Make Your Next Trip Extraordinary

Passengers and a photography guide from the National Geographic Endurance in Spitsbergen capturing a group of short reindeer were hanging out on a steep grassy slope.

Passengers and a photography guide from the National Geographic Endurance in Spitsbergen. Photo: Traveler Tom Redburn

We enjoyed a wonderful expedition trip on the National Geographic Endurance along the Norway coast, continuing above the Arctic Circle to Svalbard. The trip ran from May 31 to June 15, starting in Bergen and ending in Oslo, after a charter flight from Longyearbyen. We already had a good idea of what we wanted to do, but Ashton Palmer helped confirm that we had made the right choice in choosing a Lindblad/Nat Geo ship over any of the other possible ways of visiting Norway and Svalbard. Lindblad/Nat Geo created the perfect itinerary for us and the friends we were traveling with, poking in and out of fjords, visiting picturesque villages and incredible scenery along the coast for 9 days before heading to Svalbard and its rugged landscape, where we were fortunate to see about 10 polar bears, dozens of walruses, hundreds of thousands of birds and more, from our ship, Zodiac expeditions, kayaking, and walks on land.

I can’t imagine a better way of traveling to this part of the world than on the Endurance, which can take no more than 128 passengers (we had 110), with the large majority of cabins having balconies for private viewing, while also providing terrific public spaces, fantastic meals, an excellent gym and spa, and absolutely first-rate guides, wonderful daily presentations, and a staff that met all our needs — and more. It’s not inexpensive, but I thought the value was worth the money.

The schedule is somewhat flexible, depending on weather and other factors, but among the highlights were viewing Briksdal Glacier, enjoying waffles and jam at a couple of charming restaurants set on a lake and one of the Lofoten islands, visiting a husky farm for training dogs for racing, kayaking along a cliff with roosts for thousands of birds, and spotting polar bears along the coast of Svalbard that the captain and expedition leader found along the route. There are no guarantees and the rules forbid getting too close to the bears (I think 200 meters is the minimum distance) but every time we saw a bear and were able to photograph it or view through binoculars, it was a thrill. It was late spring/early summer and most days the sun never went down. The weather was usually right around freezing, and we had everything from brilliant sunshine to cloud bursts of rain, even some snowflakes, and bitter wind. We were given heavy coats as part of the trip and rented waterproof boots and always felt well protected despite the constantly changing conditions.

At the same time, what made the trip special was the amazing experience and background of the guides, the two photography experts: Tim Laman, a NatGeo photographer, took some terrific pictures and showed off some of his even more stunning photos (many of birds) from his other adventures around the world.

We did have a couple of hiccups along the way. Both Lisa and I, along with two of our friends, came down with Covid fairly early in the trip. But that barely put a crimp in what we were able to enjoy. The doctor on board prescribed Paxlovid and our symptoms were mild. We were required to eat in our room for five days, but otherwise were able to wander the ship as long as we were wearing masks and managed to see just about everything the other passengers witnessed (we missed a couple of hikes and a Zodiac trip but that’s about it.). And the final day in Longyearbyen when we disembarked before flying to Oslo was poorly planned and should be rethought by Lindblad.

This is the kind of trip where the WOW List planner is not as deeply involved as on most trips, but we were grateful that Ashton and his team suggested a cabin on the starboard side for better viewing, advised us to sign up early for the night on deck in a clear dome, and gave us several other options so that we could feel extremely pleased by our choice of going on the top-of-the-line Nat Geo Endurance. I really can’t imagine a more luxurious, more beautiful, more stable and more accommodating ship for expedition cruising. I dont think I’ll ever go on a conventional cruise (I simply can’t imagine traveling in one of those mega ships) but we feel confident with Ashton so that I plan on consulting with him again on a future small-boat trip we hope to take in 2026 to the South Pacific.

Finally, I’d like to offer a shout-out for Torunn Trosvang, another WOW travel advisor. We planned five days in Norway at the end of our cruise, with 3 days in Oslo and 2 we expected to spend in Flam. But I noticed in Torunn’s Insider’s Guide that she recommended not staying in Flan and instead going to the nearby 29/2 Aurland, a truly special small inn with a fascinating history in one family for several generations, and an excellent young chef (22!) who happens to be the son of the owner. We never would have found it without that mention on Wendy’s website, and highly recommend reading the helpful advice that most of her recommended local advisers offer — for free!

Ashton Palmer and his team were great in recommending a cruise, and then providing support right up to departure. Ashton talked to me about what type of cruise I was looking for, and based on my own personal details, made suggestions. I couldn’t have been happier.

Our trip to the Galapagos was fantastic. We went in May and the weather was fine. Not sure if there is a bad time to go to the Galapagos regarding the weather. I think the main thing to consider for this trip is your stamina and mobility. Some of the hikes were strenuous, as well as requiring some balance walking over the lava rocks. Sometimes there are alternatives such as a zodiac ride. The expedition leader explains this for each excursion. The various animals and their behavior is the most unique aspect of this trip. Some don’t even happen on the excursion. For instance, a sea lion banging a fish against the ship below our balcony, breaking the fish apart in order to eat it.

Our trip planner really worked with us as this was our third attempt to get to the Galapagos. The first time, my wife broke her leg so we had to reschedule a year later. The second time, the cruise line expedition had a group charter their ship on our second date. We finally settled on another date. We worked with our trip planner on the rescheduling. Then on our departure, our flight was delayed and eventually cancelled. Our trip planner/logistic advisor (Monica) worked with us and the cruise line flight department to get rerouted to get to Quito. We did miss our night stay in Quito, but Monica followed up with the hotel so that we had a day room at the hotel the next morning on our arrival, so that we could at least wash up. Monica did a great job. This was a fantastic trip that we will remember for a long time.

Laurie's husband with the Sea Cloud Spirit in full sail.

Laurie’s husband with the Sea Cloud Spirit in full sail. Photo: Traveler Laurie Richter

My husband and I traveled on the Sea Cloud Spirit in mid April. Ashton Palmer organized the trip for us and we have used him before for Antarctica. In this case, as it was a sailing itinerary, Ashton’s involvement was all the communication with the Sea Cloud folks and because they are a German company, it’s not as easy as it would be with a big cruise company here. They helped us pick the right stateroom and ran interference when we had questions like what kind of outlets they had. As before, they were very responsive. Ashton also put together an itinerary for us that included all private guides at each port but we decided to go with what the boat offered as sailing on the Sea Cloud is a major investment even before you add excursions. I think he was probably right that the experience would have been better but we still had a lovely time.

Some things I would like to share about this boat because it is unknown in the North American market. The original Sea Cloud was owned by Meriwether Post as a private yacht in the 20s. It has a fascinating history and was bought by a German company who refurbished it and built two bigger (and more amenity-filled) versions. We were on the newest and largest but there were still only 77 passengers. It is a fully manual sail boat—meaning that every day, the crew climb up the lines to set the sails and do it in reverse when it’s time for them to come down. It takes about an hour each time and is an incredible spectacle and one of the main reasons you want to sail on this boat.

Our itinerary started in the Canary Islands and went up the coast of Morocco, ending in Malaga, Spain. The boat is beautiful but does not have stabilizers like some of the big cruise ships, so if you’re prone to seasickness and the weather is bad, you’ll feel it. This was our second Sea Cloud sailing (Sea Cloud 2 in the Caribbean) and what we found both times was that there were about 10-14 primarily English speaking passengers (US, Canada, England) and the remainder were all German because it’s very well known there. A few times a year, Abercrombie and Kent charters the boat and those sailings have primarily an English speaking crowd. There were some real benefits to being in the minority because lectures on board were done twice (German and English) and ours had a much smaller crowd. Also, the shore excursions were separated into two groups, one with an English speaking guide and one with a German guide. Their groups were 15-20 people, ours were 3-8.

The Sea Cloud ships are not cheap to sail on and most things other than gratuities are extra, including internet (we burned through it), drinks other than cocktail hour and meals, and all shore excursions. They had a lovely spa and with three full days at sea, we made good use of it. This is a unique experience that is not for everyone but I wouldn’t hesitate to go again and have Ashton plan it for us.

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