Make Your Next Trip Extraordinary

Emmie Lee and family during a mini-trek on a glacier in Argentina.

Traveler Emmie Lee and her family felt grateful to experience the vast cracking, calving glacier.

Our trip was incredible! Maita and her staff were wonderful and patient with developing the itinerary and ironing out any details with me. I was working primarily w Alexander to plan this trip and he was tremendous at making sure we were OK every step of the way. At one point while we were in Bariloche, Alexander noticed there was some stormy weather coming up, and he was able to switch our itinerary so our more challenging boat ride and hike would take place on the more “calm” day. This was MUCH appreciated that he was looking out for us and had a big impact on our experience then.

This was a bucket list “hike Patagonia” trip for our family of 4—as well as our first time exploring South America/Argentina. We traveled from December 21st-January 2nd…Landed in Buenos Aires Dec. 21st morning and checked in at the Hub Porteno boutique hotel which was lovely (large palatial rooms and bathrooms, quiet) in the chic and safe Recoleta neighborhood. Buenos Aires was charming, prettier than we expected—we explored the Recolata and Palermo neighborhoods, which offered a nice mix of shopping, eateries, cafes, charming architecture!

The timing of our trip worked well—the weather was perfect and it was interesting being in a new city exploring during December holidays. We loved our Buenos Aires guide, Maria. She was informative, charming, intelligent, fun beyond her years. She did a great job of showing us the city, filling us on history, the culture, exposing us to local dishes and drinks that we enjoyed! A highlight was our day trip to an estancia (la Bamba) one day… This was a refreshing change from city life, allowed us to be exposed to the pompano and gaucho lifestyle in the country. We enjoyed a great horseback ride, the beauty of the estancia property, a sumptuous lunch of grilled meats and torched flan, an impressive show put on by a very skilled gaucho and his trusted horse (amazing!), then some time to relax at the pool before we had to return to the city. The other highlight was the dinner/tango show that evening which we also very much enjoyed—it was sophisticated and the dancers were so talented/skilled that our dancer daughter was interested in studying tango when she returned to the States!

After a few days in Buenos Aires we caught our short flight to Bariloche, “The Lake District” and northern Patagonia. At the airport we met Facundo (sp?), a tall gregarious and lovely tour guide who accompanied us to our hotel—Correntoso Lake and River Hotel at Villa La Angostura, which was lovely. Facundo was a wonderful—he was very easygoing, educated and yet again did a great job of giving us some background on this beautiful part of the country. We enjoyed 2 full days w Facundo—memorable hikes (Nahuel Huapi Lake) and outings including boating across the lake, having a long 10 mile+ hike up to Mount Dormilon (accompanied by 2 friendly dogs), then tucking into an amazing lunch prepared by the gentleman who had picked us up in the boat and on his property. The grilled meats were delicious—some of the best steak we had ever had, and we enjoyed again the rustic beauty of the lake/mountain setting. We loved the Correntoso hotel—it was perched on the edge of the lake, and we enjoyed breathtaking views from our rooms and dining, the incredibly clean fresh air, and a wonderful and delicious Christmas Eve dinner at their hotel! Service and massages were also amazing there. Would happily return here again in the future!

On Dec. 27th we caught our flight from Bariloche to Calafate. Once we landed, we had a long drive to our hotel to take in the very new more barren landscape—the last hour we were driving on a bumpy rocky dirt road—to the Refugio de Glaciares north of Chalten. We enjoyed our time here but be forewarned it is very rustic/basic and internet is only available 2 hours a day. Since we were there to hike, this place is more of a “hostel.” Turns out my family was happy and fine to have an internet vacation and the place is set up for people to play board games, enjoy meals together, fireplaces are burning to keep everyone cozy, the food/service was warm and attentive. We were there to hike and we certainly did that! We went on a 10+ mile hike mostly through grass/forest up to the Mirador Glacier, where we enjoyed our picnic lunch and the natural beauty before heading back. The Refugio had a local guide, Juan, who took us around—he was adorable, young, and did a nice job of guiding us around, explaining the flora/fauna, wildlife and the geography around us.

On the 2nd full day we met up with a different guide, Romina, to tackle the penultimate Laguna De Los Tres hike! This is not for the fainthearted—it turned out to be a 13-14 mile hike and toward the top the weather is extremely unpredictable. We experienced frozen rain/sleet, gales of wind strong enough to take you off your feet, and pretty steady rain for a good portion of our hike! Our guide, Romina, was extremely patient and mellow—she got me up/down as I followed her footsteps on the rocky slippery trail. I asked for hiking poles to borrow which were provided and those were lifesaving! If I had any advice it would be to pack rain pants next time—everything else we had was waterproof but our pants all got soaked. You will also learn that experiencing 4 seasons in one day is very “Patagonia!” Our guide took the crazy weather in stride, made sure we were safe, and if anything, embraced the crazy weather as being normal. The last few miles of hiking were easier—we were now on paths that were undulating, more dirt than rock, and the stormy weather was stuck around the peaks and we had left that behind for pleasant hiking weather and even some sun. By the time we finished that hike back in the town of Chalten, we enjoyed a hard-earned coffee/snack at a charming cafe before getting into the car for a drive back to El Calafate.

We now checked in at the Esplendor Calafate hotel, which was very nice. One day we went mini-trekking on the glacier and enjoyed a great boat ride to the Perito Moreno glacier. That was amazing—to put crampons on and be able to literally climb/walk on the ice, experience it, admire its beauty up close and even savor a few sips of scotch on glacial ice to top things off! To see that in person and really take in the scale of this glacier (3 miles wide?) was breathtaking! We also enjoyed our time walking the catwalks/walkways that allowed you to enjoy more views (and the occasional cracking/calving!) of the impressive glacier. I was grateful we got to experience that, considering how quickly these glaciers are melting/retreating. Back in town we enjoyed time exploring the town, the bird sanctuary, shopping, nibbling on empanadas and gelato. We celebrated New Year’s Eve at the hotel, which was lovely and fun. Started off w party favors (festive masks/hats), champagne and hors d’oeuvres, then a fantastic sit-down dinner, a sumptuous dessert buffet, and then dancing a few calories off to top things off! A good clean fun time was had by all.

On Jan 2nd we caught our flight from Calafate back to Buenos Aires and happily checked back into the Hub Porteno hotel where we had started out our trip. We enjoyed running around town for last-minute shopping, treats, silver jewelry, leather goods, gifts. We met our driver who took us to the airport for our return flight home. We all agreed it was a phenomenal once in a lifetime trip! Certainly fulfilled our desire to hike, experience and learn about Patagonia’s geography/natural beauty, enjoyed and are open to returning to Buenos Aires in the future, enjoyed the people we met, foods/drinks we ate and full of great memories as a family together.

Elizabeth Mullins at Iguazú Falls in Argentina.

Traveler Elizabeth Mullins was graced with a rainbow at the “truly amazing” Iguazú Falls.

I went (mostly) to Argentina for two weeks on my own, with the planners recommended by Wendy. My trip was from October 10-25. It was a really good trip but I do want to offer feedback. First, it all turned out okay in the end, but I wasn’t really comfortable with the requirement to pay for the trip by wire transfer to the agency. There were also some issues during planning (e.g. making a dinner reservation, described as “on the sidewalk” for a single woman on her own?). But I did feel well looked after once I arrived and generally things went smoothly. However, some things for others to know/consider.

I started in Buenos Aires, arriving late morning following a non-stop overnight flight from NYC. The 10+ hour flight in business class meant I could get a good night sleep and hit the ground running. I stayed at HUB Porteno, a small boutique hotel that I highly recommend. The neighborhood, Recoleta, is a great place to stay, walking distance to many sites, very safe and with excellent restaurants nearby, full of many locals as well as some tourists.

I then flew to Mendoza for 3 days/nights (based at Casa de Uco, in the Uco Valley, with fabulous views of the snow-capped Andes Mountains all around) for wine tasting, visiting Vina Cobos (an excellent tasting with small bites to complement the wines), Terraza de los Andes (one I might recommend skipping) and Kaiken (here, the tasting was a multi-course lunch at a Francis Mallman restaurant with matching wines plus additional wines offered when I inquired. The next day was at Salentein, Finca Sophenia (with a blind tasting and opportunity to blend my own wine) and Piedra Infinita at Zuccardi (another multi course lunch/tasting with several wines). I’ve done a lot of wine tourism (Champagne, the Rhône Valley, Southwest France, Italy, Spain, Portugal [the Douro and the Alentejo], the Barossa and Adelaide Hills in Oz, plus Napa and Sonoma) and this was a very good experience. BUT, it was organized so that there were lots of long drives. The Uco Valley is about 90 minutes from Mendoza Airport, so after landing, it was a trip to get to the lovely Casa de Uco. The next day, first day of wine tasting, was back to Mendoza. The second day, the tastings were in the Uco Valley. When leaving the next day it was an early start (6:45 am) to get back to Mendoza Airport. I think this could have been better thought through, to minimize the back and forth.

Following Mendoza, it was on to the Iguazú Falls. Unfortunately, there are no direct flights, so that means flying back to Buenos Aires and then BA to Foz de Iguazú. Twelve hours door to door, from Casa de Uco to the Belmond Hotel des Cataratas! Ugh.

But it was worth it! The falls (275 water falls) are truly amazing. Hint for other travelers: Stay on the Brazilian side (most of the falls are in Argentina so the best views are from the Brazilian side)! And stay at the Belmond, a lovely hotel with great facilities which is in the park, so you are there before the park opens and after. On my first morning, at 7 am, I had a 90-minute walk to see the falls (bonus: a beautiful rainbow to accompany the walk) and I had the trail entirely to myself (and my guide). Incredible.

Small issue: The planners knew I had arranged this with the hotel but scheduled the same walk with their contracted guide for 9 am that morning. Why? I had to contact them and then convince their guide to swap out a visit to the Bird Park (a must) instead. Another nit: They knew I was staying on the Brazilian side, which involves crossing the Argentine/Brazil border but also arranged it so I had to cross Saturday night when I arrived, then cross twice on Monday (exit Brazil/enter Argentina to visit the Argentine side, then exit Argentina/enter Brazil to return to the hotel) then cross again on Tuesday to fly back to BA. The local guide said no one consulted him and he would have arranged/scheduled it differently to avoid the multiple crossings (which took between 20 minutes to more than an hour each time). Another hint: Especially if staying on the Brazilian side, do the boat ride on the Brazilian side (note there’s a funicular ride down to the water with great views and step-free access).

Some recommendations for Buenos Aires: an English tour of the beautiful Teatro Colon and a performance of the ballet; MALBA, a museum of 20th century LatAm artists with a knowledgeable guide. And one very special highlight, arranged by my guide (on her own initiative, w/o the agency): a visit to the studio and with the world-famous Argentine photographer Aldo Sessa (who was so gracious and interesting and gifted me an autographed copy of his book of photos of the artists of Teatro Colon, because of my interest in the ballet).

WendyPerrin.com weighs in:

A big thank-you to Elizabeth for her in-depth feedback. We think it would help to share Maita’s take too and some advice for maximizing an experience of Mendoza and Iguassu Falls.

First, it’s important to consider why the itinerary was mapped out as it was. Maita didn’t prioritize efficiency because the itinerary was based on specific wineries and hotels that Elizabeth wanted included, as well as her flight schedule. Which brings up an important tip for travelers: The best way to use The WOW List for trips (as we explain in our FAQs) is to approach the local expert with general ideas about your itinerary but to let them use their insider intel to guide the specifics. The more flexible you are, the more you can take advantage of their expertise and connections.

In fact, it was Maita’s connections that got Elizabeth into Aldo Sessa’s studio: He is a friend of Maita’s, and she introduced Mr. Sessa to Elizabeth’s guide. And when Elizabeth opted against an outdoor table at a popular Buenos Aires steakhouse, Maita called the owner, who offered his own table for Elizabeth’s meal.

As for maximizing an experience of Iguassu Falls and the pros/cons of the Brazilian side vs. the Argentine side, these insights from Maita may help other travelers too:

“Elizabeth wanted to stay at the Belmond Das Cataratas on the Brazilian side. When staying in Brazil and returning to Argentina, in order to avoid crossing back and forth, we normally offer the visit to the Argentine falls either on the arrival or departure day. In her case, this was not possible at the front end because of the travelling day from Mendoza. She could have done a condensed visit on the departure day by taking a later flight to Buenos Aires. I agree that crossing back and forth is not ideal. We recommend, as an option when staying on the Brazilian side and flying back to Buenos Aires, to spend the last night in Argentina, so that you are on the way to the airport for the next morning’s departure.”

As for a boat ride on the Brazilian side vs. the Argentine side, Maita says, “The experience on the Argentine side is better, as the ride gets closer to the Falls. About 80% of Iguazú Falls lies on the Argentine side of the border. Argentina’s Iguazú National Park contains most of the cascades and walkways, including the famous Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), while Brazil’s Iguaçu National Park offers the panoramic, wide-angle views from across the river. So Argentina has more trails and close-up experiences, while Brazil offers the grand vistas. It’s good to visit both sides: one to feel the falls, the other to see them. This is why you need more time to visit the Argentina side of the Falls than the Brazilian, as you need to walk the Upper Trail, the Lower Trail and take the train to Devil’s Throat, the largest and most spectacular fall, plus take the boat to approach the Falls and the 4WD open truck across the jungle. This takes a full day, while the visit to the Brazilian side takes only a short part of a morning.”

Last but not least, due to the unusual currency situation in Argentina, Maita is currently not able to accept credit cards (as we caution travelers before connecting them with her; see “Wendy’s Pricing Tip” above Maita’s photo on her trip questionnaire), but she did make an exception that allowed Elizabeth to pay the hotels directly with her credit card.

Sunrise over Moai statues at the Easter Island.

“We will never forget the serene silence of the island and the mystery of how the Rapa Nui people carved and carried the innumerable statues.” Photo: Traveler Michael Ruma

Unique and Unforgettable: From Moai to Maipo

We flew to Santiago on February 16 and spent two nights in Chile’s capital city before traveling to Rapa Nui for a blissful week, topped off by a few days in the birthplace of Chilean viticulture before returning home on February 28, 2025.

Navigating the higher costs of airline travel today, I seized the opportunity to secure a reasonable fare to Santiago. We have been fortunate to spend time in Santiago, Patagonia, and Chile in prior travels. Ranked as one of the most remote places on earth, Rapa Nui seemed like a perfect place filled with wanderlust for our first trip of 2025. It also seemed to be a popular choice; as most hotels were fully booked, with luck, I reserved the last room at the Explora Lodge. With airfare and a place to stay, I began to wonder how we would fill in the gaps. With luck, Wendy and her trusted travel expert Maita, along with her itinerary planner Alexander, were quick to answer my questions. We set up time to visit on a virtual call to discuss ideas for yet another perfect itinerary to Chile. With the expertise and local knowledge of Maita and Alexander, they curated outstanding hotels, exceptional drivers, and marvelous guides.

Landing early in Santiago, we made our way through immigration and customs and were carefully chauffeured to the Singular Santiago Hotel. We dropped our bags and enjoyed a guided tour to reorient ourselves to the capital of Chile. Awakening the next day, we charted out a full day to explore the city. From a funicular ride, a trip to the top of the tallest building in South America, a stop for the best empanada in town, and dinner and wine tasting at our favorite, Boca Nariz, Santiago delighted our senses.

The following morning, we enjoyed the nearly 6-hour flight to Rapa Nui. Enjoying all the bustle of the big city but constantly drawn to the connections made in countryside spots, we grew excited to land in Rapa Nui, home to only 9,000 locals and the two daily flights of tourists. Picked up by Explora staff, we were rapidly transferred to the hotel and introduced to the daily program of the lodge. Before lunch, we joined a casual walk to explore the island countryside right out our back door.

Most visitors spend 2 or 3 nights, but we were grateful to have booked a solid week as there is plenty to discover on the island. We spent our days hiking each of the three extinct volcanoes, snorkeling and scuba diving, discovering caves and lava tubes, and dining on nearly everything offered by the lodge. The highlight of our time in Rapa Nui is exceedingly difficult to select as the Moai at sunrise and at the quarry were indescribable, the peak of the Bird Man hike had views of the bluest sea glimmering below the volcanic crater, and the clarity of the ocean water beneath the surface was beyond description. However, we will never forget the serene silence of the island and the mystery of how the Rapa Nui people carved and carried the innumerable statues all around the island.

After hiking many miles and visiting numerous archaeological sites, we left Rapa Nui with a new appreciation of the culture and countless memories. As we boarded our flight back to Santiago, we were reminded of yet another benefit of traveling under the guide of a trusted travel partner. Just prior to takeoff, Alexander sent me a text to inform us nearly the entire country of Chile was suffering a blackout. He assured me the airport was fully operational due to backup generators and our ride to our hotel in Pirque in the Maipo Valley was on their way and would be waiting for us despite the national power outage. Reassured with the seamless teamwork occurring behind the scenes, we enjoyed our departure and flight back to Santiago.

Arriving late to Hotel Las Majadas, we quickly checked in and fell to sleep. Awakening the next day, we explored the beautiful palatial grounds and enjoyed a great breakfast before heading out midday for wine tasting followed by a cocktail making class before dinner.

Recognizing our love of wine, the hotel concierge, Pablo Garcés, joined us at our late lunch, poured us numerous local wines, and made sure to share the secrets of the Maipo Valley and places we should not miss during our stay. One of these closely held secrets included Viña Don Melchor, which recently had their cabernet sauvignon named Wine Spectator’s 2024 Wine of the Year. While we had planned on a hike the last day of our trip, we queried Pablo to see if it was possible to schedule a tasting at Don Melchor and likely due to his relationship with the vineyard, we were able to book a private tasting the next day. Met by the vineyard manager at the large gates of Viña Don Melchor, we were guided through the private gardens, down to the cellar of Casillero del Diablo, and then into the former private home of Don Melchor. We were then seated in an exquisite, contemporary conference room for a private blending tasting to demonstrate how the winemaker creates the best-in-class cabernet.

It may be possible to purchase a plane ticket and book a hotel room. However, without the assistance of Wendy Perrin and her network, we as travelers would never be able to sew the patchwork of professional drivers and adept guides who created the exemplary experiences and special moments during our trip to the Moai and the Maipo.

We had a great trip in Argentina. We lived in Buenos Aires 40 years ago so we were anxious to see it again. We went on a guided city tour. Our guide was very knowledgeable and friendly. We saw many landmarks and neighborhoods including San Telmo and La Boca, the older neighborhoods.

One of the most fun things was the asado experience at a home in Belgrano where we watched and participated in preparing the meats used in a traditional asado. It was fun and delicious. We also went to a Tango show and had a tango lesson. We weren’t very good at it but it was a lot of fun.

Our next stop was Iguazu Falls. What a beautiful place. We had been before but it was just as amazing as before. There are a lot of big and smaller falls. There are walkways that go right up to the biggest ones called Devils Throat. It was breathtaking. The next day we saw it from the Brazilian side. It was just as beautiful. Also in Brazil we went to a bird sanctuary. All the birds had been rescued. We had special tickets and were able to get inside some areas and participate in feeding time. It was a lot of fun.

We spent over a week in Salta and Jujuy in the mountains. The landscapes were incredible. Our driver/guide Roxana was great. We went to Hornocal, a drive up in the mountains over 4300 meters high. It was a beautiful place with a lot of color. Another day we went to the salt flats, also at high altitude. Amazing places but a little hard to breathe if you are not in good shape. One day we had lunch with a shepherd’s family. Not fancy but the food was great. It was a special treat.

We returned to Buenos Aires for our flight back home. On our last night we went to a typical parrilla. We had provoleta, which is grilled cheese, bife de chorizo (wonderful steak) and queso y dulce for dessert. A great ending for a great trip.

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