Make Your Next Trip Extraordinary

Karen and Rod Baesman enjoying a private dinner for their WOW Moment in Murchison Falls National Park in Uganda.

Karen and Rod Baesman enjoying a private dinner in the bush.

My husband and I just returned from a bucket-list trip to Uganda! The trip exceeded our expectations on all fronts. We visited Tanzania 14 years ago and I had wanted to return to Africa ever since to see the gorillas. We decided that 2024 was the year and last June (after returning from a family trip to Greece — also planned using The WOW List) I consulted The WOW List and reached out to Cherri Briggs. I was promptly contacted by Katie McDonough and the planning began. This is my eighth trip using The WOW List so I knew we would have excellent accommodations and experiences, but what I most appreciated about working with Katie was her guidance in helping me narrow down exactly where we should go. I knew we wanted to see gorillas which meant Uganda or Rwanda, but I was all over the place about what else to see. After hearing our interests of seeing wildlife and experiencing the culture of wherever we went, Katie and Cherri recommended spending our entire two weeks in Uganda.

We spent the first two nights in Kampala. Most tourists just stay in Entebbe, but we wanted to see a larger city and we are so glad we did. We had a full day taking in the city, including visiting a couple of art galleries (we purchased a painting), sampling fried grasshoppers (delicious), walking through a market (the locals were confused by our presence, but my husband is fascinated by markets and is telling everyone about this one), and being consistently astonished at the driving and loads of all the boda-bodas (small motorcycles).

The next three nights were spent in Murchison Falls. We went on multiple game drives and two cruises on the Victorian Nile. We saw too many different types of animals and birds to name them all here, but if you are a birder, you will drool at the fact that we saw a pair of Shoebills on our delta cruise! We assumed the game would not be as impressive as what we had experienced in Tanzania, but the wildlife exceeded our expectations. Having the Nile cruises was different than what we had done previously and we had better views of giraffe and hippos, as well as different species to see and learn about. If you are going to Africa to see game, I would still say that Tanzania was better than Uganda, however, this was an excellent compliment to what we had done previously, especially since it had been 14 years. The Ugandan President’s daughter and her family were staying at our lodge, which made security interesting. On one evening, we were doing a game drive and we saw a set-up in the distance that we thought might be for the first daughter and her family because we saw men with guns. It turned out that it was a WOW Moment for the two of us! We watched the sunset and had dinner in the park — thank you Wendy Perrin! My husband commented that he is hard to surprise and to impress, but that this truly was a WOW experience!

Next we spent two nights in Kibale to trek for chimpanzees. We had an unbelievable day! Katie recommended a chimpanzee habituation experience which meant that once we found the chimps, we would spend four hours with them. We basically experienced an episode of Chimp Empire (Netflix). We saw chimps in the trees, on the ground, grooming, feeding, pounding on trees, making so much noise, mating, and having a tussle with a black and white Colobus monkey. The park guide said we were lucky, because you never know what you will see. To temper expectations, the day before they only saw three chimps in the trees. During the afternoon, we went on a community tour (coffee making, medicine man, weaving, banana beer and gin) which our guide set up for us and was well organized and well worth it. We also did a night walk led by the park rangers to look for nocturnal primates and we saw two!

Next stop was three nights in Mgahinga National Park. We trekked for Golden Monkeys and were rewarded with a large group, including so many young ones that we watched playing for almost the entire hour. That afternoon we visited the Batwa community (tribe displaced from the forest in 1991 to protect the gorilla habitat). Next day was our first gorilla trek. There is only one family of gorillas in the Ugandan part of this region. This park borders Rwanda and Democratic Republic of Congo where additional gorillas can be found. The family we saw has three silverbacks in a group of nine. We were amazed by how close the gorillas came to us. They didn’t seem to care about our presence at all, but we were awed by them. We were in a group of six tourists (plus three park rangers and four trackers) and to give some of you motivation, one of our fellow trekkers was 84 years old! That afternoon the employee of our lodge who had taken us on our Batwa tour took us to see the vocational center and then we asked if we could walk around. He lived in the surrounding village so he offered to show us around. It was one of the highlights of the trip. We walked the countryside and since he knew everyone and could interpret for us it was perfect. We watched people harvesting crops, even taking our turn at beating the dried beans. We chatted with people, asking questions and even showing them pictures of our family when they asked if we had children. As we passed a church, the pastor came out and invited us into his home. It was a magical day!

The travel day from Mgahinga to Bwindi included a coffee tour and a boat ride across a lake. In Bwindi Impenetrable National Park we had our final primate experience, a gorilla habituation experience. Upon finding the gorillas, we spent four hours with them. It was a very different experience than the gorilla trek in Mgahinga. The gorillas had seen people for two years, so they were not as oblivious to our presence, however, they were comfortable enough to take a 30-minute nap with us there. The terrain was different, too, denser underbrush and steeper. Once we found them and started following them, the trackers and their machetes were critical to helping us make our way through the forest. I am so glad we did both experiences, though, because spending four hours meant we got to see more behaviors. This was a family of 10, including one silverback and a six-month-old. After leaving Bwindi we spent the day in Entebbe (we managed to find another market where a teen girl wanted to take a picture with us) waiting for our flight home.

For those curious about the difficulty of the trekking, my husband and I are 59 years old and in good physical shape. We exercise regularly, including strength training, cycling and tennis. We were fortunate that none of our treks were too long. The trek to find the chimps was about 20 minutes and easy. It was a little more challenging keeping up with the chimps and our guide commented that she was thankful we could move quickly through the plant life to keep up with them. The golden monkey trek was about an hour and a half uphill. There were about 14 people plus guides and trackers and they ended up splitting us into two groups once they figured out who could hike faster. We were in the faster group and we definitely got our heart rate up! Splitting up allowed each group to spend time with the monkeys in a smaller group of people. The first gorilla hike was not difficult and it took less than an hour. It was rolling hills, not straight up. The most challenging part was the hike from the parking lot to where we met the rangers because it was straight up! In Bwindi we were truly lucky as we found the gorillas in about 20 minutes. If we had had to hike in that forest for hours, it would have been challenging. Making our way through the dense plant life was not easy and there were all kinds of opportunities to trip. The terrain was steep.

All of the accommodations were fabulous! Because we flew between locations, we had multiple guides which added to the experience. It was an opportunity to hear multiple perspectives and learn more. The planes were single-engine, 11-passenger planes. The roads in some places were quite rough! Our guides referred to the experience of driving some roads as an African massage….

While the impetus for the trip was seeing wildlife, we always want to interact with the people of the places we visit. The Ugandan people were just lovely. While most survive by growing their own food and selling what extra they have, we found them to be happy, friendly, and as interested in us as we were with them. The employees of the lodges went out of their way to ensure we had everything we could possibly want. The hospitality was above what anyone could expect.

We would highly recommend visiting Uganda and using Cherri’s office to plan your trip!

Miriam and Lorne Morris teaching pickleball to two teachers in Kafue , Zambia.

Miriam and Lorne Morris brought pickleball to a Zambian village.

Our trip was fantastically planned by Cherri Briggs and the unflappable Frankie Jannsen. I always felt heard by them and they always tried to
deliver what was best for us.

We spent 31 days in South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Mauritius. The execution of which had many many pieces but everything
worked flawlessly. The pickups at the airport were there helping us with baggage and whisking us thru the airport. Drivers universally wonderful and
informative. All the guides were great and fit well with us. The accommodations ranged from very good to unbelievably good. And the food on this trip was insanely good.

The only hiccup was that my husband forgot his ear buds in Bushmans Kloof and we were now in Cape Town. Frankie and the manager of our hotel
(shout out to Cape Cadogan) contacted BK, located the ear buds and had them transported to Cape Town so we could pick them up on our way out of town. Brilliant and effortless!

Cape Town was one of my favorite cities anywhere. Like a small San Francisco filled with beautiful vistas and lovely people and glorious food. Wine country is a must for its more rural appeal, hills filled with vineyards and towns filled with galleries and spectacular restaurants. And though I resisted the idea of going to Victoria Falls, Frankie convinced me it was worthwhile and boy was she right. We wound up wanting to spend more time there, not less time. Honestly, I have never seen anything like that and make sure you go at the right time of day for the rainbows that are literally everywhere.

The safari experience was incredibly moving and thought provoking for both of us. We saw an amazing array of animals in different settings along with more birds than I have ever seen. But to be in a world that is dominated by these animals and not by you is an extraordinary experience. One that will never go away.

Besides for great communication and just plain liking Cherri and the gang, one of the specific reasons I went with Cherri Briggs is that she and her
husband, Richard, live in Africa and have a foundation, Direct Impact Africa (DIA), which has enormous impacts in the villages on the Lower Zambezi River in Zambia. We very much wanted the opportunity to be in the villages and contribute in any way that we could. In the end, we brought pickleball to Chiawa. We brought all the equipment from here and before we got to the school, Richard (Cherri’s husband) had set up the net and court for us. And for the next two days we taught the kids and the adults how to play and how to carry on after we had left. Not only one of the highlights of our trip but an experience neither of us will ever forget.

I do urge anyone to think about going to Africa. And if you do, use Cherri Briggs, her team really is the best.

A female lion rebuffs the approach of a male, Tanzania.

A female lion rebuffs the approach of a male. Photo: Traveler Elane Zelcer

Having returned from East & Southern Africa yesterday, I’m still reliving those wonderful moments that come from having excellent guides that ensure extraordinary experiences alongside deep knowledge.

Cherri Briggs’ team, Katie and Yaqana, set this all in place knowing that I wanted to see and photograph big cats and elephants in the Serengeti Plains, Tanzania from 7-14 June. I’d been to Namibia, Botswana & Zambia, but not Tanzania. And this time I was travelling alone.

Namiri Plains, my first stop, was amazing — a really glorious lodge. My guide, Hatibu, met me at the Seronera airstrip, and over 4 days we were close to cheetah including a coalition of three males; a coalition of three lions that were pursuing a single male; a mother cheetah with five very young babies, fur-balls that romped & played in the deep grass while she called them as they disappeared & reappeared; and a young curious elephant that was comfortable with us being close by.

My last night included dinner with Kelvin Munisi, Project Manager with the Cheetah Conservation Initiative in Tanzania — this is an important program that is ensuring survival of cheetah in various African countries. It was good to learn about this.

Flying to Grumeti Airstrip, I saw more of Tanzania from the air — my next location was Mila Tented Camp, with “tents” that provided excellent accommodation and where I was looked after superbly. My guide Isack met me at the airstrip and soon we were watching three lions with 15 young cubs, then ostrich displaying their feathers, and we found two cheetah hiding in the deep grass. The next morning we spent several hours with a big male lion who was pursuing a disinterested female — even when she lashed out and her cubs appeared, he continued. All sightings were fascinating and provided great learnings and photo opportunities.

And to top it all off, my WOW Moment was an afternoon with Stanley Raymond, a fantastic photographer. We tried to photograph Mt Kilimanjaro, but the weather wasn’t helpful, so we had a great several hours photographing other sights and talking all things photography.

A big thank you to all those who helped make this trip so enjoyable — there is no doubt that your knowledge and guidance helped make this safe, fascinating and definitely unforgettable.

Traveler taking a selfie with with local kids during a community visit to the Mukundusi Village in Tanzania.

Traveler Jeannie Mullen snapped a selfie with kids in Makundusi Village in Tanzania.

I just returned from a trip to East Africa planned by Cherri and the terrific travel specialists on her team. I had a big birthday in 2023 and decided to plan a blow-out trip for myself to celebrate that important milestone. The trip took place over both Christmas and New Year’s, so there were the holidays to celebrate as well. More than 12 months prior to my departure, Cherri (via WP website) and I started a conversation about the best way to approach the planning. After several detailed discussions, and with her intimate knowledge of East Africa, she planned a really well-balanced itinerary that allowed me to see multiple aspects of the Serengeti in both Tanzania and Kenya, which included private reserves and conservancies as well as national parks. Being a solo traveler, I requested private guides and a more intimate experience away from large families that would be traveling over the holidays also. At some point in the planning, I realized that Uganda was in the general vicinity and I asked them to add a leg to the trip that would allow me to do a little gorilla trekking before returning home. By this time, the itinerary had stretched to a full month. Between Cherri, Katie and Yaqana, they delivered in spades. I cannot remember a trip that had so many logistics that went off as smoothly as these. Cherri’s team and their local contacts have their ground games down pat.

As for the quality of the trip itself, I was blown away. The lodges and their phenomenal staffs, the wildlife, the guides, the available local activities, the holiday and birthday celebrations along with numerous personal touches…

Lodges/Staff: A common thread throughout the entire trip was the quality of staff and level of service at each lodge. I cannot say enough about the locals that I met and the recurring personal interactions I had. It really appealed to me as well that the lodges train and employ local residents. The can-do spirits, the obvious pride in their work, their countries and local tribes was impossible to miss. The lodges and cottage/tent accommodations (and their diverse locations) were well chosen also. Standouts included Gibbs Farm, Namiri Plains (my favorite!) Singita Faru Faru at Grumeti Reserve, &Beyond at Ngorongoro Crater, each in Tanzania, and Sirikoi (also a huge favorite) at Lewa Conservancy in Kenya. Each different in their own way and very reflective of their respective locations, terrain and wildlife…every bit of it felt VERY East Africa. And, since tight weight restrictions on all of the small regional planes used between lodges required economizing on packed clothing, the complimentary daily laundry service at each lodge was a godsend.

Wildlife: Heading into the trip, I didn’t know if the game viewing was going to be as impressive during the winter holidays as it is at other times of the year. Happily, it was everywhere in abundance. The itinerary that Cherri and Katie put together ensured that I saw everything there was to see. Some locations, while they had most all of the wildlife, had for example, larger quantities of lions than elephants or rhinos. But in the end, I had seen it all. We started out in big cat country in the Serengeti and on the drive from the airstrip to Namiri Plains lodge, I saw lions, leopards and cheetah (which I was told is not the norm right off the bat). Quite by chance, I saw each of the five or six lion prides in very different locations over four-and-a-half days at Namiri Plains. And there were also enormous herds of wildebeest and zebra. In addition to the Big Five that is so often touted, I also learned about and spotted the Little Five and…the Ugly Five. Who knew!? It was also at a time of year when a lot of “courting” was going on, so the animal behavior was of great interest…young males vying for dominance over other young males, males making moves to change the long-held leadership of a particular pride, courtship rituals undertaken with gusto, and lots of newborns and juveniles everywhere you looked. Everyone was in the family way. While I saw elephants everywhere, they were in particularly large and mobile herds at Ambosili in Kenya. At Lewa conservancy in Kenya, there were large numbers of rhinos, which I hadn’t seen a lot of up to that point. Also at Lewa (above the equator) were different types of zebras (grevy), giraffe (reticulated), and rhinos (white) than I had seen in Tanzania, as well as the elusive Kudu. In Uganda, there were numerous and large families of gorillas that included lots of newborns. Taken together, it was nonstop and invigorating viewing which also made for some great photo opportunities.

Guides: A guide makes or breaks a safari. And I had some great guides. Cherri and company really came through in this regard. And because this was a solo trip, I had lots of private one-on-one opportunities to plumb their knowledge and experience and to do the specific things that I wanted to do in the time that I wanted to do them. A big shout-out to Blassy (in Arusha, Manyara, Kleins Gate in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania), Moinga at Namiri Plains and JP at Singita Faru Faru/Grumeti Reserve in Serengeti, Tanzania, Patrick at Amboseli, Onesmus at Sirikoi/Lewa Conservancy (both in Kenya) and Petrus at Bwindi in Uganda. They were knowledgeable, personable, great dinner companions, story tellers and conversationalists. To a person, these gentlemen made my trip.

Additional activities: Normally I schedule every day of a trip down to the minute. Since this trip was so long (and as I get older!) I left some time open in the itinerary in the event that I just needed to chill here and there. Doing so enabled me to schedule some additional, non-game-viewing activities at each location, which really enriched my overall experience. Highlights included: following bushmen on a game hunt (and taste-testing the grilled results!) in Tanzania, participating in an anti-poaching demonstration (I played the poacher and hid out in the bush) at Sirikoi in Kenya, multiple community/village visits, garden tours at Gibbs Farm and Sirikoi, and a visit to an inspiring women’s organization (Ride 4 A Woman) in Uganda.

Celebrations:

1) Birthday: Even tho my significant birthday was in September, this holiday trip was a gift to myself to celebrate that occasion. Apparently I included that info in my pre-trip questionnaire. Over a period of 30 days, I had no fewer than three separate birthday acknowledgements from lodge personnel. I’m pretty sure that upon arrival, I found a bottle of something chilled in my room at each and every lodge. At Tawi I was presented with a birthday cake in my tent and serenaded by the housekeeping and butler staff. At &Beyond Crater Lodge, on my last morning at breakfast, I was presented with a gorgeous birthday cake surrounded by rose petals (on the table and around the table on the floor) and was serenaded by the entire kitchen and wait staff in three different languages. At House of Waine, I was presented with a bottle of chilled champagne upon arrival and my bed was decorated with a lovely birthday wish spelled out in palm fronds. I feel as though I may be leaving something out, but these are the ones that are coming to mind as I write.

2) Holidays: I was at Singita Faru Faru Lodge / Grumeti Reserve in Tanzania for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. I opted out of the Christmas Eve festivities when I elected to stay in to get some much-needed rest. But I didn’t miss out on a great food presentation…they brought a taste of everything to my room for dinner. On Christmas Day, at the end of the morning game drive, we had a lovely surprise brunch outdoors in the bush complete with champagne, flowers and a lovely brunch bbq. On New Year’s Eve I was at &Beyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge in Tanzania. The exact plans for the evening were all very hush-hush during the day and leading up to sundown, but in the end, they revealed a phenomenal pre-dinner event at the lodge with Maasai tribesmen and women…at the conclusion of a tribal dance ritual at the north lodge, we all followed their torch-lit procession (singing, chanting and dancing the entire way) down to the south lodge where the Maasai then put on a spectacular dance demonstration which told the story of their customs and rituals (I had invited Blassy to join me for the festivities and as we sat together enjoying the demonstration, he explained to me what I was seeing). At the conclusion of the Maasai demonstration, the lodge put on a terrific New Year’s Eve dinner. It was all pretty grand.

As an indication of my level of satisfaction with this trip, I have already told Cherri/Katie that I will be in touch within the next several weeks to plan Africa 2.0.

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