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Bavaria, Germany: An Insider’s Guide to its Hidden Gems
Bavaria is home to Zugspitze, the highest mountain in Germany. Photo: Claudia Schwenger
The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Germany: Claudia Schwenger of Trufflepig.
Claudia Schwenger grew up behind the Iron Curtain, then adopted the motto “Travel is freedom” and left her native Dresden at age 21. Now married to a Canadian and based in Toronto, she returns to Germany (and neighboring countries such as Austria and the Czech Republic) three or four times a year. She specializes in self-guided, self-drive, and train itineraries for independent-minded travelers and will map out for you the most scenic driving, hiking, cycling, train, and ferry routes, and even where to bobsled or ski for a couple of days. She can point you to the best castles to sleep in along the Rhine, hire the latest-model Porsche for your tour of the Bavarian Alps, and manage journeys that continue into Eastern Europe, the Adriatic, or Scandinavia. Use Claudia for trips of at least a week, and note that her pricing (see below her photo, at left) typically includes all hotels (or villa/apartment rental), regional flights or trains, private drivers or rental car, visits and guided excursions, and some meals.
Things to Do and See
Most underrated experience
Many pass by the shores of Lake Constance en route from Bavaria to the Black Forest, yet few bother to stick around for a few days. This is a shame because Lindau and the surrounding area are a natural playground, particularly if you’re into biking and water sports.
Savvy travelers make time for the island of Lindau, on Lake Constance. Photo: Shutterstock
Hidden gem
Hiking the entire length of the Höllentalklamm (Hell Valley Gorge), near the village of Grainau, is an adventurous feat that rewards you with splendid vistas of Alpine peaks—including Germany’s tallest mountain—and an offering of Bavarian bounty for the belly at Höllentalangerhütte Hut.
Cheap thrill
Hop a boat around the fjord-like Königssee, one of the country’s clearest lakes, amid the mountains of Berchtesgaden National Park. Disembark at the final stop, Salet; from there it’s a short walk to the Röthbachfall, Germany’s tallest waterfall. Farther up the path, you will reach the quaint Fischunkelalm Hut, where a mesmerizing Alpine panorama and delicious snacks await.
Most overrated place
In summertime, Neuschwanstein Castle—Mad King Ludwig’s fantastical creation—gets as many as 6,000 visitors a day. Unless you’ve arranged for special access (see “Bragging Rights”), focus your royal exploration efforts elsewhere: The Mad King built a number of castles in the area, and Hohenschwangau (which is just down the road from Neuschwanstein), Linderhof, and Herrenchiemsee are all less crowded alternatives. If royal history appeals, it’s also worth stopping at the Museum of the Bavarian Kings in Schwangau.
Munich’s Englischer Garten is one of the world’s largest urban public parks. Photo: Claudia Schwenger
How to spend a lazy Sunday
Take a stroll or bike ride around Munich’s answer to Central Park—the vast Englischer Garten—where you can hit up a shady biergarten for refreshments, or find a quiet spot to spread out on the grass and read a book.
Feeling the opposite of lazy? Work off (while at the same time working up an appetite for) some of that hearty Bavarian cuisine by getting out and active in the company of a local guide who can show you where the locals play in the countryside. There are plenty of hiking trails and alpine huts to be discovered.
Where to Stay and Eat
Best-value splurge hotel
Schloss Elmau is a wonderful retreat at the foot of the German Alps, near the Austrian border. The grounds are expansive enough that, although it’s a sizable establishment, it never feels crowded. The spa is vast and there are five restaurants to choose from. The value here shows up in all that’s included in your rate, from tickets to on-site classical-music concerts, to yoga and tai chi classes, to a kids’ club. Schloss Elmau makes an excellent base for exploring the attractive towns and impressive castles of the Alps; hiking and skiing are also available nearby. Book any south-facing balconied room with a mountain view.
Restaurants the locals love
At Bamberg’s most beloved beer garden, Spezial Keller, you can enjoy sunset views across the Old Town. They serve only the local Spezial beer—a smoky variety—and traditional beer-garden grub.
1804 Hirschau offers farm-to-table fine dining right in the heart of the Englischer Garten, with many of the herbs, fruits, and vegetables grown on the restaurant’s grounds—and served in the dreamy park setting.
In the quintessential Bavarian town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, you’ll find venison, boar, and other seasonal game at Zum Wildschütz, a local favorite with a homey, rustic vibe.
Hidden in a courtyard around the corner from Munich’s bustling Viktualienmarkt, Zum Alten Markt is lovingly run by a local couple and offers up wonderful Bavarian cuisine with a side of heart and soul. The outdoor patio is a hit when the weather cooperates.
Sample Germany’s many sausage varieties at the Viktualienmarkt in Munich. Photo: Claudia Schwenger
Bar buzz
While you may not associate Munich with rooftop bars, there has been a proliferation in recent years and they are justifiably popular. The family-friendly, hands-on Deutsches Museum has a rooftop bar, Frau im Mond, that boasts views all the way to the Alps on a clear day, and the rooftop patio of the Bavarian Archaeological Collection overlooks the greenery of the nearby Englischer Garten. Run by the same team as Frau im Mond, Solâ is a great spot for a post-museum coffee or tipple. M’Uniqo Rooftop Bar is a trendy place offering impressive 360-degree views across the city and all the way to the mountains from its location atop the Andaz Munich.
Bamberg’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Photo: Claudia Schwenger
Meal worth the splurge
The Alpine town of Mittenwald, amid Karwendel Nature Park, is home to Das Marktrestaurant. With a Michelin star and a down-to-earth feel, this inviting spot is well worth a detour. (There’s also an outstanding violin museum in town.)
Prime picnic spot
Pathways of wooden planks lead across peat bogs and wet meadows near Murnau am Staffelsee, a town at the foothills of the Alps. It’s an area that has long inspired artists; one look at the view, with the mountains in the distance, explains why. The Bohlenweg path has a shelter perfect for a picnic, but there are benches along the other walkways as well.
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Best Times to Go
March through June, September, and October hit the sweet spot of pleasant weather and minimal crowds.
Late November through late December is a colorful time to visit, with charming Christmas markets popping up all over the region.
Worst Times to Go
Early to mid-November, before the Christmas markets brighten the gray and damp days.
In July and August, German school holidays wreak havoc on traffic and availability.
Biggest Rookie Mistake
Focusing only on the well-known cities, such as Munich and Nuremberg. Adding delightful country villages and smaller cities to the mix will give you a richer experience.
Bragging Rights
A truly private guided tour of Neuschwanstein Castle—one of the world’s most famous castles and Germany’s top landmark—without any crowds. Claudia can get you in before it opens to the public; you’ll be on your way out by the time the first tour buses roll up.
Can't-Miss Photo Op
Sunset on top of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest peak.
Don't Forget to Pack
An umbrella or rain jacket, even in the height of summer—and particularly if you’ll be spending time in the mountains.
Tipping Tip
It’s common to tip ten percent in a restaurant, or simply round up the bill if all you’ve had is a beer. Tips are usually left in cash, even If you pay by card.
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