Istanbul for Quick Trips: Insider’s Guide

The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Turkey: Karen Fedorko Sefer of Sea Song.

Trusted Travel Expert

Karen Fedorko Sefer

Karen has lived and worked in Istanbul for more than 20 years and has offices across Turkey. Her local connections—from museum directors to star restaurateurs to powerful hoteliers to the country’s culture ministry—enable her to gain all manner of special access. She can introduce you to shop owners who can show you their special wares not displayed to the public, and create one-of-a-kind experiences. When you’ve got limited time—and who doesn’t?—her intimate knowledge of the country helps you make the smartest use of it, and she is on the ground and on-call to answer questions and fulfill special requests. If you need a cruise shore excursion—say, to Ephesus—she’s the ticket; with her guides, you’ll steer clear of the cruise-ship crowds and see the hidden gems they don’t. If you would like to charter a gulet on the Turkish coast, she’s the expert.

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Expect trips orchestrated by Karen to start at $750 per day for two travelers in most of Turkey and $1,200 per day for two on the Aegean Coast.

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Where to Stay and Eat

Start your day with breakfast on the terrace of the Four Seasons Bosphorus.

Best-value splurge hotels
The new Peninsula Istanbul is a game changer in Istanbul and a must-stay. The beautiful outside terrace right on the Bosphorus is a wonderful area to sit and enjoy the view of the historical peninsula and Istanbul’s ferry traffic. Don’t miss dinner at Gallada on the rooftop.

The Four Seasons Bosphorus has a beautiful terrace where you can enjoy your breakfast in the most magnificent setting. Very few guest rooms have a Bosphorus view; if this is important to you, stay in the palace section. The entry-level Superior and Courtyard room categories are also very nice (both in the courtyard) and a very good value.

The Ciragan Palace Kempinski is the grande dame of Istanbul, a very traditional place with a beautiful location on the Bosphorus. All of the rooms have private balconies overlooking the sea, which is a big plus. The service is top-notch, their Tuğra Restaurant is very special (see “Restaurant worth the splurge,” below), and the infinity pool is spectacular.

The St. Regis is located in Nisantisi, a very upscale residential area. The beautiful rooftop terrace is home to the hotel’s Spago restaurant, which has excellent cuisine and incredible views of the city. The spa is wonderful too.

Restaurants the locals love
Hamdi Restaurant specializes in kebabs and is located in the old city with views of the Golden Horn and Bosphorus. Sit on the rooftop terrace, where you have the best sea views. Order the spicy adana kebap and an ayran, a local drink made with yogurt that is ideal for toning down the heat.

In the trendy Karakoy neighborhood, Karakoy Lokantasi is a local eatery in the Galataport waterfront project. The menu changes every day, but be sure to order the manti (ravioli stuffed with meat) if it’s on the menu.

Fish show up on many menus in Istanbul; Karen knows where to order the best versions. Photo: Wendy Perrin

For fresh fish dishes, locals love Bebek Balikçisi, an airy spot right on the banks of the Bosphorus. The sea bass or the fish of the day are always sublime, but be sure to order the kalkan if it’s in season.

If your flight into Istanbul arrives very early in the morning, stop at Namli Gurme for a typical traditional Turkish breakfast of many different cheeses, black olives, honey, simit bread, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, kaymak (clotted cream), and the Turkish version of scrambled eggs, called menemen. You must also have a chai (tea) in a typical Turkish glass.

Restaurant worth the splurge
Tuğra Restaurant, at the Ciragan Palace Kempinski Hotel, serves a wide array of traditional Ottoman dishes in a romantic setting fit for a sultan (jackets required, of course). For unforgettable views of the Bosphorus and an intimate setting, Karen can reserve one of the three tables on the balcony.

Dish to try
You can’t leave Turkey without trying kebabs, and the place that does them best is Adana il Siniri, in the Nisantisi neighborhood. Whether you try saslik kebap (lamb with grilled vegetables), patlican kebap (beef with eggplant), or adana kebap (very spicy minced meat), you can’t go wrong. The waiters are lots of fun and create a friendly environment.

See the city from the water by taking a ferry. Photo: Sea Song

What to See and Do

Don’t miss
The Rustem Pasa Mosque, on a small side street near the Spice Bazaar, features the most beautiful Iznik tiles in the city. It’s very much off the radar and should be near the top of your list.

The Kilic Ali Pasa Hammam is a 16th-century Turkish bath designed by Mimar Sinan, the master architect of the Ottoman Empire. It is the perfect place to partake of this ancient tradition in a stunning historic setting. Check the schedule before going to the hammam, as men and women are allowed to enter at different times; reservations are suggested. (Hurrem Sultan Hammam, in the Old City, is another 16th-century bath also designed by Mimar Sinan; here, men and women can bathe at the same time in different sections.)

The Odunpazari Modern Museum is a beautiful work of art by Japanese architect Kego Kuma, full of modern art pieces and ongoing exhibitions. It’s a two-hour train ride from Istanbul and makes for the perfect day trip. This being the capital of contemporary art in the Middle East, there are many such private museums scattered throughout Istanbul, including the Istanbul Modern, Arter Istanbul, Elgiz Museum, and SantralIstanbul. Make a quick stop at the Naval Museum to view the magnificently restored sultan’s boats that were used to navigate the Bosphorus Sea; every sultan was in competition to have the most extravagant vessels.

Spend an evening with an Ottoman art expert in his private mansion.

Bragging rights
Have dinner in a private four-floor Ottoman mansion once owned by a pasha. After meeting with the current owner (an Ottoman art expert) to admire and learn about his impressive collection of calligraphy, paintings, porcelain, tiles, and carpets, you’ll enjoy a four-course feast in the ornate dining room and see what it felt like to be a ruler during the Ottoman era.

Hidden gems
Hagia Irene, the first church to be built in Constantinople. It’s a beautiful church on the grounds of the Topkapi Palace, the acoustics are perfect, and it is never crowded.

The recently excavated Serifye Cistern is now open to the public, but not many people know about it. It is the most beautiful underground cistern in the city and was found completely intact. Right now there is no entrance fee and no crowds, but that won’t last long.

Sunset drinks on the rooftop bar at Mikla, in the Marmara Pera Hotel.

Cheap thrill
Go for a mojito at the open-air bar of Michelin-starred Mikla Restaurant, on the roof of the Marmara Pera Hotel. At nearly 20 stories high, the bar has the best views of the city, stretching all the way to the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. It’s especially magical after dark, when the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and other monuments are all illuminated in high relief against the night sky. Once you see the food, you may be convinced to stay for dinner, designed by acclaimed chef Mehmet Gurs.

Istanbul’s leafy Bebek neighborhood. Photo: Karen Fedorko Sefer

Downtime
For some great people-watching, stroll through the Bebek neighborhood on the Bosphorus. Stop for lunch at the trendy Bebek Terrace restaurant, enjoy some ice cream at a local shop, and sit in a cafe along the water with a cup of tea.

Prime picnic spot
On a private yacht motoring on the Bosphorus. Karen can arrange for you to rent one (with a captain, of course) to cruise from Europe to Asia, taking in the historic mansions and mosques along the way.

Don’t bother
Going to shopping malls in Istanbul, as they are generally outside the city center, very crowded, and carry merchandise you can buy at home.

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