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Bogotá, Colombia: Insider’s Guide

by wendyperrin.com | October 3, 2024

The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Colombia: Boris Seckovic of Amakuna.

Trusted Travel Expert
Boris Seckovic

After settling down in Medellin with his Colombian wife, this British expat sought out a way to earn a living in his adopted home—and saw an opportunity to become the first high-end travel company based in this diverse and emerging destination. Now fully ensconced in the culture, Boris is constantly traveling the length and breadth of Colombia to discover and develop new opportunities for his travelers, from paragliding in coffee country to stargazing in the desert with an astronomy professor. He can arrange for you to cook alongside a cutting-edge chef, visit an Amazon lodge that works hand-in-hand with the community, explore Bogota’s gallery scene with an art expert, or road-trip between indigenous villages and UNESCO-quality pre-Hispanic sites. He is well-connected at the country’s handful of boutique hotels; for larger parties that want some room to spread out, Boris also has a portfolio of private homes and fincas, some of which aren’t available to the public.

Expect trips orchestrated by Boris to start at $1,000 per day for two travelers in low season, depending on the level of accommodations and the number of different destinations and private experiences.

What to See and Do

Most underrated experience
The art scene in Bogota is electrifying and cool. Art has liberated this city, and that is conveyed by the ubiquity of street art and the profusion of galleries and exhibitions. You will see many tangible expressions of a Colombia in the midst of its renaissance. Explore the art district in the San Felipe neighborhood (between 72nd and 80th streets/Caracas and 24th avenues) or check out the Museum of Modern Art.

Cheap thrills
Stroll through Paloquemao Market, a dynamic local scene and the largest food market in Bogota. You’ll find a bountiful variety of produce not available in other parts of the world. Boris’ guides can point you to the best flavors amid the chaos, including the lesser-known eateries that lack signage. The sweet spot for visiting is 11 a.m., after the locals have finished their morning shopping so the vendors have time to chat and offer samples.

The view of Bogota from Monserrate at dusk, Colombia.

Some of the best views of Bogota are from Monserrate. Photo: Shutterstock

For spectacular views of the city from above 10,000 feet, take either the funicular or cable car up Monserrate mountain, home to a 17th-century monastery. Historically a sacred place for the Muisca pre-Hispanic community, the mountain today is a pilgrimage site for Catholics. Afterward stroll through the historic La Candelaria district in the heart of the city, which bustles with street art and culture. Here you can visit the Botero Museum as well as the standout Gold Museum, home to the largest collection of gold artifacts in the world and containing approximately 34,000 gold pieces, as well as 20,000 bone, stone, ceramic, and textile articles from 13 pre-Hispanic societies.

How to spend a lazy Sunday
The flea market in the Usaquen neighborhood has a lively atmosphere and is family-friendly. It’s open every Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. You can stroll for hours among the many stalls, finding bizarre and unique items from hand-knit sweaters to antique coffee makers. Enjoy lunch along with the local crowd at Cafe Amarti, a rustic and relaxed Italian restaurant serving delicious wood-fired pizza. Make sure to experience the Sunday ciclovia when the main roads are closed to traffic and the locals take to the streets to run, cycle, rollerblade, or simply stroll.

Where to Stay and Eat

Best bang-for-your-buck hotel
The Sofitel Victoria Regia is an elegant, French-style hotel located near the trendy and upscale Zona T; you can walk from here to any number of great bars and restaurants. The service is impeccable, it’s home to the best hotel breakfast in Bogota, and there’s no better value in town for a luxury hotel. It’s worth paying slightly more to upgrade from the Classic rooms to the Superior category, which are a bit larger and better positioned; the Junior Suites come with a separate living area and balcony.

bar area Four Seasons Casa Medina Bogota Colombia

Castanyoles restaurant, in the atrium of the Four Seasons Casa Medina. Photo: Four Seasons

Best-value splurge hotel
Four Seasons Casa Medina is the city’s most luxurious hotel. It is housed inside an iconic 1946 building and located in the vibrant Zona G district, the “G” standing for gourmet. In recent years the area has seen a boom, with the opening of new hotels, designer boutiques, and avant-garde dining options that have livened up what was traditionally a quiet, upscale neighborhood. Staying in Zona G means that you are within walking distance of the majority of the city’s top eateries. No two of Casa Medina’s incredibly ornate rooms are alike, but all are full of character. Boris’ favorite is number 303, a very spacious one-bedroom suite with its own wood-burning fireplace and a huge bathroom.

Restaurants the locals love
Mini-Mal in Chapinero: It’s known for sourcing many of its ingredients from local farmers and indigenous communities, and emphasizing organic and environmentally friendly practices. The menu showcases the diverse landscapes and cultural influences of Colombia, including Amazonian, Pacific, and Andean flavors.

Nueve in Quinta Camacho: a relaxed eatery and wine lover’s paradise (any of the 162 wines can be had by the glass) set in a chalet-inspired traditional Bogota house, serving tapas-style dishes that blend Colombian and Mediterranean flavors. The suckling pig is the standout.

El Chato in Chapinero: Seasonal, unusual, and forgotten Colombian ingredients make the cut at this hip restaurant that, as of 2024, occupies the 25th spot on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The two-story space is intimate and bustling, with a moodily lit dining room on the ground floor. The chef, Alvaro Clavijo, takes classic, local dishes and delivers his personal twist; imagine chicken hearts, new potatoes, egg yolk, and sorrel.

El Bandido in Chapinero: This spot is known for booking some of the city’s best jazz bands and cover acts nightly. The French bistro fare is decent, but you’re really here for the electric atmosphere. Within the restaurant is El Enano, a low-light, intimate bar serving craft cocktails.

Last, but certainly not least, is the legendary Andres Carne de Res. Dining here is not about the traditional, well prepared local dishes but, rather, the excellent Colombian music and surreal, festive atmosphere. The original spot in Chia (about an hour outside of Bogota) is THE place to visit for a true cultural experience, although the central Bogota location provides a good introduction to the concept. This is the place that Colombians go to celebrate their birthdays—and dance all night!

Dish to try
Lechona, a classic Colombian party dish: You can’t go wrong with a pig that’s been slow-roasted for hours, liberally seasoned with herbs and spices, and stuffed with rice, egg, and vegetables. This absolutely delicious dish is widely available in Paloquemao market (see “Cheap Thrills”).

Meal worth the splurge
Restaurant Leo is a bold journey through the history and diversity that exists in Colombia. It is run by critically acclaimed chef Leonor Espinosa and her daughter Laura, who is the sommelier. Their tasting menu beautifully blends Colombian culture and tradition with modern technique, using indigenous Colombian ingredients such as wild rodents, ants, or fish sourced from the Amazon. If you’re adventurous enough to try such dishes, Leo delivers a unique culinary experience that pays tribute to Bogota’s emerging and robust food scene.

Contact Boris

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Best Time to Go

Bogota’s climate holds constant year-round, and no matter the month, you’ll find plenty to see and do in Colombia’s cosmopolitan capital. ARTBO, an art fair that is steadily gaining international recognition, takes place every October.

Worst Time to Go

The last two weeks of December: The city empties out when people go home for the holidays. The upside is that you’ll bypass unpleasant crowds, but some restaurants and attractions will be closed.

Can't-Miss Photo Op

Only 45 minutes north of Bogota sits Zipaquira, a Spanish colonial-style town popularized by a cathedral built 650 feet underground in an abandoned salt mine. Leave plenty of time to weave through the various tunnels and arches. It’s never overly crowded, and the neon lights and shadows make for an Instagram-worthy photo shoot.

Don't Forget To Pack

A lightweight umbrella or raincoat to keep with you at all times. Colombians laugh when you ask if they’ve checked the forecast: Weather is known to change frequently here. The good news is that when it rains, it doesn’t last long.

The Souvenir

The purest emeralds on earth are mined in Colombia and can far exceed the cost of diamonds that are the same size. You’ll find reputable shops selling high-quality stones in Bogota’s Emerald District.

Bragging Rights

Bogota is Colombia’s cultural and artistic epicenter, so Boris loves to connect travelers with noteworthy locals who can explain better than anyone the way art and innovation have shaped this blossoming city. Travelers can enjoy exclusive tours of artists’ homes, galleries, and studios; meet the directors of art institutes; view extensive private collections; take an after-hours tour of the Gold Museum; or speak with Jose Roca, a globally recognized curator who introduced Bogota to the international art world.

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