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Off-the-Beaten Path Iceland: Insider’s Guide
Skógafoss is one of Iceland's biggest waterfalls, with viewpoints at its top and bottom. Photo: Shutterstock
The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Iceland: Mads Christensen of Nordic Star.
Based in Copenhagen, Mads travels frequently throughout Denmark (including the Faroe Islands) to stay abreast of the latest offerings for his travelers—like a candlelit dinner inside the Stone Age collection at Copenhagen’s National Museum, or a private cruise aboard a former royal yacht. When it comes to Iceland, adventure is Mads’ forte, from river rafting to horseback riding to glacier walking, but it can be made soft enough to please grandparents on a multigenerational trip. He works with elite driver/guides who own safe, luxe vehicles that can venture off Iceland’s main roads and into the rugged backcountry.
Where to Stay and Eat
Best-value splurge hotels
In Reykjavik, the EDITION offers the city’s most luxurious and design-forward stay, right on the Old Harbor with stunning views of Mt. Esja. Rooms are spacious and the service is top-notch—especially in the winter when the hotel becomes a cozy retreat from the snow.
For countryside charm, Torfhús Retreat is a standout near the Golden Circle. Its turf-roofed stone houses with geothermal hot tubs blend Icelandic tradition with a touch of luxury. It’s a peaceful, off-the-grid experience perfect for couples or families seeking privacy and nature.
Hotel Jökulsárlón opened in 2024, just steps from the same-named glacier lagoon and the famed Diamond Beach. This family-owned luxury hideaway marries modern Nordic elegance with rugged Icelandic wilderness; it’s also a good place for catching the northern lights (at the right time of year, of course).
Diamond Beach is named for the shards of glacial ice that wash up on its shore. Photo: Pixabay
Best restaurants
Eating out isn’t really part of Scandinavian culture—when Icelanders go out, it’s more often for drinks or dancing—but there are several can’t-miss restaurants in Reykjavik. Apotek, Kol, The Fish Market, Messinn, and Grillmarkaðurinn (Grillmarket) are all very popular and deliver top-tier seafood and creative new-Nordic cuisine. Reservations are essential, especially in high season.
Dishes to try
The lobster soup at Tryggvaskáli, in Selfoss on the Golden Circle, makes for a rich and flavorful lunch in a charming riverside setting.
The Arctic char at Messinn is also a local favorite.
What to See and Do
Hidden gem
The Westman Islands are fantastic for birders; from May to August, it’s one of the best places in Iceland to see puffins. There are only a few hotels on the islands, so if you are one of the lucky few to spend the night, it feels extremely remote.
The Westman Islands are one of the best places in Iceland to see puffins. Photo: Shutterstock
Most overrated place
The main section of the Blue Lagoon is packed with busloads of tourists from morning to evening. (While there are many hot springs around Iceland, people come here because the silica-rich water is thought to be rejuvenating.) Instead, book a visit to the Blue Lagoon’s much more exclusive Retreat Spa and Lagoon, where you’ll have access to your own private changing rooms, pools, and comfy seating. It’s more expensive, but you get a much more pleasant experience without the lines, and you can stay for five hours rather than the standard two.
Most underrated place
Thorsmork Valley. It’s a different world, with an astounding variety of landscapes: crater lakes with crystal-clear water, hidden waterfalls, rocks blown out in the most recent volcano eruption, and fabulous hiking trails that offer a chance to see very different flora than in other parts of Iceland. The valley isn’t easy to access—you’ll need either a specially modified “super jeep” or a helicopter—so it sees considerably fewer tourists than other parts of the south.
Thorsmork Valley is adventurer’s paradise with crater lakes and hidden waterfalls. Photo: Shutterstock
Cheap thrills
A “Viking Sushi” boat tour. You catch scallops, sea urchin, and fish, which the crew prepares as sashimi and sushi. It’s as fresh as food can get.
Geothermal bread baking. At the Laugarvatn Fontana spa and hot springs, you can dig up dense, dark rye bread that’s been slow-baking underground in hot black sand for 24 hours. Served warm with Icelandic butter, it’s a hands-on (and mouthwatering) way to connect with the island’s geothermal roots.
How to spend a lazy Sunday
Watch local professional sports teams compete at the Laugardalshöllin in Reykjavik; the most popular events are handball, soccer, and swimming.
Book a private soak at a boutique hot spring spa, like Sky Lagoon just outside Reykjavik. With its dramatic oceanfront infinity edge and seven-step ritual (cold plunge, sauna with a fjord view, etc.), it delivers a modern Icelandic bathing experience in a luxurious setting. Go early for a quieter, more exclusive atmosphere, and book a Pure Pass for access to the private changing facilities.
Sky Lagoon offers a luxe spa experience, including a sauna with a fjord view. Photo: Shutterstock
If you’re farther afield, a private helicopter picnic atop a remote glacier or mountain ridge makes for an unforgettable Sunday outing—especially when paired with a guide who knows the best secret landing spots.
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Best Time to Go
October is far less crowded than the peak summer and winter months, and most roads and hotels stay open until the first snow late in the month. If you are lucky, you can even see the northern lights.
Worst Times to Go
Early November, when the Airwaves music festival causes hotel prices to skyrocket and Reykjavik gets very crowded and noisy.
The Christmas/New Year’s holidays. Iceland has a family-oriented culture, so you don’t get a great feel for local life at this time of year, and many businesses are closed; plus, rates go up 50%.
Can't-Miss Photo Ops
Kirkjufell Mountain, located on the Snæfellsnes peninsula in West Iceland, is known as Arrowhead Mountain in Game of Thrones. It’s also the most-photographed landmark in the country.
The craggy Dimmuborgir lava formations. Their appearance changes depending on the light and season, so no two shots here will ever be the same.
The Souvenir
Fish-oil tablets. These are said to make you strong and healthy—and are about the only thing in Iceland that can be considered a bargain.
Tipping Tip
Locals don’t tip, but it’s nice to leave 5% in a restaurant, or round up the bill in a taxi, if you got good service.
Don’t Forget to Pack
Your swimsuit, regardless of the time of year. You never know when you’ll pass a gorgeous hot spring and want to go for a dip.
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