Make Your Next Trip Extraordinary

Jan Heininger at the Shetland Islands.

Traveler Jan Heininger at 60 degrees north hiking in the Shetland Islands. Photo: Martha Johnson

Sea Spirit expedition cruise to the Orkneys, Shetlands and Faroe Islands
May 14-18, 2026

My husband and I had planned to take an expedition cruise to the Orkneys, Shetlands and Faroe Islands in May 2026. We’d chosen to go on the Sea Spirit operated by Poseidon Expeditions—the same ship on which we went to Antarctica, the Falklands and South Georgia Island in 2015. We’d loved the ship, especially because it held only the maximum number allowed by international treaty to land in Antarctica at any one time (100 plus 14 kayakers—something most operators don’t tell you). We booked through Wendy’s expedition cruise specialist Ashton. At almost the last minute, my husband was unable to go due to illness and I invited my college friend Martha Johnson to join me. This entailed Ashton getting Poseidon to make a special exception for passenger name change (for a fee of $300). Martha had quite a job ahead of her, since ships require a lot of paperwork, all of which Ashton’s superb staff Megan and Christine coordinated with ease. It also entailed changes in our hotel reservation at the designated Edinburgh hotel and transfer arrangements from ship to the Edinburgh airport.

Our expedition cruise was excellent and I was reminded again of why I am so fond of this lovely ship. As it is not one of the name-branch ships from National Geographic, Lindblad or Viking, it is lower in price and actually has superior accommodations, excellent food, and superb expedition staff. Not only did we see how these very remote islands in the North Sea are today (sheep outnumber their tiny populations by up to 13 to 1), we explored Neolithic, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Viking ruins—all amidst some of the most spectacular scenery I’ve ever seen. We were welcomed into a tiny village of 70 people, all of whom turned out for the day to show us how they live, feed us delicious homemade fish stew and pancakes for lunch, show us their school for only four children (3 from one family) guide us on hikes to gorgeous overlooks, and have them tell us how much they appreciated our coming to celebrate with them for the day. Wow.

Ashton is a fount of knowledge about expedition cruises and tailors his recommendations to what clients are looking for. He’s been in the business for 30 years (though he doesn’t look it), has been everywhere (usually more than once or twice) and knows every line and pretty much every ship. We had been guided to the Sea Spirit by a trip specialist on a much earlier list of Wendy’s experts, and since it had done so well for us, I asked Wendy at one point why she replaced that specialist with Ashton Palmer. She said he was even better and moreover, knew the entire expedition cruise industry – not just those focused on Antarctic and Arctic cruises. You want to see Madagascar via ship? Or the Indian Ocean islands? Ashton is the person to consult. You want one of the name brand companies—he’ll set you up. He not only focuses on what clients are looking for, but expands their vision of what might interest them that they don’t even know about.

We had one glitch on this trip when we arrived in Edinburgh to find no hotel reservation, and most distressingly, no local contact to get the problem resolved. (Be sure you are provided with a local contact or someone you can contact at a moment’s notice to resolve problems. And remember the rest of the world is far more accustomed to using WhatsApp than Americans are.) Our hotel issue eventually got resolved and we were reassured when Ashton discovered it was an error made by the hotel—not his company, nor Poseidon, but the hotel itself. Ashton even got me a substantial refund I had not asked for.

You can’t go wrong using Ashton. He and his staff are terrific.

This cruise on Quark to Svalbard was the 2nd one organized by Ashton’s company. The first was to Antarctica. In both cases they made excellent recommendations on when the best time was to go and were able to secure significant discounts for us. This last trip, on Quark, required a lot of work on their part because Quark was redesigning its website and nothing worked smoothly. Ashton and his colleagues Jade and Ashley were a huge help and always very responsive when we had problems with the ever-changing site, re-submitting forms that were lost, etc. Their guidance resulted in a smooth and uneventful experience. We are using them again for a cruise next year—they are truly experts when it comes to expedition cruising.

Our trip to the Sea of Cortez planned by Ashton and Ashley was spectacular in every way. When I first spoke with Ashton, I asked for his advice on the best timing to see the great whales in Baja. The week he selected for us on our small National Geographic-Lindblad ship was ultimately perfect. The number of whales we saw every day was incredibly special. We saw blue whales, one so close to the ship that you could hear the exhalation from its blowholes.
On our day in Magdalena Bay we saw more gray whales than we could count. They rolled around our small pangas as if they were playing with us. It is an incredible thrill to touch a whale and I had the immense privilege of doing so. The grays swam under our boats, rolled on their backs right next to us, stuck their beautiful fins up in the air so we could see the gorgeous multi coloring of their skin. There are really no words to describe the joy of the experience.
On another day we saw multiple humpbacks, one of which kept breaching every few minutes for more than an hour. It was mesmerizing.

Our trip also included multiple hikes, kayaking and snorkeling, one of which was with sea lions. Another was a deep water snorkel where there were giant schools of big-eye jacks. The water beneath us seemed to be carpeted in a glowing undulating mass of fish with the rays from the sun piercing the water. It was a magnificent sight.
Each day of our expedition was packed with activities and talks with the outstanding naturalists onboard.
We wanted to see the whales and WOW did we see whales and so much more.

We have used Ashton’s company for sailings before and are signed up for another. They are wonderful in creating truly memorable magical trips.

Mary Frances and her sister Linda holding Antarctica flag.

Traveler Mary Frances and her sister Linda had long dreamed of traveling to Antarctica together.

My sister and I had a trip to Antarctica on our bucket list for a few years, and for her, that would be her 7th continent! With Wendy’s guidance she connected us to Ashton Palmer. After a Zoom meeting with us to learn what was important to both of us in this trip of a lifetime, he and his wonderful team sent us 5 different cruise companies to choose from. We had a 2nd Zoom meeting to go over each cruise line with us and give us his knowledge from his 30 years of traveling and working with them.

As neither of us had been on a cruise before and were very worried about crossing the Drake, we choose Quark Expeditions, where you can fly the Drake both ways. They are known for their focus on exploring, their guides with amazing knowledge, and having a smaller ship with around 130 guests on board. We choose to go in early Dec 2025, since we were late to making our reservations even in June when we started working with Ashton.

Ashton advised us to at least fly to Santiago, Chile a day or two before we had to be in Punta Arenas, where we would fly out to King George Island in Antarctica. Ashton’s associates (Ashely & Monica), who were in charge of all our travels once we booked with them, arranged someone to meet us at the airport, transfer us to and from our hotel, and then set up a walking half-day tour of downtown Santiago. Carolina was our greeter and guide for our 2 days in Santiago. She was so knowledgeable and we had so much fun walking and learning all about this city from her. We felt like family by the end of the tour.

We flew to Punta Arenas, where we met with the local Quark Expedition staff/team. At the hotel we were given our jackets (we keep) and boots (returned at end of trip) that are needed for Antarctica. They inspect your luggage for bugs, dirt, seeds, etc. so that nothing is transferred to Antarctica. We had several group meetings to go over flights, times of flights, and go or no go depending on the weather. We had one night in Punta Areas and then flew out the next evening.

Our only wrinkle in the trip was as we flew to Antarctica, a huge storm came over the area where were landing and then boarding zodiacs to get to the ship. With winds of 40mph we had to spend 2 nights on St George Island in the little terminal building as the storm set in for 2 days. Quark had 10 staff on land with us. This was the first time this has ever happened for any of the cruise lines flying passengers into St George Island. Regarding the weather and flying over the Drake to St George Island, you are warned that after 2 days of bad weather and canceled flights your trip may be canceled, so we knew this going in as should anyone that wants to fly the Drake.

We finally were able to get on the ship safely and our trip was now only 4 days and not 6, but the staff and crew on the World Explorer did everything to make the 2.5 days of excursions the best ever. The Expedition Leader, Aimee, did everything in her power to make sure we saw at much as we could in the few days we had. And the staff on the ship along with all the Quark guides were truly outstanding.

We loved our cabins and having a balcony to watch the icebergs and whales day and night was one of my favorite things. The sun was only down for about 2 hours, so you could sit and look out any window and witness whales day and night.

We had meetings each morning and afternoon to discuss our expeditions and also lectures are offered every day about the seals, whales, penguins, etc. you would be seeing, as well as educating you on anything about Antarctica. Food on the ship was delicious, and since we were just two, many times we sat with staff or some of the passengers we had gotten to know while on St George Island. It was fun and easy to meet new people, who I am still in touch with today.

I have to agree with many others about Antarctica: This was a trip of a lifetime and something you have to experience. It is hard to put into words the peace and tranquility you feel while cruising through the waters seeing all the majestic icebergs with gorgeous blue color, the colonies & baby penguins that you are so close to each day. Paddling on a kayak one morning through the ocean with all the floating broken ice pieces was the best thing I have ever done. I am watching a friend do it on Instagram currently and so jealous that she is there making me want to go back.

I would highly recommend Ashton and his team to anyone looking to book a trip to Antarctica. And I plan to hopefully do another cruise with Quark Expeditions to the north next time. Thanks Wendy for all your help in connecting us with the perfect trip planners!!

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