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Amalfi Coast: Insider’s Guide to the Ultimate Seaside Italian Holiday
Check out the view from the terrace of Le Sirenuse, Positano, Italy. Photo: Stefano Scatà
The insider travel advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Italy: Andrea Grisdale of IC Bellagio.
Armed with decades of experience in Italy (she lives on Lake Como) and the vast list of contacts in her little black book, Andrea can open the doors that are closed to most people (not, alas, George Clooney’s) and satisfy most any request. She interviews travelers in depth to gain a thorough understanding of their travel fantasies, preferences, and pet peeves, and uses that knowledge to craft an itinerary that pairs you with the perfect hotels, activities, guides, and even drivers. A bilingual former guide herself, Andrea knows every time-saving trick for seeing the most famous monuments while also squeezing in the hidden gems. She and her team have the clout to pull strings and ask for favors at Italy’s best hotels, and they have a track record of coming to the rescue 24/7 should the need arise.
Where to Stay and Eat
Best bang-for-your-buck hotels
Perched high above the Amalfi Coast with sweeping views of the Mediterranean, Borgo Santandrea is a cliffside sanctuary with floor-to-ceiling windows, a private beach accessible by elevator, and terraced gardens that seem to flow into the sea.
Villa Treville is subtly tucked into the cliffs of Positano. Photo: IC Bellagio
Once the private estate of legendary director Franco Zeffirelli, Villa Treville is an exclusive retreat with just a handful of suites nestled among lush gardens and dramatic cliffs. The Bianca Bar has an Arabian-inspired ambience and makes use of herbs and botanicals from the hotel’s own garden.
On a cliff overlooking the Bay of Naples, Hotel Bellevue Syrene is a 19th-century villa in Sorrento that was once a private residence of Italian aristocracy. The grounds have an infinity pool, a spa solarium, and original Roman ruins that are part of the foundation.
Views across the hills of Positano grace most ocean-facing windows on the Amalfi Coast. Photo: IC Bellagio
Restaurants the locals love
Casa Mele reimagines classic Amalfi Coast flavors with a contemporary twist, offering tasting menus both gastronomically refined and deeply rooted in local culture. The focal point of the intimate dining room is the modern, open kitchen—a popular venue for cooking classes—where you can see the chefs at work.
In the heart of Ravello, Cumpa’Cosimo is a beloved local institution run by the legendary Mamma Netta. This rustic trattoria has been welcoming guests for decades with generous portions of homemade pasta, traditional Campanian dishes, and an atmosphere that feels like dining in a family home.
O’Parrucchiano is set in an 18th-century villa in Sorrento with a menu focused on classic, hearty Neapolitan dishes. Guests dine in a lemon-grove garden setting with twinkling lights, or in an elegant atrium and historic dining room overlooking it.
Meal worth the splurge
At the luxurious hotel Il San Pietro di Positano, Zass offers panoramic views from a terrace suspended over the Amalfi Coast. The Michelin-starred menu by Chef Alois Vanlangenaeker celebrates Mediterranean flavors using fresh produce from the hotel’s own organic gardens, blending traditional Campanian roots with creative flair for both land and sea dishes. Expect culinary adventurousness with seafood, pastas, and truffle sauce.
What to See and Do
Don’t miss
Discover Capri in style with a private yacht tour along the crystal-clear waters of the Mediterranean. Cruise past hidden caves, dramatic cliffs, and secluded coves, taking in iconic sights like the Faraglioni rocks and the island’s panoramas from a unique perspective. Onboard, relaxation is only interrupted for swimming or snorkeling in turquoise waters.
The trio of towering sea stacks of Faraglioni rise from the Mediterranean. Photo: IC Bellagio
Don’t bother
The Blue Grotto is Capri’s most popular attraction and stunning to behold, but you’ll pay a lot and wait a long time to be rowed around this loud, crowded cave. The entire island is surrounded by equally beautiful grottoes and tiny beaches that are completely overlooked and can be enjoyed privately and in your own sweet time.
Hidden gems
Visit the coastal town of Minori and its artisanal treasures, starting with one of the oldest ceramic workshops in the region, where skilled artisans create exquisite handmade ceramics. Continue to the ancient Villa Romana, a first-century gem whose mysterious origins still puzzle historians. Experience the zesty flavor of Amalfi’s most famous liqueur with a visit to a local limoncello factory.
Immerse yourself in the natural beauty of Tramonti by hiking ancient mule tracks through charming villages, historic churches, and terraces of centuries-old vines. Visit a local dairy farm and end your adventure with a delicious meal at a traditional trattoria, surrounded by vineyards, lemon groves, and the quiet of nature.
Cheap thrills
In Naples, taste a slice of authentic Pizza Margherita at legendary pizzerias like Da Michele, Sorbillo, or Antonio & Antonio. Sink your teeth into the perfect combination of soft, chewy dough, rich tomato sauce, creamy mozzarella, and fresh basil.
All the main villages on the Amalfi Coast are very well connected by public boat service. You can jump on a hydrofoil and easily reach Cetara, Maiori, Minori, and Amalfi. Stroll through the pedestrian city center in Amalfi, then take the hydrofoil to Capri, stopping in Positano and Sorrento.
Most underrated place
Explore Naples’ vibrant Sanità district, full of art, history, and flavor. Begin at Porta San Gennaro, visit the Jago Museum, the Hypogeum of Cristallini, and historic palaces. Andrea can arrange for you to craft your own nativity in the presepe tradition and finish with a decadent chocolate tasting in a historic factory.
Downtime
The Fontelina beach club lets you lounge opposite the Faraglioni rocks. Photo: IC Bellagio
Indulge in ultimate relaxation at one of the region’s iconic beach clubs. Lounge on sun-kissed terraces, take a refreshing dip in the turquoise waters, or sip a cocktail while enjoying breathtaking coastal views. Popular spots include the glamorous La Scogliera in Positano, the chic Arienzo Beach Club, and the very local Da Adolfo—all perfect places to soak up the sun and embrace the leisurely charm of this stunning coastline.
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Best Times to Go
October, when the cruise throngs have thinned, hotel prices have dropped (a little), there’s still plenty of sun, and the sea is perfect for swimming. April is also lovely and quiet, though the surf is on the chilly side. The liveliest time of year is summer, when the coast bustles and the Ravello Music Festival offers a break from the beach with an international roster of classical, jazz, pop, and dance performers.
Whenever you go, the best time to visit Capri and Ischia is late afternoon, when the day trippers have all gone home. It’s much quieter, not as hot, and you can truly relax and enjoy these beautiful islands in a much more relaxed way.
Worst Time to Go
Mid-November through mid-March, when most shops, restaurants, and bars are closed for the season. But even then the weather is pleasantly mild, the locals are welcoming, and they have more time to stop and engage in conversation with you.
Biggest Rookie Mistakes
Driving on the Amalfi Coast is best left to the pros: Buses move along the narrow, curving roads at remarkable speed and with little regard for cars, and parking spaces are virtually impossible to find. Best to hire a car and driver, or take one of the frequent and efficient local buses.
Taking the ferry to Capri instead of the hydrofoil. The ferry takes much longer and is a waste of time that would be better spent on shore. And remember: Never buy hydrofoil tickets in advance. If you decide to take an earlier or later departure, you may not be able to use your advance-purchase ticket. Buying at the port allows for much more flexibility.
Thinking that Sorrento is part of the Amalfi Coast. It’s actually around the corner of the headland and located on the Bay of Naples. Though it’s a short distance away, you’ll need to allow at least 40 minutes to drive between the two, due to the traffic and curvy roads.
Instagram Moments
The rooftop terrace of Positano’s Hotel Villa Franca is one of the highest points in town and offers sweeping views of the coast and the Li Galli Islands in the distance.
The views of the coastline from the best possible place—the sea itself—as you cruise along in your private boat or kayak.
Ristorante La Fontelina, in Capri, has stunning views of the Faraglioni, the famous rocks off the coast.
Bragging Rights
Venture into one of Italy’s top kitchens for a master class in cucina Amalfitana with Michelin-starred chef Alfonso Iaccarino, who has perfected the art at his Don Alfonso restaurant. Using produce from his organic farm, you’ll get to prepare and taste traditional dishes, then visit the wine cellars carved out of rock by the Etruscans.
Jackie Kennedy spent most of her holidays on the Amalfi Coast and became the most iconic symbol of La Dolce Vita. Andrea can arrange for you to enjoy a day out in Jackie’s very own Fiat 600 Multipla, a car custom-made for her by former Fiat owner Gianni Agnelli. After a drive and lunch in one of the places Jackie loved most, enjoy the sea breeze from a private gozzo (local boat) idling along the spectacular coastline, as Jackie used to often do.
The Souvenirs
Nobody leaves without at least one bottle of local limoncello. Buy it at Amalfi’s Bottega dei Ferrari di Luisa Damasco, which you’ll find in an ancient arched alleyway between the Piazza Duomo and the Piazza dei Dogi.
Capri is full of handmade sandals, the loveliest of which can be found at Canfora, on the Via Camerelle. You can also snag a gorgeous pair in Positano at Safari, just above the main beach.
Those heading to Ischia may want to take home a bottle of the local wine for a special occasion: Biancolella is a fresh white with a hint of citrus and Mediterranean herbs.
Must-Have Apps
Capri Schedule provides ferry and hydrofoil schedules between Capri and Naples, Sorrento, and Castellammare in real time. It will also find the ferry port closest to your location.
OsmAnd offers reliable navigation offline, ideal for driving or hiking along steep Amalfi roads.
TheFork is handy for last-minute restaurant bookings in hot spots like Amalfi or Positano.
Tipping Tip
Tipping is appreciated but not at all expected. In restaurants and taxis, 10 percent is sufficient. If the person serving you is also the owner of the business, they would never expect a tip.
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