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Insider’s Guide to Québec: From Historic Cities to Forested Wilderness
Québec's countryside lights up in fall. Photo: Shutterstock
The insider advice on this page is from Wendy’s Trusted Travel Expert for Québec: Yoann Ronsin of Sentiers Privés.
Yoann is passionate about revealing to travelers the many charms of his native province: centuries-old, French-inflected culture; whales and black bears glimpsed in the wild; culinary highlights of Montreal and Quebec City; and outdoor pursuits that range from zip lining, golfing, and canoeing in the summer (Yoann started his career as a hiking guide) to snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in winter. His travelers can rent a car (or drive from home) to explore the region, or save time and get more remote with the help of seaplanes, helicopters, and private jets. And if Toronto is your entry point, Yoann can arrange a few days there to see Niagara Falls and go wine tasting.
What to See and Do
Don’t miss
Hire a seaplane to take you on a 30-minute flight from Montreal to one of the many lakes northeast of the city, where you can go fishing, canoeing, paddleboarding, hiking, or quad-biking.
A seaplane can zip you from city to lakeshore in just 30 minutes. Photo: JG Pothier
Most Underrated Place
The Eastern Townships run along Québec’s border with Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine. This region has beautiful mountains and lakes for outdoor exploration, and farms and vineyards turning out delicious wine and cheese. Overnight at Manoir Hovey, a five-star Relais & Châteaux property that is widely considered the best resort in Canada.
Most Overrated Place
Niagara Falls is the definition of mass tourism in Canada. If you really want to see the falls, do it by helicopter, then land in a vineyard for a wine tasting and lunch before overnighting in quaint Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Hidden Gem
Charlevoix is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve that encompasses landscapes as varied as tidal marshes, riverine fjords, and mountain tundra, much of which is protected by the region’s two national parks. Yoann can send you there via helicopter, even landing on top of a mountain or close to a lighthouse.
Enjoy this view from the top of Mont du Dôme in Charlevoix. Photo: Shutterstock
Local Thrill
Montreal is the capital of circus in the Americas and home of Cirque du Soleil; they always test out their new shows here before sending them across the globe. Yoann can get you a tour of the headquarters, as well as VIP access during and after a show to meet the artists.
Bragging rights
Explore Montreal with an internationally acclaimed street artist, then join him at his workshop for a hands-on painting lesson. The workshop is in an artsy district of Montreal that most city tours don’t cover, but where you may see neighbors producing sculptures or working on a new piece of music.
Some of the best parts of the province of Québec are accessible only by seaplane or helicopter. Yoann can arrange a flightseeing trip with a picnic lunch or sunset appetizers beside a lake in the middle of nowhere.
Where to Stay and Eat
Best bang-for-your-buck hotel
Le Baluchon is an eco-resort with a working farm between Montreal and Québec City; most of the guests are local families enjoying time in the countryside. You can go horseback riding, canoeing, fly fishing, and hiking, all without leaving the 1,000-acre property. The accommodations range from rustic cabins to the six-bedroom Manor House; Yoann’s favorite is the Canoer’s Chalet, a glassy, standalone building on the riverbank that sleeps 12 people.
A cozy cabin at Le Baluchon. Photo: Le Baluchon
Best-value splurge hotel
Auberge Saint-Antoine is a four-star Relais & Châteaux property in Old Québec City. Construction of the hotel revealed archaeological sites dating back to the 1600s, which have been preserved beside the new structures; artifacts are also on display in both public areas and the 95 guest rooms. Beyond the history, what stands out here is the excellent service, led by a Les Clef d’Or concierge. The restaurant, Chez Muffy, is housed in an old warehouse and is one of the five best tables in the city. Book a Luxe Terrace room and enjoy your welcome drink on your balcony overlooking the Saint Lawrence River (though beware that your view will be obstructed by cruise ships docked right outside in September and October).
A suite at Auberge Saint-Antoine. Photo: Auberge Saint-Antoine
Dish to try
The potence at Sagamité, a First Nations restaurant in Québec city. This is a traditional preparation of various meats, cooked tableside over an open flame.
Prime Picnic Spot
Île d’Orléans is 20 minutes down the Saint Lawrence River from Québec City. The island is renknowned for its food purveyors, so you can fill your picnic basket with local strawberries, wine, bread, and cheese, then lay out your blanket on any inviting spot near the water.
Fall colors in Saint-François-de-l’Île-d’Orléans, not far from Québec City. Photo: Shutterstock
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Best Times to Go
June through August is the best time for families who want to be active—think zip-lining, kayaking, hiking, even a helicopter-aided picnic at the top of a mountain peak.
September and October have lovely fall foliage, the weather is ideal for golfing, and it’s harvest season in the vineyards (though during these months, Québec City gets crowded on certain days of the week with cruise-ship day-trippers).
Worst Times to Go
November and April are both very wet (and in April, muddy too), and most tourist activities are closed.
Biggest Rookie Mistake
Booking a private zodiac for a fall whale-watching excursion from Tadoussac. These smaller boats are great in summer, but when the weather gets colder you want a larger vessel with the option to retreat indoors. The 400- to 600-passenger boats often have a special top deck and lounge accessible only to a few dozen passengers with VIP tickets (also granting them access to the wheelhouse and the captain).
Can't-Miss Photo Op
Take the ferry across the river from Québec City to the Terrasse du Chevalier-de-Lévis. The view from here is spectacular, especially at sunset and with the old city walls lit up at night.
Navigating the Airport
The ArriveCAN app lets you submit your customs and immigration declaration up to 72 hours before arrival and access express lanes at the airport—thereby reducing what can be a two-hour wait to just ten minutes.
If you’re flying from Toronto (the main gateway for Eastern Canada) to Montreal, you don’t have to fight the traffic to Pearson Airport, 15 miles outside the city. Instead, book your flight from Toronto City Airport, which is on an island just off downtown.
The Souvenir
The small boutique at the Huron-Wendat Museum, 20 minutes from Québec City, sells exquisite handicrafts made by the province’s seven First Nations.
Tipping Tip
15% is common; for superb service, you can go up to 18 to 20%.
Don’t Forget to Pack
Comfortable walking shoes; fancy footwear doesn’t pair well with Montreal and Québec City’s cobblestones.
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