Istanbul In-depth: Insider’s Guide

The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Turkey: Earl Starkey of Sophisticated-Travel.

Trusted Travel Expert

Earl Starkey

Turkey has been Earl’s second home since he first ventured to Cappadocia 20 years ago. He opened Sophisticated Travel in 2002 to offer travelers tailor-made luxury itineraries with a wider array of cultural and culinary experiences than were typically available at the time. He now lives half the year in Istanbul but is constantly crisscrossing the country to stay abreast of the latest hotel, restaurant, and gallery openings and to collect even more uniquely Turkish experiences that other travel firms don’t offer—say, a private cooking lesson in the home of a noted chef or access to a normally off-limits ancient ruin. Earl knows that a guide can make or break a trip, and he is known for handpicking only the savviest, all of them highly educated, personable, and accomplished in their own right.

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Where to Stay and Eat

Four Seasons Bosphorus. Photo: Four Seasons

Hotels worth the splurge
The Four Seasons Bosphorus is the best hotel in Istanbul. Book one of the Courtyard rooms or Palace Courtyard rooms, as they’re a third the price of Bosphorus-view rooms—you can enjoy the views of the water from the hotel’s huge terrace or the restaurant and save a fortune. Earl’s travelers receive a full American breakfast, either in their room or in the restaurant, a $100 food and beverage credit, and a one-category upgrade based on availability.

People also love the Park Hyatt. There is no view here, but the rooms are beautiful, and there is a lovely pool on the terrace. The hotel is in the Nisantasi neighborhood, which is one of the chicest areas of Istanbul. Earl’s travelers receive breakfast and a space-available upgrade here.

If a fabulous vista is a top priority, your best option is the St. Regis, also in the Nisantasi neighborhood. The rooms are wonderfully done and there’s also a Spago restaurant on the roof and a large spa (though no outdoor pool).

There is also a Raffles, with probably the most gorgeous rooms in all of Istanbul (and the largest, among the five-star options). Book one of the Signature Rooms, which have floor-to-ceiling windows that look out on the Bosphorus.

Restaurants the locals love
At Ciya Sofrasi, in Kadikoy, on the Asian side of Istanbul, Chef Musa Dagdeverin is a culinary archaeologist, unearthing long-forgotten Anatolian foods from all over Turkey and preparing them with the finest and freshest ingredients.

Savoy Balikci is a local fish tavern, and a favorite hangout among locals. Have whatever fish is in season—in winter, order the hamsi (fried anchovies). All the mezes are great, too.

Nrbizade Street, behind the Cicek Pasaj, has always been popular. There are lots of taverns here, and most of them are good, but Nevizade Restaurant is the most reliable.

Turks often like a simple place that serves international cuisine—pizza, burgers, steak. There are quite a few such restaurants now in Istanbul, and Big Chef is one of the best. You will definitely see mostly locals there.

Best brunch spot
Turks take breakfast very seriously—Turkey is probably the only place in the world where you will be invited to someone’s home for breakfast. The next-best thing is to have a long, leisurely brunch at Kahve 6. Try the cilbir, lush pide bread with a layer of spinach and two poached eggs, or menemen, a Turkish dish of tomatoes and scrambled eggs.

Meal worth the splurge
Mikla still leads the way with its Scandinavian/Turkish fusion cuisine. The food is world-class, and the views from the top of the Marmara Pera overlook the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus.

Dishes to try
Turkish cuisine is world-class, and there are many dishes worth trying, but one standout is hunkar begendi—said to have been a favorite of the sultans. It’s lamb served over an eggplant puree. Delicious! And the best place to have it is at Hunkar in Nisantasi. Also try the simit, a bagel-like bread covered in sesame seeds that is a Turkish staple for snacking. You can find vendors who sell them everywhere. And, of course the mezes, a myriad of small appetizers, are delicious.

What to See and Do

The Grand Bazaar, Istanbul. Photo: Pixabay/Engin_Akyurt

Don’t miss
The Asian side of Istanbul, which has many worthwhile places to see, including the beautiful summer home of the sultans, Beylerbeyi Palace, and the charming little village of Kuzguncuk, nearby; Kadikoy and its teeming markets; Bagdat Caddesi, Turkey’s Fifth Avenue, and Camlica Hill, which has incomparable views of the Bosphorus.

Don’t bother
Staying in Sultanahmet. Istanbul’s Old City, Sultanahmet, is no doubt beautiful, but it’s also very touristic and you miss out on the real day-to-day life of Istanbul if you stay there. It’s better to base yourself on the European side, where the hotels and restaurants are better. (Both the Old City and the European side are in Europe, but the European side is called that because the embassies to the Ottoman Empire are located there.)

Hidden gem
Rustem Pasa Mosque is a beautiful little mosque with Iznik tile that’s hidden down an alleyway near the Spice Market; it’s definitely worth searching out.

Cheap thrills
Istanbul’s parks are largely overlooked by visitors. Two local favorites:

Emirgan Park, which covers 117 acres and is home to April’s Tulip Festival and three lovely pavilions. The Pink and Yellow pavilions are in the Ottoman style, while the White, now a restaurant, is neoclassical.

Once the imperial gardens of the palace of Sultan Abdulhamit II, Yildiz Park is filled with plants from all over the world and has commanding views of the Bosphorus. A porcelain factory that was established there in the nineteenth century, during the reign of Abdulhamit II, is still in operation today.

Downtime
Take a ferry across the Sea of Marmara to lush and lovely Buyukada, the largest of the Princes’ Islands. It’s like going back in time: There are no cars, so you tour the island by bicycle or horse-drawn carriage.

A visit to the ancient St. Nicholas Monastery is considered a pilgrimage, but if the hill is too steep, you can rent a donkey to carry you up.

If you don’t spend a night at the Splendid Palace Hotel in Buyukada, at least go for a cocktail. Entering this 110-year-old gem is like stepping back in time.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

The souvenirs
Evil eyes, lanterns, and hookah pipes make perfect souvenirs and can be found all over the Grand Bazaar in a wide range of prices. Turkish towels are renowned the world over: Haremlique sells excellent ones and also has great linens.

You can’t go wrong at Armaggan, a magnificent store with unique and gorgeous designer items from Turkey.

I like Nakkas has excellent carpets and beautiful jewelry.

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