Jackson Hole and the Grand Tetons, Wyoming: Insider’s Guide

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Where to Stay and Eat

Best bang-for-your-buck hotel
The Hotel Terra has ideal suite configurations for families: a king-size bed in the master bedroom, a queen-size, high-quality Murphy bed in the living room, two bathrooms, a kitchen, a dining area, a balcony, a living room, and a fireplace—and all this is usually less than a single room at the Four Seasons.

Restaurants the locals love
The Snake River Grill offers gourmet western fare amid classy western decor. It’s located on the southeast corner of the town square, upstairs and behind the Jackson Mercantile. The elk chops with parmesan risotto cakes are excellent.

The Blue Lion is in a restored downtown home from the 1930s. The restaurant’s current owner has been there since 1978, and has had the same chef for 25 years; in a mountain town where things are always changing, it says a lot to be in business for this long. The small menu has a French influence; everything from the seafood to the steaks is delicious.

Meal worth the splurge
Couloir. Reservations are absolutely required, and Saturdays (along with other select evenings) are reserved for private parties, but this four-course dining experience at the top of the Bridger Gondola, above 9,000 feet, is well worth the splurge. The restaurant is small, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the valley. For a real treat, plan the evening around the full moon rising! The menu is always changing, and the sommelier does a fantastic job with the wine pairings. Make sure to be on the gondola at least 15 minutes prior to your reservation.

Prime picnic spot
There are many picnic areas with tables in Grand Teton National Park, but these are often crowded. Instead, head to the Signal Mountain public boat launch and walk down the pebble beach to find your spot. Looking out over Jackson Lake, all of the Grand Teton mountain range is in view, but you’ll have the beach mostly to yourself.

What to See and Do

Sleigh ride at the Elk Refuge. Photo Courtesy Caroline Bach Wood.

Don’t miss
The Idaho side of the Tetons. The laid-back town of Driggs is a haven for outdoor recreation; the Grand Targhee Resort has more intermediate ski terrain, with gladed tree runs and the opportunity to ski or snowboard on long powder runs accessible only via Snowcat, with views of the Tetons (there’s also mountain biking in the summer). Linn Canyon Ranch is a great place for a horseback ride and a gourmet meal; you can overnight in cabins or tents.

John D. Rockefeller, Jr., donated 33,000 acres for the creation of Grand Teton National Park; his son Laurance donated the family’s remaining 1,106 acres of private land, called the JY Ranch, to Grand Teton National Park to create the Laurance Rockefeller Preserve. The parking is intentionally limited so that the trails are not crowded and visitors can connect with nature. Jumping Rock on Phelps Lake is a highlight on hot summer days.

Don’t bother
The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar may be the most popular watering hole in town, and, yes, the stools at the bar are saddles, and on some nights the live music is okay—but service is slow and drinks are expensive. If you want to dance alongside the locals, the Stagecoach Bar in Wilson is a better bet.

Cheap thrill
In summer, the Jackson Hole Tram will take you up to an elevation of 10,450 feet, a great place to start day hikes or see the last remnants of snow. In the afternoon, you can also take the free scenic gondola up to 9,095 feet and have appetizers or drinks overlooking the Jackson Hole Valley at the Deck, often with live music.

Best adrenaline rush
Families always come back raving about their rock-climbing outings. It pushes their boundaries (but safely—the guides are extremely well trained), and everyone bonds over the challenge. It’s a great full-day experience, starting with a boat ride across Jenny Lake, then a hike to Hidden Falls; there are all sorts of routes to climb near there, suitable for everyone from complete beginners to advanced climbers.

Jenny Lake in autumn, Grand Teton National Park. Photo courtesy Caroline Bach Wood.

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