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Angkor Wat, Cambodia: Insider’s Guide to the Temple and Surroundings
Learn how you can spend a day at Angkor Wat with one of Cambodia’s top archaeologists. Photo: Shutterstock
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Where to Stay and Eat
Best bang-for-your-buck hotel
The Jaya House River Park Hotel, set just up the river from the Royal Gardens, is a fabulous little hidden gem. With just 36 rooms, the service is top-class and the property punches well above its weight. The “secret sauce”? It’s run by a longtime Dutch expat who’s one of Cambodia’s best hoteliers and is universally loved by his local staff. Plus, the hotel is environmentally sensitive and free of single-use plastics. There’s also a wonderful rooftop bar overlooking the river, and a sidewalk and bike lane down the river to the center of town.
Restaurant the locals love
You will not be disappointed if you dine at Ptes Kbeung (literally, Terracotta Tile House). It’s hard to find, tucked down a small alley near Wat Kesararam—Google Maps will be your friend—but worth it. You will find it absolutely packed with locals every night of the week, all there because the food is excellent. The specialty is marinated beef, cooked yourself on a terracotta tile grill over charcoal, but honestly, every item on the menu is unique and flavorful. The convivial atmosphere is great and you’ll rub shoulders with normal, middle-class Cambodians.
Meals worth the splurge
Embassy, set in a beautiful new modernist pavilion in the center of town. Chef Kimsan and her all-female team have done an amazing job offering modern takes on traditional Khmer food, embracing the tradition of village cooking. Order the chef’s tasting menu to get a feel for the full range of Cambodian cuisine. Try the red-ant sauce if you want something unique yet accessible.
Alternatively, Cuisine Wat Damnak is the brainchild of French chef Joannès Rivière and serves an exceptionally creative degustation menu with a unique take on traditional Khmer cuisine, all with the finest locally sourced ingredients. The restaurant is the only Cambodian establishment to be featured on the prestigious Asia’s 50 Best list. Plus, it’s the lowest-cost fine dining you may ever experience: Prices start at just $40 for a full tasting menu.
Amok is widely considered to be the national dish of Cambodia. Photo: Shutterstock
Dishes to try
Amok, a delicate steamed fish curry flavored with lemongrass, kaffir lime, palm sugar, and fresh galangal, is considered the national dish of Cambodia, so you really must try it at least once. It’s a celebratory dish and not often consumed at home, but it’s still authentically Cambodian—and absolutely delicious when done right.
For the best local homemade ice cream, go to the Glasshouse, a small café appended to the Park Hyatt in the center of town. Their ice cream is made onsite with local ingredients and traditional flavors. The passion fruit is exquisite, as is the palm sugar.
Prime picnic spot
Grab a packed breakfast or lunch from your hotel and head out in a tuk tuk to Baksei Chamkrong, near the moat, or on top of the wall of Angkor Thom.
What to See and Do
Don’t miss
The floating villages on the Tonlé Sap lake are absolutely a must. The cultures of those who spend their entire lives on the water are absolutely fascinating, and are a true testament to the human spirit to thrive. All of life takes place on the water: shopping, gardening, cooking, schooling, and more.
There’s a right way—and a wrong way—to explore the Tonlé Sap’s floating villages. Photo: Shutterstock
However, keep in mind that any standard tour will be exceptionally touristy and kitschy. Avoid the main village of Chong Khneas; find a guide to take you to the more distant Mechrey instead. Or, if you engage a savvy trip planner, you can visit Prek Toal, which is the largest village on the lake and accessible by fast boat—and rarely visited by tourists.
Don’t bother
Sunset at Phnom Bakheng; it’s in all the guidebooks, and still features in far too many itineraries found online. The temple is overrun with tourists each evening, all clamoring for a better view. The trek to the top of the hill is hot and dusty, and you may find yourself waiting in line because of visitor limits.
Instead, take a sunset cruise on a Kong Kea boat on the moat of the old city of Angkor Thom; it’s the ultimate way to wind down at sunset after a long day exploring. Most of the time you can just show up at the South Gate pier and hire a boat. For a completely untouristed experience, ask us to put you in touch with a trip planner who knows a hidden lake to the north, and who will ensure there are some local beers and a good cocktail onboard to top the evening off.
Cheap thrill
Cycling is a great way to slow down and absorb a new location. Many hotels have bikes available for free; higher-quality mountain bikes can be arranged for as little as $10 per day. If you spend a day riding through the temples (there’s an excellent trail along the top of the wall around Angkor Thom!), you can avoid the crowds and see a lot of beautiful, high-canopy jungle. There are miles of bike trails in the Angkor Park: Use Google Maps to avoid getting lost.
Explore the ruins of Angkor Thom on two wheels. Photo: Shutterstock
Evening buzz
The Scribe Bar at the FCC (originally the Foreign Correspondents Club) on the river offers a great atmosphere for a pre-dinner cocktail. The restaurant is set in the old French Governor’s residence and so is architecturally quite beautiful. The food is average, but you can’t beat the history and ambiance.
To meet local expats, drop by the Miss Wong Cocktail Bar. Set in a narrow shop house, the bar emits old Shanghai-noir vibes and the drinks are high quality.
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Best Times to Go
November through February is peak season: The humidity is lower, the chance of rain is near zero, and the temps are favorable. However, prices (and crowds) are higher.
Consider bucking the trend and visiting in summer (June-early August), at the beginning of the monsoons. Expect rain—typically a quick, sharp afternoon shower each day—but the countryside is green, the crowds thin, and fine hotels are incredibly cheap. Plus, the rain brings interest, memories, and atmosphere. You’ll never forget that time you sheltered in an ancient temple and waited for a shower to pass!
Worst Time to Go
April is simply too hot. Avoid.
Biggest Rookie Mistake
Sleeping in, lingering over a hotel breakfast, and missing the prime hours of exploration. The Cambodian people rise early to beat the heat and enjoy the morning hours, so you should too! Head out at sunrise to explore, and then by midday, when the temps rise and the tourist crowds clamor, go back to your hotel to enjoy the pool, a nap, and a decent lunch. Later in the afternoon, head out again as the shadows lengthen for more exploration.
The Inside Scoop
Often travelers wish to visit a school or orphanage, to volunteer or make a donation. Their intentions are good, but such visits are disruptive, and studies show they are bad for children and can open them up to abuse and exploitation. Less reputable establishments are subtly even using children for fundraising purposes.
Rather than run this risk, you might donate to the Angkor Hospital for Children (they have an excellent visitor center) or to the amazing work at ThinkChildSafe.org.
Must-Have App
Grab Taxi (the Southeast Asian version of Uber) is the best way to get a tuk tuk around town—you can input your destination to avoid communication issues, and you don’t have to haggle over pricing!
Airport Intel
The new Siem Reap Airport is simple, fairly well-run, and not crowded, so the arrival process usually runs smoothly. However, make sure you fill in the digital arrival card three days prior—otherwise you will be waiting in line for buggy iPads to do it on arrival.
Tipping Tip
Americans have a reputation for tipping well, so there will be a certain expectation, like it or not. We suggest erring on the side of generosity—a couple of extra dollars goes a long way.
Don’t Forget to Pack
A shawl or a large scarf. While you can get a scarf easily in the market, finding one large enough to act as a shawl is harder. With a shawl you can easily cover your shoulders as needed at temples, but keep it in your day bag without adding a lot of extra weight.
The Souvenirs
For artwork, head to Theam’s Gallery, a quirky atelier on the edge of town. They have small, packable items that are beautiful and unique.
Silk or cotton scarves have a long, rich history in Cambodia and are integral in the local culture. Some of the patterns and colors are breathtaking. Plus, they pack and transport well.
Bragging Rights
Spend a day at Angkor Wat with one of Cambodia’s top archaeologists. He can help you understand what life would have been like for the average Angkorian, and perhaps even take you to sites or areas that are not on official maps (intentionally left off, in fact, to prevent looting). For ultimate bragging rights, charter a helicopter so he can show you around a truly hidden jungle temple.
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