The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Greece: Christos Stergiou of TrueGreece.
Christos grew up in Athens and on the island of Patmos, where he helped his family run Petra Hotel & Suites. After a decade in the United States earning an MBA from Stanford Business School and working at a Boston consulting firm, he returned home to found TrueGreece, a boutique travel company catering to those independent, luxury-loving travelers who want to see the country’s highlights and hidden treasures with minimal hassle and through the lens of a real insider. Besides booking chic island hotels, Christos can arrange weeklong sailing trips and villa rentals. He receives rave reviews for his guides, especially the ones who will accompany you to the ruins in Athens, Delphi, and beyond and breathe life into all those ancient stones. And then there’s the round-the-clock staff at TrueGreece to act as your personal concierge and help smooth any last-minute wrinkles (those notoriously unreliable ferries, for one). Christos was also included in Perrin’s People, Wendy’s award-winning list of top travel specialists, which was published annually in Condé Nast Traveler magazine from 2000 to 2013.
Where to Stay and Eat
Best bang-for-your-buck hotel
At the New Hotel, the service is excellent, the design interestingly modern, and the vibe fresh and hip. Plus the 79-room hotel is well located: It’s across from the National Gardens, and a 15-minute walk from the Acropolis. If you can swing it, book the penthouse for its 180-degree Acropolis views. We can get you a specially discounted rate and the best room in your category—and often, a complimentary upgrade.
Restaurant the locals love
Anthos Gefseon (Ανθός Γεύσεων) is a small neighborhood restaurant in a residential area untrafficked by tourists (it’s a ten-minute cab ride from the Acropolis). The menu changes depending on what ingredients are in season and available, but the traditional dishes are very good—as is the herby buffalo burger.
Meal worth the splurge
Don’t be fooled by the name: Funky Gourmet is housed in an elegant neoclassic building, where the walls display original artwork by prominent Greek artist Stefanos Rokos, and the kitchen prepares degustation menus that have earned it two Michelin stars. But, as you might expect, the food is fun and playful: Courses like Greek salad sorbets and foie gras truffles are made with Athens-area ingredients and paired with excellent Greek wines.
In my mind, souvlaki is the definition of yummy. No visitor should go home without trying the Greek kebabs. For the best souvlaki in Athens visit Kostas, located in Plaka since 1950.
What to See and Do
Kifissia. Tourists rarely visit this northern suburb, but it’s nice to escape busy downtown for the residential area with elegant, tree-lined streets. Do some shopping and have lunch or coffee at Nice n Easy, an organic bistro, or Il Salumaio Di Atene, a neighborhood Italian restaurant. Families will have fun at the small Goulandris Natural History Museum, which has a great outdoor café.
Monastiraki. This area in the center of Athens is a guidebook mainstay because of its flea market, but there are much nicer neighborhoods nearby: Plaka and Anafiotika (below the Acropolis rock) are charmingly historic, and Thisseio, Kerameikos, and Gazi reflect Athens’ newer, cooler side.
The Numismatic Museum. This city-center museum has around 500,000 pieces in its collection, with the oldest dating to the fourteenth century B.C. It’s in a beautifully maintained nineteenth-century home where the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann lived; he’s known for excavating the nearby ancient city of Mycenae, a world capital from the fifteenth to the twelfth century B.C.
Take an easy hike through the trees of Lycabettus Hill to see the city from 900-foot heights. The view of the Acropolis and Parthenon is particularly stunning at night.
Tour the Acropolis Museum after hours. The museum can be mobbed during the day, but it’s entirely different after hours, when we can arrange for you and a guide to have the whole place to yourselves. The views of the ruins from the third-floor Parthenon Gallery are always exceptional, but they’re especially dramatic when the Acropolis is spot-lit after dark—and when you have the space and quiet to appreciate them.
A gallery tour with a contemporary-art specialist. An expert guide will begin your Greek art education by walking you through nineteenth- and twentieth-century Greek artworks in the National Gallery. After that, you’ll take in rotating exhibitions of work by contemporary Greek artists and sculptors in the Byzantine & Christian Museum. Once you’ve seen the Zoumboulakis, Ekfrasi and Nees Morfes galleries—which promoted Greek modernism in the first half of the twentieth century—you’ll get a look at art by emerging Greek talents in the Kalfayan and Elika galleries. The last stop before lunch is the Benaki Museum, the former home of modern master painter Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, which now houses a collection of the artist’s work. After lunch, you’ll see more contemporary art at galleries in neighboring districts in Athens’ historical center.
The National Garden, next to the Parliament building off the city’s main square, is a 38-acre beauty, with tree-shaded walkways, some ancient ruins, a duck pond, and a small café.
How to spend a Sunday
Start in the city and spend some time by the sea. Begin by strolling through Plaka, Athens’ oldest neighborhood, which is quiet enough to make you forget you’re in a 780,000-person city. Then catch a 25-minute cab south to the Aegean-front “Athenian Riviera.” Pause in the town of Glyfada, where all of Mexta Street’s many cafés are good for coffee and people-watching, and have a late lunch at Delfinia, a seaside restaurant in Glyfada known for fresh grilled fish. Head back to your hotel for a rest, and then take a walk around the Kolonaki district’s upmarket stores. For dinner, try Oikeio or Kafeneio, both located in Kolonaki.
Honestly, anytime but August. Athens is sunny for more than 300 days a year, so even if you arrive in winter it’ll likely be bright and temperate (with lows in the 40s in January). Even if you’re not brave enough for a swim in the brisk sea come December, places like Glyfada and Voyliagmeni, on the Athenian Riviera, stay lively year round and offer a wide choice of café and dining options.
August. All the Athenians are on vacation, which means lighter traffic and better hotel rates—but also lots of closed shops, bars, and restaurants. Around August 15, a major holiday in Greece, the city is so empty it’s almost disturbing.
Planning to only see the Parthenon and Acropolis. They’re obviously Athens icons, but there are tons of other neighborhoods to explore. For ideas, see “Don’t miss,” “Don’t bother,” and “How to spend a Sunday.”
Most tourists gather on the hour to catch the changing of the Evzones—the presidential guards that guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Athens’ central square—but the better photo is of the soldiers when they’re actually on guard, in their traditional skirted uniforms with the Parliament building in the background.
Watch for overcharging in cabs. Athenian cabs are relatively inexpensive: Rides within the city center cost no more than a few euros, and crossing the city costs 15 euros, max. Make sure the driver starts the meter when you get in, and never negotiate the rate. The only exception is the ride from the airport to central Athens, which is fixed at 35 euros from 5 a.m. to midnight, and 50 euros from midnight to 5 a.m.
CityMaps 2Go, a good map app that works offline, because not all signs are written in English and the Greek alphabet can make navigating the city confusing.
BingTranslator to translate Greek signage, menus and text. Take a photo of text and the app will translate it, or input phrases manually or by voice. (For text-to-speech translation, you need an Internet connection.)
For starters, tipping is by no means mandatory. Round up to the next full euro in taxis, leave 10 to 15 percent in upscale restaurants and give a euro or two in cafés and tavernas. In hotels, tip five euros to luggage handlers and room service attendants, and ten euros to maids at the end of your stay.
Athens International Airport (ATH) is relatively small, with an hour of free Wi-Fi per phone or computer. If you have time, visit the second floor, where there’s a children’s play area, a table-service restaurant, an area that hosts art and interactive exhibitions, and a small archeological museum filled with artifacts unearthed from the airport’s construction site. Register for the Flight Tracker service and you’ll get flight-status updates by email.
One of the English-language Acropolis coffee table books from the museum’s second-floor shop. There are dozens of photography and history books in the store, but one of my favorites is The Acropolis: Through Its Museum, which the American Journal of Archaeology called “a fabulous overview” of the museum and its artifacts accompanied by “stunning” illustrations and photographs.