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Istanbul In-Depth: An Insider’s Guide
This is the medieval Galata Tower, in Istanbul’s colorful Old Town. Photo: Shutterstock
The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Turkey: Earl Starkey of Sophisticated Travel.
Turkey has been Earl’s second home since he first ventured to Cappadocia more than 20 years ago. He started his company in 2002 to offer travelers tailor-made luxury itineraries with a wider array of cultural and culinary experiences than were typically available at the time. He now lives half the year in Istanbul but is constantly crisscrossing the country to stay abreast of the latest hotel, restaurant, and gallery openings and to collect even more uniquely Turkish experiences that other travel firms don’t offer—say, a private cooking lesson in the home of a noted chef or access to a normally off-limits ancient ruin. Earl knows that a guide can make or break a trip, and he is known for handpicking only the savviest, all of them highly educated, personable, and accomplished in their own right.
Where to Stay and Eat
The Four Seasons Bosphorus was once an Ottoman mansion. Photo: Four Seasons
Hotels worth the splurge
The Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus is the best hotel in the city. Book one of the Courtyard rooms or Palace Courtyard rooms, as they’re a third the price of Bosphorus-view rooms—you can enjoy the views of the water from the hotel’s huge terrace or the restaurant and save a fortune. Earl’s travelers receive a full American breakfast, either in their room or in the restaurant, a $100 food and beverage credit, and a one-category upgrade based on availability.
The Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus provides the brand’s signature hospitality and beautiful, modern rooms looking out over the water.
The Peninsula Istanbul is on the Bosphorus in Karaköy, an area with many great restaurants and taverns just across the Galata Bridge from the historic Sultanahmet neighborhood, making it convenient for touring the monuments.
Also with a great location in Karaköy, the JW Marriott offers another five-star alternative with water views, but at a much more competitive price point.
Restaurants the locals love
At Çiya Sofrasi, in Kadıköy, on the Asian side of Istanbul, Chef Musa Dagdeverin is a culinary archaeologist, unearthing long-forgotten Anatolian foods from all over Turkey and preparing them with the finest and freshest ingredients. Go for lunch!
Yeni Lokanta is a favorite: typical Turkish fare but with their own take. The manti, which is a kind of Turkish ravioli, is simply amazing.
Turks often like a simple place that serves international cuisine—pizza, burgers, steak. There are quite a few such restaurants now in Istanbul, and Big Chef is one of the best. You will definitely see mostly locals there.
Best brunch spot
Turks take breakfast very seriously—Turkey is probably the only place in the world where you will be invited to someone’s home for breakfast. The next-best thing is to have a long, leisurely brunch at Kahve 6. Try the cilbir, lush pide bread with a layer of spinach and two poached eggs, or menemen, a Turkish dish of tomatoes and scrambled eggs.
Meals worth the splurge
With two Michelin stars, Turk Fatih Tutak offers Turkish food done to perfection.
Karaköy Lokantasi, recognized by Michelin Bib Gourmand, prepares simple, traditional, and superbly crafted Turkish cuisine in a harborside setting near the Peninsula and JW Marriott.
On a hilltop overlooking the Bosphorus, the glamorous Sunset Grill serves international cuisine with a view like none other. Go when you can sit outside.
Fried fish are a common dish in Istanbul. Photo: Wendy Perrin
Dishes to try
Turkish cuisine is world-class, and there are many dishes worth trying, but one standout is hünkârbeğendi—said to have been a favorite of the sultans. It’s lamb served over an eggplant puree. Delicious! The best place to have it is at Hünkar in Nisantasi. Also try the simit, a bagel-like bread covered in sesame seeds that is a Turkish staple for snacking. You can find vendors who sell them everywhere. And, of course the mezes, a myriad of small appetizers, are delicious.
Doner kebab, meat (traditionally lamb) cooked on a vertical rotisserie and sliced thinly for serving, is a Turkish dish known the world over. But why not try it in Istanbul at Hamdi (Sultanahmet), where you can enjoy doner and much more with an excellent view of the Bosphorus.
What to See and Do
Hagia Sophia, currently a mosque, has also been a cathedral and a museum. Photo: Earl Starkey
Don’t miss
The Asian side of Istanbul, which has many worthwhile places to see, including the beautiful summer home of the sultans, Beylerbeyi Palace; the charming little village of Kuzguncuk; Kadıköy and its teeming markets; and Çamlıca Hill, which has incomparable views of the Bosphorus.
Don’t bother
Staying in Sultanahmet. Istanbul’s Old City is no doubt beautiful, but it’s also very touristic and you miss out on the real day-to-day life of Istanbul if you stay there. It’s better to base yourself on the European side, where the hotels and restaurants are better. (Both the Old City and the European side are in Europe, but the European side is called that because the embassies to the Ottoman Empire are located there.)
Hidden gem
Rustem Pasha Mosque is a beautiful little mosque with Iznik tile that’s hidden down an alleyway near the Spice Market; it’s definitely worth searching out.
Cheap thrills
Istanbul’s parks are largely overlooked by visitors. Emirgan Park covers 117 acres and is home to April’s Tulip Festival and three lovely pavilions. The Pink and Yellow pavilions are in the Ottoman style, while the White, now a restaurant, is neoclassical. Yıldız Park, once the imperial gardens of the palace of Sultan Abdülhamid II, is filled with plants from all over the world and has commanding views of the Bosphorus. A porcelain factory that was established there in the nineteenth century, during the reign of Abdülhamid II, is still in operation today.
Cross the Bosphorus on a public commuter ferry between Europe and Asia; this 20- to 30-minute trip will set you back less than a dollar. Sip a cup of tea (order from one of the circulating vendors by asking for “Çay lütfen”) and try not to be gobsmacked by the iconic views.
Downtime
Take a ferry across the Sea of Marmara to lush and lovely Büyükada, the largest of the Princes’ Islands. It’s like going back in time: There are no cars, so you tour the island by bicycle or horse-drawn carriage.
A visit to the ancient Monastery of St. Nicholas is considered a pilgrimage, but beware, the hill is steep.
If you don’t spend a night at the Splendid Palace Hotel in Büyükada, at least go for a cocktail. Entering this 110-year-old gem is like stepping back in time.
The Blue Mosque is an icon of Ottoman architecture.
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Best Times to Go
April, for the annual tulip festival, when the city is awash in millions of colorful blooms.
May, June, September, and October, when the weather is at its sunny-and-mild best and before the heat and humidity of summer or the gray rains of winter set in.
December: Istanbullus love the trappings of Christmas, and they have turned New Year’s into a similar celebration, with the city beautifully decorated with lights. There’s a huge fireworks display on New Year’s Eve, a night that families get together to exchange gifts and share a special meal.
Worst Time to Go
There’s no bad time to come to Istanbul; it’s a vibrant city year-round. Even in winter you can sit outside, as the restaurants all provide outdoor heating. If you’re sensitive to heat, August can be steamy, but not unbearably so—you can always find a cool place to sit.
Biggest Rookie Mistake
Turks are a friendly and very helpful people, but they are naturally reserved. They would not normally approach someone unless they perceived they were having a problem. If someone comes up to you and starts chatting, they either want money or to sell you something. These touts can be charming, but they can also waste your time—so be wary.
Bragging Rights
Earl can arrange a tour that includes a visit to the rooftop of the Grand Bazaar (off-limits to most everyone but James Bond, as seen in the movie Skyfall) or a climb to the top of a minaret.
Instagram Moment
Galata Tower is popular with tourists for a reason: Come at the end of the day and put up with the crowds for a glorious photo of the sun setting on the Bosphorus and the city bathed in a warm pink glow.
Scam Alert
Be careful of the taxi drivers in Istanbul, especially the ones from the airport. It’s always best to take taxis from hotels or restaurants where they’re familiar with the taxi stand. If you must hail a cab on the street, make sure there is writing on the side of the taxi; it means they are from a taxi stand and more likely reliable. If you feel you are being ripped off or have any trouble, take down the taxi’s number. A common scam is that you give the driver a big bill and he shows you a smaller bill and says you didn’t give him enough money.
Airport Intel
Istanbul Airport is modern and easy to navigate. It’s good to have a euro coin or a lira coin so that you can get a luggage cart. The baggage allowance on domestic flights is lower than on international flights, so you may want to leave some of your luggage in the secure luggage room to avoid paying extra charges for overweight bags.
The Souvenirs
Evil eyes, lanterns, and hookah pipes make perfect souvenirs and can be found all over the Grand Bazaar in a wide range of prices.
Turkish towels are renowned the world over: Haremlique sells excellent ones and also has great linens.
You can’t go wrong at Armaggan, a magnificent store with unique and gorgeous designer items from Turkey.
Nakkas has excellent carpets and beautiful jewelry.
Tipping Tip
You cannot leave a tip on your credit card; tip in cash. Ten percent is customary in restaurants. Turkish people do not tip taxi drivers.
Don’t Forget to Pack
Women should bring a headscarf for visiting mosques. Some of the streets are made of cobblestones, so a comfortable pair of shoes is a must.
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