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Secrets of Peru: Insider’s Guide to What to See Beyond Machu Picchu
Don't miss the Sacred Valley, located between Cusco and Machu Picchu. Photo: Shutterstock
The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Peru: Marisol Mosquera of Aracari.
A native Peruvian, Marisol chucked a career in the financial world to become a pioneer in experiential travel to Peru and Bolivia; she also plans trips that combine the Galápagos with either country. She and trusted colleague Mark Green—a Brit who guided trips in South America for many years and is married to a Peruvian—work with a network of prominent historians, chefs, museum directors, and fashion designers to deliver privileged access to people and places throughout the region. They are used to working with high-powered businesspeople for whom seamless execution is a prerequisite, but sustainability is also part of their bottom line. Call on Marisol if you want an out-of-the-box version of the region’s iconic sites—a private tented camp in the rainforest, or tips for avoiding the lines at Machu Picchu—or if you want to explore the hidden pockets that most travelers miss, from the oldest city in the Americas to a little-known protected reserve next to Bolivia’s Uyuni salt flats.
Where to Stay and Eat
Best bang-for-your-buck hotel
Located in the heart of Barranco—Lima’s bohemian neighborhood—the charming Villa Barranco immerses guests in the city’s art and cultural scene. Inside this carefully restored 1920s home are nine spacious rooms, each with a private garden, patio, or balcony. The rooftop terrace is perfectly positioned for views over the coastal promenade. (You can have your own private slice of this rooftop vista if you book the split-level master suite.) Hip art galleries, bars, cafes, and creative art and concept stores are a stroll away.
Lima’s historic bohemian Barranco district is known for its artistic vibe. Photo: Shutterstock
Restaurants the locals love
La Preferida is a lively, casual place where people stand at the bar and even outside to nibble on small plates. Order the pulpo al olivo, which are octopus tapas on crackers with an olive sauce; the causa and ceviche are also delicious.
Set in a converted house in Lima’s Barranco neighborhood, Isolina is a modern tavern that recreates simple and seasonal Spanish and African-influenced Criollo dishes as they would traditionally be prepared at home. Their ceviche pairs lime-marinated fresh fish with the crunchy texture of fried octopus. Heaven!
Meal worth the splurge (and the wait)
The MIL Immersion is chef Virgilio Martinez’s widely acclaimed restaurant in the Sacred Valley. The half-day Immersion experience includes a visit to the fields where Quechua farmers grow some of MIL’s produce, a walk on a botanical path with an explanation of the plants’ medicinal and aromatic purposes, stops at the restaurant’s distillation and cacao labs, and an eight-course tasting menu.
Dish to try
Any dessert made of lucuma, a fruit that is native to Peru. Not only is lucuma the perfect match to chocolate, it is full of antioxidants—so you can indulge without the guilt.
Mercado de Surquillo is a vibrant, authentic local market in Lima. Photo: Brook Wilkinson
What to See and Do
Don’t miss
Caral isn’t well known outside Peru, but it was the first civilization in all of the Americas; its formidable pyramids are roughly 5,000 years old. Today, Caral also has the distinction of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It may not be as well preserved as Machu Picchu, but it gets a tiny fraction of the visitors.
Don’t bother
Visiting Vinicunca, or Rainbow Mountain. The colors are much more subdued in person than in the filtered and manipulated images you see on Instagram. Plus, the place has become so popular that it’s very difficult to get a shot from any viewpoint without hundreds of people in the background.
Most underrated places
The Peruvian Amazon. When travelers think of the Amazon, they typically think of Brazil. In fact, Peru’s Amazonian national parks are some of the largest in South America, and you’ll find lodges and cruises here with a very high level of comfort and excellent guides. Marisol can even arrange for a totally private tented camp in one of these parks.
Yes, it’s possible to cruise the Peruvian Amazon in style. Photo: Aracari
In Lima, the Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI) offers a brilliant showcase of Peruvian creativity across centuries, from exquisite pre-Hispanic objects to contemporary works. Housed in a grand 19th-century Beaux-Arts building, the museum’s collection provides an unparalleled narrative of Peru’s artistic heritage, placing ancient traditions in conversation with the country’s vibrant modern scene.
Most overrated place
The Uros islands—the floating villages made of reed and mud on Lake Titicaca—are a contrived experience. The people who show you around will claim that they live on these islands, but they no longer do; it’s now entirely set up for tourists.
Hidden gems
Located in the cloud forest in northern Peru, spectacular Kuélap is the main site of the Chachapoyas culture, a warrior-nation that built this amazing fortress using more stones than in the Great Pyramid of Giza. If you go to Kuélap, visit the nearby Leymebamba Museum to see the amazing collection of well-preserved mummies, and stay at Kentitambo, a wonderful six-room ecolodge with gorgeous gardens and an abundance of hummingbirds.
The walled settlement of Kuelap, Peru, was built in the sixth century. Photo: Aracari
Further south, in the Andes’ Valley of the Giants, Tinajani is a tented hamlet that is redefining low-impact luxury. Designed for just 12 guests, it offers safari-style accommodations against a backdrop of dramatic red-rock formations. Through ancestral cooking, warm hospitality, and immersive landscapes, Tinajani is both a soft place to land and a gateway to adventure in one of Peru’s most untouched corners.
Bosque Guardián Lodge marks the first high-end accommodations in Peru’s temperate cloud forest; it’s located within a private reserve in the eastern foothills of the Andes. Sustainability-focused activities there range from harvesting honey produced by tiny indigenous bees, to making artisanal paper from the trunks of banana trees, to swimming in waterfall lagoons.
Cheap thrill
Paragliding off the coast of Lima’s Miraflores district. For less than $100, the views are unbelievable, the ride smooth and exhilarating, and the safety standards high. This is best done from December through April, and on the odd sunny day the rest of the year.
Paraglide off the coast of Lima’s Miraflores district for unbelievable views. Photo: Shutterstock
The souvenirs
Anything from Artesanías Las Pallas, in the artsy Barranco district of Lima. Welsh owner Mari Solari carefully curates her selection of the best Peruvian handicrafts from the Andes to the Amazon. Her shop is more like an art gallery that has the best folk-art collection in the country.
In Miraflores, the studio of designer Susan Wagner offers a window into Peru’s contemporary design scene. Alongside her own pieces, the space showcases work by other creators who are blending modern aesthetics with traditional techniques from the Andes. The result is a thoughtful mix of fashion, homewares, textiles, and accessories that speak to Peru’s evolving creative landscape.
How to spend a Sunday
If you are in Cusco, go to the cathedral at 6:30am to hear the morning mass. Not only will you have time to admire the beautiful architecture, paintings, and impressive Baroque altars, but the sound of the sacred songs being chanted in Quechua and echoing through the stone structure is a stunning musical experience in itself.
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Best Time to Go
Late April (avoiding Easter week) is ideal for many of the country’s regions: It’s the start of the dry season in the Andes, sunny and warm on the coast near Lima, and also a good time weather-wise in northern Peru. And since it’s not yet high season, you’ll find fewer crowds and lower prices.
Worst Time to Go
The second half of June through August. This is peak season for both international and domestic travelers, and the infrastructure around Machu Picchu in particular becomes severely overstretched.
Biggest Rookie Mistake
Not giving Lima enough time or, worse yet, skipping the capital entirely. A stroll through the city reveals a colorful mix of cultures and ethnic groups, from descendants of pre-Hispanic civilizations to Asian and European immigrants; it’s also the epicenter of the recent explosion of Peruvian cuisine onto the world stage.
Don't Forget to Pack
Sunblock! When you’re at high altitudes in the Andes, you’re just as likely to get sunburned as you are at the beach—if not more so.
Can't-Miss Photo Op
Downtown Lima has many Arabic moucharaby balconies with elaborate lattice and tile work. Some of the most beautiful are at the Archbishop’s Palace on the Plaza Mayor. Walk under the balconies until you reach the corner facing the Government Palace. For a great perspective from below, have your companion go down the small set of stairs to get a shot with the balconies behind you.
Airport Intel
If you book Marisol’s VIP airport service, a representative will meet you at the aircraft and, avoiding the main terminals, escort you to a quiet lounge where you can await your luggage as your customs form is filled out for you. They will then guide you through customs—bypassing all other passengers—and to your car for a private transfer to your Lima hotel.
Word of Warning
Don’t expect your room at the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge to have a view of Machu Picchu. While this is the only hotel that isn’t separated from the ruins by a 25-minute bus ride up a steep, switchbacking road, none of its rooms actually overlook the site.
Tipping Tip
Though not customary in local restaurants, tipping has become common in cities such as Lima, where a ten percent gratuity is the norm.
Bragging Rights
Enjoy a fascinating, educational private conversation with Peter Frost, one of the foremost modern authorities on the Andes and Peru’s ancient civilizations. He’ll join you in your hotel lounge for an informal, unscripted session covering decades of exploration, from lost Inca cities to remote cloud-forest valleys. Frost, who rediscovered the Inca site of Qoriwayrachina, brings history vividly to life through personal stories, photography, and firsthand encounters that few travelers ever see.
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