlas mountains, so he planned a magical day in the port city of Essaouira. It was one of our absolute favorite days. We loved the medina and the seaside.

I would also like to mention their attentiveness to me when I was not feeling well. They provided unparalleled care. I felt supported and cared for as if I was home. It was very touching. They gave me a day to recover while touring with my husband, but we returned to the spots that I was most sad to have missed.” —Tammy and Yehuda Schmidt

Read more reviews of Morocco trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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“A 4-hour back-and-forth drive after a day of touring and guiding us, just to make sure I had what I needed. You couldn’t have a more caring or kinder person than Uli.”

Neuschwanstein medieval castle in Germany, Bavaria land. Beautiful autumn scenery of Neuschwanstein ancient castle circled by colorful tree, amazing seasonal fall scene. Famous and popular landmark.

Neuschwanstein castle in Bavaria, Germany. Photo: Shutterstock

“We just returned home from a 16-day trip to Germany. The country is scenically gorgeous, the food is outstanding, as are the wines and beers, but the very best part of Germany are its people. The German people are polite, welcoming, and very helpful. They take pride in what they do, and in their country. It is sparkling clean and safe at all hours of the day and night. My husband and I saw so many young people out late at night having a wonderful time. Overall, it’s a country that has not forgotten its past, good and bad, and looks forward to the future with acceptance and love.

We did not plan this, but we happened to be in Germany during the celebration of the reunification of Germany, which is a very big deal to its population, and it involved a 4- to 5-day holiday for them, so there was a great deal of traffic, but also a great vibe of happy energy. I loved it!!

Our driver and guide, Ulrich, was absolutely amazing: an excellent driver, compassionate human being and a gentle giant of a man. I really messed up and left part of my CPAP equipment in the hotel we had last stayed at and did not realize it until I unpacked at the next destination, after we all had said good night to each other. When Uli found out, he drove back to the hotel while we were enjoying a leisurely dinner to retrieve it for me. A 4-hour back-and-forth drive after a day of touring and guiding us, just to make sure I had what I needed. You couldn’t have a more caring or kinder person than Uli.

We had an arrangement for us to visit Neuschwanstein Castle before it opened to the public. This involved pushing me in a wheelchair up a 20-degree incline of about 1,000 feet. Uli never complained or seemed to resent aiding me throughout the trip. Mr. Wonderful for sure!!

We thank Claudia for working with us to make this a most wonderful, perfect holiday. We also thank Wendy Perrin for putting us in touch with Claudia in the first place and for her very special WOW Moment luncheon overlooking the Rhine River. Truly a WOW experience that we will never forget.” —Lya Eisenberg

Read more reviews of Germany trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

START A TRIP TO GERMANY

“We expected a city tour, but Mike gave us much more than that: an introduction to the culture, the economy, and the ‘language’ of Newfoundland.”

Gros Morne Western Brook Pond fjord, Newfoundland

Gros Morne Western Brook Pond fjord, Newfoundland. Photo: Maxxim Vacations

Jill connected us with two local guides who were amazing. We learned so much from them. The first experience was with Mike Edmunds the day after we landed in St John’s. We expected a city tour, but Mike gave us much more than that: an introduction to the culture, the economy, and the ‘language’ of Newfoundland. This single experience set the context for our entire trip.

In Port Rexton a few days later, we had breakfast with Paul Dean, a geologist and former director of the Johnson Geo Center, followed by a guided hike of the Skerwink Trail. Imagine what an experience this was! Paul knows the geology—and the local plants, etc.—of Newfoundland and Labrador first-hand, and was extremely generous in sharing his knowledge with us.

There was so much to see and explore, our three weeks didn’t provide enough time. There are many small, local attractions that address the history, culture, and geology of the specific area that you are visiting. If you can spare the time, build in a few extra days at special locations to reorganize activities around bad weather. We also learned that Parks Canada guided hikes have a lot to offer; they are incredibly informative! We took two of these. We highly recommend that you take the guided hikes for the Tablelands and for Green Point….” Don and Marie Osdale

Read more reviews of Atlantic Canada trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

START A TRIP TO ATLANTIC CANADA

“We had many other activities that were also highlights. In Umbria, we went canyoning through a roaring mountain river, had an in-depth local cooking class, a gelato-making class, and went truffle hunting with the cutest, yet very talented dogs.”

Andrea Phillips

Andrea Phillips and family tasting their food after a private cooking class at Casa Gola in Umbria.

My family of four, with two teen girls, had a wonderful and action-packed trip to Italy in mid to late June covering Umbria, Tuscany, Florence, Bologna, Lake Como and Milan, planned with Maria. We stayed at hotels that were the perfect fit (like the one in Florence that had a rooftop pool to beat the heat!), had the best rooms and locations and such personal service, all due to Maria’s connections. Our transportation coordination around the country was flawless and that had to be a challenge with the many, many day trips we had planned and the 6 stops to transfer to! Maria’s local ground support, Cristina, was absolutely amazing throughout the entire trip and very accommodating to help out if we needed something altered. Plus she was our fabulous guide on our day trips in Umbria. The many other guides along the trip were also very friendly, passionate about sharing their knowledge, and did their best to keep our teenagers engaged on the tours. We had another family with three teenagers join us for parts of our trip and Maria and Cristina helped coordinate our joint stays, activities & reservations. Italy was busy with travelers while we were there, but I can honestly say that it did not affect our plans at all as Maria had it coordinated and timed out so perfectly.

This trip was also to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary and Maria had suggested two stops along the way that were very special. Wow, were they ever! Borgo Santo Pietro, a working farm & wellness resort in west Tuscany, and Grand Hotel Tremezzo, near Bellagio in Lake Como. Both resorts resembled something made out of a dream. Beautiful landscapes, amazing service, delicious food, gorgeous rooms, and so many amenities. At Borgo Santo Pietro, you had the feeling of being in a fairy garden wherever you went and around every corner, there was something new to discover. The staff was amazing and there was so much to explore and do. Bicycles & e-bikes, animal-tending sessions, exploring the gardens and farm, tennis courts, the spa & classes, eating the farm-to-table food in their lovely restaurants, all set in a serene oasis in the heart of Tuscany. We did not want to leave! The other amazing stop was the Hotel Grand Tremezzo, which is a standout feature on any Lake Como ferry ride with its striking architecture, gardens and in-lake floating pool in front, so actually staying there was quite a treat! The inner decor of the hotel and outer gardens were magical and so were the concierges and staff that were always ready to help. We enjoyed the spa, the many pools and casual restaurants and even had a private wakeboarding session one morning on the Lake! That is a memory that will never be forgotten and made this stop my girls’ favorite! Maria also arranged a great private boat tour to visit Bellagio and the famous villas of the lake with a lovely private guide, who had access to go inside the villas and educate us on all of the historic collections and stories. It was fascinating!

We were surprised with our WOW Moment early in this trip. We were given a special opportunity to be dressed up for the night in the Foligno Quintana traditional costumes for their festival later in the week. That was a unique experience and one that we would never have been able to arrange or even be allowed to do without Maria’s network in Italy. Thank you Wendy and Maria!

We had many other activities that were also highlights. In Umbria, we went canyoning through a roaring mountain river, had an in-depth local cooking class, a gelato-making class, and went truffle hunting with the cutest, yet very talented dogs. In Siena, we had lunch on the exact alleyway where the Mille Miglia Race of Classic Cars were driving through to enter the Il Campo (definitely because of Maria’s connections in Italy!). In Florence, we climbed the Brunelleschi Duomo, took a lively pizza-making class, saw the awe-inspiring David & the Uffizi Gallery, and took a relaxing Arno River boat ride. In Lucca, we rode bikes around the medieval walls where we crossed paths with a special parade of classic Fiat 500’s. In Bologna, we visited one of the world’s oldest universities, and in nearby Maranello, drove Ferraris through the streets of the town where they are made! In Milan, we had the privilege of being able to see the Last Supper, which was breathtaking. Needless to say, we were very busy on this trip!

It was a trip full of variety, which I had specifically asked Maria for when planning this vacation last fall, and she delivered! My family (and the friends who joined us) were thrilled with our stops and most of the planned activities. When we needed to change a pick-up time, tour length, or cancel a nice dinner reservation for something more causal, Maria’s team was more than happy to help out to make this a wonderful trip catered to us. When we head to Italy again, I will definitely have Maria help me plan our route around the country, but next time, we will stay longer than 3 nights at each stop to really experience the culture and have some more free time to explore on our own!” —Andrea Phillips

Read more reviews of Italy trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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“Their advice about transportation (private cars and high speed train), luxurious hotel choices, creative excursion ideas, and flawless execution of our busy itinerary delivered a once-in-a-lifetime family experience that the women of my family will always remember.”

Virginia Socolof

Virginia Socolof enjoying Gordes with three generations of women in her family.

“I recently returned from a FABULOUS trip to France with my mother, sister, and 17-year-old daughter. This was a real bucket list item for my mother—she is 80 and wanted to see both Monet’s gardens at Giverny and Provence. Philip and his team planned and executed a wonderful itinerary that perfectly satisfied my mother’s wishes—a special shout-out to Marion, who successfully navigated a few challenges in the planning process. I love the Axus app, which constantly updated our itinerary and provided a way for us to quickly communicate with Philip’s team. From the moment we landed in Paris until the day we flew out of Marseille, the drivers, excursions, and hotels exceeded our expectations. On the day we were going to Giverny our van had a flat tire in the middle of the countryside, and within 30 minutes my family was in an Uber called by our heroic guide Paul, headed to Giverny with our tickets and lunch reservation in hand. Paul had the tire repaired and met us after lunch for the rest of our trip to Auvers sur Oise, but we didn’t miss a thing. Giverny was the most eagerly anticipated moment of the trip for my mother, and what could have been a disappointing travel disaster is now one of our funniest trip memories, involving aggressive strawberry buyers and a tiny blue car. Cedric, our guide in Provence, was a gem—my whole family loved him and both his hilarious stories and historic insights. The Hotel du Pigeonnet in Aix was so very lovely, and Philip’s team also provided us with some wonderful restaurant recommendations and reservations. I began the planning process for this trip with concerns about how we could manage an experience that would make all of us happy and be comfortable enough for my mother, but Philip and his team pulled it off. Their advice about transportation (private cars and high speed train), luxurious hotel choices, creative excursion ideas, and flawless execution of our busy itinerary delivered a once-in-a-lifetime family experience that the women of my family will always remember. Merci beaucoup, Philip!” —Virginia Socolof

Read more reviews of France trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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“Both guides were wonderful at asking us if we wanted our photos taken—something I forget to ask guides to do. With Riza and Basri, I didn’t have to remember. They just did it.”

Catherine Mathis

Catherine Mathis and her husband at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. They were standing in Europe but could see Asia just behind them, across the Bosphorus.

“We recently returned from a trip to Turkey arranged for us by Earl. We had just five days to spend in Istanbul and Cappadocia. Earl helped us make the most of it. We went back and forth on the things we wanted to see, and Earl gave us good advice on the pros and cons of different sites and experiences.

We’ve found that a key factor in our enjoyment of a trip is the guide. And Riza, our guide in Istanbul, was fantastic—deeply knowledgeable, very energetic, passionate about his country, and fun! We also had an excellent guide in Cappadocia, Basri, who on the spur of the moment got us tickets to see the whirling dervishes and recommended a great restaurant for us. Both guides were wonderful at asking us if we wanted our photos taken—something I forget to ask guides to do. With Riza and Basri, I didn’t have to remember. They just did it.

For more than a decade, we’ve used Wendy’s recommendations for planning our trips, and we experienced our first WOW Moment on this vacation. We cruised the Bosphorus on a beautiful private yacht. Lovely. Just lovely.” —Catherine Mathis

Read more reviews of Turkey trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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“The guides were able to suggest modifications to our schedule, suggesting experiences we had not thought of, adjusting our schedule to be more efficient or carving out time for desires we had given up on…”

Candice Woodworth

View from Eilean Donan Castle in Scotland. Photo: Melvin Woodworth

“What we wanted most of all was a sensory experience of Great Britain, bringing to life a broad sampling of the different historical, regional and hierarchical offerings of the island. Our wish list included castles, abbeys, manor houses, local foods and gardens. We wanted to visit the big cities, small villages and rural farmlands. We wanted to minimize the barriers between us, as visitors, and the people of England and Scotland. By the time we had honed our wish list, Jonathan and his team had a real sense of who we were and what we wanted.

We divided our time around four major centers: London and surroundings; Bath and the Cotswolds; York and northeastern England; and Edinburgh and rural Scotland. In each of these locations we had one or more walking or driver guides who was a resident in the selected area and extremely well versed in the many facets of the location. The guides were able to suggest modifications to our schedule, suggesting experiences we had not thought of, adjusting our schedule to be more efficient or carving out time for desires we had given up on. Several of our favorite stops had not been on our list of desires, such as the Two Chairmen Pub, Castle Howard, Writer’s Museum in Old Town Edinburgh, up close and personal with Highland Coos, Eilean Donan Castle, Dalmally-Lochawe, Whitby-Goathland train station, a Tartan factory and Inverary Jail.

Our visceral learnings were all through our senses: the incredible accommodations that provided us a glimpse into a life of luxury and privilege—Roseate Hotel in London, The Manor House at Castle Combe, The Grand in York, Intercontinental-The George in Edinburgh, Inverlochy Castle and Cromlix; the peaceful and rich openness of the moors; the smell of salt air, sound of waves, beauty of dunes and beaches of the North Sea; the sights and sounds of Morris Men in Bampton; the timeless cry of bagpipes near the ancient walls of Edinburgh Castle; calm, clear waters of the many Lochs reflecting sky and mountains; and the feel of cobbles underfoot in the early morning and late at night walks.

Perhaps the greatest parts of our trip were the personal reflections of our guides. Each in his or her own way expressed a deep love of their land, their nation and their people. The social hierarchy was expressed in ways that reflected a candid acceptance and pride of their system. The history was related in ways that honored and respected each culture’s contribution to the current nation. Their gift of many stories was priceless.” —Candice and Melvin Woodworth

Read more reviews of England and Scotland trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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“He was not only a talented guide…but a kind, thoughtful and devout person who truly cared about our enjoyment, well-being and how we experienced Morocco.”

Camel trek through the Sahara Desert, Morocco.

Camel trek through the Sahara Desert, Morocco. Photo: Geri Krauss

“My husband and I recently returned from a trip to Morocco planned by Michael. The trip was superb. To begin with, we had a wonderful guide who stayed with us throughout the two-week-plus trip. He was not only a talented guide—sharing with us his deep knowledge of the country and its culture—but a kind, thoughtful and devout person who truly cared about our enjoyment, well-being and how we experienced Morocco.

The trip itself spanned much of the country—from the cities of Marrakesh and Fes to the Atlas mountains, the Sahara desert and the seashore. While we had to drive long distances to cover everything we wanted to see, the time passed quickly, as the scenery throughout the country was gorgeous and dramatic. The drivers were careful and great—accommodating many requests to stop for photos.

The hotels Michael recommended were each special in their own way (riads in the cities, kasbahs in the mountains and a tent in the desert) and the experiences he planned for us—cooking classes, dinner with a university professor to speak to us about the Sufis, walks through villages, markets and the old cities—were truly special. Wendy treated us to a WOW Moment in the desert—a camel ride up the dunes with hor d’oeuvres and champagne as the sun set—which was truly WOW!” —Geri Krauss

Read more reviews of Morocco trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

START A TRIP TO MOROCCO

“He was able to predict where we were most likely to see the rare cats—cheetahs and leopards—and we saw them all…”

Dan Friedman

Leopard laying on a tree branch. Photo: Dan Friedman

Dan arranged the trip of a lifetime for me, my wife, and our son and daughter-in-law. It was a private safari in Tanzania and then a few days in Rwanda and Nairobi. Every detail was taken care of—basically all we had to do was show up….

Dan selected great guides for our trip. In Tanzania our guide, Vienney, was with us the entire nine days we were there. He was a walking encyclopedia of knowledge about the animals and their habits. With his deep knowledge, he was able to predict where we were most likely to see the rare cats—cheetahs and leopards—and we saw them all. Often we were the only safari vehicle at the site. While in the Serengeti we witnessed the Great Migration, where thousands of wildebeest and zebras head east to areas with more water—an amazing sight.

From the Serengeti we flew to Rwanda, where Dan had arranged treks to see the mountain gorillas. The treks are arduous, but very worthwhile. It’s an effort, but once you encounter a gorilla family, the experience will amaze you. Their behavior is so much more human-like than I imagined. This is a breathtaking experience that you will never forget.” —Dan Friedman

Read more reviews of African Safari trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

START A TRIP TO AFRICAN SAFARI

 

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Brook in Machu Picchu, Peru with not a lot of people around.

We’re Just Back: Brook’s Tips for Peru, including Machu Picchu, Cusco, and Lima

The goal:
My main goal was to get the best experience of Machu Picchu. It’s a mythic site in most travelers’ imaginations, built centuries ago by exacting craftsmen in the unlikeliest of locations: set high atop a peak in the cloud forest, as the Andes descend toward the Amazon. I had visited 15 years earlier—and that experience surpassed even my exalted expectations of the legendary Incan redoubt—but this time I wanted to see how a new entry system, with prescribed paths through the ruins, affects travelers’ experience of this magical place.

The challenge:
Most of all, I wanted to avoid potential crowds. In the peak months of May, June, and July, up to 5,600 people can enter Machu Picchu per day. So I went in low season, when no more than 4,200 people can visit (and often far fewer do). There are now signposts and ropes that guide you along one of four routes based on your entry ticket; route #1 provides the longest and most complete experience of the site. The good news is that—in low season at least—I was able to walk freely along my route, stopping whenever I wanted to take photos or ask my local guide a question.

Low-profile ropes and signage guide visitors around the ruins of Machu Picchu.

Low-profile ropes and signage guide visitors around the ruins.

The highlight:
It’s awe-inspiring to wander through the ruins and imagine how the Incas managed to quarry, shape, and stack so much rock to build a city in such a vertiginous spot; their exquisite craftsmanship is evident in the carefully aligned stones, each laid on top of the others with no mortar.

Machu Picchu on a cloudy day with mountains in the background.

A quiet January day at Machu Picchu.

Smartest route:
There are two ways to get to Machu Picchu: on foot via the Inca Trail, or by train. (Technically, the train takes you to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of the mountain on which the ancient citadel sits, and from there you take a bus up a switch-backing road that dead-ends just outside the ruins.) My favorite approach to Machu Picchu captures the best of both worlds: Start on the train—with a seat on the left side, which gives you a view of the Urubamba River—then get off a few miles short of Aguas Calientes and hike the last portion of the Inca Trail. That way you arrive on foot via the Sun Gate, as the Incas once did, with the ruins spread out before you.

Smartest timing:
Afternoons are usually the quietest time of day to visit Machu Picchu, since day-trippers need to leave by early afternoon to catch their train back to Cusco or the Sacred Valley. The busiest hours are from 10am to 1pm. Permits to hike Huayna Picchu—the iconic peak in the background of every Machu Picchu photo you’ve ever seen, which makes for an exhilarating climb—are only available between 7am and 11am.

Machu Picchu on a cloudy day with mountains in the background.

The vertiginous Huayna Picchu towers over the ruins.

Best surprise:
The splendid weather I experienced even in January’s “rainy season.” During my eight days in Peru, it rained overnight several times, but on only three occasions were there showers during the day—and each time those were brief. The nighttime precipitation, along with the buildup of clouds during the day, made for spectacular vistas in my photos, and the farmers’ fields were a striking patchwork of purple, yellow, and white flowers. January is also a beautiful time to be in Lima: Instead of the fog that the city is infamous for, think summertime warmth with an Atlantic breeze to cut the humidity.

Brook biking along a seaside path in Lima, Peru.

Brook spent a sunny afternoon in Lima biking along a seaside path.

Worst surprise:
The Sacred Valley is far more built-up than on my last visit; land that was once most valuable when cultivated is now covered by suburban sprawl. A new international airport is under construction in Chinchero, above the valley. Based on what I saw of the progress so far (a graded dirt rectangle) I don’t expect the airport to open in 2025 as publicized—but when it finally does, I do expect this beautiful corner of the world to get even busier. Get there soon if you can.

Peru's Sacred Valley surrounded by mountains.

Parts of the Sacred Valley are already even more built up than this.

Coolest example of living history:
I spent an afternoon exploring Cusco’s historic center with Teo Allain Chambi, whose grandfather Martín Chambi was a renowned indigenous photographer of the early 20th century. Charmingly modest and yet so proud of his grandfather’s legacy, Teo carried with him a scrapbook of Martín’s street-scene photographs from the 1920s, guiding us to the same spots where his grandfather had composed those shots a century ago. What was most impressive was how little had changed: The buildings have been carefully preserved, many streets are still rough cobblestone, and graceful wooden balconies overlook flower-strewn plazas to this day.

Teo Allain Chambi at Plaza de Armas in Cusco showing photos of from the Plaza.
Teo Allain Chambi in Cusco's Plaza de Armas.
The Coricancha temple in Cusco from the outside on a cloudy day.
Spanish conquistadors made a habit of usurping sacred Incan sites; here, the Convent of Santo Domingo sits atop a wall of the Incas' Coricancha temple in Cusco.
Brook with raised hands in front of the Inca wall.
Brook offers a bit of scale beside the enormous stones in an Inca wall in Cusco.

 

Best hidden hiking trail:
On my last day in Peru, I wanted to stretch my legs before my overnight flight home. So I met up with a private guide who showed me a seldom-used hiking trail outside Cusco that took us past potato and fava-bean fields, through stands of hardy polylepis trees that somehow thrive as high as 16,000 feet above sea level, to the archaeological site of Inkilltambo. Here were sturdy terraces built many centuries ago, and a shrine carved out of rock and reserved for Inca elites. Apart from a nearby farmer working his crops with hand tools, we had the place to ourselves. It was a Sunday, and on the shorter, gentler path we took home, we greeted several cusqueño families heading out for a picnic.

A field full of pink potato flowers.
A field of blooming potato plants near Cusco.
Inkilltambo inn Cusco in the mountains of Peru.
The archaeological site of Inkilltambo, near Cusco.
Inkilltambo inn Cusco in the mountains of Peru.
Incan walls were built around natural limestone outcroppings at Inkilltambo.

 

Best museum you’ve never heard of:
There’s much more to Peru’s rich history than the Incas, and the Larco Museum in Lima is a worthy spot for delving deeper into the country’s past. Spend an afternoon admiring vessels, jewelry, and textiles from the Moche, Nazca, Wari, and other pre-Columbian societies, then segue to the bougainvillea-draped patio for dinner at the museum’s excellent restaurant.

People dininng at the Larco museum restaurant in Peru

Dine under a canopy of greenery and stars at the Larco Museum in Lima.

Local flavors to try:
Peru has earned enormous respect lately for its cuisine, but you don’t have to wait months for a reservation at Lima’s Central (considered by some to be the world’s best restaurant) to appreciate the country’s flavors. I tried delicious fruits like aguaymanto, cherimoya, and lucuma at a market, watched chefs bury potatoes and fava beans and ears of corn and guinea pigs for a traditional pachamanca lunch, and tasted local dishes like causa, ceviche, and tamales at Cumpa, a “creole tavern” with a hipster vibe in Lima that is only open for lunch, and where office workers and laborers in t-shirts compete for table space.

A variety of fruits at the Surquillo Market in Lima, Peru.
Did you know that the cacao fruit—the starting point for chocolate—looks like this?
A vendor dressing in colorful clothes at the Lima market in Peru selling variety of vegetables.
A vendor sells packets of vegetables for soup at a local market in Lima.
A woman shopping at the Surquillo market, in Lima.
Shopping at the Surquillo market in Lima.
The ingredients spread out on mats before they're placed underground for the cooking process.
Burying food between hot stones for a pachamanca lunch.
The start of the cooking process with all the food below the stalks.
The chef blesses our pachamanca lunch.
Brook’s lunch in Peru with a buffet full of dishes cooked underground.
The resulting, delicious buffet.
Over the top image of Tamale Cumpa on a black plate.
A tamale at Cumpa in Lima.
Over the top image of cauza cumpa on a blue plate.
Cauza at Cumpa in Lima.
Preparing pisco sours behind the bar at Lima's Miraflores Park hotel in Peru.
Pisco sours are practically the national drink of Peru. Here's Brook learning how to make one from the bartender at Lima's Miraflores Park hotel.

 

What to look for after dark:
I was fascinated to learn that the Incas saw images in the negative space of the night sky. Yes, they connected the dots between stars to draw constellations—but they also found creatures (a snake, a llama) hidden in the dark spots of the Milky Way. It’s a reminder of how we are all so similar, yet at the same time can see things so differently.

Language lesson:
Quechua, the language shared by many of Peru’s indigenous groups and still spoken by some today, has no word for “friend.” Instead, one of my private guides explained, Quechuans simply address each other as brother or sister—everyone is considered family. This small detail went a long way toward explaining the warm welcome that I felt throughout my time in Peru.

START YOUR OWN TRIP TO PERU

 

Transparency disclosure: Some experiences described here were provided to Brook for free, or at reduced rates, by local hotels and suppliers. In keeping with our standard practice, there was no promise of editorial coverage in exchange: Complimentary or discounted travel never influences our reportage. All of these experiences are accessible to every traveler who uses Wendy’s WOW questionnaire. Thanks to Wendy’s WOW system, you’ll get marked as a VIP traveler.

 

Be a smarter traveler: Sign up for Wendy’s weekly newsletter to stay in the know. Read real travelers’ reviews, then use the black CONTACT buttons on Wendy’s WOW List to reach out to the right local fixer for your trip.

Brook Wilkinson and her family enjoying hot springs with beautiful mountains in the background.

Traveling with Grandkids: Tips for a Successful Three-Generation Trip

A friend of mine took each of her grandchildren on a trip of their choice when they turned 13. One kid opted for an African safari; another wanted a posh spa week in Hawaii. While I love to travel with my grandson, Zeke, I have no desire to whisk him away, leaving his parents at home. For me, there is no better time to be had than exploring a wonderful new place with all three generations on hand. Seeing my daughter, Brook (WendyPerrin.com’s Executive Editor), and her husband, Ryan, parent Zeke is a privilege (not so fun, I suppose, if you aren’t in tune with your child’s parenting style).

The key to a great family trip is finding the sweet spot where everybody’s aspirations overlap. For us that means physical activity, glorious scenery and geology, and coming away with a new understanding of a foreign place.

And so on our latest trip together, we chose Iceland. All four of us crave outdoor experiences, which were on offer in abundance. We soaked in hot springs, summited a volcano, transited a glacier cave, and even eyeballed one of the youngest islands on Earth, born in a fiery eruption just 60 years ago. I am older than that island.

Susan and her family inside an ice cave in the Myrdalsjökull glacier, Iceland.
Zeke crosses a bridge inside an ice cave in the Myrdalsjökull glacier, Iceland.
Zeke crosses a bridge inside the cave. Photo: Ryan Damm
A little teamwork gets Brook across a stream near Hverager∂i, Iceland. Photo: Ryan Damm
Susan and Brook hike the path from Hellnar to Arnarstapi on the Snæfellsness Peninsula. Photo: Ryan Damm
Three generations hiking near Budir, on Iceland’s Snæfellsness Peninsula. Photo: Ryan Damm
To go off-road in Iceland, you need a specialized “super-jeep,” like this. Photo: Ryan Damm

 

On any trip, each family member must find their role. In Iceland, Brook, our resident travel expert, was our driver and trip leader. Ryan and Zeke roamed beaches, mountains and glaciers with cameras slung around their necks, trading lenses and composition tips; call them our staff photographers. Me, I pay the bills.

Zeke lines up a shot from atop the Eldfell volcano on Heimaey island, Iceland. Photo: Ryan Damm
Zeke photographing Kirkjufell, on the Snæfellsness Peninsula. Photo: Ryan Damm

 

Grandchildren are a joy to watch as their personalities and capabilities grow. Nowhere is this more evident than on a trip. Travel provides a backdrop that makes us ponder, even reconsider, our own customs and behavior. There is nothing more thrilling than seeing a grandchild connect with a new place, delving into life there and asking smart questions. (On a zodiac ride through a lagoon full of icebergs that had just calved off a glacier, it was Zeke who picked up on the particularly glassy sheen of some bits; those spots, our private guide explained, had recently been underwater and surfaced when the chunk’s center of gravity shifted.)

Susan and her family on a private zodiac in the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon, Iceland.

We spent 10 days in Iceland. We like to travel independently, so a self-drive trip was right up our alley. Perhaps our family is a little too type-A. In the early days of the trip, we were putting in 12-hour days, often hiking more than six miles. There was so much to see, and we are a no-stone-unturned group. I have to say, nobody complained. We made a return trip to the magnificent Seljalandsfoss and Gljufrabui waterfalls first thing in the morning to avoid the crowds that had thronged these cataracts in late afternoon the previous day. On the island of Heimaey, we weren’t satisfied with just viewing the world’s largest colony of puffins at the recommended hour of six a.m. when the birds take flight to spend the day fishing. That afternoon, we took a RIB boat around the Westman Islands to watch the plucky little birds dive for their lunch, then capped our puffin experience with a visit to the Beluga Whale Sanctuary, which provides a haven where injured puffins can live out their lives. I would love to revisit Heimaey in August, when the baby puffins, called pufflets, fledge. Thousands each year, diverted by artificial lighting, end up in town rather than at sea. The residents, and any tourists lucky enough to visit Heimaey at that time, race around with boxes, scooping up lost pufflets and releasing them at the ocean’s edge.

A path takes you behind the Seljalandsfoss waterfall on Iceland's southern coast. Photo: Ryan Damm
A puffin on Heimaey island, Iceland. Photo: Zeke Damm

 

A good three-generation trip involves compromise too. A horse lover from childhood, I couldn’t wait to ride an Icelandic horse, a breed so protected that no one is allowed to bring any horse in (or even return a horse that had previously left the country). Not everyone in our party shared my enthusiasm, but we all signed up for a trail ride at the Skálakot Manor Hotel (our favorite lodging of the entire trip). The Icelandic breed is compact and muscular, and five-gaited rather than the typical three. Farrah Fawcett would envy their flowing mane and tail. I was in heaven trying one of the extra gaits, a fast-walk/slow-trot called tolt.

Susan and family ride Icelandic horses through purple lupin. Photo: Ryan Damm
Skálakot Manor Hotel, a friendly farmhouse-turned-hotel in Iceland. Photo: Ryan Damm

 

In return, I agreed to an ear-splitting, bone-crunching ATV ride to a black-sand beach where we viewed the wreckage of a DC-3 that crash-landed in 1973. An ATV will never be my ride of choice, but the beach scene and the remote river gorge we traveled to afterward was worth every bump.

Some of Iceland’s most beautiful spots are best accessed via ATV. Photo: Ryan Damm

Any trip, however many generations you have on board, needs a good laugh. Another Icelandic black beach delivered. The Djúpalónssandur Beach of shiny ebony pebbles lies on an outcropping of land we referred to as the Snuffleupagus Peninsula (Icelandic is beautiful to listen to but impossible to pronounce; can you say Snæfellsness?). I don’t know whose idea it was to bury Brook in pebbles, but once that had been accomplished and photographed, of course Zeke had to be buried too.

Brook got buried in black pebbles on Djúpalónssandur Beach. Photo: Ryan Damm
Zeke got buried next. Photo: Ryan Damm

 

Witnessing a grandkid’s first is always worth the price of admission; sharing that first with your grandchild’s parents multiplies the thrill. Iceland’s classic tourist route, The Golden Circle, served up a tall one for Zeke. Generally, the sights were paler imitations of the mountains, canyons, and waterfalls we had seen on our far-flung driving itinerary. But this day became remarkable when Zeke spotted his first geyser. (Iceland is a country of hot springs, with enough geothermal energy to power the entire island with kilowatts to spare; the very word geyser is derived from Icelandic.) Luckily our geyser was a busy one, spouting every few minutes, because Zeke wasn’t satisfied that he’d gotten the right shot until it had erupted more than half a dozen times. Watching him check a photo, then reposition himself for the next one, was more memorable to me than the steamy water spurting into the air.

Zeke lines up his fourth shot of the Strokkur geyser in Iceland. Photo: Ryan Damm

Iceland was such a success that another cluster of volcanic islands is our number-one candidate for next year’s three-generation trip. The Azores seem on the brink of popularity, which fits our family motto: “Get there before the crowds.” That’s an important factor in our formula for success. For another family, exploring a vibrant city or seeing the artifacts of an ancient civilization might be the best choice. Here, as in all other family matters, communication is key—making sure everybody is enthusiastic before you book the trip.

Find more ideas and advice for multi-generational trips here. Want to make lifelong memories with your family in Iceland or elsewhere? Click the black button below to get our advice.

GET A PERSONALIZED TRIP RECOMMENDATION

 

Susan Crandell is a former Executive Editor of Travel + Leisure magazine. These days, when she’s not traveling with her grandson, you can usually find her building houses with her local chapter of Habitat for Humanity.

 

Be a smarter traveler: Sign up for Wendy’s weekly newsletter to stay in the know. Read real travelers’ reviews, then use the black CONTACT buttons on Wendy’s WOW List to reach out to the right local fixer for your trip.

Hangzhou west lake with Banyan tree and boat

What Travel in China is Like Right Now

Until the end of China’s zero-Covid policy last spring, it was difficult for travelers to enter the country. As soon as China opened back up, Trusted Travel Expert Mei Zhang booked flights to spend six weeks there, visiting her staff, family, and friends. We called Mei, now back home in California, to hear how her summer trip went. Here’s what travelers should know about China right now:

Prices are lower than you’d expect. Rates at luxury-brand hotels in China have long been cheaper than comparable properties elsewhere. Add to that the strong dollar and the absence of inflation in China, and the result is far less sticker shock than travelers are finding these days in Europe. For instance, rooms at the Mandarin Oriental Beijing are going for about $600 this fall, while rates at the brand’s sister hotel in Paris are usually more than $2,000 during the same period.

More flights are coming. Nonstops between the U.S. and China have been slow to resume, which has significantly increased fares. More flights are coming this fall, which will lower prices. We’ll update this article as airlines announce new routes.

The country’s high-speed train network is vast. With so many cities now connected by high-speed rail, travelers seldom have to endure domestic flights or long drives. Mei reports that the new trains are clean, spacious, and keep to the schedule; you can even order take-out food from a restaurant near the next station and it will be delivered right to your seat.

Dragonback Rice Terraces, Guangxi, China

Li-An Lodge sits atop the “Dragon’s Backbone” rice terraces in Guangxi Province, China. Photo: Li-An Lodge.

Many UNESCO World Heritage sites are becoming more accessible. Four new spots in China have been added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list in the last five years, bringing the country’s total to 56. A lot of these natural and cultural wonders are in remote locations, but an increasing number are accessible from the 4-star hotels that are expanding deeper into China’s countryside.

The Great Wall of China.

A savvy trip planner will send you to a quieter section of the Great Wall than the spots that most tourists visit. Photo: Shutterstock

Covid is an afterthought for most locals. Mei was surprised to find that masking was less prevalent in China than it was at home. Also gone are the widespread quarantines that made news when China was enforcing its zero-Covid policy. (These days, China and most other countries do not have specific isolation requirements for travelers with Covid.)

Most financial transactions now happen digitally. It’s hard to pay for anything in China these days with cash or even a credit card. Travelers must be comfortable adding their credit-card information to a mobile-payment app like WeChat or AliPay.

U.S. travelers are warmly welcomed by locals. Relations at the top levels of government may be frosty, but the geopolitical tension isn’t reflected in person-to-person interactions. Indeed, Mei believes travel is the best way to bridge the divide between the two countries. Her English-speaking guides—who have waited for more than three years now in hopes that travel would pick back up—are quick to go above and beyond for the first wave of travelers who are eager to visit China.

Trusted Travel Expert Mei Zhang in China's Yunnan Province in summer 2023.

Trusted Travel Expert Mei Zhang sussing out the situation in China’s Yunnan Province this summer. Photo: Marina Zhang

Mei will be back in China next spring, doing field-study work for the PhD she’s pursuing through Berkeley. She will be inviting a small group of travelers to meet her for three days of hiking in Yunnan Province (where Mei grew up), to hear how development in the region has affected the culture and environment. If you’re curious to see China right now with your own eyes—or even join Mei there next year—click on the button below.

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Andrea Phillips

Beat the Summer Heat in Europe with a Cool Trip Itinerary

Mediterranean Europe is in the grip of a record-breaking heat wave, and in some spots, tourist crowds, high humidity, or wildfires are making it worse. Fortunately, the itineraries designed for our travelers by WOW List experts are delivering relief. The trip reviews below show how your fellow travelers are beating the heat and provide great ideas for the rest of us, including:

  • Get out of the cities and onto (or into) the water. If there’s no sea or lake nearby, think higher elevations in the countryside.
  • Consider water-based transport between the locations on your itinerary. Take shaded, breezy boats, from ferries to private water taxis.
  • Include excursions on the water, from sailboat tours to river rafting.
  • Limit outdoor activities to the morning and evening.  Spend the hottest part of the day (the afternoons) in air-conditioned or underground places. Think modern indoor museums, gelato-making classes, tastings in wine cellars, crypts and catacombs.
  • Pick waterfront accommodations and rooms with breezy balconies. In inland cities, think hotels with rooftop pools.
  • Choose northern Europe over southern (as we’ve been advising since January). The Matterhorn, fjords, waterfalls, and snow-capped peaks hit the spot right about now.

Keep cool out there!

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Northern Italy and Lake Como: “We even had a private wakeboarding session one morning on the Lake!”

Andrea's daughter on her private wakeboarding session on Lake Como.

Claire Phillips wakeboarding on Lake Como, with Villa Balbianello in the background. Photo: Traveler Andrea Phillips

“My family of four, with two teen girls, had a wonderful and action-packed trip to Italy covering Umbria, Tuscany, Florence, Bologna, Lake Como and Milan, planned with Maria. We stayed at hotels that were the perfect fit (like the one in Florence that had a rooftop pool to beat the heat!), had the best rooms and locations and such personal service, all due to Maria’s connections. Italy was busy with travelers while we were there, but I can honestly say that it did not affect our plans at all, as Maria had it coordinated and timed out so perfectly.

Andrea's family enjoying the view of Florence from the rooftop pool.

Teens cooling off in the Grand Hotel Minerva’s rooftop pool in Florence, Italy. Photo: Andrea Phillips

This trip was also to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary, and Maria had suggested two stops along the way that were very special. Wow, were they ever! Borgo Santo Pietro, a working farm and wellness resort in west Tuscany, and Grand Hotel Tremezzo, near Bellagio in Lake Como. Both resorts resembled something out of a dream. Beautiful landscapes, amazing service, delicious food, gorgeous rooms, and so many amenities. At Borgo Santo Pietro, you had the feeling of being in a fairy garden wherever you went, and around every corner, there was something new to discover.

The other amazing stop was the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which is a standout feature on any Lake Como ferry ride, with its striking architecture, gardens and in-lake floating pool in front, so actually staying there was quite a treat! We enjoyed the spa, the many pools and casual restaurants, and even had a private wakeboarding session one morning on the Lake! That is a memory that will never be forgotten and made this stop my girls’ favorite! Maria also arranged a great private boat tour to visit Bellagio and the famous villas of the lake with a lovely private guide, who had access to go inside the villas and educate us on all of the historic collections and stories. It was fascinating!

Andrea Phillips

Andrea Phillips and family during their private cooking class in Umbria, Italy.

We had many other activities that were also highlights. In Umbria, we went canyoning through a roaring mountain river, had an in-depth local cooking class, a gelato-making class, and went truffle hunting with the cutest, yet very talented dogs. In Siena, we had lunch on the exact alleyway where the Mille Miglia Race of Classic Cars were driving through to enter Il Campo (definitely because of Maria’s connections in Italy!). In Lucca, we rode bikes around the medieval walls where we crossed paths with a special parade of classic Fiat 500s. In Bologna, we visited one of the world’s oldest universities, and in nearby Maranello, drove Ferraris through the streets of the town where they are made!” —Andrea Phillips

Read more reviews of Italy trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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The Turquoise Coast: “The stops were beautiful and the food amazing…”

Vanessa Hulme

Travelers Vanessa and Colin Hulme aboard their private yacht on Turkey’s Aegean coast.

Karen and her team planned an absolutely flawless vacation for my husband and me for 3 days in Istanbul and a 6-day cruise on a gulet along the Turkish coast. Our incredible guide in Istanbul, Sinan, not only showed us the tourist highlights, but out-of-the ordinary places we would never have found on our own. He also introduced us to real Turkish food, even going so far as booking a dinner reservation and pre-ordering a menu that suited us perfectly.

From Istanbul, we flew to Bodrum, and boarded our private gulet. We had never toured via a gulet, but it certainly exceeded our expectations. The crew was professional, accommodating, and went out of their way to make the trip special. The stops were beautiful and the food amazing.

We also had the pleasure of our most memorable WOW Moment in Datca, being the first and only guests at a hotel just prior to the opening! We had the facility to ourselves, were served a gourmet dinner that was overseen by the General Manager and Food Service Manager, and were offered a gorgeous suite for an overnight stay; to say this was very, very special is an understatement. (Thank you, Wendy, Karen and Mustafa.). Karen and those that work with her obviously have an in-depth knowledge of Turkey. This certainly made our trip both exciting and relaxing, both of which we requested.” —Vanessa Hulme

Read more reviews of Turkey trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Greece: “Our most favorite day of the trip was on a speed boat, where we traveled to the Blue Lagoon…”

Blue Lagoon in Tigani islet between Paros and Antiparos islands, Cyclades, Greece, with clear transparent turquoise waters.

Blue Lagoon in Tigani islet between Paros and Antiparos islands, Cyclades, Greece. Photo: Shutterstock

“We had one of our best family trips in years, thanks to Irene. We started in Athens, where Irene booked us in a spacious, modern ‘apartment’ at The Dolli, which had excellent service and food. The rooftop pool overlooking the Acropolis was a huge plus given the heat, and the day trip to the ruins at Delphi was a family favorite.

Then it was on to Paros, where we enjoyed the beautiful accommodations and staff attention at the Minois Hotel. Our teens loved the amazing outdoor space with our own small pool, as well as the resident cats. Our most favorite day of the trip was on a speed boat, where we traveled to the Blue Lagoon, went cliff jumping, and visited remote beaches in Antiparos and Despatiko. Nikos, our driver/guide, was fabulous, and we had a delicious lunch on board.

We then ferried to Santorini, where we stayed in the breathtaking Grace Hotel. The geology, ruins, and small towns in Santorini didn’t disappoint, and we enjoyed special attention at dinners that Irene arranged and various recommended restaurants, some ‘off the beaten path.’ We also loved our fascinating guided tour to Akrotiri, a town even older than Pompeii that was also destroyed—and then preserved—due to a massive volcanic explosion.

Our meals, guides, and hotels were all impeccable, and even with the heat and crowds, we always felt supported and well taken care of. We would highly recommend Irene to anyone planning a trip to Greece.” —Amanda Mandel

This trip was arranged by a WOW List candidate. Here’s what that means.

Ask Wendy

 

Tuscany: “Cool breezes throughout the day and evening—a welcome relief from the heat in Europe this summer…”

Scenic overlook of the Tyrrhenian Sea along the Amalfi Coast of Italy.

Scenic overlook of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Italy. Photo: Shutterstock

“Normally we would not travel to Italy in July…too hot and too crowded. However, our goal was to see Andrea Bocelli perform at the amphitheater he built in Tuscany called Teatro del Silenzio in Lajatico, his hometown. The theater is ‘silent’ except for the one concert he performs there each year in July, and we felt it would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The concert was taking place during the middle of our time in Italy, so we needed an agenda before and after.

Jennifer suggested we start our trip on the Tuscan coast, staying four nights at the Hotel Il Pellicano. This gorgeous, iconic property overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea, providing cool breezes throughout the day and evening—a welcome relief from the heat in Europe this summer. Heaven in July! We then traveled inland to the countryside of Tuscany for the next four nights, where we would be closer to the Bocelli concert. Borgo Pignano is an elegant country estate close to the hill towns of Volterra and San Gimignano. A perfect location that we would never have found on our own. Again, the temperature dropped in the mornings and evenings, making it very pleasant for al fresco dining and touring.

While at these locations, Jennifer arranged for driver/guides to transport us to several wineries. A standout was Ornellaia. Not an easy tour to arrange, and Jennifer managed it!

The Bocelli concert was beyond our expectations. The tickets that Jennifer and her team secured were front and center, five rows back from the stage. We will never forget it. It was more than a concert, it was a masterful production with a full orchestra, ballet company, chorus and guest artists, from opera to pop. Magical.

Jennifer’s advice is invaluable to us, and we consider her a friend. We have used other WOW List advisors with the same excellent results and will continue to use Wendy Perrin’s great resources when we travel.” —Susan Ketchum

Read more reviews of Italy trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Copenhagen and the Danish seaside: “Not too hot… reasonable crowds, not too expensive, and very enjoyable…”

Lynn Herrick

Rainbow over Copenhagen. Photo: Traveler Lynn Herrick

“We rarely travel to Europe in the summer because of the heat and crowds, but we needed to be in Berlin in mid-July this year and wanted to add a week in another destination prior to reaching Berlin. Denmark was the PERFECT choice. Not too hot (even chilly some days!), reasonable crowds, not too expensive, and very enjoyable. Mads arranged our trip for us and he made it very easy. We did not mind driving in Denmark, so he arranged for a private car and put together an itinerary that gave us a flavor of the country. Our college-age kids traveled with us and there was enough to keep everyone engaged.

We loved, loved, loved Copenhagen. Our hotel was in the middle of all the action, and the city is extremely walkable and public transportation easy to navigate. Our first morning in town was our WOW Moment and it was perfect. We sailed (electric boat) around the city with a private tour guide and lots of fun snacks. It was a great introduction to the city, and the guide gave us lots of ideas for the rest of our trip.

We traveled to several cities after Copenhagen, visited castles, stayed at an inn that has been hosting guests since 1744, learned all about Hans Christian Andersen, visited museums, enjoyed a ferry ride, and stayed in a charming Danish seaside town with a great spa. We finished the trip with one more fun night in Copenhagen and stayed up late, as the sun seems to last forever…. Highly recommend Mads and Denmark for a special summer trip.” —Lynn Herrick

Read more reviews of Denmark trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast: “We did three boat trips (one sailboat and two motor boats), two cooking classes, and several wine tastings…”

Panoramic view of Fortresses Lovrijenac and old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia.

Fortress Lovrijenac outside Dubrovnik’s old town, Croatia. Photo: Shutterstock

“My wife and I worked with Ala. We stayed in Dubrovnik (Hotel Excelsior) for three nights, Hvar (Maslina Resort in Stari Grad) for four nights, and Split (Santa Lucia Heritage Hotel) for two nights. All three hotels were excellent, and the Excelsior and Maslina Resort were both on the water. The Santa Lucia Hotel was in the main square about three blocks from the water.

We wanted to relax, so we did minimal sightseeing. Instead we did three boat trips (one sailboat and two motor boats), two cooking classes, and several wine tastings, which we enjoyed very much. The people of Croatia are very warm and genuine people, and we loved the country. The drivers and tour guides selected by Ala were on time, very knowledgeable, and very nice.

The whole trip was a highlight, but I would say the top two were an eight-hour sailboat, where we then stopped for lunch on a small island, and the cooking class in Split. The food was excellent throughout. I would highly recommend Croatia, and specifically Ala and her team, to anyone who is considering their next vacation.” —Jeffrey Cohen

Read more reviews of Croatia trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Italy: “Lunch and snorkeling…Cruising the Arno river with a renaioli….Learning to row a Batela in Venice…”

Narrow canal with bridge in Venice, Italy. Architecture and landmark of Venice. Cozy cityscape of Venice.

Venice, Italy. Photo: Shutterstock

Maria did an excellent job of planning a balanced trip of cultural sightseeing and fun activities inside, outside, and on the water. After the overnight flight to Milan, we literally hit the ground hiking from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino, keeping our active boys moving while acclimating to the new time zone. Although a little risky with potential jet lag, this was a highlight hiking through the high serene hills for a couple of hours, with only the sounds of birds and a young wild boar and descending upon Portofino on foot. Portofino was a treat and the next full day at sea on a captained 40-foot boat to swim and visit the coastline at our leisure was awesome! Having lunch and snorkeling at San Fruttuoso was fantastic. Additional memorable experiences included:

    • Visiting the Ferrari museum and test driving Ferraris on the streets of Maranello
    • Touring the Accademia sculptures, the Uffizi and cruising the Arno river with a renaioli and our private guide Elvira
    • Staying at a palazzo in Montefalco: Maria was right—this is the balcony of Umbria, and the views are unforgettable!
    • Sightseeing through ancient Rome—including the Forum, Colosseum and Vatican museums—with very knowledgeable private guides (Valerie) and no lines!
    • Riding on the back of Vespas, seeing unique neighborhoods and parks in Roma
    • Learning to row a Batela in Venice w/ our own rowing instructor and having cicchetti (appetizers) and wine

Maria chose excellent hotels for our stays, and the rooftop bar lounge and pool in Florence was a great way to end every fun day.” —Mark Mazzatta

Read more reviews of Italy trips. To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

START A TRIP TO ITALY

 

Be a smarter traveler: Sign up for Wendy’s weekly newsletter to stay in the know. Read real travelers’ reviews, then use the black CONTACT buttons on Wendy’s WOW List to reach out to the right local fixer for your trip.

Northern Lights, Norway

Where to See the Northern Lights and When

To witness the northern lights—also known as the aurora borealis—you need to be pretty strategic about everything from timing and weather to geography and seasons. That’s because you need to achieve “the big three”:  First, a location under the auroral oval, a band that typically crosses through Alaska, northern Canada, southern Greenland, Iceland, and northern Norway. Second, you need dark nights. And third, clear skies.

We turned to WOW Listers for these places—Jan Sortland (Norway and Iceland), Torunn Tronsvang (Norway), Marc Telio (Canada), and Chris Gordon (Iceland)—to learn the best times and places to see the lights and for insider tips on fun ways to pass the days between your nighttime viewing opportunities. Before we dive into their favorite places to experience the northern lights, some overall tips:

Understand the auroral oval. The northern lights appear when the earth’s magnetic field attracts charged particles thrown off by the sun, the result of solar storms. The particles form a halo around the magnetic pole; this is the so-called auroral oval.

Plan a longer trip. Build in extra time in case of stormy weather. “I target trips of 10 days or more,” says Iceland specialist Gordon, “starting mid-September, because we finally have normal nightfall after a summer of midnight sun, and cloudy winter skies probably haven’t yet set in. And I discourage long weekends with northern lights as the primary travel goal. It takes priority and commitment to plan travel around them.”

Don’t assume you’re guaranteed a light show in Sweden, Finland, or Greenland. Sweden’s too far south (most of Finland is, too), and Greenland’s weather can be stormy in winter, resulting in skies that obscure the lights. So those countries tend to be more unpredictable for northern-lights viewing than Norway, Iceland, and Canada.

Consider your comfort in the winter months. “You need cozy lodging to balance cold nighttime searching,” says Gordon. “My favorite idea is a suite with a private outdoor terrace and hot pool. Maybe with a hot toddy in hand!”  Bring lots of layers too, so you stay warm in what are often harsh and inhospitable conditions.

Did you know you can see the northern lights in summertime?  They occur year-round; the only reason they’re perceived as a winter phenomenon is that you need a dark sky to actually see them, and in very northerly parts of the world, there’s very little darkness in summer. But, in certain spots, you can sometimes see the northern lights as early as late August.

Here are our experts’ top places to witness the northern lights:

Alta, Norway

View of the Northern Lights in Alta, Norway.

Northern Lights in Alta, Norway. Photo: Shutterstock

This town is ideally located right under the auroral oval and at the meeting point of three different microclimate zones; this betters your odds of seeing the aurora borealis, since it’s unusual to have overcast skies in all three zones at the same time. Alta is also warmed by the gulf stream, so daytime temperatures are warmer there even than in spots farther south. In the past 20 years, every traveler whom Sortland has sent to Alta for at least three nights has seen the northern lights. “Venturing up to the top of Bjørnfjell Mountain to watch the northern lights around a bonfire is magical,” says Tronsvang. She adds that another benefit of Alta is that you don’t have to drive around to see the lights: “You can see them from your accommodations, such as the the Isbreen domes outside of Alta in Jokelfjord.”

When to Go

“The best time of year is March,” says Sortland, “but you can see the northern lights there from the end of August until the end of March.”

While You’re There, Don’t Miss….

Ice fishing and dog sledding. “Spend a day in the wilderness as a musher, followed with a 12-course organic dinner prepared by Sami chef Johnny Trasti at Trasti & Trine,” Tronsvang tells us. “The feeling of mastering the dogs and having to work hard outside in a stunning winter landscape, followed by culture told through local ingredients prepared like simple art, is amazing!” Jan can also arrange for you to go reindeer herding with the Sami.

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Iceland

northern lights over snowy flat plateau and lake in iceland

A dark-sky light show in Iceland. Photo: kamilgrygo/Pixabay

Iceland’s south coast, including the Vik area, and Jökulsárlón—the country’s best-known glacier lagoon—are prime destinations for northern lights. Because Iceland is an island and subject to offshore fronts, the weather can be unpredictable, and it’s common for clouds to block the light show.

When to Go

October to March.

While You’re There, Don’t Miss…

Gordon works with a local expert guide who takes his travelers up into unexplored, seismically active mountain ranges (in a specially modified jeep) via gravel riverbeds to reach raging hot rivers with high-elevation vistas. “Soaking in a clean, naturally hot river truly relaxes mind and body and inspires visions of an ideal way of living. While you’re soaking, your guide can cook wild-caught salmon in an adjacent hot spring or fumarole [natural steam vent].  They can even bake traditional Icelandic rhubarb cake!” he says.

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Northern Canada

Dog sledding in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories in Canada.

Dog sledding in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories in Canada is an authentic adventure during daylight hours Photo: Shutterstock

Northern lights displays are likeliest in the northern third of Canada: The Northwest Territory often sits directly under the auroral oval, as does part of the Yukon Territory.

When to Go

The absolute best time of year for the clearest and darkest skies is from the third week of January to the end of March. November and December also have the dark skies, but they produce more precipitation, so skies may have more cloud cover. Peak-season dates book up early, so plan well in advance. (A typical stay in the region is four nights.)

While You’re There, Don’t Miss…

To occupy yourself in the daytime, go snowmobiling, snowshoeing, dogsledding and ice fishing.  Also, says Telio, “there are some profoundly beautiful Indigenous storytelling and cultural experiences, including one where guests have the opportunity to eat Muktuk [whale] and meet with elders in a community.”

START A TRIP TO NORTHERN CANADA

 

Read These Northern Lights Trip Reviews For More Intel and Cool Trip Ideas

Norway in September
“We stayed in a Rorbu in Reine and stepped outside to a show of the Northern Lights—right there on our own porch!!”

Reine, Lofoten, Norway. The village of Reine under a sunny, blue sky, with the typical rorbu houses. View from the top

The village of Reine in Lofoten, Norway. Photo: Shutterstock

“We started in Bergen, driving north through the fjords, and had constant awe-inspiring scenery. Jan arranged two different times we would be on the water in a fjord. We spent half a day on a RIB boat—just the two of us and the captain—gliding along the fjord waters.

Then we flew to the Lofoten Islands, where we stayed in a Rorbu in Reine. We had a fun WOW Moment when an excellent halibut dinner was prepared for us in our own room and we were able to enjoy this private time together watching the harbor with a great meal! Thank you for arranging this!! A couple of hours later, we stepped outside to a show of the Northern Lights—right there on our own porch!!

Finally, we flew up to Alta, above the Arctic Circle. The Sorrisniva Arctic Wilderness Lodge was absolutely incredible. Our room, with floor-to-ceiling windows, looked out over the Alta River, and you really felt a million miles from everything. We would have been content to stay there and never leave the grounds—but there was much to see and do! We took a boat ride on the Alta River, with a BBQ lunch of salmon along the way. Very memorable. The visit to the Sami was so interesting—we were so glad to learn about this culture. And each night, we had our Chasing the Northern Lights Safari.” —Sally Boland

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Iceland in September
“Sometimes I felt like I was on the moon. Other times I felt like I was in the middle of a volcano…”

Auroras over Eillidavatn close to Reykjavik in Iceland. calm water reflecting the northern lights blazing in the sky.

Northern Lights, Iceland. Photo: Shutterstock

Chris provided experiences for us that were truly unique. My favorite was when we got into a jeep, travelled a few miles inland and then began a hike. After a short while our guide dammed the hot spring and made a private hot tub for us in the middle of the wilderness. While we soaked, he cooked a salmon lunch for us over a fumarole. Spectacular!

We circumnavigated Iceland and felt we did not miss a thing. Chris steered us to the best restaurants, best sites and best lodging. We even saw the northern lights on our last night there. Talk about timing!

We went at the beginning of September, and the timing was perfect. We did not experience the summer crowds. The weather was cold but bearable. We had 12 hours of light each day. Everything was open for business.

I would recommend Iceland to anyone who is looking for a trip with adventure and outdoor activities. The landscape is spectacular, encompassing both thermal and ice. Sometimes I felt like I was on the moon. Other times I felt like I was in the middle of a volcano. Imagine hiking in an ice cave too! I have travelled many places but Iceland is certainly unique.” —Ron Klausner

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Canada in October
“We viewed polar bears continuously for four days…”

Polar Bear walking on snow with northern lights in the background

Polar Bear, North Canada. Photo: Shutterstock

“My husband and I traveled with another couple to Seal River Heritage Lodge, a short plane ride north of Churchill, Manitoba, from October 21-27. Marc was wonderful in helping us plan the trip. It was a trip of a lifetime! Everything went perfectly. Our two biggest wishes were to see polar bears and the northern lights. We were not disappointed. We had seen the trips that involve the elevated buses and knew we didn’t want that experience.

What Marc provided was so much more. We viewed polar bears continuously for four days. The photos we took were incredible. We weren’t promised anything, but what we received was so much more than what we expected. Thank you for an amazing experience!” —Mike and Sue Mrdjenovich

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Norway in January
“We went dogsledding, snowmobiling, and saw the northern lights…”

A team of husky sled dogs running on a snowy road

Husky sled dogs running in Norway. Photo: visitnorway.com

“Truly a trip of a lifetime. My family of 4 (me, my husband and two adult boys) went to Alta where we went dogsledding, snowmobiling, and saw the northern lights. In Oslo we went on a very interesting architecture tour. The highlight was relaxing in the lodge sauna after a day spent snowmobiling and getting called by the lodge staff to come outside to watch the northern lights!

The staff at all of the places Torunn and Mari sent us to were exceptional and would go out of their way to provide assistance. We can’t wait to go back sometime in the summer now and see the same location again.” —Neha Vyas

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Norway in February
“A Sami elder met us and drove us over 30 miles on snowmobiles to watch the Sami move a herd of 2,500+ reindeer to higher terrain…”

Reindeer herding with a traditional dressed Sami woman in Norway.

Reindeer herding with the Sami, Norway. Photo: Shutterstock

“Seeing the Northern Lights was on my bucket list, and Jan helped me plan every detail of the trip. The hotels were excellent, and we received many upgrades. Our hotel in Alta was particularly lovely, and our dinners there were incredible. Knowing how much we wanted to see the Lights, and being disappointed twice before in Iceland, Jan steered us to Alta, in the northernmost part of Norway. He said it would give us the best shot. How right he was! We saw them three out of three nights!

Much of this is due to the incredible guides Jan arranged. Despite the fact that it was cloudy and snowing the first two nights, our guides looked at all the weather maps and found the area that had the most potential to clear up. It was a real drive, but the clouds disappeared and the Lights danced.

Jan also suggested a visit to the area where the Sami live and herd reindeer. It was the best advice! These indigenous people live the same way their ancestors did, and it was a privilege to spend the day with them. Mathis, a Sami elder, met us and drove us over 30 miles on snowmobiles to watch the Sami move a herd of 2,500+ reindeer to higher terrain. After that, we snowmobiled back to his home, where he had prepared a delicious lunch of salmon and Arctic char. He generously and patiently answered all our questions and made us feel like welcomed guests. Our day with this incredible gentleman was truly the highlight of our trip, and it is an experience that will not be forgotten.” —Judy Wimpfheimer

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Be a smarter traveler: Sign up for Wendy’s weekly newsletter to stay in the know. Read real travelers’ reviews, then use the black CONTACT buttons on Wendy’s WOW List to reach out to the right local fixer for your trip.

Wendy aboard a "hotel barge" on the Canal de Bourgogne in Burgundy, France

How to Know if a Barge Cruise in France Is Right for You

I’m just back from one of my favorite trips ever: a six-night, eight-passenger barge cruise on the Canal de Bourgogne. Too many people think a river cruise on a 160-passenger ship is their only option for traveling by inland waterway in Europe.  They are missing out.  France in particular has a big network of picture-postcard canals where intimate boats (4 to 12 passengers) glide from village to village, past medieval castles and old-world farms, with no cars in sight for long stretches. It’s like floating through a bygone era. The pace is so languid that you can actually walk faster than the barge goes. I enjoyed hopping off to walk or bike along the towpath, then hopping back on.

The biggest surprise for me was how the escargot’s pace of the barge forced me to relax more than I’ve been able to in years. We could have done the same sightseeing by car, sleeping in hotels—in fact, we could have driven from the village where we started (Vandenesse-en-Auxois) to the village where we ended (Plombières-lès-Dijon) in only 27 minutes!—but that would not have unwound us into the same state of deep relaxation.

A beautiful landscape of Vandenesse en Auxois Burgundy Canal barge.

We started our barge cruise in the village of Vandenesse-en-Auxois, France.  Photo: Timothy Baker

Despite the slow pace, we actually covered a lot of territory, thanks to excursions by van each afternoon to historic sights, wineries, châteaux, and villages where we ended up visiting artisan studios, farmers’ markets, antique shops, cheesemakers…. One of my favorite excursions was to the Chateau de Commarin, where the same noble family that has owned it for 26 generations still lives today; below you can see the Count’s dog greeting me.

Most people would be surprised by the level of luxury, the modern creature comforts, and the exquisite cuisine on our barge. A private barge charter really is like having your own staffed vacation home, only with ever-changing views. And, because you wake up in a different village each day, there’s always someplace new to explore outside your door, yet there are no logistics to deal with.

Tim and I can’t wait to barge again:  Next on our list is the Canal du Midi.  Still, barging is not for everyone. I wouldn’t recommend it to families with toddlers or teens (who could get bored on the barge or need more exercise than just walking and biking), nor to anyone who requires a hotel gym. Nor would I recommend it to people who don’t like wine or cheese, given how much of it is served every day. (We tasted at least 40 wines and 40 cheeses during our six days.)

Wendy biking near a barge in the Burgundy canal in France.

Biking on the Canal de Bourgogne was easy and safe.  Photo: Timothy Baker

There are three groups of travelers who I think could really benefit from barging:

  • A group of couples who get together each year and are looking for something different and fabulous.
  • A family group without kids that is looking for an especially scenic and logistically easy villa-style vacation.
  • Busy execs who must work on vacation. That’s because a barge lets you sightsee from your desk. I was able to sit on deck all morning, answering email on my laptop while bucolic scenery and history glided by, then take a break each afternoon for an excursion and gourmet pursuits.

If you’re an individual couple without a group, there are certain weeks of the year when barges will have availability for you, but most barge cruises are private charters (typically for a group of four, eight, or twelve). Barges are pretty much sold out for 2023, but there is still a lot of availability for 2024.  If you’ve got questions about whether a barge trip is right for you, or if you could use a recommendation of the right boat, region, or itinerary for your needs, I’m happy to help via the Ask Wendy questionnaire.

Wendy at Chateau de Commarin in Burgundy, with a dog approaching her.

One of my favorite excursions was to the Château de Commarin, where the same noble family that has owned it for 26 generations still lives today (that’s the Count’s dog you see greeting me).  Photo: Timothy Baker

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Wendy-Perrin on Champ de Mars with the Eiffel Tower in the back.

Paris Is Crowded: These Tips Will Save You Lines and Headaches

I just spent the last ten days of April in France, including four days in Paris, and there are a few things that travelers should know. First, at no time did we see, nor were our plans affected by, the fiery protests or strikes you see in the news. Second, what we did see was a gazillion people in Paris. They were enjoying themselves immensely, but Paris was more crowded than I have ever seen before. Here’s what the banks of the Seine looked like last Saturday afternoon:

The crowds at Seine river bank in Paris, France.

The right bank of the Seine on Saturday, April 29, 2023.  Photo: Timothy Baker

If you’re headed to France this spring, summer, or early fall, hopefully you took the advice we’ve been giving since January and you’re making reservations well in advance or, better yet, using a France expert with local clout who can spare you time-consuming logistics and get you past the lines and crowds. (You’ll find my France picks on The WOW List.) If you are going it on your own—as I did because those France experts are so busy helping you that I did not want to take up their time!—here are my tips.

A long line of people in Champ de Mars waiting in front of the public toilets.

I counted 21 people in line to use the toilets on the Champ de Mars on April 30, 2023. Photo: Wendy Perrin

Plan for things taking longer than usual.

Because of lines, security precautions, and masses of people in popular places, things take longer than they used to. So, if you’re taking the kids this summer, don’t think you’ll be able to do three major sights per day; you’ll be lucky to do two. The line for the public toilets in the Champ de Mars last Sunday (above) says it all.

Guard against pickpockets.

Where there are crowds, there are pickpockets. Within an hour of our landing at Charles de Gaulle, my husband Tim’s iPhone was stolen (somewhere between Terminal 1 and the RER train platform at Terminal 3). The airport police, the guy at the Apple Store on the Champs-Élysées, and signs all over the Metro conveyed that there is a lot of pickpocketing in Paris now. Our hotel concierge said it’s especially bad at the Paris Flea Market, where Tim and I also went. For the rest of our time in Paris, I kept my iPhone zipped into an interior pocket in my jacket.

A photo of the Rodin Museum with the Sculpture Garden in Paris.

The Sculpture Garden of the Rodin Museum was a peaceful spot in Paris on Sunday, April 30, 2023. Photo: Timothy Baker

Seek out quieter spots.

There are so many lesser-known, charming parks and museums in Paris!  At the same time that the Champ de Mars was so busy, the Square d’Ajaccio, a serene and flowery little park with an Eiffel Tower view next to the Hôtel des Invalides (a 15-minute walk away), was empty. I know this because I stopped there en route to the Rodin Museum’s leafy Sculpture Garden on Sunday afternoon (above), which had no wait to buy tickets and had plenty of peaceful corners and unoccupied benches.

Book timed entry tickets.

They’re needed at the most popular museums. As for the Eiffel Tower, even if you buy timed tickets, you’ll still have lines and waits.

The Eiffel Tower comes with its own unique quandaries. Buying advance tickets means taking the risk that your time slot could coincide with rain or foggy weather that ruins your views. That’s why my advice for years has been to wait for a clear day with great visibility, then arrive before opening time and buy tickets to take the stairs to the 2nd floor (the 674-step walk yields fascinating views and perspectives on the city, and you can take it slowly), then ride the elevator from the 2nd floor to the top. In the past, I’ve never seen any line for buying stairs tickets. But now, based on the length of the stairs-tickets line last Sunday afternoon (below), my strategy may no longer work.

A line of people waiting to buy stairs tickers for the Eiffel Tower

The stairs-tickets line at the Eiffel Tower on Sunday afternoon, April 30, 2023.  Photo: Wendy Perrin

Signs said that that line was an hour long. More signs, at more ticket-buying lines, warned: “The top floor may be closed to visitors during busy times to limits on capacity. Delay more than 45 minutes on the second floor.”

Personally, the next time I go to the Eiffel Tower without help from a WOW List France specialist, I’ll book a table at the (Michelin-starred) Jules Verne restaurant on the 2nd floor. It’s got its own elevator with no line.

Or consider ascending the Tower at night. Visitors are currently being admitted until 11:45 pm, so you could see the City of Light illuminated.

Just across the Seine, the Trocadéro—with its famous Eiffel Tower views—was terribly crowded too but as good a people-watching spot as ever. We saw a just-married couple in traditional Korean wedding costume posing for photos, watched a man get down on one knee and propose to his stunned girlfriend, and saw dances performed by a group of girls from Germany.

German dancers on Trocadero in front of the Eiffel Tower.

A group of dancers from Berlin performed at the Trocadéro near the Eiffel Tower on April 30, 2023.  Photo: Wendy Perrin

In stark contrast to Paris, the idyllic villages of Burgundy where I spent my other six days in France, floating through the countryside on a barge, were blissfully empty!  Here’s what the barge cruise was like.

Be a smarter traveler: Sign up for Wendy’s weekly newsletter to stay in the know. Read real travelers’ reviews, then use the black CONTACT buttons on Wendy’s WOW List to reach out to the right local fixer for your trip.

Checking out icebergs in Antarctica with expedition cruise ship specialists via inflatable Zodiacs.

We’re Just Back: Carolyn’s Cruise in Antarctica

When you use our Trip Questionnaire to get a WOW trip, you start by articulating your trip goals and challenges. You can find the right Trip Questionnaire for you via The WOW List’s CONTACT buttons.


 

My trip request:
Antarctica had long been on my travel wish list. I wanted to go somewhere remote that is all about nature and rugged adventures. But I wanted to minimize the chances that I would get seasick or be too cold.

Biggest trip goal:
To leave my comfort zone, visiting a land almost entirely snow, ice, mountains, rocks, and to see penguins.

Carolyn Spencer Brown, on her first trip to Antarctica. Photo by Teijo Niemela

Biggest trip challenge:
I’m sensitive to motion sickness, and most Antarctica voyages require an often rough two-day crossing of the Drake Passage, the body of water that lies between South America and the Antarctic. I wanted to avoid those two days of rough seas on each end of the cruise.

Getting there:
We were starting from Maryland, so the travel time to Antarctica was approximately 19 hours over three days. We flew from Philadelphia to Miami, took a red-eye from Miami to Santiago, Chile, and overnighted in Santiago. Then we flew via Latam charter to Punta Arenas, near Chile’s southern tip (where the flights originate to Antarctica), and then on Antarctic Airways to King George Island in the South Shetland Islands. There we boarded a minibus to the Zodiac “landing” (there are no cruise-ship docks in Antarctica), climbed into a Zodiac and sailed across Admiralty Bay, and boarded the ship from the inflatable boat. Luggage followed.

The itinerary:
One week in the Antarctic Peninsula. This surprised me: Aside from knowing where we would fly from (Punta Arenas) and to (King George Island), our 7-night itinerary from Silversea Cruises labeled each day, simply, “Antarctica Peninsula.” That’s because every day, and often several times in a day, weather (and winds) would be extremely variable and changed quickly, so the captain and the expedition leader decided each night (and sometimes the day of) where we would go next. It was a powerful reminder that nature was in charge, not humans, and that felt sort of relieving (especially because we knew we had experienced pros making decisions for us).

The expedition team aimed to offer two landings each day (again, highly weather-dependent). We ended up stopping at Danco Island, Cuverville Island, Orne Harbour, Petermann Island, and Port Charcot/Pleneau Bay. And then it got really exciting: Because weather conditions in the Shetlands were worse than expected and, unusually, better than anticipated inside the Antarctic Circle, our captain headed south, where we landed at Detaille Island, Porquis Pas Island, and Jenny Island before heading back up north. As the trip was about to wind up, we transited the Lemaire Channel, Neko Harbour, Wilhelmina Bay and Deception Island before returning to King George Island.

View from the inflatable Zodiac of the icebergs.

One of my favorite ways to spend a few hours in Antarctica was riding a Zodiac right up close to icebergs. No two look alike. Photo: Carolyn Spencer Brown

Antarctica itinerary options vary. For 7- to 13-night voyages, you’ll spend more time in the South Shetland Islands because they’re close to the Drake Passage. (Landings there are often combined with landings on—or on islands just off—the Antarctic Peninsula.)  Longer voyages, typically from 13 nights to three weeks, will also include the South Georgia Islands and the Falkland Islands.

Cruises primarily depart from either Argentina’s Ushuaia (with an overnight in Buenos Aires) or Punta Arenas (with an overnight in Chile’s southernmost city). Another option for setting off across the Drake is Chile’s Puerto Williams.

Challenges solved:

Boarding our non-stop flight from Chile’s Punta Arenas to Antarctica’s King George Island. Flight time to the most remote place on earth? Just 2 hours. Photo: Teijo M. Niemela

Instead of two rough days crossing the Drake Passage, we flew across. The flight from Punta Arenas to King George Island was only a two-hour, and very smooth, flight. So, motion sickness averted. As for the cold, I needn’t have worried so much! Even in November (which is early in the Antarctic’s Austral spring and summer season), temperatures hovered at the 32-degree mark, though the wind could be chilling. Most cruise lines provide guests with complementary parkas (ours were thick, with a removable liner in case you got warm) and waterproof pants. You can rent boots (which means you don’t need to pack them) and they are delivered onboard.

The biggest thrills:
The otherworldly landscapes. I loved riding in Zodiacs right up to icebergs, and around bays where you had to crane your neck to see the tops of mountains, and the feeling of the freshest of sea breezes (you couldn’t really smell anything—too cold for that). I loved the islands, some flat, some quite hilly, all covered in snow or rock, where you could hike around to see penguins living their lives, sea lions resting from their great journeys to the ice, and the remnants of whaling stations (the only physical structures we saw beyond King George Island).

Penguins in Antarctica.

Penguins are quirky and full of personality as they conduct their lives in front of us.

Our airplane landing on King George Island. The specially outfitted BAe 146 of Antarctica Airways, a plane designed for short runway landings and takeoffs, flew into an airport with no terminal and just a gravel runway that pilots, well trained, had to eyeball. The flight was smooth and the catering was delicious (a full meal, reflecting southern Chile’s traditional meats, cheeses and pastries, was served). There wasn’t much of a view (it was all sea) until you came right into King George Island, and then…wow, the ice, the snow, the craggy peaks that you’d read about but hadn’t seen…. It was a dramatic beginning to our explorations there.

View of Antarctica's landscape from our cruise ship.
Antarctica's landscape. Photo: Carolyn Spencer Brown.
Expedition cruise in Antarctica.
Expedition cruise in Antarctica. Photo: Carolyn Spencer Brown.
Dinner at Silver Endeavour's La Dame being served.
Dinner at Silver Endeavour's La Dame restaurant. Photo: Carolyn Spencer Brown.
Our guides in Antarctica's land preparing us for what to see.
On our expedition cruise to Antarctica, we made for land at several different places every day. Our guides prepared us for what to see. Photo: Carolyn Spencer Brown.
Wine hour in the Observation Lounge.
Wine hour in the Observation Lounge. Photo: Carolyn Spencer Brown.
The hauntingly beautiful Lemaire Channel, where a narrow passage runs between two mountain ranges.
The hauntingly beautiful Lemaire Channel, where a narrow passage runs between two mountain ranges. Photo: Carolyn Spencer Brown.

The creature comforts:
Silversea Cruises’ Silver Endeavour, a brand new ship, was billed as ultra-luxury; every cabin is a suite, and every suite has a balcony. Would the luxuriousness of the vessel overwhelm the destination? It did not. It was a great place to rest up between landings. We loved that in our rare downtime, we could curl up in the sprawling library with its cozy nooks. Our bed was firm and comfortable, and our balcony was terrific when something fascinating slid by and we wanted to grab a photo. It was nice while on land to feel like you were roughing it, and then to come back to a ship where the crew couldn’t do enough for you.

View of Antarctica through the glassed-in walls inside the cafe/swimming pool while dining.

What a view! In the casual cafe/swimming pool, the glassed-in walls and roof keep you snug while you dine (or swim). Photo: Carolyn Spencer Brown

Best surprise:
The views from the hot tub. We immersed ourselves up to our necks in the outdoor whirlpool tub on deck six, with ice floes and towering mountains all around us. After 300 cruises, I can say that these were the best views from a cruise-ship hot tub ever!

View of Antarctica landscape from the cruise ship hot tub.

It’s bliss to sit in this hot-water whirlpool with its ever-changing views (but it’s not so much fun getting out!). Photo: Carolyn Spencer Brown

Worst surprise:
Getting home one day late. Antarctica weather can disrupt arrival or departure. On our last day of the 7-night cruise, a storm front had moved into King George Island, and we could not fly home as scheduled. The good news: We got an extra day of exploring on land and luxuriating in the hot tub.

Most underrated:
The daily briefings by the expedition team. At 6 p.m. in the Expedition Lounge, where bar crew served espresso martinis and hot hors d’oeuvres, the team would recap the day’s highlights via video and photographs. Then they’d give us a preview of the next day’s plans (always subject to change, and they often did), followed by mini-enrichment lectures (10 minutes apiece) by staff on their specialities, such as maritime history, marine mammals, ornithology, etc. Prior to the trip, I thought this might be rather dry, but after multiple landings where you’d cruise on Zodiacs with the expedition team or chat with them on land, you got to know them a little bit as people, and that infused so much more enthusiasm than expected.

Our expedition leader’s pre-dinner lectures were surprisingly fascinating as she shared memories of today — and insights on tomorrow. Photo: Carolyn Spencer Brown

Thank God I packed:
Medicated lip balm (our expedition guides suggested Burt’s Bees or Carmex, which have a 15 SPF rating). Sunglasses and sunblock (45 SPF was recommended). Wool touch-screen gloves that allow you to take pictures with your phone’s camera. A woolen neck warmer from Patagonia. Moisture wicking tee-shirts. Leggings that you layer under the waterproof pants and parka.

What I didn’t need to pack:
A portable modem. I was totally surprised to find that the Wi-Fi onboard Silver Endeavor worked very well for checking emails and even rebooking my return flight when our departure was delayed. My portable modem didn’t work in Antarctica anyway because there is really no civilization.

Most bizarre tradition:
The Polar Plunge (which is also popular on Arctic cruises) is, for many, a frosty challenge. On our cruise, literally half the passengers onboard (and some staff and crew) donned bathing suits, hopped into a Zodiac, climbed up on its padded side, and dove, jumped, cannonballed or slid into the frigid sea. I wish I could say that I tried it.  I didn’t, but it was fun to watch everyone’s reactions, from an outdoor deck just above. No regrets on this end.

Lessons learned:
Pace yourself. Sometimes we just needed to relax in the hot tub, walk laps around deck 10, have a massage at the spa, or simply sip tea and read a book in the library.

Build in time before and after Antarctica. Even if you try to pace yourself, this is a busy trip, and the travel to and from Antarctica is tiring. Next time, I’ll build in more days before and after the Antarctica portion.  Our limited time in Santiago made me want to explore further, and Punta Arenas is a gateway to the thrills of Patagonia.

Best trip memory:

Crushing the ice in Antarctica. Photo: Teijo Niemela.

One day, toward the end of the trip, our Captain found an ice field and maneuvered the ship into it. That was the most remote, desolate, wild place—where the ship’s hull was able to glide through the ice that surrounded us. The views around us, craggy mountains, and utter silence made this the magic moment. This was the peace I had been searching for when I first considered a cruise to Antarctica.

START YOUR TRIP TO ANTARCTICA

Transparency disclosure:  Silversea Cruises provided Carolyn with a complimentary trip, and she does paid consulting work for Silversea.  She is also a longtime travel journalist who has taken 300 cruises.  Everything Carolyn did on the trip is accessible to every traveler who requests an Antarctica cruise via Wendy’s trip questionnaire. Thanks to Wendy’s WOW system, you’ll be recognized as a VIP traveler.

 

Be a smarter traveler: Sign up for Wendy’s weekly newsletter to stay in the know. Read real travelers’ reviews, then use the black CONTACT buttons on Wendy’s WOW List to reach out to the right local fixer for your trip.

Brook and her family at the Sphinx statue with no other people around.

We’re Just Back: Brook’s Family Trip to Egypt

When you use our Trip Questionnaire to get a WOW trip, you start by articulating your trip goals and challenges. That’s what Brook did when planning her kid-friendly adventure in Egypt. You can find the right Trip Questionnaire for you via The WOW List’s CONTACT buttons.


 

My trip request:
Seeing the Pyramids had long been my son Zeke’s dream. Egypt has been marked with a special pushpin on the world map in his bedroom since he was seven. When Zeke turned 11, we decided it was time to make his dream come true. We needed a kid-friendly itinerary for Egypt that hit all the highlights while avoiding the post-pandemic tourist crowds that afflict those iconic spots.

Biggest trip goals:
I had two goals: to make three-dimensional the ancient history Zeke had been learning about from textbooks, and to show him a slice of the country’s contemporary life.

Biggest trip challenges:
People from all corners of the globe want to see the last remaining wonder of the ancient world, so Egypt’s sights are notoriously crowded. I needed an itinerary that would allow us to avoid the lines, crowds, and tour-bus gridlock, fill our days with enough physical activity to burn kid energy, and keep Zeke from missing too much school.

Getting there:
We were starting in San Francisco. We thought about connecting in New York (JFK) to the EgyptAir nonstop to Cairo, but decided against it because we were nervous about domestic flight delays possibly interfering with our connection to an international flight. Instead, we flew nonstop from San Francisco to Istanbul on Turkish Airlines, spent a restful six hours at the YOTEL hotel on the airside of the airport (no need to pass through security), then connected for a short flight to Cairo.

The basic itinerary:
We contacted Egypt specialist Jim Berkeley via The WOW List. He timed our trip for Thanksgiving week, so that Zeke would miss only four days of school. Jim designed our 10-day itinerary thus: two nights in Cairo, one night in Luxor, a four-night Nile cruise on a small dahabiya, two nights in Aswan, and two nights in Giza.

Challenges solved:
Jim handpicked private, English-speaking, special-access guides for us who knew how to get around many of the crowds. At Cairo’s Egyptian Museum, for instance, our guide got us there as soon as the doors opened and made a beeline for the second-floor galleries containing King Tut’s treasures, while most other visitors started on the first floor. At the Pyramids, she took the opposite route that most tours take—letting us have the Sphinx completely to ourselves. To me, the best local guides are people I could imagine striking up a friendship with if we lived in the same town. I never found the boundaries of our guide Reham’s historical knowledge—indeed, she was studying for a master’s degree between our forays around Cairo—but even more memorable than her book learning were our shared commiserations over raising pre-teens while juggling careers in travel, and the apparently worldwide phenomenon of helicopter parents trying to solve their kids’ social quandaries.

Strolling El Moez Street in Old Cairo along locals and other visitors.

Brook and local guide Reham strolling El Moez Street in Old Cairo. Photo. Ryan Damm.

Jim also found ways to add physical activity that would be fun for the whole family: We sandboarded down dunes in Aswan one day. We rode bikes early one morning from Luxor to the Valley of the Kings. (For safety, we were led by a motorbike and followed by our van, with a spontaneous police escort waving us through one intersection—but next time I’ll remember to insist on helmets when planning to rent bikes abroad.)

Brook and her son biking on an empty road to the Valley of the Kings in Luxor.

Biking to the Valley of the Kings in Luxor, Egypt. Photo: Ryan Damm.

Brook sandboarding new Aswan.

Sandboarding near Aswan. Photo: Ryan Damm.

Our food tour of Cairo involved not just eating, but also walking a few miles on bustling city streets to visit ten different stops, from a juice bar to a falafel stand to a homestyle joint where all the signage was in Arabic.

Different fruit nets on a food market in Cairo.

A stop on Brook’s food tour of Cairo. Photo: Ryan Damm.

The highlight:
Our 4-night Nile cruise on a dahabiya. A dahabiya is a crewed sailing vessel that had won over even my boat-averse colleague Billie last year. Unlike the larger, Western-style cruise ships on the Nile, our 12-passenger dahabiya was able to stop at smaller sites the larger ships couldn’t navigate. For instance, we pulled up beside an ancient sandstone quarry; it was fascinating to walk amongst the cliffs from which stones had been cut and then rafted downriver to build the very temples we’d visited earlier in the trip. We strolled around a village where Zeke shared photos and Frisbee throws with local kids. We even stopped at a sandy shoreline where we could swim in the Nile (our captain chose a spot where the water was moving briskly enough to keep it clean, and crocodiles are rare north of the High Dam in Aswan). As the only kid on board, Zeke was occasionally restless, and the cabins were a tad shabby—but the deeper experience of life on the river made it well worth it.

Dahabiya Zekrayaat. Photo: Ryan Damm.
Just another shoreline view from the dahabiya. Photo: Ryan Damm.
Making friends in a Nubian village. Photo: Ryan Damm.
Playing frisbee with local kids. Photo: Ryan Damm.
Swimming in the Nile. Photo: Ryan Damm.
Exploring a sandstone quarry. Photo: Ryan Damm.
A larger cruise ship passes Brook's dahabiya. Photo: Ryan Damm.

A dahabiya is by nature a communal experience (the cabins are small, so we spent most of our free time on the sun deck, and all meals are shared), and we were fortunate to join a fabulously interesting group of fellow travelers. The Thanksgiving-night talent show with the other passengers was a blast. Zeke told two jokes, and we watched new friends sing and dance; all I had to contribute was a handstand. Everyone’s willingness to let their guard down among people they’d met just three days earlier bespoke the camaraderie and intimacy of our short time together.

Best surprise:

Brook looking at the mural painting inside Nefertari's Tomb.

Inside Nefertari’s Tomb. Photo: Ryan Damm.

Queen Nefertari’s Tomb. Jim made sure we didn’t miss this gem. The millennia-old tombs in the Valley of the Kings—and even more so, in the less crowded Valley of the Queens—are exquisitely well preserved, with vibrant colors, visible brushstrokes, and everyday scenes that suggest they could have been painted just last week. But Queen Nefertari’s tomb takes the cake, with multiple chambers and intricate carvings done in sophisticated high relief.

Worst surprise:
Losing Zeke for five terrifying minutes among the throngs at Luxor Temple after sunset. Already disappointed by the crowds that made the temple’s innermost sanctuary feel more like Grand Central Station—it proved to be my least favorite site of the trip—we decided to cut our visit short and lost track of each other on the way out. Our guide kept his cool and found Zeke by the entrance; I greeted them both with teary hugs.

Most underrated:

Looking at the ceiling of the Temple of Khnum in Esna.

The Temple of Khnum, in Esna, Egypt. Photo: Ryan Damm.

The Temple of Khnum. Just before boarding our dahabiya in Esna, we visited the local temple. The ruins are below ground level but have been fully excavated; you take a tuk-tuk through the streets of this unassuming town 35 miles south of Luxor, walk down a flight of stairs, and enter one of the most impressive sites in all of Egypt—at least to my eyes. Restoration work is ongoing, and centuries of soot, grime, and bird droppings still obscure the stone in one half of the temple; in the other half, rows of columns with capitals ornately carved into flowers and palm fronds, and pastel-toned vulture-winged goddesses painted on ceiling frescos, leave you tempted to simply lie down on the gravel floor to take it all in.

Most overrated:
King Tut’s tomb. It’s modest by comparison to other tombs in the Valley of the Kings; at least the mummy still lies in state. Enter for the nostalgic connection to your childhood fascination with Egypt—not for the elaborate carvings you’ll find guiding other pharaohs’ paths to the afterlife, but not Tut’s.

Best places we stayed:

View of pyramids from the balcony at the Marriott Mena House.

View from a room at the Marriott Mena House.

I couldn’t take my eyes off the view from our room at the Marriott Mena House in Giza: There was the Great Pyramid, framed between palm trees by day, and lit up in colorful lights at night. The hotel’s prodigious buffets at breakfast and dinner ensured that everyone in our family could find something they were excited to eat.

 

View of Palace Cataract Suite at the Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan.

Palace Cataract Suite at the Old Cataract Hotel, Aswan.

The bar at the Old Cataract Hotel in Egypt.

The bar at the Old Cataract Hotel. Photo: Ryan Damm.

You need not be an Agatha Christie fan to be charmed by the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract in Aswan. Most rooms in both the original and newer wings have broad Nile views that take in the weathered curves of granite on Elephantine Island, the graceful lines of the feluccas sailing around it, and the hotel’s own highly manicured grounds. In our suite, the ornate chandeliers and richly toned wood cabinetry with mother-of-pearl inlays felt fit for royalty.

Worst place we stayed:
In Luxor, the Sofitel Winter Palace oozes history in ways both good and bad: You can imagine Howard Carter grandly announcing his discovery of King Tut’s tomb from the hotel in 1922, but you also wonder if the furnishings haven’t been reupholstered since then. The main restaurant is adults-only (not to mention jacket-required), and we found the alternative buffet to be overcooked and overpriced. Jim thinks the Winter Palace will get a much-needed refurbishment in the next year or two; until then, he tells me, the other options in town have their own idiosyncrasies.

Traveler beware:
In four decades of traveling, I’ve never been to a place as dominated by group tourism as Egypt is. A smart local fixer employs strategies to avoid the busiest times at the iconic spots—and turns your gaze to smaller, out-of-the-way details, like the careful carving of the toenails on a statue of Ramesses II—but you can’t escape the crowds entirely. A single group of 25 travelers all following the same flag-toting, mic’d-up guide is more difficult to navigate around than a dozen independent couples or families. That shouldn’t stop you from going to Egypt. Just be sure to book your trip through an Egypt specialist like Jim who has the proven ability to outsmart and outrun the big groups when possible.

Brook with her son exploring the Karnak Temple with their guide.

On a busy day at Karnak Temple, Brook’s guide still finds a quiet corner to explore. Photo: Ryan Damm.

Thank goodness I packed:
$100 in one-dollar bills. Thanks to Jim’s pre-trip intel, I had plenty of cash for baksheesh, which I most often handed out unsolicited. In the tombs at Luxor, though, the security guards were persistent in their offers to take your photo or let you behind the ropes—and then equally persistent in seeking out the tip they expected in return.

I’m glad I didn’t pack:
Binoculars. While our early-morning boat ride to the sandboarding spot outside Aswan was a birdwatcher’s dream, and we could have seen more than the most obvious herons, egrets, and kingfishers with a bit of magnification, Jim warned me that customs officials often take binoculars away from travelers upon their arrival, deeming them a security threat to the country’s military installations.

Lesson learned:
A few days before the trip, Jim rejiggered our plans in Cairo, which meant we wouldn’t see the pyramids until the end of our trip—and boy, am I happy he did. This was the highlight of the trip for Zeke, and it allowed us to end on a high note in a way that city sightseeing (while plenty of fun early in the trip) would not have matched. I knew it was a risk to save the most anticipated site for last, but we had to fly through Cairo to get home anyway, and we vowed to extend the trip to see the Pyramids if a Covid quarantine or some other malady forced us to change up our itinerary. (Luckily, all went according to plan.) From now on, I’ll always make sure there’s an extra-special finale at the end of every trip.

Best trip memory:
Zeke still can’t stop talking about our exploits inside the cramped passageways of the Great Pyramid! Built long before the more elaborate tombs constructed during the dynasties of Egypt’s New Kingdom, most of the walls inside the pyramid are smooth but largely unadorned, and the King’s Chamber is a humble precursor of later pharaonic resting places. But nothing makes you feel more like Indiana Jones than clambering up the narrow wooden ramps that lead to that chamber, ever mindful of the tonnage of stone that has held fast above your head for 4,500 years…and counting?

Navigating the passageways inside the Great Pyramid.

Navigating the passageways inside the Great Pyramid.

START YOUR TRIP TO EGYPT

Transparency disclosure: So that I could experience Egypt, WOW Lister Jim Berkeley arranged reduced rates for my family’s trip. Everything I did on my trip is accessible to every traveler who contacts Jim via Wendy’s WOW questionnaire. Thanks to Wendy’s WOW system, you’ll get marked as a VIP traveler.

 

Be a smarter traveler: Sign up for Wendy’s weekly newsletter to stay in the know. Read real travelers’ reviews, then use the black CONTACT buttons on Wendy’s WOW List to reach out to the right local fixer for your trip.

Rovinj Croatia. Sunrise sky above vintage town at Istria peninsula in Adriatic Sea. View from water at old Mediterranean architecture buildings. Coastline and tower of Church of Saint Euphemia.

Croatia Becomes Part of Europe’s Schengen Area. What Does That Mean for You?

On January 1, Croatia celebrated two major milestones that will only enhance its already beguiling appeal for travelers. First, the country has become part of the European Union’s Schengen Zone, which means that travelers won’t need to go through passport control when traveling between Croatia and any of 26 other E.U. countries. Second, Croatia adopted the Euro, which means you won’t need to exchange currency when crossing those borders either.

The new ease of travel between Croatia and many other European countries will affect anyone who dreams of a trip combining Croatia’s ancient harbors and charming villages with a few days in neighboring Slovenia, Hungary, or beyond. In all, a total of 27 European countries are part of the Schengen Zone. It’s interesting to note that of the three countries that applied to be added to the zone in 2023, only Croatia was approved; Romania and Bulgaria were denied.

The entry into the Euro Zone also means the removal of land and sea border checks with some of Croatia’s European neighbors. Americans who fly directly to Europe will still need to show their passport at the first Schengen Zone country they enter, of course, but they won’t need to go through border control after that. Check here for a list of all 27 countries that are members of the Euro Zone. At this point, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Ireland, Romania and the United Kingdom (which is no longer part of the EU as a result of Brexit) are not included in the Schengen area and still require travelers to show passports at border control.

Croatia is the 20th European country to adopt the Euro, officially replacing its currency, the Kuna. For Croatia itself, the big benefit of this change is a greater sense of monetary stability. For travelers who will no longer need to exchange currency when they arrive in Croatia, it’s a convenience, particularly for those of us who used to struggle with the mathematical conversions we needed to make whenever we made a purchase in Croatia.

At this point in early 2023, only seven EU countries still use their own currencies: Bulgaria, Czech Republic, Denmark, Hungary, Poland, Romania, and Sweden.

 

Be a smarter traveler: Sign up for Wendy’s weekly newsletter to stay in the know. Read real travelers’ reviews, then use the black CONTACT buttons on Wendy’s WOW List to reach out to the right local fixer for your trip.

Fregate Island, Seychelles

A Trip to The Seychelles and the Indian Ocean:
Start with our Questionnaire

This pandemic has unleashed unprecedented travel hurdles, as well as opportunities, and we’re monitoring them all. Are you seeking a private, easy, custom-tailored, top-quality trip that minimizes the risk to you and others?  We’ll recommend your smartest options and the best trip-planning fixer for your specific situation, and we’ll ensure you get VIP service.  Here’s how it works:

1. Answer the questions below. Your information is kept private.
2. Press Submit.
3. Expect a reply within 24 hours (or 48 hours on weekends).

 


View from Monte Generoso Ticino Switzerland

A Trip to Switzerland:
Start with our Questionnaire

This pandemic has unleashed unprecedented travel hurdles, as well as opportunities, and we’re monitoring them all. Are you seeking a private, easy, custom-tailored, top-quality trip that minimizes the risk to you and others? We’ll recommend your smartest options and the best trip-planning fixer for your specific situation, and we’ll ensure you get VIP service. Here’s how it works:

1. Answer the questions below. Your information is kept private.
2. Press Submit.
3. Expect a reply within 24 hours (or 48 hours on weekends).

 


aerial shot of Belize ocean with sailboat

Belize: Plan Your Trip!

Your Belize Trip Begins Here

Belize may be small in size (just a tad larger than New Jersey), but it possesses a mighty wide range of enviable attributes: the second-longest barrier reef in the world, dozens of significant Mayan ruins, an extensive cave network available for exploration, thousands of acres of pristine rainforest, and a surprisingly wide array of luxury resorts (several owned by Francis Ford Coppola). Belize is serious about preservation, too: Fully one quarter of the country is designated as a marine or nature reserve. Part of the British Commonwealth, Belize’s official language is English, so communication is simple. But getting around on your own is not: Many of the roads are unpaved, and signage is seriously lacking. It takes a savvy local expert to weave the right mix of scheduled and charter puddle-jumper flights, private drivers, and water taxis or private catamarans to make the most of your time, and to suss out which lodges and resorts will be right for you (even some high-end properties lack in-room Wi-Fi or air conditioning).

We can point you to a Belize specialist who delivers private, custom, WOW trips that keep you away from the tourist crowds and take you to the most thrilling places you could never find or access on your own. But be prepared to spend a minimum of $700 per day for two travelers. If that’s doable, click below and complete the questionnaire. Your information is kept private.

Pricing tip: For a WOW Belize trip, expect to spend at least $700 per day for two travelers, which includes accommodations, private transportation, and some meals and activities.

 

Start your Belize trip here

Ethiopia: Plan Your Trip!

Ethiopia. Photo: Will Jones
Photo: Paul Callcutt
Photo: Graeme Lemon
Photo: Scot Sellers
Photo: Scot Sellers
Photo: Will Jones
Photo: Paul Callcutt

Your Trip to Ethiopia Begins Here

The birthplace of humankind. A frontier wilderness on the edge of a continent that is still fairly wild, but growing less so by the day. Ethiopia is not for the first-timer to Africa—there are few of the magnificent beasts here that are the typical safari prompt. But what you do find in Ethiopia will engage an intrepid explorer: the continent’s highest concentration of highlands, which create a landscape like no other; huge populations of unusual mammal and bird species, such as the bleeding-heart baboon and the white-tailed swallow; and the medieval Christian rock churches that are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The country is new to tourism, particularly of the high-end variety; if you’re not careful, you’ll have a better chance of finding bedbugs than a well-cooked meal. Few travel planners know Ethiopia in depth, but those who do understand where the pockets of excellence exist, how to get around most efficiently despite the poor roads, and how to interact with the local people respectfully—not as a kind of human zoo.

Up for adventure? We can point you to an Ethiopia specialist who delivers private, custom, WOW trips that open your eyes to a different side of Africa, taking you to the most thrilling places and connecting you to insider experiences you could never find or access on your own. But be prepared to spend a minimum of $1,200 per day for two travelers in low season and $1,600 in high season. If that’s doable, click below and complete the questionnaire. Your information is kept private.

Pricing tip: Trips start at $1,200 per day for two travelers in low season and $1,600 per day for two travelers in high season.

Start your Ethiopia trip here

white buildings of oia santorini overlooking the ocean greece

A Trip to Greece:
Start with our Questionnaire

As far as culture goes, few destinations can top Greece. It’s the birthplace of western civilization and home to the Acropolis and many other iconic archaeological sites. Its natural landscapes aren’t too shabby either, with both olive groves and ski slopes packed into a country the size of Alabama, and the vividly blue sea never more than a few hours’ drive away. But that compact size belies the hours—days, even—one can waste trying to get from place to place. With more than 2,000 islands to choose from, each with its own unique character, it can be impossible to figure out which particular pieces will create the perfect trip for you. That’s where the right travel planner comes in, steering you to the most reliable ferry operators, chartering helicopters or boats when public transportation won’t suffice, and building just the right mix of sleepy villages, pulsing nightlife, near-empty beaches, and millennia-old culture. Reach out to Wendy to find your perfect match.

Fill out our Greece travel questionnaire:


convertible cable car up Mt. Stanserhorn Switzerland

5 Cool Experiences You Didn’t Know You Could Have in Switzerland

Think you already know Switzerland, with its snowy peaks, perfectly timed trains, and delicious cheese? Think again. We’re not saying that these famous attributes aren’t indispensable parts of the Swiss experience—but we have uncovered new ways to see a place that so many of us already know and love. Read on for our five favorite twists on quintessential Switzerland. And if you want an extraordinary trip to Switzerland, Wendy knows the right people to help plan it—ask her.

1. Fondue in a Rickshaw

Fondükscha fondue tour in Switzerland

In the small town of Thun, Switzerland, you can hire a “Fondükscha” to give you a tour of the town while you eat fondue. Photo: My Switzerland

Of course you’ll want to try some cheese fondue when in Switzerland—it is the national dish, after all. But how about dipping your bread while being driven around in a rickshaw? In the small town of Thun, located between Interlaken and Bern, you can hire a “Fondükscha” to take you past the main sights of this beautifully intact medieval village while enjoying fondue, wine, cherry brandy, and tea. Swiss rickshaws are designed for the elements, with a closed-cab structure, sheepskin seat covers, and warm blankets to keep you cozy throughout the excursion.

 

2. Ride in an Open-Top Cable Car

convertible cable car up Mt. Stanserhorn Switzerland

To reach the summit of Mt. Stanserhorn, ride the world’s only convertible cable car. Photo: My Switzerland

You don’t have to be a world-class athlete to scale many of Switzerland’s majestic peaks; cable cars and funiculars will do the hard work for you. To reach the summit of Mt. Stanserhorn, in fact, you can hop aboard the world’s only convertible cable car, which runs throughout the summer. From the open-air top deck, enjoy 360-degree views reaching into France and Germany—and no cables to impede your sightlines. At the summit you’ll find a network of hiking trails and a revolving restaurant.

 

3. Take a Train from Glaciers to Palm Trees

Bernina Express train through Switzerland

The beautiful Bernina Express train through Switzerland has the UNESCO World Heritage status. Photo: My Switzerland

The UNESCO World Heritage stamp usually brings to mind ancient ruins or historic monuments. But in the case of the Bernina Express, it’s a train route that has earned this honor. Board the Bernina in St. Moritz, and three hours later you’ll have journeyed past glaciers, over the highest Alpine pass crossed by a train without a tunnel, and down into Tirano, Italy, where the snow-capped peaks outside your panoramic windows are replaced by Mediterranean palms.

 

4. Listen to Traditional Folk Music

Appenzel region of Switzerland

Just an hour from Zurich, the Appenzel region is quintessential Switzerland. Photo: My Switzerland

It’s a wonder that American visitors haven’t yet discovered Appenzell; though just an hour from Zurich, the region is quintessential Switzerland, loaded with gorgeous alpine vistas and a rich cultural heritage. You’d hardly be surprised to see Heidi herself come bounding across the rolling hills, dressed—as many locals today still are—in traditional attire. Come in August and you’ll get to enjoy Ländlerfest, one of Switzerland’s premier folk music gatherings, with performances by both well-established groups and talented young musicians.

 

5. Drive a Snow Groomer

snow grooming pisten bully machine in switzerland

In the resort region of Sattel, you can co-pilot a snow grooming machine. Photo: My Switzerland

Wishing to add some horsepower to your ski vacation? In the resort region of Sattel, you can co-pilot a snow grooming machine, with nothing but the enormous machine’s headlights to guide your way through the darkness of night as you prepare the slopes for the next day’s skiers. Finish your task by midnight and you’ll be rewarded with dinner at a mountainside restaurant.

What unexpected Switzerland experiences are we missing? Tell us in the comments below! And if you want to start planning your own Swiss getaway right now, ask Wendy for a travel specialist recommendation.

START YOUR OWN TRIP TO SWITZERLAND

 
Be a smarter traveler: Use Wendy’s WOW List to plan your next trip. You can also follow her on Facebook and Twitter @wendyperrin, and sign up for her weekly newsletter to stay in the know.

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

I Can’t Believe We Did This: Mountain Climbing in Whistler

“In Whistler we’re doing the Via Ferrata,” Wendy announced proudly. Sounds good, I thought. Must be like “doing” Las Ramblas in Barcelona. But with an Italian twist. Never having been to Whistler, I pictured some street lined with cappuccino and gelato shops and small tables for people-watching. “Not exactly,” she said. “Via Ferrata means ‘iron way’ in Italian. You use iron rungs drilled into the rock face to climb a mountain. We’ll be climbing Whistler Mountain.”

Wait. What? Wendy had signed the family up to climb a rock face? The boys would love it, of course—they’d bungee jump from a moving space shuttle if they could. But I had just had total knee replacement surgery six months earlier. And, while I love Wendy, her rock-climbing abilities are minimal. Did we really need to climb Whistler Mountain? A chairlift goes right to the summit. Whose idea was this anyway? “Steve Ogden from Tourism Whistler.”

Please note that if I, and not Steve, had suggested Wendy climb a mountain, my compos mentis would have been called into question and proceedings to institutionalize me started. But Steve from Tourism Whistler had suggested it. And the Via Ferrata is one of the mountain’s best-kept secrets; very few locals have heard of it. So, of course, Wendy was willing to try it. Anything for a story.

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

The group ahead of us (at lower left) is dwarfed by the mountain. Photo: Timothy Baker

And so, on a perfect mountain afternoon, we met our guide, Josh Majorossy, at the Whistler Alpine Guides headquarters a little above Whistler Mountain’s Roundhouse Lodge complex (elevation 6,069 feet). I saw a group returning from the morning climb and, trying to glean a little intel, asked how it was. “Brilliant,” they delivered in a British accent. Okay. But is there anything I should know about it? “It was just brilliant.” Thanks.

Josh was an extremely patient and laid-back fellow—a professional mountain guide who does the climb twice a day and has led hundreds of groups. He assured me that my knee would be fine. He assured Wendy that mountain-climbing novices of only average fitness can do this. “If you can climb a ladder, you can climb the mountain.”

After waiver signing (a popular Whistler tourist activity), we each got kitted up with a hard hat and a harness with two lanyards and carabiners, and we had a brief safety chat. Safety rule #1: One of your lanyards and carabiners must be attached to the safety cable at all times. Rule #2: Yell “Rocks!” if any are dislodged. Rule #3: When someone above you yells “Rocks!,” don’t look up. Rule #4: Only one person at a time can be attached to a segment of safety cable; that way, if you stumble and fall, you won’t take out the people below you.

Earlier in the season, when snow is present, you traverse the snow to the spot where the rungs start. In early August, though—when we did it—you hike down and back up again to the trail. The hike down was a simple walk, but the hike up was actually what mountain climbers call “scrambling.”

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

Carrying a broken ski pole he found, Doug scrambles through a crack in the rock. Photo: Timothy Baker

Scrambling is climbing and clambering over rocks freestyle, with no set trail. The boys were in boy heaven. I was worried because we weren’t to the beginning of the safety cable just yet. If they fell, other rocks would break their fall.

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

Wendy is more at home in the canyons of Manhattan than scrambling up a mountain peak. Photo: Timothy Baker

In the distance, we could see the group ahead of us. So we could see where we were expected to go. Up there? Really?

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

Charlie stops for a little natural refreshment. Photo: Timothy Baker

At the starting point of the climb came our first gut check. There were several aluminum ladders attached via cables to the mountain and going almost straight up.

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

Our first gut check. Josh leads the way up the ladder to the start of the trail. Photo: Timothy Baker

Each of us clipped both our lanyards to the first safety cable. We started the climb, leap-frogging one set of lanyards and carabiners over the other every six feet or so past where the cable was anchored.

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

Doug climbs the first series of rungs. Photo: Timothy Baker

As Dad, I was constantly watching everyone’s lanyards to make sure that the carabiners had properly attached and closed. If one of us were to stumble and fall, we would fall only as far as the next safety-cable anchor.

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

A natural ledge makes a perfect place for Charlie to use panorama mode. Photo: Timothy Baker

On several occasions we witnessed natural rock slides: Steamer-trunk-sized boulders, probably loosened by the weight and thawing of the snow and ice, broke off the mountain peak and slid down the snow chute well away from our vertical trail.

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

Back on the climb. Photo: Timothy Baker

The rungs themselves are not actually iron. They’re steel rebar inserted into holes drilled into the rock and epoxied in place. (“Via Rebar” just doesn’t sound exotic enough for marketing.) The experience is sometimes like climbing a ladder, but sometimes the rungs are at uneven intervals, or are offset, or both. In several spots there were no rungs at all, as there were natural handgrips and footholds in the rock. Josh challenged us to try not to use the rungs if we could use the natural rock (while still attached to the safety line, of course). The boys took the challenge whenever they could. Wendy did not.

There were a couple of tricky sections (called “technical” by real mountain climbers) where a bit of reach was needed to grab the rungs. On the toughest section, it was a little like a game of Twister. (Left foot blue. Right hand blue.) In that section Wendy needed encouragement from Josh (and his climbing rope).

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

Mountain guide Josh gives Wendy a little physical encouragement. Photo: Timothy Baker

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

If the toes of Doug’s shoes give out, I’m wearing him. Photo: Timothy Baker

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

From below, we could see the early group on the last section of the climb. Photo: Timothy Baker

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

Wendy uses a natural foothold where there weren’t any rungs. Photo: Timothy Baker

We probably took a little more time than most groups because I didn’t want to unnecessarily stress my knee or my wife. The final “push” to the top of the trail—at 7,160 feet—was straight up. As we cleared the top of the trail, it was a little weird to see all the people who had ridden the chairlift up.

Via Ferrata whistler mountain

The summit. The views were our reward. Photo: Timothy Baker

Typically we are them: mere passengers in our adventure travels. This time, though, we had gotten up there the hard way—and it gave us a sense of accomplishment that is rare. We also felt relief that (1) we were coming back with the same number of (un-mangled) kids we’d started with. (2) I didn’t need to be winched off the mountain because of my knee. (3) None of my cameras had smashed into the rocks. This was Alpine Climbing 101 and a great introduction to a sport I will never take up.

In the end, the Via Ferrata turned out to be a wonderful family experience—and probably yielded our 2015 Christmas card photo. Yes, we had sore muscles, but we were able to soothe them that night with umbrella drinks in the Fairmont Chateau Whistler’s hot tubs.

From now on, when we hear of a ski or mountain-bike competition at Whistler, we’ll smile to ourselves and think: We conquered that mountain!

Need to know:

Via Ferrata can be found all over the world.

Bring a wide-angle lens and wear your camera strap so that the camera won’t smash against the rocks.

Bring a light jacket or windbreaker. The weather can get a little chilly at the summit, even when it’s warm down in the valley.

Hiking boots are very useful, but 11-year-old Doug had no problems with a harder soled sport shoe.

Long pants are a good idea. They can handle scrapes better than your skin.

Go at your own pace. Take the afternoon trip so you are not worried about holding up another group. You may want to hire a guide for a private tour.

Bring a bottle of water. If the streams are running, empty out the bottle and refill with that delicious water.

We left our sandals and comfortable shoes at the Alpine Guides hut. Nice to get off our boots and put those on after the climb.

Light gloves are suggested. The safety cable can have a few burrs in it, and you may find yourself grabbing it.

Use the bathroom before you start.

Don’t forget to enjoy the magnificent panoramas.

Where to Travel in 2015: 10 Up-and-Coming Destinations

Figuring out your next great trip is one of the best problems anyone could have: The world is big, and the possibilities seem limitless. To help you decide, we went straight to the sources: the travel experts who live and work in the most interesting places around the world. Whether your goal is to immerse yourself in history, indulge in food and drink, or lie on a beach, these are the up-and-coming hot spots to do it in next year.

1. Porto Heli, Greece

Porto Heli is a small seaside village where many Athenians have their summer houses. Thanks to a combo of serene views (beautiful beaches line stunning blue waters) and a cosmopolitan sensibility (luxe private yachts fill the marina and upscale hot spot Spetses is ten minutes away), the town is gaining a lot of attention. Situated on the eastern part of the Peloponnese peninsula, it can be easily reached either by sea (two hours by hydrofoil from Piraeus harbor) or by land (two and a half hour drive from Athens). Once there, two new luxury properties—the Aman Amanzo’e and the Nikki Beach Resort & Spa—are catering to those without summer homes.

To plan a trip, Ask Wendy.

2. Fez, Morocco

 

Photo by Deborah Dunn

Photo by Deborah Dunn

Fez is the long overlooked sister to Marrakech. It has long been the heart of Moroccan culture, and always a traditional and conservative city, but it’s now becoming hip and chic due to a startling new infusion of energy. On the way for Fez: a new airport (set to open in spring 2015) with flights coming in from major European cities. Already there: The new five-star Sahrai Hotel and Karawan Riad. Food is in the spotlight there as well, thanks to a chef-in-residence program at Restaurant Numero 7, which will feature kitchen stars from around the world throughout 2015.

To plan a trip, Ask Wendy.

 

Surfing -Tel Aviv-Israel-cr-Dana Friedlander-1000x667

Tel Aviv

3. Tel Aviv, Israel

Twenty years ago you could not find one decent boutique or five-star hotel in Tel Aviv, nor could you get a decent meal other than hummus and falafel. That has all changed. The Tel Aviv area now boasts five-star and boutique hotels along the Mediterranean shoreline, celeb-chef restaurants for every taste, world-class museums, and vibrant nightlife (including a lively LBGT scene, especially during Pride). The newest and hippest neighborhood in Tel Aviv is actually one of the oldest: Sarona. Founded in 1870 by German Evangelical Christians and abandoned in 1939, this restored 19th-century neighborhood is now lined with boutique shops, bars and restaurants of the moment. On the hotel front, two new buzzy additions are The Norman, a hotel in a pre-Bauhaus 1920s building, and The Market House in Jaffa’s ancient surroundings.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Joe Yudin.

 

Madrid

Madrid

4. Madrid, Spain

Foodies should look beyond Catalonia’s El Celler de Can Roca this year and put Madrid on their must-eat list. Five of the city’s restaurants were awarded their first Michelin stars this year, bringing the number of starred eateries to eight. Mohawk-wearing, multi-pierced chef David Muñoz is often thought of as the inspiration behind Madrid’s new edgy flavor, with his eccentric Spanish-meets-Asian eatery DiverXo (and its three Michelin stars), but now he has plenty of company. Two new food markets are catering to hungry crowds: Platea, a collection of tapas restaurants in an old cinema space, and the three-floor Mercado de San Ildefonso, filled with food stands. Even the new five-star Hotel Urso is getting in on the act: Its pop-up restaurant, The Table, invites up-and-coming chefs from around the world to show off their kitchen skills for a few weeks at a time.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Virginia Irurita.

 

Sanctuary Ananda river boat

Sanctuary Ananda river boat

5. River cruises in Southeast Asia

A few years ago Myanmar emerged from five decades of political oppression to welcome tourism—and this has boosted interest in exploring the rivers of Southeast Asia. On the banks of Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River, the Bagan Archeological Zone features an impressive concentration of more than 2,000 pagodas and temples. Along the Mekong River in Vietnam and Cambodia, travelers can experience traditional villages and bustling cities, as well as Angkor Wat. With the boom in luxury cruise itineraries and the introduction of intimate modern riverboats—such as the Orcaella (sailing Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River), the Sanctuary Ananda (custom-built for the Ayeyarwady using traditional materials), the Aqua Mekong (five-star luxury and one-Michelin-starred food along the Mekong River), and the Jahan (exploring Vietnam and Cambodia in the company of National Geographic experts)—travelers no longer have to be on the backpacker circuit to explore these lesser-known corners of Southeast Asia.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Ashton Palmer.

 

6. Alacati, Turkey

Alacati is a quaint, small town on Turkey’s Aegean Coast, and it’s still more popular with locals than with tourists. Wander among the narrow streets and stone houses, shop the markets and boutiques, hit the cafés and restaurants…and if you want beaches, Alacati has that covered too: The shoreline here is some of the most beautiful in Turkey. The new Alavya hotel—a collection of six unique houses situated around a small modern pool and a swatch of lawn—completes the destination.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Karen Fedorko Sefer.

 

Registan Square

Registan Square

7. Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Located along the Silk Road in northeastern Uzbekistan, Samarkand has a history that goes back more than 2,000 years. UNESCO has recognized it as a crossroads of culture, the site of the 7th-century BC city of Afrosiab, an 8th-century mosque, a medieval city from the 14th century, and more. Registan mosque and its surrounding square are the city’s most iconic monuments, but certainly not the only draw. Though there are many archaeological treasures here, a bustling modern city surrounds the historical center. There’s now a high-speed train and frequent flights from Tashkent, plus many new restaurants and hotels.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Zulya Rajabova.

 

Kayaking in Tortuguero National Park

Kayaking in Tortuguero National Park. Photo by Sergio Pucci/Courtesy Costa Rica Expeditions.

8. Tortuguero National Park region, Costa Rica

Multigenerational family travel is not a new trend, but the types of destinations that families are traveling to continue to shift and surprise us (even wine country can be kid-friendly). Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica is one of those places, and despite its remote location (you must travel to the region by boat or light aircraft), the number of travelers heading there has skyrocketed lately. One possible explanation: This particular spot provides an unusual combo of seclusion…and Internet access! Kids may be happy kayaking down the creek, but they’ll be even happier when they tell their friends about it.

To plan a trip, get in touch with Priscilla Jiminez, one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Costa Rica.

 

National Museum of Australia. Photo courtesy Tourism Australia

National Museum of Australia. Photo courtesy Tourism Australia

9. Canberra, Australia

Canberra is often overlooked as a city of politicians and school excursions, but it is fast emerging as a colorful tourism destination. In October it was named the best city in the world to live in—in a report by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development—and a variety of hip and quirky openings have made Australia’s capital city seem cool again. Ovolo Nishi is a design-centric collaboration between artists, creative firms, and makers. Both the QT Canberra and the Peppers Gallery were updated and renovated into boutique-style properties this year. On the food front, Peppers has a locally acclaimed restaurant (along with about nine other city spots recently identified as buzzworthy by The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide), and there are 33 wineries within a 35-minute drive of the city. Neighborhoods are being revitalized left and right, from the arty New Acton district to the hipster haven of Lonsdale Street, lined with bars and restaurants. And several new attractions have arrived recently: the National Arboretum, the National Gallery of Australia, and the Centenary Trail, which winds through Canberra’s urban and rural landscapes.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Stuart Rigg.

 

10. Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Until recently, Zimbabwe was perceived as unsafe: Political and economic troubles made tourists think twice. But Zim is back. It’s safe for travelers (not to mention less expensive than neighboring countries), and the place to visit is Hwange National Park, one of the most renowned wildlife areas in Africa. Home to the country’s largest population of elephants and more than 100 species of mammals, it’s also the site of a fabulous new camp scheduled to open in May 2015. Linkwasha Camp—comprised of just seven luxury tents overlooking an active waterhole— will be situated close to the Ngamo Plains, an area known for fantastic game viewing, which you can experience up close, day or night, with private guides.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Cherri Briggs.

 

Where are you headed in 2015? 

Royal Palace Madrid Spain

Madrid Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

Sometimes you just can’t avoid an airport layover. When you find yourself facing a long one, use it as an opportunity to add a great day trip to your vacation plans. It’s easier than you think to escape the airport for a few hours and get a taste of the cultural capital in which you’ve landed. In this series, we talk to experts in some of the world’s most popular airport hubs to get their suggestions for how to make the most of your time on the ground. For Madrid, we asked the city mavens at Context Travel to whip up a few itineraries for those passing through.

The Basics

How to get out of the airport: Madrid city center is just 12 kilometers from the airport, so you won’t waste too much time in transit when you could be exploring the city or savoring a delicious Madrileno meal. These are your options for getting out and getting back.

Taxi: A taxi to the city center is your most expensive but arguably the most convenient option. It will cost you 30 euros (about $38), which is a flat rate adopted by all official taxi companies. Count on 20 to 25 minutes of travel time, and more during rush hour.

Metro: You can access the city metro from terminals T2 and T4. It runs about every five minutes, from 6 a.m. to 2 a.m. It’ll take you about 12 minutes to get to the city center (more if you have to switch to a different line). Single-journey tickets are between 4.5 euros and 5 euros  (about $6), depending on your final destination, and they can be purchased in the metro station (www.metromadrid.es/en).

Bus: Airport bus 200 runs from 6:36 a.m. to 11:45 p.m. Tickets can be purchased on the bus, cash only, for 5 euros each way. Expect 40 minutes travel time, making this the slowest method of transport.

What to do with your luggage: Lockers are available to rent, in 24-hour intervals, in terminals 1, 2 and 4. Cost varies by locker size (small 4.22 euros, medium 4.82 euros, large 5.42 euros), and additional lockers are available for suitcases, bicycles, guitars, and other large objects.

 

If You Have a 7-Hour Layover

Taking into account airport security, baggage claim, travel time from and to the airport, and arriving back at the airport two hours before your next international flight, this option gives you approximately four hours in the city.

First-time visitors to Madrid should plan a stroll through the city center and historical district. Start at Puerta del Sol, the heart of the city, with arteries leading to the various barrios. Admire the square’s large city hall building, then make your way toward the Opera House and the Royal Palace, which you can gaze at over coffee on one of the peaceful terraces just behind the Opera House. Zigzag through the narrow streets to the Plaza Mayor, a regal 17th-century square lined with shops and cafés. If you still have energy, keep walking into the Huertas district and you’ll come to Plaza Santa Ana, where you can enjoy a beer and some basic tapas at one of Hemingway’s favorite haunts, La Cerveceria Alemana (Plaza Santa Ana 6; +34-91-429-7033, www.cerveceriaalemana.com/). If you prefer a guided walk instead, Context Travel offers an introductory historical walking tour in this area, Madrid Through the Centuries, led by a local scholar. Got kids in tow? Context has a special version of this tour just for families.

 

If You Have a 9-Hour Layover

Madrid is home to some of the best museums in the world. Spend your on-the-ground time surrounded by the creative genius of Velazquez, Titian, and Goya at the Museo del Prado (Calle Ruiz de Alarcón 23; +34-91-330-2800; www.museodelprado.es/en), or pay homage to Spanish history at Picasso’s monumental tableau Guernica at the Reina Sofia (Calle Santa Isabel, 52; +34-91-774-1000; www.museoreinasofia.es/en), which houses countless other modern masterpieces as well. Afterward meander through nearby 350-acre Buen Retiro Park. Finish your foray with a little window shopping in either the elegant Salamanca district or up-and-coming trendy Chueca before saying adios to Madrid and heading back to the airport.

How about a massage? High-end Spanish spa chain Elysium Travel Spa has an outpost in terminal 4 (+34-91-746-6280). The airport also has VIP Air Lounges, where you can shower (towel, slippers, and shower gel included), eat, watch TV, use Wi-Fi, and flip through newspapers and magazines (prices start at 25 euros). If you didn’t get any sleep on the plane, check out Air Rooms, which can be rented overnight or for three- or six-hour periods during the day (Terminal 4; +34-93-375-8600; www.premium-traveller.com/en).


More Layover Solutions:

Amsterdam Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

Beijing Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

Barcelona Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

Great Paris Hotels for an Airport Layover at Charles de Gaulle

London Heathrow Layover: Great Hotels for a Stopover at LHR

Tokyo Airport Layovers: The Best Way to Spend Them

Be a smarter traveler: Use Wendy’s WOW List to plan your next trip. You can also follow her on Facebook and Twitter @wendyperrin, and sign up for her weekly newsletter to stay in the know.