Tag Archives: winter

rainbow umbrellas hover over a street of shops and restaurants in Istanbul turkey

Winter Is Europe’s Secret Season

Savvy travelers love Europe in winter—and not just because they can avoid the sticker shock and tourist crowds of peak season. It’s easier in winter to feel connected to local life, as it’s easier to meet the local people and see how they really live. More time may be spent indoors, but museums feel like your own private galleries, and it’s easier to get into the most in-demand restaurants for fabulous meals.

Insider experiences, charming scenery, and great food are all accessible and available, as the travelers below discovered, if you just know the right trip designers who can help you make the most of this cozy time of year. Here’s what it means to get a WOW trip.

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NORWAY: “We were in the middle of a herd of reindeer, admiring their beauty inside an Arctic wonderland…”

Traveler Julie Silbermann feeding reindeer in Norway.

Traveler Julie Silbermann spent a day with Sámi people and got to help feed their reindeer.

“WOW! What a trip we had to Finnmark in northern Norway! We can’t thank Wendy enough for connecting us with Jan and Miriam for our trip March 7-15. They crafted an exciting trip of one adventure after another. We flew to Alta, which is 400 miles inside the Arctic Circle, and stayed at the Sorrisniva Arctic Wilderness Lodge. It is remote and incredibly beautiful. We stayed in a room overlooking the river and mountains with floor-to-ceiling windows. We went dog sledding, snowshoeing, and ice fishing. We even caught Arctic char, which our guide, Kalle, expertly cooked for us inside our warming tent for lunch! We were very lucky to see the northern lights on three out of four nights, and Helle knew just where to bring us to see the spectacular light show.

One of our most special expeditions was spending the day with the Sámi people, helping them herd and feed their reindeer! We were in the middle of a herd of hundreds of reindeer, watching them and admiring their beauty inside an Arctic wonderland. Just an amazing experience. Big thanks to Trygve Nygard, Kalle, Helle, and Emilie for their special care on our expeditions. Everything was taken care of for us—there wasn’t a detail left to chance.” —Julie Silbermann

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VENICE: “Around every turn, under every bridge, were sites to behold and cause wonder…”

Marsha Friedli and her husband during their gondola ride in Venice on a foggy day.

Traveler Marsha Friedli said the fog during her gondola ride made Venice “beautiful and evocative.”

“WOW! A foggy gondola ride with guitar player and singer (part of our WOW Moment) was our introduction to Italy, specifically Venice, on Valentine’s Day. Around every turn, under every bridge, were sites to behold and cause wonder. The heavy fog made Venice so beautiful and evocative. We stayed at the Sina Palazzo Sant’Angelo Venice Hotel on the Grand Canal. Our room balcony was a perfect location to watch the water traffic comings and goings of daily life in Venice.

Another part of our WOW Moment was visiting the 1499 textile weaver, Tessitura Bevilacqua! My background is in textile and clothing so I was extremely surprised and pleased to experience this working factory/museum. Seeing the weavers work and delighting in their skill with the looms.

From Venice we went to Rome via the high speed train—fantastic way to travel! Our hotel for the next six nights was Martius Private Suites, just steps from the Pantheon. This was the perfect location as we walked to/from most of our touring sites and wonderful restaurants. What can we say—words cannot do justice to the art we viewed. From the Vatican to Borghese Gallery, from ancient to modern-day interpretations—magnificent! And our guides provided insight and details that cannot be garnered from a book or classroom lecture.

A very fun happening was taking a golf-cart tour in Rome! Just a fun way to scoot around and visit some of the sites! We visited the Trevi fountain during its cleaning session. The size is enormous and with it filled with water you don’t really get the scale of the fountain.

Our driver dropped us off at a private Art Restoration experience that Jennifer and her team arranged for us. This was a truly wonderful experience for me to actually see and watch a 15th-century artwork being restored. This was a private experience and we were able to ask as many questions as we wanted and get up close to the work being restored and yes, take pictures! This experience helped me to appreciate the art even more during our visit. Without Jennifer and her contacts we would not have had this truly memorable experience.

Another day we took the high-speed train to Pompeii. I had read many books/articles about this tragic and historic place. Our guide brought life to Pompeii/Herculaneum and we could visualize daily life.

Thank you Wendy for putting us in contact with Jennifer and her excellent team of guides. Her options of experiences and her thoughtful guides made this truly memorable.” —Marsha Friedli

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SWITZERLAND: ” The mountain regions are huge and you can ski all day and never ski every run…”

Ashley Point and family sledging in Grindelwald, Switzerland.

Traveler Ashley Point and family sledging in Grindelwald.

“Our family of five (two adults and three kids, ages 7-13) just returned from our ski holiday in Grindelwald. Skiing in Switzerland is different than in the U.S. Switzerland uses trains, gondolas and large lifts. There were mostly beginner and intermediate runs (with a few advanced runs). The mountain regions are huge, and you can ski all day and never ski every run.

Nina and her team listened to our desires for four solid days of skiing, with Switzerland culture and fun for the kids thrown in. We took a private sunset hike of Wengen with Weronika and tasted Swiss cheese, chocolate and wine by moonlight while overlooking waterfalls. Celio took us up a small gondola to a local fondue spot (eight tables in the entire place). We went to a private chocolate-making class and toured Interlaken while our chocolate dried. Afterwards we met up with Weronika again and raced down the slopes on sledges. We almost crashed several times, but it was wonderful fun, and we wanted to do it longer, but the lifts were closing.” —Ashley Point

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MALTA: “A tour of a palazzo by the baron (and knight of Malta) who owns it…”

St. John's Co-Cathedral in Valletta, Malta.

St. John’s Co-Cathedral is a one-of-a-kind Baroque masterpiece in Valletta. Photo: Timothy Baker

“Malta is an amazing destination and Damon and team were amazing in helping us plan it and making all the arrangements! They were instantly responsive to issues and random questions and their recommendations were always spot-on. We had an amazing tour of prehistoric temples (marking the calendar thousands of years before Stonehenge), had a private tour of the famous St John’s Cathedral (we were alone wandering through it and gazing mesmerized at the Caravaggios), a tour of a palazzo by the baron (and knight of Malta) who owns it giving a very unique perspective on their role in modern Malta, and an amazing cooking lesson with a local bakery owner. We kept several days for independent sightseeing but certainly many of the most amazing experiences were those arranged by Damon and his team.” —Regina Olshan

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SPAIN: “So many extra little details he put in place made my stay in Spain everything I wanted and more…”

Aerial view of ancient white Spanish hill top town Vejer de la Frontera, Andalusia.

Vejer de la Frontera is one of the famous White Villages of Andalusia. Photo: Shutterstock

“Wendy put me in touch with Iván, her Andalusia specialist. I had been to most of the World Heritage Sites in the area and therefore wanted to focus on architecture, gastronomy, viniculture, lifestyle, and the culture of the people in and around the White Villages.

The trip was amazing! Eleven days with seven different guides, each of whom was friendly, courteous, extremely knowledgeable and a pleasure to be with. Seville, Cadiz and Ronda were my country bases before returning to Madrid.

There was not one event Iván planned that was not exceptional. He even showed up at a small vineyard I was visiting to personally introduce himself and give me some wine that wasn’t available in the U.S. The immersion I had originally requested was handled perfectly. All the hotels, White Villages, restaurants, sights in the cities and guides were exactly what I wanted. Vejer de la Frontera was my favorite village, where I plan on returning for a few weeks next winter.” —Patrick Mackay

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FINLAND: “An exciting jaunt by snowmobile to learn how to ice fish on a frozen lake and then dog sledding on a snowy day…”

The cozy and warm Glass House Suite at the Arctic Treehouse Hotel in Finland.

Between adventures, this traveler warmed up fireside in his Glass House Suite. Photo: Traveler Michael Ruma

“My wife said she’d like to see the aurora borealis and, with Wendy’s help, we were quickly introduced to Leigh, who created a delightful week of fun in Finland.

We hopped an easy flight from Helsinki to Rovaniemi, which lies directly on the latitude of the Arctic Circle. An efficient, private transfer brought us to the Arctic TreeHouse Hotel. Met with warm blueberry juice, we checked into our Glass House Suite. Our room had a centrally located living room with an enclosed wood burning stove along with two bathrooms, one of which had our very own dry sauna.

Advised to download the Aurora app, we learned about the KP index, which predicts the probability of witnessing the northern lights. Fortunately, after dinner at the hotel, a notification from the app informed us at 9pm the chance was high! Intent on seeing the natural phenomenon, we bundled up and hiked up a trail to a 50-foot observation tower specifically designed for viewing the lights. Finnish myths say the lights are caused when a fox runs across the Arctic landscape whipping up snow from its tail, sparking the lights in the night sky.

Regardless of the cause, we were blessed by an hour display of a gray hazy line emerging in the distance and evolving into a bright green glow right in front of our eyes. As we watched and photographed the sky, the lights blew around us along our walk back to our room.

Our next two days were filled with other Arctic adventures which included an exciting jaunt by snowmobile to learn how to ice fish on a frozen lake and then dog sledding on a snowy day in the beautiful and vast northern Finnish countryside. We concluded our trip with a train ride from Rovaniemi back to Helsinki. On our last day in Helsinki, we splurged and dined at Restaurant Savoy.

We would happily come back to Finland for a future visit either in the winter to take in the unique night sky, but this time much further north, or during the summer to take in the lively and sunny long days in Helsinki filled with so much to see, taste, and do. Delighted by its vast country, small polite population, and compact capital, its seasonally focused food, and its matter-of-fact and kind people. We had such fun in Finland.” —Michael Ruma

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TURKEY: “Late December/early January turned out to be a great time to travel to Turkey…”

rainbow umbrellas hover over a street of shops and restaurants in Istanbul turkey

Istanbul can be just as colorful in winter as in summer. Photo: Tim Baker

Karen and her team did an excellent job planning our trip to Turkey. Late December/early January turned out to be a great time to travel to Turkey. It was chilly (although luckily for us, it was a few degrees above normal, at least in Istanbul) but the sun was shining. In addition, there weren’t large crowds, even at the most frequently visited sites.

We enjoyed the restaurants that Karen recommended, and appreciate that she switched restaurants between two evenings to avoid a traffic jam due to a soccer game being played along the route from our hotel to one restaurant.” —Susan Sullivan

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FRANCE: “We didn’t just tour this small museum; Philip arranged for the museum director to spend three hours guiding us through it…”

A colorful and old town street of Aix in Provence, France.

The winter light in Provence attracts painters—and wise travelers. Photo: Shutterstock

“Our two-week trip to France in December focused on Provence and the Riviera. Philip created a wonderful itinerary focused on memorable experiences and lesser-known sights. Philip suggested a glassblowing class in Antibes, and my husband and I made three glass pieces each. The Riviera has lots of museums, but Philip sent us to one of his favorites, the remarkable Museum of Classical Art in the hilltop village of Mougins. We didn’t just tour this small museum that intersperses antiquities with Old Masters and modern art; Philip arranged for the museum director to spend three hours guiding us through it. What an enlightening experience.

Philip also arranged black truffle hunting outside Salon de Provence, which was interesting and surprisingly educational. We had a delightful seven-hour private cooking class in Aix-en-Provence with a former chef who emailed us all the recipes for the dishes we’d made. We went horseback riding in La Camargue, the wetlands area south of Arles between the two branches of the Rhône River. La Camargue is famed for its white horses, bulls raised for French bullfighting (the bullfighters have to snatch a ribbon from between the bull’s horns, not kill it), and pink flamingos. We had fun riding through this region on the ranch of a former bullfighter and seeing the bulls and horses he and his elegant wife raise.

A don’t-miss experience was Hotel Mirande’s Table d’Haute dinner in Avignon. We dined in the hotel’s tiny cellar kitchen on a nearly all-French evening (except the chef and sommelier, who spoke English), which tested my vocabulary but engaged us with locals and Belgian tourists.” —Jan Heininger

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LATVIA, LITHUANIA, & BERLIN: “The scenery is beautiful and the capital cities charming…”

Aerial view of Trakai Castle in winter, in Trakai, Lithuania.

Once in ruins, the Trakai Castle has been restored to its 15th-century splendor. Photo: Shutterstock

“My family and I had a delightful trip to Vilnius, Riga, and Berlin thanks to expert planning by Leigh. I highly recommend the Baltics—the scenery is beautiful and the capital cities charming.

We had visited Tallin, Estonia on a prior trip and were curious to see the other Baltic capitals. Vilnius is a charming, Gothic and Baroque city with a sophisticated dining scene with numerous Michelin-starred restaurants. The shopping streets were lined with lovely shops. We enjoyed the day trip to Trakai Castle on an island and lunch at a local restaurant.

Leigh suggested a driver from Vilnius to Riga and a stop at the magnificent Baroque Rundale Palace in Latvia—Catherine The Great and other movies were shot here. We also enjoyed the lovely streets and sights of Old Town Riga. We walked the beautiful Art Nouveau architecture area of Riga.

We enjoyed history-laden Berlin. We only had two full days but Leigh’s plan of one day of a walking tour and the other driving tour allowed us to see quite a lot.

We had outstanding meals in each city—Leigh’s company has curated very helpful restaurant and sightseeing lists. I am always happy to use one of Wendy’s destination experts—I can relax knowing that we’ll see the sights, eat well and stay a in a well-chosen hotel—better than stressing and hoping things go well!” —Susan Sullivan

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VIENNA: “A tour of the second-floor chapel room (otherwise closed to the public) and the catacombs (also generally closed to the public)…”

Roof of St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna captured from above.

A savvy planner can get you special access to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, in Vienna. Photo: Julius Silver

“The guides that Gwen arranged were fantastic, especially Gertie, who provided us with great insight into Viennese life, both historical and modern-day. She was also quick to pivot and make sure we had the most fulfilling experience possible.

For example, when we arrived at St. Stephen’s Cathedral for our special tour on the rooftop, we were informed that the elevator was broken. My husband is claustrophobic and did not want to climb the narrow staircase to access the roof. Gertie arranged for us to instead get a tour of the second-floor chapel room (otherwise closed to the public) and the catacombs (also generally closed to the public). In retrospect, we think we enjoyed this experience more than we would have the rooftop tour.

On Gwen’s recommendation we stayed at the Hotel Sacher, where we received first-class service. We have stayed in many five-star hotels and have not received the same attention and personalized service that we received at the Sacher, and I believe being associated with Gwen was a big reason we were so well received.

We very much enjoyed the Spanish Riding School. Getting to see the stables and horses close up was a special treat. Indeed, other visitors to the School looked on with envy when we were allowed access to the restricted stable area, where many of the horses came up to their stall openings to greet us.” —Marla Strain

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ITALY: “The weather was mild and we were able to spend a lot of time outdoors…”

Serralunga d'Alba castle, medieval village in Piedmont, north Italy

The Serralunga d’Alba castle sits above a medieval village in Piedmont. Photo: Shutterstock

“We were so very fortunate to be able to experience an impromptu trip to Milan and the Piedmont region in early January—and we could never have done it without Jennifer. The trip was glorious. We went to a Barolo village and had the chance to visit a Barolo wine cellar for a private tasting and tour. Our guides in Torino and Milan were excellent, and we relished the opportunity to take in The Last Supper and other masterpieces with no crowds. Like NONE. In Piedmont, the weather was mild and we were able to spend a lot of time outdoors. We made some wonderful memories and cannot say enough about how this trip gave us a much-needed change to start the year.” —Gina Melton

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PARIS: “A fashion expert who took us to neighborhood boutiques featuring up-and-coming Parisian designers…”

Louvre Museum at night, Paris, France

Visiting the Louvre made one girl’s graduation dream come true. Photo: EdiNugraha/Pixabay

“This was a trip for our daughter’s college graduation. She was interested in fashion, food and the Louvre. Jennifer did a great job planning our tours and making our dining reservations! We were very impressed with each tour guide—private 1/2-day tour of the Louvre could not have been better! We loved our croissant-making class and our chef was fabulous. We were pleasantly surprised with our tour of the Dior museum—so unexpected and maybe one of our most favorite things. We had the museum to ourselves and our guide was fantastic! Jennifer secured a fashion expert who took us to neighborhood boutiques featuring up-and-coming Parisian designers and this was a real treat! We loved meeting the shop owners and we felt like locals shopping for the afternoon.

Each and every restaurant reservation that Jennifer procured provided the best table in the restaurant with amazing views of the Eiffel Tower. One of the restaurants surprised us with a sparkler in my daughter’s dessert, which was so fun.” —Kim Brown

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SICILY: “Getting to know Sicilians—over good conversations, culinary experiences, archaeology hikes, food and wine—was the highlight of the entire trip…”

Sicily coastline Italy

Sicily, according to this traveler, is a “stunning, fascinating, history-filled island.” Photo: Pixabay/kirkandmimi

“We are just back from an AMAZING, perfectly planned and executed trip to Sicily. Marcello is the gold standard of travel planners. He created a perfectly curated, balanced itinerary and checked in daily to make sure all was going smoothly. We could not have covered as much as we did (in nine days) without having private drivers, who were excellent. We covered a lot of ground in Sicily with a full schedule each day, but somehow it never felt rushed.

While January might not be the ideal time to visit Sicily (with the weather less than cooperative!), we saw, learned, engaged, and met wonderful people all along the way—from Palermo and surrounding towns Monreale, Castelbuono, Cefalu to Villa Romana del Casale, Agrigento, Testa dell’Acqua, Noto, Siracusa/Ortigia to Mt Etna. More than anything, getting to know Sicilians—over good conversations, culinary experiences, archaeology hikes, tours, food and wine—was the highlight of the entire trip.

Perhaps the highlight of many highlights was the final day at Mt. Etna guided by Salvo (a volcanologist) followed by our visit to the Santa Maria La Nave Winery for a tour, wine tasting, and lunch hosted by Vera and Carmello. They epitomized the warmth, welcome and pride of purpose we found every day during this first visit to Sicily. We look forward to returning soon to this stunning, fascinating, history-filled island.” —Barbara Gross

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HUNGARY & POLAND: “On the Danube, a private boat to see the lights of nighttime Budapest…”

HUngarian Parliament building lit up at night, viewed from the Danube River Hungary

Budapest’s monuments light up after dark. Photo: Leonhard_Niederwimmer/Pixabay

“In Krakow, our private tour of Auschwitz-Birkenau was so moving and impactful. Our guide’s father was a survivor of Auschwitz, and it was humbling to have him share with us. In Egar, we had a fantastic meal at the beautiful castle restaurant, with Hungarian wines paired to our various courses—the best meal of the trip! On the Danube, we took a private boat to see the lights of nighttime Budapest.

I appreciated Gwen being willing to make changes for us as we moved through the itinerary. It was such a relief to know the logistics were handled and we had someone on call should anything change or become difficult.” —Sarah Wade

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PORTUGAL: “In the Alentejo we experienced an outstanding lunch with a wine pairing, horseback ride, cork factory and hikes…”

The river Guadiana and the village of Mertola. Alentejo Region. Portugal

The Guadiana River and the village of Mértola in the Alentejo region of Portugal. Photo: Shutterstock

“This was a special trip to celebrate our son’s graduation from college. WOW! What an amazing trip Gonçalo and Joanna planned for us. The accommodations that they chose for us were fantastic: very unique and customer-oriented. The destinations and route they planned—from Lisbon to the Alentejo region and the West Region—were perfect. Our driver, Sandru, was amazing and went above and beyond to make our trip very special.

We had a wonderful cooking class and gastronomic tour with Lara in Lisbon and even attended a Benefica Football game. In the Alentejo region we experienced an outstanding lunch with a wine pairing, horseback ride, cork factory and hikes. In the West Region, a full-day tour which included Obidos, Nazre, and Alcobaca. The details were taken care of for us, from tours to restaurant reservations, it was the best trip I have ever been on.” —Lori Bentley

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Brook in Norway in winter, posing at the Lofoten Islands, with snowy mountains, the Norwegian Sea and houses in the background.

Here’s Why Norway in Winter is Delightful

Even for a dedicated off-season traveler like me, I’ll admit that going to Norway in winter initially sounded like an oxymoron. Isn’t Norway a place best experienced in summer, when you can enjoy a broad array of outdoor adventures?

Well, I am here to report that I had a fabulous 10 days in the country this past November, on a trip dreamed up by WOW Lister and Norway native Torunn Tronsvang. I discovered that it’s a brilliant destination in late fall and winter. Here’s why—based both on my own experience and on the reviews that we’ve received from your fellow travelers who planned their trips the WOW way:

You can still do many of the same things that you’d do in summer.
One of my trip’s highlights was cruising through a fjord on a private yacht. Cozily bundled in coats and hats under blankets provided by the captain, my husband, son, and I gazed up at a sheer rockface to one side of the boat, a gentler slope covered with a powdered-sugar dusting of snow to the other, and wisps of clouds lit up by the afternoon sun. During our entire time in Lysefjord, not a single other vessel came into view. Other days brought similarly quintessential Norwegian experiences—hiking a beautiful mountain trail, eating cinnamon rolls and other local delicacies, driving gorgeous coastal routes. Indeed, it is the Nordic spirit to carry on no matter the elements: We saw plenty of locals snuggled up under blankets and heat lamps outside bars and restaurants, and even playing golf when the temperature was in the high 30s.

Brook and the family sitting on orange chairs on a private yacht, overlooking the Lysefjord and the mountains.

Brook and family aboard a private yacht in Lysefjord, Norway. Photo: Helge Ljones

Despite all of Norway’s natural beauty, one of my favorite afternoons was spent indoors, making cheese with a farmer. It was truly hands-on: We donned hairnets, rinsed our arms in whey up to our elbows, and then plunged them into a vat to gather the curds. Since we’d caught the farmer at a quiet time of year, he was happy to spend several hours with us. I left having a far better appreciation for the artisanal cheese-making process—and convinced that it should cost $100 a pound, given the work involved!

Brook breaks up the cheese curds at a cheese farm in Norway.
Brook breaks up the cheese curds during a cheesemaking class at the Lofoten Gårdsysteri cheese farm.
Brook and son Zeke packing cheese curds into rounds.
Brook and son Zeke pack the curds into rounds.
Brook’s son Zeke flipping over a fresh cheese round.
Zeke flips over a fresh round.
Hugo shows Brook a round of goat cheese flavored with local seaweed.
Farmer Hugo shows Brook a round of goat cheese flavored with local seaweed.

 

You can have the iconic sights largely to yourself.
Last year was Norway’s busiest ever for cruise travel, but most ships visit over the summer. I didn’t see a single cruise ship while I was there—nor, for that matter, any large groups of tourists. (This traveler similarly enjoyed a quieter experience of the Flam Railway, one of the country’s most famous train lines, in late fall.)  The most popular spot on my itinerary was Pulpit Rock, which juts out over Lysefjord and provided the backdrop for the climatic fight scene in Mission: Impossible—Fallout. During the summer, 6,000-7,000 people a day hike the 2.5 miles each way to the lookout, in “two long conga lines” that my private English-speaking guide described simply as “pandemonium.” In contrast, we saw only a handful of people on the day we visited and even had the iconic spot all to ourselves for some time.

Brook posing in front of Pulpit Rock above Lysefjord with showy mountains in the background.

Brook in front of Pulpit Rock above Lysefjord, Norway. Photo: Erlend Berne

You can see the northern lights.
Sightings of the aurora borealis can happen in Norway from late August through March. WOW List travelers have combined northern-lights viewing with ice fishing and snowshoeing in February, and with dogsledding and meeting the Sami people in March. The advantage of seeing them in November, I found, was that I didn’t have to wait until the wee hours for total darkness: I saw the northern lights twice, both times around 7 p.m.

Brook with the northern lights in the background at the Hattvika Lodge.

Brook takes in the northern lights from Hattvika Lodge in the Lofoten Islands. Photo: Ryan Damm

When the days are short, the light is gorgeous.
Above the Arctic Circle, the days constrict quickly in November, going from seven hours of sunlight early in the month to just two and a half by the end. What those numbers obscure is the quality of that light—with the sun always low on the horizon and high clouds often adding texture, it’s nearly impossible to take a bad photo—and the additional periods of dawn and dusk when you can still be exploring outdoors.

That said, if you want more sunlight, go in late February or March, when the days are roughly equivalent to what you get in the United States.

The limited daylight forces Type-A travelers to slow down.
I’m a no-FOMO kind of traveler. Do I usually cram in too much? Probably. So I actually came to appreciate the dark morning and afternoon hours of Norway’s off-season. It forced me to slow down both body and brain. It helped me start to understand the Norwegian way of life. It made room in the day for my family to play board games, stoke a fire in our cabin’s fireplace, or relax together in a hot tub. (My adolescent son was also thrilled that this was the rare trip on which he was allowed to sleep in.)

Norway’s weather is changeable at any time of year.
You can get a rainy day with 50-degree temperatures in July just as easily as in December; sweaters and raingear are essential items even in summer. The day before the worst storm that I encountered in my travels, another group had been sea-kayaking in the same spot on water that they described as glass-smooth. You wouldn’t know it when the schools shut down the next day due to sideways-pelting rain, but our private guide ably pivoted our itinerary from the intended hike to instead visit a not-yet-open-to-the-public fishing museum created by her uncle. And that was the only day of the trip when the weather forced a change in our plans.

It’s a winter wonderland.
As a Californian who lives far from snow, encountering it during our trip was a plus. You may not feel the same if you have to shovel it off your front path every winter, but the dusting of white—aided by the Christmas decorations in many cities and hotels, even a twinkling tree in our room at the Eilert Smith Hotel—made the trip feel like the kickoff to a cheery, festive season.

Brook on a hike to Pulpit Rock posing in the snow.

Brook goes off-trail to romp in some snow on the way to Pulpit Rock. Photo: Erlend Berne

There was snow in the hills we hiked near the southern coastal city of Stavanger (where temperatures were usually in the 40s, equivalent to New York City that month); up above the Arctic Circle in the Lofoten Islands, there was snow all the way down to sea level, and temperatures topped out at 35 degrees. But it was also the most beautiful place I think I’ve ever been in my life:

A landscape of the Lofoten Islands with snowy mountains, the Norwegian Sea and a rorbu house.

One of many picturesque spots in the Lofoten Islands, burnished with November light. Photo: Ryan Damm

Sidewalks and paths can be slippery; if you’re not sure-footed (and even if you are), a device like Yaktrax will be enormously helpful.

You can have your choice of accommodations.
Norway’s hotels typically have just a handful of rooms, so they book up six months or more in advance for the summer high season. In winter, you have your pick of places to stay (excepting the most popular northern lights-viewing lodges) and aren’t left piecing together an itinerary based on whatever availability remains. This is not the trip on which to be stingy about your accommodations, either: You’ll be spending time there in those darker cozy hours, so give yourself room to spread out.

Brook sitting on a wooden chair overlooking the Lysefjord.

Brook at The Bolder, a collection of cabins high above Lysefjord. Photo: Ryan Damm

You won’t miss your holiday feasts back home.
I wasn’t prepared for just how delicious the food was in Norway. Even when abrupt hunger pangs sent us to the first open restaurant, or a late-arriving flight made take-away in our hotel room the best option, we were served top-shelf meals, from a halloumi sandwich at a burger bar to legitimately spicy Thai noodles.

As a vegetarian, I tested the country’s commitment to local and seasonal ingredients—and came away impressed by the variety of produce I was served, from beets to celery root to mushrooms to kale, often flavored with pickled herbs. My husband enjoyed local lamb, reindeer, and of course, fish. This family enjoyed a fancy New Year’s Eve dinner at their Oslo hotel, followed by a midnight toast on the roof.

Carrot tartlets and fried mushrooms served on traditional plates.
Carrot tartlets and fried oyster mushrooms at Bellies in Stavanger.
Artisanal cheeses cut on a wooden board with beets, and other jams on the side.
Artisanal cheeses at the Lofoten Gårdsysteri cheese farm.
Dishes from the 10-course seasonal tasting menu at Hattvika Lodge's Fangst restaurant in the Lofoten Islands, Norway. Photo: Ryan Damm
Elements of the seasonal 10-course tasting menu at Hattvika Lodge's Fangst restaurant.
Bowl of mushrooms and moose and reindeer liver between rounds of porcini flatbread on a bed of smoking dry ice. Photo: Ryan Damm
A smoking bowl of porcini flatbread at Kvitnes Gard in the Lofoten Islands.
A bowl of hearty stew with veggies and beans served over mashed potatoes at Priekestolen Basecamp, near Stavanger, Norway. Photo: Ryan Damm
A hearty stew of beans and veggies over mashed potatoes at Priekestolen Basecamp.

 

Oslo’s many museums are ideal sanctuaries on short, chilly days.
The only time I felt truly cold during my trip was when the temperature in Oslo dipped well below freezing. No matter: I explored the city by hopscotching from one toasty museum to the next. I saw multiple iterations of Edvard Munch’s The Scream, the study in which Henrik Ibsen wrote his last play, and secret messages circulated by the Norwegian resistance during World War II. But my favorite museum moment was walking around and under the original Kon-Tiki raft with Liv Heyerdahl, whose grandfather Thor built the bamboo-and-balsa vessel 75 years ago and then successfully sailed it from South America to Polynesia.

Brook standing in Oslo's Kon-Tiki Museum beside Liv Heyerdahl, granddaughter of famous Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl.

Brook at the Kon-Tiki Museum with Liv Heyerdahl, granddaughter of famous Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl.

Intrigued by an off-season adventure in Norway? Here’s one more reason why the next few years are a good time to go: The solar activity that causes the northern lights to appear runs in roughly 11-year cycles, with the next peak happening in July 2025.

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Transparency disclosure: Some experiences described here were provided to Brook for free or at reduced rates. In keeping with our standard practice, there was no promise of editorial coverage in exchange: Complimentary or discounted travel never influences our reportage. All of these experiences are accessible to every traveler who uses Wendy’s WOW questionnaire. Thanks to Wendy’s WOW system, you’ll get marked as a VIP traveler.

 

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Wendy and sons at the Pont des Arts in Paris

European Vacations for Winter School Breaks

Hey everyone, Doug Baker here, Wendy’s youngest son. Mom used to take us to Europe during our winter school breaks (such as Paris, above) when I was growing up. Now, I’m a college sophomore, and when my friends talk about where we should go for March break, I tell them Europe—and not just to avoid the summer rush.

Europe feels more authentic to me in winter. It’s easier to be part of the local scene. The weather might be colder and the days shorter, but there are so many fun activities, opportunities, and foods that are totally different from what you will find in summer.

A lot of people ice skating on an ice skating rink in front of Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.

Ice skating rink in front of Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. Photo: Doug Baker

In winter, I’ve ice-skated on rinks from little town squares in Brussels and Bratislava to the Grand Palais in Paris and the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam (above). It’s a great way to meet local people! In winter, I’ve tried hot chocolate as thick and rich as a melted chocolate bar everywhere from Demel in Vienna to the ski slopes of Spain, and street food such as piping-hot kürtőskalács in Budapest, schupfnudeln in Germany, and this in Salzburg:

Doug at a pretzel and sweets shop in Salzburg, Austria.

Doug at a pretzel and sweets shop in Salzburg, Austria. Photo: Tim Baker

In winter, you must spend more time indoors, but museums and castles are more fun when you have them to yourself. I was able to do a scavenger hunt with my brother inside the Centre Pompidou in Paris that took us through every floor of the museum, and in Bratislava there was nobody in the ancient church, so I was able to play one of the world’s oldest pipe organs.

Most of all, people are much nicer to you in winter because the tourist crowds aren’t there to annoy them. It is much easier to have conversations and build connections with the local people. One more thing I tell my college friends when they suggest the stereotypical spring-break spots (and maybe I shouldn’t share this with their parents): The drinking age is 18 in Europe!

You’ll find more—and more serious—reasons to experience Europe in winter in the traveler reviews below. First up: A 19- and 16-year-old get educated in Eastern Europe about the Holocaust and Ukraine.

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Eastern Europe: “Making pierogi with Marta in her home…she told us how she housed eight Ukrainians for two months at the onset of the war…”

Travelers making pierogi in Krakow.

The Nury family learn how to make pierogi. Photo: Traveler Doug Nury

“The current state of our world is disheartening. Our March 2023 travels (arranged by a Wendy Perrin WOW List agent) took us to Israel as tourists, never imagining that seven months later, Israel would be at war with Gaza. Since October 7, our family regularly discusses the conversations we had with our two tour guides, Daphne (Israel) and Isla (West Bank) about the conflict and how both of them want a peaceful but fair solution. Through our vast international travel experiences, our family has learned to seek as many perspectives as possible, particularly from non-US citizens on domestic and international issues. As a result, we jumped at the opportunity for Gwen to plan an Eastern European trip over Christmas, not only to enjoy the Christmas traditions and markets, but also to hear the views of Europeans very close to the Ukrainian/Russian conflict.

Gwen’s tour guides were the best part of our trip. During our first four days in Budapest, Julia explained to us the devastating history of the Jewish population and how close to 500,000 citizens were murdered during WWII. She also arranged an enjoyable boat tour (the boat had heat!) on the chilly Danube, pointing out architectural landmarks on the Buda and Pest side, while cruising on the river.

Kate and Will Nury peek out of a secret stairwell in Prague's Strahov Monastery.

Kate and Will Nury peek out of a secret stairwell in Prague’s Strahov Monastery. Photo: Traveler Beth Nury

In Prague, our guide Christina spent the rainy morning with us inside the Strahov Monastery, an active monastery that houses the largest collection of Bibles in the world, and gave us a VIP tour of its two main halls, the Philosophical and Theological halls. In Poland, we toured Auschwitz privately with Wojtek Smolen, a tour guide with over 30 years of experience who had two family members imprisoned at the concentration camp. His narration and walking tour of Auschwitz and Birkenau was fact-based, with no political slant. The things I saw that day—the massive size and scope of the concentration camp, the vast piles of victims’ strands of hair, abandoned shoes and suitcases on display—will forever be tattooed on my brain.

Following Auschwitz, we drove back to Krakow and met Julie at the Krakow History Museum, which is located at Oscar Schindler’s factory, for a tour of Krakow before, during and after the Nazi occupation. The museum is well done and definitely worth visiting. Our final day in Krakow was spent making pierogi with Marta in her home. While rolling out dough, adding the fillings and pinching the pierogi before dropping it into the boiling water, she told us how she housed eight Ukrainians for two months at the onset of the war and is concerned about the conflict due to the proximity of Poland to Ukraine.

My husband and I hope that this trip punctuated the importance of visiting historical relics and learning from experts at the site about past events instead of watching a YouTube video for our teenagers (ages 19 and 16). It’s also essential to engage with people worldwide to gain insight on their perspective of US leadership and diplomacy.” —Beth Nury

To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Italy: “On our day trip to Florence we were able to attend a football match. That was wild!”

Enjoying a gelato cone in Rome.

Enjoying a gelato cone in Rome. Photo: Shutterstock

“There were six of us: me, my husband, our three children (15, 13, 10), and my mom. It was a lovely time to be in Rome because, while still busy, it was not anything like what we would have experienced in the summer months. The weather was perfectly moderate for walking around, between 55° and 60° most days. Jennifer listened so closely to what our interests were and how we wanted to divide up the trip between time in and outside of Rome. She developed the perfect itinerary, even paying attention to timing of morning excursions so as not to start too early after a late night.

While we enjoyed all of our excursions, the ones we enjoyed most were not the main tourist attractions. Collectively, we all loved the cooking classes: one a pizza and gelato class, and the other a pasta and tiramisu class. Perfect for all six of us! Our other favorite excursions were Pompeii, Villa Adriana on the way to Tivoli, and our day spent in the Jewish neighborhood and former Jewish ghetto. I was extremely pleased that Jennifer’s team only works with Jewish guides in the Jewish neighborhood. I think that is a very important detail. Having all private tours made it easy to adapt tour and timing to all of our needs, which is particularly helpful with three kids/teens.

Timing worked out that on our day trip to Florence we were able to attend a football match. That was wild! My husband and oldest son are HUGE sports fans. Even though the rest of us are not as much, it was still really terrific to be part of an event that is so important to European culture.” —Aimee Kleiman

To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Norway & Copenhagen: “We got to see the Christmas lights in Tivoli Gardens and took a ride on a wild roller coaster, wandered with some hot drinks…”

Kate Ogg and son Will see the northern lights from the driveway of their lodge in Alta.

Kate Ogg and son Will see the northern lights from the driveway of their lodge in Alta, Norway. Photo: Traveler Ryan Ogg

“My husband, Ryan Ogg and I (Kate Ogg), and our three children, Will (17), Charlotte (15), and Wyatt (12), went to Copenhagen, Denmark, and Oslo and Alta, Norway, from December 28 through January 6. Will is graduating from high school this spring, and so we let him choose the destination for a family vacation this year. He wanted to go someplace cold, snowy and dark, where we could do some fun outdoor adventures, and hopefully see the Northern Lights (which we had tried and failed to do in Iceland a couple of years ago).

It was a fantastic trip. Copenhagen was still pretty magical the week between Christmas and New Year’s, and we found some good restaurants despite a few of the ones we had hoped for being closed. We got to see the Christmas lights in Tivoli Gardens and took a ride on a wild roller coaster, wandered with some hot drinks, shopped and just enjoyed the festive vibe. The next day we started the day with a boat ride through the harbor and some of the bigger canals, which gave us a sense of the city’s geography as well as a lot of the architecture.

Oslo was all closed while we were there because it was both Sunday and New Year’s Eve, but a walk through the sculpture garden, to the Fram museum to see a polar expedition ship, and a chance to see the Nobel buildings and then along the harbor was a nice way to spend the day before a fancy dinner at our hotel (The Thief) and a midnight toast on the roof. On New Year’s morning in a snowstorm, we made it to Oslo airport and up to dark Alta. The Sorrisniva Hotel was fully booked by the time we planned our trip (August), so we stayed in a little fishing lodge in the woods, down the driveway from Tristin and Trine Restaurant and past some sled dogs.

It was absolutely charming, and best of all, the very first night as we walked out of our lodge to dinner, the sky lit up with northern lights that continued to brighten and dance until we gave up and went to bed. I credit our very dark spot in the woods for the fantastic viewing. Our adventures in snowmobiling, reindeer sledding, snowshoeing, and king crab fishing all showed us different parts of the landscape and culture in northern Norway, and it was just…magical. We truly loved it.” —Kate Ogg

To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Paris: “A trip fit for royalty…”

Louvre Museum at night, Paris, France

The Louvre Museum at night, Paris. Photo: EdiNugraha/Pixabay

“We had three weeks to plan a Paris trip with our adult children after our Israel trip was canceled. Jennifer, a WOW planner through Wendy Perrin, created a trip fit for royalty. We stayed in a gorgeous, boutique hotel in the Marais district and had private car and tour guides for the Louvre, Versailles, Chateau, Jewish and History Tours. We saw the Eiffel Tower with a private tour, the Dior Exhibit at the Foundation Giacometti, we had an amazing time.

Our WOW Moment started with a car picking us up at noon, taking us to an unknown destination which was a fabulous restaurant, Shabour. The owner told us that since we couldn’t go to Israel, this was a Jerusalem-Paris dining experience. We sat at the bar to watch the chefs prepare a delicious, fun, memorable lunch. It was awesome.

We had a concierge service at the airport on both ends, making it easy to maneuver. I can’t say enough about Jennifer and her staff who gave us a perfect trip in such a short period of time. We have traveled the world with Wendy Perrin’s WOW List. It is the best way and the only way we travel.” —Adrienne Goldberg

To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Austria & Czech Republic: “The cathedral tour was incredible! We were on the roof walking along the outside perimeter and inside the ceiling about the nave…”

Roof of St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna captured from above.

Roof of St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna captured from above. Photo: Julius Silver

Gwen planned a wonderful Christmas week in Vienna, Bratislava and Prague. Both hotels—the Sans Souci in Vienna and the Andaz in Prague—were great choices. Both were near the center but in a quieter area. The rooms, staff and breakfasts were lovely.

Our private guided walking tour of Vienna was enjoyable. The cathedral tour was incredible! We were on the roof walking along the outside perimeter and inside the ceiling about the nave. A truly interesting and unique experience. The food tour was fun and enjoyable: We went to five different locations and got to sample different Viennese specialties. We enjoyed the outstanding museums and lovely shopping streets. We loved the tour of the magnificent Schönbrunn Palace. Another day we took a train to Bratislava and were met on the platform by the guide who showed us this interesting city.

The train to Prague was easy. We walked everywhere in Prague—Old Town, Jewish Quarter, Charles Bridge, Wenceslas Square. The Strahov Monastery library and Prague Castle complex were impressive. We were so lucky that the line to the remarkable St. Vitus Cathedral was quick and we got to see it. The Lobkowicz Palace is a treasure—we could have spent hours there.

Gwen suggested terrific restaurants, including two outstanding meals at Michelin-starred restaurants Field and La Degustation in Prague. It was a wonderful vacation—the days spent in each location were just right.” —Susan Sullivan

To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Portugal: “Sitting on the patio watching the sunset over the ocean was the perfect end to the trip…”

A winter sunny day with clear blue skies at Riberira beach in Ericeira, Portugal.

A winter day with clear blue skies at Praia de Ribeira, Ericeira. Photo: Shutterstock

Goncalo and Sofia created an itinerary that was perfect for our family. And, they gave us a trip that we will always remember! Some highlights…

The hotels were AMAZING!! We typically stay at the same hotel chain when we travel and were so grateful for their suggestion of boutique hotels. Not only did they provide our family plenty of space, but they each felt warm and welcoming every time we walked into the room. My daughters LOVED the set-up and decor of The Lumiares hotel in Lisbon, stating they never wanted to leave. The Rebello’s views of Porto were breathtaking (unless the fog rolled in) and the access to an incredible running path along the water made it the perfect place for us to stay. Our final hotel stay at the Immerso was exactly what we needed after a very busy trip. Sitting on the patio watching the sunset over the ocean was the perfect end to the trip; we only wish we had a few days to explore the area. : )

The guides they found for us were exceptional!! The tours provided us with interesting historical and present-day content. They were all engaging and ready to shape the tours to match our family. Tiago, in particular, was amazing!! The tour of Sintra could have been a disaster due to the weather, and he made it one of the most fun with his depth of knowledge and witty humor! For a family who loves to travel, Goncalo could not have put together a more perfect trip for us.” —Shannon Jones

To get your own WOW trip, start with our trip questionnaire, reached via the black button below.

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Spain: “Traveling in January was surprisingly ideal! There were no crowds and the weather was comfortable…”

Placa Reial on a winter evening, not too crowded with people, Barcelona, Spain.

Placa Reial on a winter evening in Barcelona, Spain. Photo: Shutterstock

“We just returned from an amazing winter vacation in Barcelona and Lisbon. We traveled with our 2 college-aged kids and wanted to make sure they were as excited about the itinerary as we were. Luis and Silvia did a terrific job balancing all of our needs and interests.

Traveling in January was surprisingly ideal! There were no crowds and the weather was comfortable. We were able to see all of the popular sites without lines or overcrowding. Our favorite parts, however, were more off-the-beaten-path excursions. Silvia arranged for Alex, our tour guide through the Catalan neighborhoods, to cook paella and drink vermouth with him and his mother Lourdes in a flat with a rooftop deck. This was a highlight of the trip.

In addition to sightseeing and immersing ourselves in the culture, we were interested in recommendations for restaurants, nightlife, and vintage stores. Silvia provided detailed recommendations for each and arranged nightly restaurant reservations. Our favorite meal, a 17-course tasting at the Michelin-star Loco in Lisbon, was a very special night!” —Lisa Powers

This trip was arranged by a WOW List candidate. Here’s what that means.

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illuminated Christmas market in the Old town of Colmar, Alsace France

What to Know About Europe’s Christmas Markets in 2022

After closures due to Covid the past two holiday seasons, most of Europe’s Christmas markets are finally expected to fully open again this year. These festive traditions are one of the best reasons to go to Europe in winter: You can see cities and villages illuminated for the holidays and fill your evenings with charming street scenes: stalls where artisans sell handmade local crafts, open-air choral concerts, ice skating and rides for kids, and a huge variety of piping hot street food, from local delicacies to hearty winter comfort fare and endless mulled wine.

Another advantage of Europe in the late fall or winter is lower airfares and hotel rates than you’ll find in the spring, summer, and early fall.  While the weekends of Christmas and New Year’s can be crowded (especially with locals), November, Thanksgiving break, early December, and early January deliver low-season value.

Some of the most iconic Christmas markets are in Austria (Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck, St. Wolfgang), Germany (Munich, Nuremberg, Regensburg, Berlin), and France (Strasbourg, Colmar, Reims), as well as Budapest, Prague, and Krakow.

Here’s how to make the most of them this holiday season.

Go early or go late—because market dates are extended.

Many European Christmas markets are running longer this year than they have in the past.  This means you can plan your trip to avoid the worst of the crowds and air-travel hassle, while still getting an undiminished dose of all that holiday cheer and charm.

“Some of these Christmas markets that once had a firm closure on December 24th are now lingering longer—some into January,” says Gwen Kozlowski, a WOW List travel specialist for Austria, Germany, and Eastern Europe. Salzburg’s main market is planned for November 17 through January 1.  The Christmas market in St. Wolfgang opens early too, on November 18.  Those lasting through early January include Vienna’s Christmas market at Schonbrunn Palace (open through January 4), Innsbruck’s and Prague’s (open through January 6), Berlin’s Christmas market on Breitscheidplatz (open through January 8), and the Jardin des Tuileries Christmas Market in Paris (open through January 8).

Mix the bigger city markets with lesser-known ones in small villages.

Every country has its big-hit Christmas markets in major cities, but the holiday spirit can be especially charming in areas you might not have considered during the winter. In France, the biggest and most famous Christmas market is in Strasbourg, but you could combine that with Metz or with smaller markets in Provence or Champagne, suggests Jennifer Virgilio, a WOW List specialist for France.

Or you could make Colmar your base and visit smaller markets from there, such as Turckheim and Kayserberg, advises Philip Haslett, another WOW List specialist for France.

Combine more than one region for different experiences and flavors.

Nothing is really that far apart in Europe, and the train network makes for easy, quick travel. So take advantage of that proximity by combining a couple of regions into a mini-Christmas-market crawl, with stops along the way to enjoy Europe’s other delights.

“I like to do a Christmas market road trip and start in Paris, then to Reims which is easily reached—and a bit of Champagne is never a bad idea!” says Philip. “From there you can take a high-speed train to Strasbourg, which takes about 1h20; and after Strasbourg on to Colmar, 30 minutes by train or an hour by car, but with some lovely stops on the way for wine tasting and a visit to the iconic Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle.”

Last year Philip planned a Christmas-week road trip for WendyPerrin.com reader Margaret Harvey, who reported back to us:

“We started off in Geneva, Switzerland, where we kicked off our trip with a Christmas market that was across the street from our hotel. Our next stop was Gstaad, which felt like a winter wonderland. After that we drove to Chamonix, where we stayed in what was my husband’s dream spot at the top of Mount Blanc. It was truly something, we had to take the most charming red train to get to our hotel. The stars there were unlike we had ever seen. After Chamonix we drove to Fossano, Italy, where we visited a castle and stayed in a suite that felt as if we were in an old Italian romance novel. Next, we went to Monte Carlo, where our hotel key gave us access to the Monte Carlo Country Club. My husband is an avid tennis fan and this was really special for us. We stayed on the top floor and had the most incredible view of the city and water. Following Monte Carlo we went to St Paul de Vence, where we relaxed in a spa hotel with a Mediterranean influence. Next was Aix in Provence, where we stayed at a dreamy chateau. After that we went to Avignon, where we stayed across from the Pope’s Palace. We ended our trip in Paris on New Year’s Eve.”

Reader Richard Goldin enjoyed his late-December road trip too, planned by Jennifer Virgilio. He reported:

“Jennifer arranged for a rental car, all hotels and recommended events and restaurants as we drove from Paris to Strasbourg, Colmar, Dijon, Burgundy and back to Paris. Each hotel chosen was extremely well located. There wasn’t a hotel that we would not go back to. We thoroughly enjoyed all of the Christmas markets, especially in a small town called Kayserberg, near Colmar.”

Book through a local fixer who can monitor the situation on the ground and rearrange your plans if necessary.

There’s always the possibility that a market could close or that any of many other speedbumps that have affected travelers over the past couple of years could crop up and impact your trip. “Plenty of markets have said that they’re opening and have already listed dates and times,” says Gwen. “But it’s important to be flexible and ready to make changes if/when something happens.” Last year, when Christmas markets in Vienna, Munich, and Salzburg closed at the last minute because of Covid, Gwen rescued reader Sarah Wade’s trip, sending her to Budapest, Warsaw, and Krakow instead. Sarah’s report:

“Our original plan had us going to Munich, Salzburg, and Vienna for 9 nights in early December 2021.  As we approached the time to depart we began to get notices from Gwen that one by one each city was cancelling the Christmas markets, and eventually Austria closed down entirely. Gwen’s team was on top of it each step of the way. They offered us alternatives, and we settled on an itinerary of Warsaw, Krakow, and Budapest.

Our three city choices were great. Some highlights:
*the gingerbread cookie baking class in Warsaw was wonderful.
*In Krakow our tour of Auschwitz-Birkenau was so moving and impactful. Our guide was incredible and we were so fortunate to have him explain the history of this terrible place to us. We found out that our guide’s father was a survivor of Auschwitz and it was humbling to have him share with us. Guides really do make or break tours.
*A private ornament-making session with a renowned hand-painted ornament business. They were even so sweet as to bake us an apple cake and our guide along with the owner sang us traditional Polish Christmas carols as we decorated our ornaments and the snow fell outside. Quite the experience!
*A fantastic meal at the beautiful castle restaurant in Egar with Hungarian wines paired to our various courses – the best meal of the trip!
*A private boat on the Danube to see the lights of nighttime Budapest.

I appreciated Gwen’s team being willing to make changes for us as we moved through the itinerary. Even though this was not the trip we had originally planned, we ended up with a trip that we all enjoyed. It was such a relief to know the logistics were handled and we had someone on call, should anything change or become difficult.”

If you’re thinking about a Christmas markets river cruise, watch the water levels in the Danube and the Rhine.

This year’s Christmas market cruises are nearly full, despite the extensive drought last summer that caused so many challenges, says Tom Baker, a WOW List river-cruise specialist. Low river levels forced a number of ships to change their itineraries, dock far from the planned port city, or move passengers to different vessels or to busses for making the journey on land.  While operations on the Danube have picked up in recent weeks, Tom reports, “the Rhine is still in bad shape, with vendors switching out guests to sister ships to make the navigational points.” The forecast for late fall and winter is not clear yet, so watch water levels or consider waiting until 2024.  Tom’s personal favorite holiday itineraries: “The Danube when it operates as Vienna, Salzburg, Passau, Regensburg, and Nuremburg—they have marvelous Christmas markets as well as vast cultural enchantment. Budapest markets are not as exciting, but the city is incredible and not to be missed. I also love the Alsatian Christmas Markets on the Rhine in Germany and France!”

Beautiful beach landscape with overwater bungalows Gili Lankanfushi in the Maldives

Why You Should Travel Between Thanksgiving and Christmas

If you guessed it’s the window between Thanksgiving and Christmas… ding ding ding! The first two weeks of December are when tourists are relatively scarce, airfare deals and hotel offers are plentiful, and conditions are good for local activities, in many popular spots:

In Europe, early December is prime time for Christmas markets—such as the one that the WendyPerrin.com team strolled in Oslo—and holiday lights and concerts. In the Caribbean and Central America, rainy season is over, the sea is clear, and the snorkeling is great. In South America, it’s the start of summer. In Southeast Asia, the skies are blue and the landscapes lush. And holiday shopping is just more fun abroad, whether you’re in the artisan stalls of Vienna’s holiday markets or the cellars of Chilean wine country.

Experiences that some of you got to enjoy during the first two weeks of December last year included:

URUGUAY AND ARGENTINA: “We stumbled on a very good business-class fare from New York to Buenos Aires…”

Linda Shorey biking at estancia La Soleada in Uruguay.

Traveler Linda Shorey biking at estancia La Soleada past the “always-curious cows.” Photo: Traveler John Decker.

“We stumbled on a very good business-class fare from New York to Buenos Aires. Initially we thought this would be just a trip to Argentina. Then we saw how close Uruguay is to Buenos Aires—just a short ferry ride away! This eventually led to rural Uruguay being the focus of the trip.

Two estancias were identified, one of which offered an opportunity for Spanish lessons, as well as trekking, bicycling, and horseback riding. Estancias in Uruguay are working farms, and the home-cooked food at both was delicious.

Jordan highly recommended we stay at the Narbona Wine Lodge in Carmelo. It was a lovely, quiet place where one can walk or bike through the vineyards and surrounding dirt roads with almost no traffic. Uruguayan wines are very good, although almost impossible to find in the U.S. We loved the 100% tannats and red blends.

We also spent three days in Montevideo. It is a quiet city that provides great walking and biking opportunities of 15 miles along the Atlantic Ocean. Jordan’s team arranged a visit with Lobo Núñez, a world-renowned drummer who can make music using anything.

And we did spend three nights in Buenos Aires at a wonderful, tiny, boutique hotel that Jordan recommended, located in a quiet residential neighborhood with nice cafés where we sampled regional cuisine, local beers, and delicious flan.” —Linda Shorey

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BELIZE: “We opted to spend three nights in the jungle and four nights in the beach area…”

Laurie and Michael Schuftan having a picnic on a beach in Moho Caye, Belize.

Travelers Laurie and Michael Schuftan celebrate their anniversary with a beach BBQ at Moho Caye.

“My husband, Michael, and I had a wonderful time celebrating our 30th anniversary in Belize! We traveled from December 7th through the 14th. With Patricia’s guidance, we opted to spend three nights in the jungle and four nights in the beach area.

Our private villa at the Lodge at Chaa Creek was beautifully appointed and set amid the lushness of the jungle. Anniversary wishes, fresh fruit, and a ready-to-hatch butterfly pupa greeted us in the villa. Michael and I had limited time to take advantage of all the opportunities available. Still, we managed a night hike, a morning birdwatch tour, and a visit to the Butterfly Farm.

Our home for the last four nights was a gorgeous beachside villa at Naïa Resort and Spa. Again, we were greeted with anniversary wishes, flowers and balloons. We had a fantastic day on a private catamaran to Moho Caye, where we snorkeled and our guide Mike and Captain Leo grilled a delicious lunch on the beach. We found Belize to be an enchanting country, with its diversity of topographies and cultures and very warm, welcoming people.” —Laurie Schuftan

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VIENNA, BERLIN, PRAGUE: “My daughter was studying abroad in Europe, and we decided to meet in Europe at the end of the semester for a mother-daughter trip…”

Christmas market at Rathausplatz, in Vienna, Austria.

CHRISTMAS MARKET AT RATHAUSPLATZ, IN VIENNA, AUSTRIA. Photo: Shutterstock

“My daughter was studying abroad in Europe, and we decided to meet in Europe at the end of the semester for a mother-daughter trip. We didn’t know where to go, especially in early December when it would be cold! I specifically wanted a trip that wasn’t too busy to have time to explore and would also appeal to a fickle older teen who doesn’t love extensive sightseeing. Brook helped us narrow our options to Christmas markets in Central Europe and connected us to Gwen.

Gwen turned out to be the perfect choice because, also the mother of a teen, she understood exactly what I was dealing with! Gwen recommended a few itinerary options, and we ultimately decided on a trip to Berlin, Prague and Vienna, spending three to four days in each city.

Everything was amazing! Gwen’s guides took us on exclusive tours—that even my daughter found ‘cool’—of the library in the Strahov Monastery in Prague and the attic of St Stephen’s Cathedral, where we were able to sit in the Pope chair! We had requested centrally located boutique hotels so that it was easy to wander around and walk to restaurants, which is exactly what we got.

Best of all were the activities geared toward my daughter. There was a Christmas market tour in Vienna and jewelry making in Prague. She loved the guided vintage shopping in Berlin and the traditional-food cooking class in Vienna. Gwen’s planning checked all of our boxes so that both my daughter and I had a wonderful trip!” —Wendy Minocha

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COSTA RICA: So many animals come out in the rainforest at night, and with the right guide you can get really close…

“We split our time between the Osa Peninsula and the Manuel Antonio beach area. The Copa de Arbol eco resort Irene found for us on Drake Bay was stunning—very private, peaceful, only 10 casitas located right in the rain forest. We enjoyed private guided hikes and tours—a night walk in the rainforest around the resort, snorkeling off Cano Island, and a walk thru Corcovado National Park. The wildlife was amazing and so close—sloths, tapirs, tree frogs, toucans, and all four species of monkeys. The food at Copa de Arbol was top notch, and the staff all friendly, professional, and ready to help with any request. The highlight for me was the night walk—so many animals come out in the rainforest at night, and with the right guide you can get really close to them without disturbing them or putting yourself at risk.

On the second half of the trip we traveled from the Osa area to Manuel Antonio by boat and van with driver, to the Arenas Del Mar Beach and Nature Resort. The views all around this resort are nothing short of amazing, and our rooms were both spacious and beautiful. We did two private tours—one to the Manuel Antonio National Park and another to a local farm to learn about how coffee and chocolate are grown and produced. The farm tour was my favorite part of this leg of our trip, since we got to meet and ask questions from the family who run their own small farm outside Manuel Antonio. And we sampled the coffee and chocolate of course. The food at Arenas Del Mar was excellent, and the staff was just great—just the right balance of being helpful and nearby but letting us enjoy our time together as a family. A great feature of this resort is how private it is, while still being close to the more active areas around Quepos and the village of Manuel Antonio. Golf carts shuttle you in and out of the resort and also back and forth to the private beach.

My one piece of advice is to think about your priorities and communicate these to Irene. There is so much to do in Costa Rica that it’s easy to get overbooked. Irene really helped us pick the right activities (with the right guides), and the right number and schedule. I’d also recommend downloading WhatsApp if you don’t already have it. It’s a great communication tool used in many parts of the world. Our trip went very smoothly, but I had a few basic questions along the way and Irene was very responsive getting back to me on WhatsApp.

My family had a wonderful trip to Costa Rica and I can highly recommend working with Irene and her team if you are thinking of going there.” —Luke Merrow

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DANUBE RIVER CRUISE: Everywhere had fantastic Christmas markets, and my daughter and I had lots of fun wandering the stalls…

“My daughter and I just returned from a wonderful trip to Europe to experience the Christmas Markets. We wanted to do a river cruise, so we contacted Tom from Wendy’s WOW List and we are very pleased with all of his recommendations and arrangements. We went with Scenic Cruise Line and loved it! Truly all inclusive, the ship was very nice and comfortable, the food was fantastic and the staff outstanding! We started in Nuremburg and ended in Budapest, with daily stops in a variety of places. Everywhere had fantastic Christmas markets, and my daughter and I had lots of fun wandering the stalls and buying Christmas presents to bring home. I took Wendy’s advice and packed an extra duffle bag to bring everything home!

While in Europe, we wanted to do and see as much as we could, so we asked Tom to help us with arrangements prior to our cruise and for the day we returned. He set us up with a local guide in Prague—Dasha—who was wonderful. Very knowledgeable and fun! Our first day with Dasha was our WOW Moment, which was actually a full day of touring the old city and Jewish quarter. What a wonderful WOW surprise! She took us all over Prague while we were there, and on a day trip to Cesky Krumlov—a beautiful small medieval city with interesting history and great little local shops/restaurants. She arranged for a driver to take us from Prague to Nuremberg to meet our ship, which was terrific and hassle free.

We stayed an extra day in Budapest at the end of our cruise and Tom arranged another lovely local guide, Gabriella, to pick us up from the ship and show us around Budapest. She took us to her home for a traditional Hungarian lunch and then to the natural mineral springs baths, which was perfect for the end of a busy cruise.

I highly recommend Tom for any of your cruise needs as well as the pre and post excursions you may want to do. He was very easy to work with and listened to everything we wanted to do. It was a very memorable trip with my daughter and one I will always cherish.” —Robin Stone

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ECUADOR: The attention, service, food, activities and company were wonderful and quite personalized throughout…

Barbra and Eugene Hirsch horseback riding in Hacienda Pinsaqui, Ecuador.

Hiking and horseback riding—plus great food—were highlights of Hacienda Pinsaqui.

“My wife and I are in our 70’s and are experienced travelers so it means a lot when we can tell you that Allie did a fantastic job of planning and arranging our trip to Ecuador last month, December 3-19. We asked her to include time in Quito, the Andes, the Ecuadorian rain forest and the Galapagos Islands. She did it all with accommodations and guides that were exceptional.

We arrived in Quito late and stayed overnight at the beautiful Wyndham Airport Hotel, from where we were picked up the next morning by Christina, our guide, and a driver who took us via some scenic stops at mountain lakes, a condor park, street markets, a weaving factory, and a wonderful lunch to our destination at Hacienda Pinsaqui. It is a beautiful large home and ranch where we stayed for 3 nights enjoying history, hiking, horseback riding and great food. We were picked up at the hacienda and returned to the airport hotel from where, the following morning, we travelled into the amazing rain forest with a short flight east from Quito, a 2-hour motorized canoe trip down the Napo River, which flows into the Amazon River, then a shorter paddle canoe trip to the La Selva Lodge.

The Lodge is magnificent, and this is a great learning experience. Each day we were accompanied by 2 native guides and a naturalist guide to explore the myriad ecosystems of lakes, rivers and forests, as well as a nearby village. Paul is an outstanding, personable and knowledgeable guide who did not miss a thing. The lectures were most informative, the Lodge staff are fantastic, and the food is wonderful. After 3 nights we returned to Quito, then left for Galapagos the next morning. We were greeted at the airport on Baltra Island by Daniel, our superb guide, and the delightful staff of the Endemic. This is a gorgeous, motorized catamaran that can accommodate 16 passengers, but had only us and one other couple from the US booked for a 5-night journey.

It was the first 2 weeks of December with fewer visitors than usual. The attention, service, food, activities and company were wonderful and, as you can imagine, quite personalized throughout. A tour of the Galapagos Islands is truly an extraordinary experience. Daniel introduced the next day’s activities/options each evening before dinner. From the magnificent tortoises to sea lions, penguins, blue and red-footed boobies, frigate birds, falcons, flamingoes, sharks, sea turtles and so many other species of flora and fauna, these islands are unique in the world. On the 6th day we returned to Quito, stayed at the beautiful Casa El Eden boutique Hotel, hosted by the exceptionally hospitable Blanca and Mario, and were joined the next day by Christina, our excellent guide, for a tour of Quito and the strange features of latitude 00.00’. There were no questions unanswered and we were most comfortable every step of the way. All in all, a great trip!” —Barbra and Gene Hirsh

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MEXICO: We experienced city tours, food tours, a traditional cooking lesson and a demonstration of weaving with all natural dyes…

“My adult child (30) and I (60) took a wonderful trip to Mexico City and Oaxaca (December 4-13, 2024) planned by Zach and his team. Despite some communication hiccups at the beginning of the planning process, we settled in, and Jose planned an amazing itinerary for us. Zach and Jose asked us lots of questions to begin and the sample itineraries first shared with us showed that they were listening. Due to some physical limitations, we did not visit some of the archeological sites and skipped some hiking. Our days were full, but left time for rest and exploration on our own as we requested. Our hotels, both Pug Seal properties, were lovely. We especially appreciated the delicious breakfasts and the snacks and fruit waters available throughout the day. The staff were very friendly and helpful without being intrusive. Each location even has an honor bar.

Our guides and drivers in both cities were fantastic (guides Antonio in Mexico City and Yesi and Lupita in Oaxaca). We experienced city tours, food tours, a traditional cooking lesson and a demonstration of weaving with all natural dyes in Teotitlan, a visit to Monte Alban and three small pueblos specializing in different indigenous crafts, a visit to Coyoacan, San Angel and Xochimilco for a boat ride. Everyone that we met throughout our trip was friendly and welcoming.

And the food! From my traveling partner: “Generally just had a blast with never a bad meal.”” —Amy Cook

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NORWAY: Excursions including snowshoeing, ice fishing, visiting a Sami reindeer herder, and viewing the amazing Northern Lights…

“We ventured from Oslo to the Arctic Circle with hopes of seeing the northern lights, and we were very happy we took Torunn‘s advice to visit Alta. Alta is breathtakingly beautiful, and not very commercial. There, welcoming and insightful guides outfitted us with warm outerwear (for the below-zero temps) and led us on excursions—including snowshoeing, ice fishing, visiting a Sami reindeer herder, and viewing the amazing northern lights—that were small, special, and not touristy.

Every night, we were welcomed back to cozy accommodations and meals of local delicacies that exceeded our expectations; and, at both a riverside lodge and a mountain resort, we enjoyed hot tubs under the stars and saunas reserved just for us. Throughout our vacation, Torunn and her team provided us with special experiences and made us feel welcomed and well cared for. We can’t wait to return to see more of Norway when the weather is warm and the sun is shining!” —Roger and Gina Symczak

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