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Insider’s Guide to Costa Rica’s Natural Wonders and Rainforest Thrills
Some of Costa Rica’s best adventures take place in the treetops. Photo: Shutterstock
The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Costa Rica: Priscilla Jimenez of Costa Rica Expeditions.
Costa Rica’s wildlife has fueled Priscilla’s own explorations of her homeland, and it’s on display in the itineraries she designs featuring the country’s national parks and volcanoes. While her own family’s trips lean toward active adventures involving mountain biking, hiking, canyoneering, and whitewater rafting (Priscilla’s got two active sons), she is just as fluent in the many options for romance and serenity on blissful beaches and foodie exploration of farms and charming local restaurants. In a place where distances are short but the infrastructure weak, Priscilla is smart about utilizing private drivers, helicopters, and chartered or scheduled flights to make the most of her travelers’ precious vacation time. After nearly 30 years in the business, Priscilla makes sure that no trip detail is overlooked, and sustainability and safety are always key (she refuses to book most ziplines in the country because they aren’t up to U.S. standards).
Where to Stay and Eat
Best bang-for-your buck hotel
Of the many wonderful ecolodges on the Osa Peninsula, SCP Corcovado Wilderness Lodge, right next to Corcovado National Park, is a superb destination for nature lovers and offers some of the best food, service, and guides available in the area. Just a half-hour south of Drake Bay by sea, the lodge is accessible only via boat and offers an experience that combines luxury and sustainability in the middle of the lush tropical rainforest. The lodge, which sits on a 750-acre property, has 30 rooms, including ocean-view tree houses that provide direct views of Caño Island. The waters surrounding the island are some of the clearest in the country and one of the top three sites for snorkeling and diving in Costa Rica. And if this weren’t enough, you can see monkeys, tapirs, toucans, and sloths, among others, right on the hotel premises.
Restaurant the locals love
On Route 24, the coastal highway between Orotina and Herradura, there is a small, very simple place called Restauranticos. Their ceviche is among the best anywhere in Costa Rica. They have fish, shrimp, and mixed versions; the shrimp ceviche has a sauce of spicy tomato and lemon juice at the bottom of the bowl that adds a whole different dimension to the dish. Next, you must order their patacones. Patacones are fried green plantains, far better than French fries or anything similar. At Resturanticos, they serve them with a bowl of frijoles molidos (mashed beans), another of pico de gallo, and a third of carne en salsa. Each person should get their own ceviche, then order a plate of six or ten patacones to share.
The hipster Cothnejo-Fishy Cantina is a local standout in San José’s Barrio Amón, a quiet neighborhood full of vine-cloaked lanes and hidden cafes. The cocktails are creative, the food is tasty, and the atmosphere is relaxed and super-cool. Amón is also home to a number of cultural venues, including the Alianza Francesa; Amon Solar, a concert hall built into a former mansion; and TEOR/éTica, perhaps the city’s most imaginative art gallery.
Located in Uvita, on the southern Pacific coast of Costa Rica and 45 minutes from Manuel Antonio, Seba’s is well-known for its rustic Argentinian cuisine, fire-cooked dishes, and delicious pizzas. It’s also celebrated for its sustainability, using locally sourced organic ingredients and house-crafted dairy products.
Meals worth the splurge
Restaurante Silvestre. Located in one of San José’s old neighborhoods, this special place has a great atmosphere and features a new approach to Costa Rica’s cherished cuisine, making use of responsibly caught fish, organic produce, and other ingredients from entrepreneurs who are passionate about their craft.
In San José’s Los Yoses neighborhood, Sikwa Restaurante is one of the very few spots where you can try indigenous dishes that celebrate the country’s vibrant culture. Chef Pablo Bonilla has travelled extensively throughout Costa Rica to study the diverse gastronomic heritage of the country’s indigenous communities. In 2023, Sikwa became the first-ever eatery in the country to be named one of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. As part of his commitment to the local community, Chef Bonilla has created a virtuous circle so that indigenous farmers and producers form part of the food-production chain, selling their ingredients not only to Sikwa but also to other restaurants in the capital. Many dishes are designed to be eaten with one’s hands, such as the tamal de yuca, made with creamed cassava, and the crunchy pork ribs.
You can’t leave Costa Rica without trying gallo pinto, traditional rice and beans.
Dish to try
Gallo pinto, or rice and beans. It’s usually fried with onions and cilantro, but many other things can be added. Not too long ago, most locals ate some version of this at every meal, but these days Costa Ricans prefer a more varied diet—though many still eat pinto at least a few times a week. A favorite place for it is La Posada de la Luna in Cervantes, on the road to Turrialba, which is also famous for its cheese tortillas. Be sure to check out their collection of old Costa Rican photographs and artifacts (the restaurant has been open since 1963). Soda Tala also serves a delicious gallo pinto in San José’s Central Market. Still owned by founder Natalia “Tala” Cervantes, this place has been in business for over 50 years. Their signature breakfast dish is Tala Pinto: a stacked plantain leaf, handmade corn tortilla, egg patty, and gallo pinto, all bathed in shredded beef and tomato sauce. Expect to wait for a table that you may end up sharing with someone else, but that’s a good way to get to know Costa Ricans.
What to See and Do
Kayaking in Tortuguero National Park is a wildlife lover’s dream.
Don’t miss
Tortuguero National Park. Priscilla’s company owns and operates the Tortuga Lodge & Gardens, which was designed to give travelers the best possible experience of this exceptional lowland flooded rainforest and its wildlife. This is also the best rainforest kayaking experience in Costa Rica: From your small craft it’s easy to see three species of monkeys, crocodiles, caimans, some of Costa Rica’s most elusive water birds, and the endangered great green macaw.
Don’t bother
You’ll find ads online for all-inclusive resorts in the Guanacaste region, claiming that you can visit the rainforest, hike a volcano, or go whitewater rafting on a day trip. In reality, these resorts couldn’t be further from the pulse of Costa Rica, and those “day trips” are 5am–8pm affairs that will leave you exhausted! The all-inclusives are fine as long as all you want to do is relax by the beach.
Hidden gems
Golfo Dulce, on the south side of the Osa Peninsula. Golfo Dulce is a unique geographical accident of plate tectonics that created a gulf with a depth of nearly 700 feet. It’s the only tropical fjord in the Americas, and its waters host a large number of marine creatures: It’s possible to observe dolphins and manta rays here almost year-round. From time to time, visitors can see one of the largest but most docile species of fish, the whale shark. Between August and October, you might spot a gigantic humpback whale on its annual migration. Several species of mammal inhabit the nearby rainforest, including monkeys, elusive felines (jaguars and such), peccaries, and the largest animal you will find in tropical forests: the tapir (weighing up to 700 pounds). You can also hike among a staggering variety of trees, bushes, and plants that flourish here, and a vast number of colorful birds, such as parrots, macaws, and toucans. To get to the region, fly into the port town of Golfito, then boat 30 minutes to one of the remote lodges on the gulf. Priscilla recommends Playa Cativo Ecolodge, a beachfront boutique hotel set in 1,000 acres of private rainforest surrounded by Piedras Blancas National Park.
Sloths may be slow, but they’re extraordinarily strong. Photo: William Grandados R. Photography
The Toucan Rescue Ranch was founded to rescue, rehabilitate, and release toucans. MINAE, Costa Rica’s wildlife governing agency, noticed the success TRR had with these birds and began bringing them various other species in distress. When a baby sloth named Millie arrived, TRR transitioned into a full-time, multi-species wildlife rescue facility that specializes in toucans, sloths, and owls. A visit to the ranch guarantees unforgettable memories.
If your dream is to see the quetzal and to photograph some of Costa Rica’s most brilliant hummingbirds, go to Paraiso Quetzal Lodge. You can sit at their feeders to photograph hummingbirds, have a private bird blind all to yourself, and stay for a couple of nights to trek on nearby farms where resplendent quetzals nest. A naturalist will show you the way, set up a spotting scope, and step aside so you can take in the scene.
Best for thrill-seekers
White-water rafting. Costa Rica is a narrow country with a spine of mountains down the middle. This makes for world-class rivers appropriate for all ages and abilities, with dramatic tropical scenery and warm water. Rated as one of the top rafting locales in the world, with Class III-IV rapids, the Pacuare River offers the best balance of scenery and level of difficulty for courageous first-timers to experienced rafters. Priscilla can arrange one-day float trips and multi-day adventures.
The Pacuare River Canyon is a world-class whitewater rafting destination. Photo: Costa Rica Expeditions staff
Beach worth the trek
San Josécito Beach, on the western edge of the Osa Peninsula, is gorgeous, remote, and little-visited. Hike from Drake Bay for four miles on the beach, through secondary rain forest, and past a tiny town with a school and a soccer field. Cross the Rio Claro, where there is a great swimming hole. If you don’t want to get wet, there’s a guy named Clavito who will take you across in his boat. The approximately four-hour trip brings you to a beach that is protected from the waves by a rock shoal, making it ideal for swimming. You can arrange a boat for the 30-minute return trip, and also to bring you a picnic. To ensure availability of boats, ask to schedule this hike when Priscilla plans your trip, or when you book a hotel in the area. (Don’t visit Drake Bay in September or October, when it rains even more than usual.)
Prime picnic spot
The gardens of Monteverde Lodge & Gardens. Just let the staff know that you want your lunch to go and they’ll prepare it in a basket, with a blanket alongside, at no extra charge.
How to spend a Sunday
Costa Rica has two national religions: Catholicism and futbol (soccer). Do as the locals do and go to mass, then a soccer game. There are churches in every town, usually on the central square. In the smaller towns, the soccer field is often on the other side of the square. After mass, many people will stay in the plaza and socialize for an hour or more. Stake out a bench and people-watch. If you see a long line, it is probably for snow cones.
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Best Times to Go
To a great extent, when to go depends on your interests and on which regions you plan to visit, as weather patterns vary widely. For instance, if your main reason to go is birding, the right time would be very different than if your main reason to go is white-water rafting.
For Pacific and Central Costa Rica, mid-April to mid-May (after Easter) is ideal. There are hardly any tourists. The mornings are usually crystal clear; the afternoon rains that signal the end of the dry season turn the brown forest to green in the northern Pacific and then cause many trees to come into fruit. This a time when many birds and some mammals give birth.
The Caribbean Coast has three seasons: very rainy, rainy, and least rainy. September is not only the least rainy, it is the least crowded, and the best month to see both turtle nesting and hatching on the beaches of Tortuguero. October is normally only a little rainier than September. It’s a great month for fishing, wildlife, and turtle hatching, but there’s less of a chance to see nesting.
Worst Times to Go
Christmas and New Year’s are the most crowded and expensive time of the year, and Costa Ricans—who are usually quite open with visitors—are too busy to have much time for strangers. Easter is almost as bad.
Biggest Rookie Mistake
Thinking that you can book a week at one of the high-end beach resorts in the northwest and take day-trips to see the rainforest. Costa Rica’s rainforests are farther down the Pacific coast and across the country on the Caribbean side. The beaches closest to them often have rough surf or steep approaches, and the resorts there tend to have fewer bells and whistles. Consider your priorities when choosing a beach resort, and keep in mind that covering even short distances in Costa Rica can be grueling (dirt roads) and expensive (internal flights aren’t cheap).
Must-Have Apps
WhatsApp is the go-to communication app in Costa Rica, and a great way to keep in touch with guides and drivers.
Google Translate does a decent job and can be used offline (though you must download languages first). That said, interaction with locals is a great way to learn Spanish!
International roaming charges can be quite high in Costa Rica, so if you plan to use your phone extensively, buy a local SIM card or an eSIM card. (You’ll need to have an unlocked GSM phone.) An eSIM allows you to buy, install, and activate a mobile service plan directly from your smartphone before you leave home. You won’t have to search for a SIM card provider once you arrive in the country, replace your physical SIM, or juggle multiple SIM cards while traveling. Kolbi ICE has the widest network coverage in Costa Rica, particularly in rural areas. Alternatively, you can purchase a local SIM card from a mobile provider at the airport.
The Souvenir
One of Sergio Pucci’s coffee-table books. Sergio and his father and brother have produced several tomes with some of Costa Rica’s best photography, including Costa Rica Aérea, which features one-of-a-kind aerial photos.
Can't-Miss Photo Ops
Spend two hours looking for wildlife with at least a 300mm lens in either the Corcovado or Tortuguero rainforest, and you will almost surely get a good shot of a monkey in the wild.
Rainbows are formed when sunlight shines through mist. The best places to see and photograph rainbows are near waterfalls, and in the Monteverde cloud forest area.
Tipping Tip
By law, a 10 percent tip is added to all restaurant bills. It used to be very rare for Costa Ricans to tip; now an additional 5 to 10 percent is more common.
Airport Intel
At San José Airport, don’t get into just any taxi. Before exiting the terminal, hire one from the Taxis Unidos Company. These are the orange taxis; unlike the unlicensed cabs, they’re safe, reliable, and will charge you the right price.
Don't Forget to Pack
Binoculars are essential for wildlife viewing, yet many people travel to Costa Rica without them. It’s best if each person in your group has their own, but sharing is better than not having them at all. The Nikon Monarch 8×42 is a decent starter option; get 7×32 magnification as a minimum.
A collapsible umbrella. If you use a poncho or rain jacket, you’ll be just as soaked from sweat as you would be from the rain.
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